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LG WASHER won't drain or spin

I opened and cleaned up the terminal in the door interlock, replaced and could hear the drain pump running. Put washer on cycle and washed but won't drain or spin. What next

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My lg show F and just start washing when you switch it on.No water goes into machine.

Mine will agitate, but once it's time to drain and spin it just makes a buzzing sound and timer ticks away.

Hi there. I have and lg wt750 top loader. Doesn't finish cycle. It fills with water and does not drain. Comes up with error OE on display screen. Checked plug for blockages. None. Replaced drainage pump. There is no noise from pump. Still doesn't work. Any suggestions?

Hi. We have LGWT1101CW top loader. Like the person previously, the cycle won't spin and drain the water out. I contacted an LG rep and spent 1 hour to find out that we needed to replace the pump motor so my husband installed a brand new one. Cleared out all hoses too. We ran a test cycle, still does the same thing. It starts the spin cycle and appears to trip out after making a "clunk" and then stops with the water still in the tub.

I am having same issue and pump works fine when tested with alternate power source. The power coming from control board was intermittant when it was supposed to be running the pump. I ordered a new control board today. Found a remanufactured one with 6mo warranty for 65 dollars

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To perform the Master Reset, carefully unplug the washing machine from the power outlet and leave it unplugged for one minute. After one minute is up, plug the washer cord back into the wall. Next, open and close the door of the washing machine 6 times within 12 seconds to send a “reset” signal to all the components. (This is a common fix that many appliance repair mechanics use – it works on about 50% of all washing machines.) Once the reset has been completed set the washer to do a small load with no clothes in the washer. See if the washer goes through with the cycle as normal. If the washer performs correctly, then it has been reset and is fixed. If not refer to more troubleshooting techniques and causes of problems below.

If that did not solve the problem then it may be the “Lid Switch”. Top loading washing machines that have a faulty lid switch will not turn the agitator and the spin cycle will not start. However on some washing machine models it will still agitate but not spin. To properly check this you must remove the lid switch. (The lid switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame.) The proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the users manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure. Or type in your washing machines model number and company manufacturer into Google and do a check for “Washing Machine Remove Lid Switch Model# Serial#”. Remember to unplug your washer before you begin any testing or repairs. Once the switch is removed keep the wires coming from the washer attached to it so you can test it with a digital multimeter. Press the button on the switch to simulate closing the lid. When you have the lid CLOSED (button pressed in), the switch should have continuity. When the lid is OPEN (button not pressed in), the switch should have no continuity. If the switch does not have continuity when pressed in, the lid switch needs to be replaced. Find your washing machine lid switch. If the lid switch is functioning properly, go to the next step.

The second most common item to go bad in your washer is the “Water Level Control / Pressure Switch”. This is usually always the defective part when your washing machine pumps the water out but will not spin and also when the water overflows on your washer. You can check this yourself by removing the 4 screws that hold the control panel in place. Once removed you will see the Water Level Control Valve. To identify it look for the part with the small plastic tube attached to it. Once identified, pull the plastic hose off the water level switch and blow air into it. If the tube is clogged with soapy residue, then you can try forcing vinegar down the tube and in the switch itself by using a turkey baster as this will dissolve the soapy residue. If the switch is visibly cracked or burned you will need to replace it. To replace this switch, the proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the users manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure.

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OMG I cant believe it the unplug and open and close the door 6 times worked! and my wife said yea and it probably said to stand on your head and spin 3x ha.

thank you

Yep worked for me. Thanks!

I think you saved us hundreds of dollars. Thank you!!

Antia Tell you what, I'll call it even if you buy lunch for the next homeless Vietnam veteran you see. He never got a thanks.

The procedure then said to do a rinse and spin cycle. How do you skip the other parts(wash, etc) with the available controls?

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If you have tried all other recommended solutions, (the hose is clear, and you hear the pump powering on, and the coin trap is clear), check that the pump impeller has not broken free. Pull the impeller out from the pump, and check that the magnetic shaft and impeller do not spin separately. If they are not solid, the motor will spin without delivering torque to the impeller. Testing on a workbench may show the impeller spinning, until the impeller undergoes a load, where it will stall. If you can get a replacement impeller and shaft, that is all you need, else replace the whole drain pump.

