LG WASHER won't drain or spin
I opened and cleaned up the terminal in the door interlock, replaced and could hear the drain pump running. Put washer on cycle and washed but won't drain or spin. What next
To perform the Master Reset, carefully unplug the washing machine from the power outlet and leave it unplugged for one minute. After one minute is up, plug the washer cord back into the wall. Next, open and close the door of the washing machine 6 times within 12 seconds to send a “reset” signal to all the components. (This is a common fix that many appliance repair mechanics use – it works on about 50% of all washing machines.) Once the reset has been completed set the washer to do a small load with no clothes in the washer. See if the washer goes through with the cycle as normal. If the washer performs correctly, then it has been reset and is fixed. If not refer to more troubleshooting techniques and causes of problems below.
If that did not solve the problem then it may be the “Lid Switch”. Top loading washing machines that have a faulty lid switch will not turn the agitator and the spin cycle will not start. However on some washing machine models it will still agitate but not spin. To properly check this you must remove the lid switch. (The lid switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame.) The proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the users manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure. Or type in your washing machines model number and company manufacturer into Google and do a check for “Washing Machine Remove Lid Switch Model# Serial#”. Remember to unplug your washer before you begin any testing or repairs. Once the switch is removed keep the wires coming from the washer attached to it so you can test it with a digital multimeter. Press the button on the switch to simulate closing the lid. When you have the lid CLOSED (button pressed in), the switch should have continuity. When the lid is OPEN (button not pressed in), the switch should have no continuity. If the switch does not have continuity when pressed in, the lid switch needs to be replaced. Find your washing machine lid switch. If the lid switch is functioning properly, go to the next step.
The second most common item to go bad in your washer is the “Water Level Control / Pressure Switch”. This is usually always the defective part when your washing machine pumps the water out but will not spin and also when the water overflows on your washer. You can check this yourself by removing the 4 screws that hold the control panel in place. Once removed you will see the Water Level Control Valve. To identify it look for the part with the small plastic tube attached to it. Once identified, pull the plastic hose off the water level switch and blow air into it. If the tube is clogged with soapy residue, then you can try forcing vinegar down the tube and in the switch itself by using a turkey baster as this will dissolve the soapy residue. If the switch is visibly cracked or burned you will need to replace it. To replace this switch, the proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the users manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure.
If you have tried all other recommended solutions, (the hose is clear, and you hear the pump powering on, and the coin trap is clear), check that the pump impeller has not broken free. Pull the impeller out from the pump, and check that the magnetic shaft and impeller do not spin separately. If they are not solid, the motor will spin without delivering torque to the impeller. Testing on a workbench may show the impeller spinning, until the impeller undergoes a load, where it will stall. If you can get a replacement impeller and shaft, that is all you need, else replace the whole drain pump.
The open close repeatedly technique has worked in the past. Seems to trick the default response in the software on the PC Board. However, the pump is likely weak and failing or clogged is the likely situation. The pump can work temporary until it fails again. So expect draining problems again. Just document how often it occurs to let you know when the pump will likely fail big time.
I had the same issue. The pump drain was clogged with a cloth napkin and bobby pins. It is located on the front in the small panel bottom left side. Since mine stopped before spinning the machine was full of water. I used the small drain tube on the left (inside the panel) to slowly let out a lot of the water, then had a pan and lots of towels ready for when I opened the filter on the right side in the panel. As you start to unscrew it out lots more water comes out. Clean thoroughly and replace. Did the trick.
the unplugged open and close door got me back in, remove wet clothes, drain water, and restart, low water, small empty load setting, but will not spin, and growling noise still present. Might be the drum of my front load LG. thank you so much for your info. I will buy the next several vets meals, proudly XO
Hi @ jenni.ball72
Here’s the section in the service manual that deals with the pump for the washer.
Since you have replaced the control board and had more problems you may have to reinstall the original control board as I assume the only problem you had when that was installed was that the washer wouldn’t drain and that there were no other problems.
Also as you have replaced the drain pump as well the problem looks like it is in the harness wiring or connectors between the control board and the pump
I realize that this manual is difficult to view online as you have to always select the number of the page below the document box to go to the next page but to download the file you have to “register” with the website.
Hopefully this is of some help