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The open close repeatedly technique has worked in the past. Seems to trick the default response in the software on the PC Board. However, the pump is likely weak and failing or clogged is the likely situation. The pump can work temporary until it fails again. So expect draining problems again. Just document how often it occurs to let you know when the pump will likely fail big time.

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I have a LG front loader that won't drain. Wife said she heard it buzzing like the drain motor was trying to drain, then it stopped buzzing. She thought she smelled something hot. I took the sump drain pump out and it turns freely and the impeller is solid on the shaft. I measured the coil and it measures 14.8 ohms, seems reasonable to me, the coil windings look like a relatively larger gauge wire, so the pump coil is not burned open... I spun the impeller and it doesn't feel like it is binding at all, the only resistance I feel is magnetic... I blew air through the drain hose and felt some resistance, but then it became easier as if the water shot out into the drain... I was hoping that the pump was shot, it is a cheap part, not I am not certain as to what the problem is.. Any ideas as to what to check?

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Can I check it on the bench by applying an AC voltage?

If the pump measures between 10-20 ohms, it is not burned out. The magnetic resistance is good. If it spins freely, the impeller key to the shaft may have failed. You can bench test it on 110volts. But be careful to secure it in a vice or something so it doesn't jump around, and if trying to resistance test the impeller, use something forgiving to avoid damaging the impeller and motor like a toothpick or straw.

Sounds like it may be something else though. Try testing for power to the pump when it goes into drain cycle. If the ther no power, it may be your control board fried.

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I also have an LG front loader that won't drain. I can hear it buzzing like the drain motor is trying to drain, then I get an "OE" error ("no drain" issue), and it stops without spinning.

So, I removed wet clothes, drained the washer manually and checked the drain filter/trap (it was clear). I then turned on the drain/spin cycle with an empty load and it worked (started spinning).

I put the very wet (soaking) clothes back in, started the drain/spin cycle and I hear the drain motor trying to drain and then get the OE error again and no spinning.

I tried a master reset as described earlier. No joy.

Any suggestions on what to try next. Thank you!

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I've moved this to its own thread: LG front loader won't drain

I called in a professional. He said it was a bad impeller. Cost to fix $311.

Easy replacement on your own for future reference and you can order the part for about $30 with overnight shipping on amazon.

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Hi, My LG washing machine Model LG: WF-S6610TD was recently serviced on 17.07.2018 and it worked properly only once after service. Now I am unable to to select the program from the control panel. It behaves randomly e.g. When I press "Power On", without any other selection, water comes for 4-5secs and stops. Nothing else. Cant select any program.

After 1 day, suddenly it worked properly without any intervention.

The next day again similar problem. Unable to use.

I never had such a problem for last 15yrs.

Can you please help, where could be the problem.

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My LG Fuzzy logic not draining and spinning i open drain pump and clean.manually by pulling the springs to open its ok draining good.but automatically drain not working at all..is it drain pump motor problem.

Try unplugging it for few minutes, then plugging it again and open and close the washer door 6 times with in 12 minutes. It work for me. I was extremely happy

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Hi. I have an LG model WM2501 HVA that won’t spin. I ran the test mode and the machine will tumble in both directions but goes to 0 for spin test. Fill, drain performed fine. No error codes either. I am not getting voltage to the connector at the motor. I have tested door switch and pressure switch and both tested ok. (Resistance checks to LG service manual). I replaced control board but still no voltage. Any suggestions on what to check next?

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My LG WM3997HWA ,WOULD NOT DRAIN, I REPLACED DRAIN PUMP, WATER DISCHARGE HOSE ISSUES IN THE CORRECT POSITION, STILL LEAVES WATER IN DRUM, I DID THE RECOVERED RESET, I UNPLUGGED WASHER FOR ONE MINUTE, OPENED AND CLOSED DOOR SIX TIMES WITHIN TWELVE MINUTES, NOTHING HELPED! HELP!

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From what I’ve read it’s 12 seconds, not minutes. Not sure if this will help but it’s worth a shot.

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