LG WASHER won't drain or spin
I opened and cleaned up the terminal in the door interlock, replaced and could hear the drain pump running. Put washer on cycle and washed but won't drain or spin. What next
To perform the Master Reset, carefully unplug the washing machine from the power outlet and leave it unplugged for one minute. After one minute is up, plug the washer cord back into the wall. Next, open and close the door of the washing machine 6 times within 12 seconds to send a “reset” signal to all the components. (This is a common fix that many appliance repair mechanics use – it works on about 50% of all washing machines.) Once the reset has been completed set the washer to do a small load with no clothes in the washer. See if the washer goes through with the cycle as normal. If the washer performs correctly, then it has been reset and is fixed. If not refer to more troubleshooting techniques and causes of problems below.
If that did not solve the problem then it may be the “Lid Switch”. Top loading washing machines that have a faulty lid switch will not turn the agitator and the spin cycle will not start. However on some washing machine models it will still agitate but not spin. To properly check this you must remove the lid switch. (The lid switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame.) The proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the users manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure. Or type in your washing machines model number and company manufacturer into Google and do a check for “Washing Machine Remove Lid Switch Model# Serial#”. Remember to unplug your washer before you begin any testing or repairs. Once the switch is removed keep the wires coming from the washer attached to it so you can test it with a digital multimeter. Press the button on the switch to simulate closing the lid. When you have the lid CLOSED (button pressed in), the switch should have continuity. When the lid is OPEN (button not pressed in), the switch should have no continuity. If the switch does not have continuity when pressed in, the lid switch needs to be replaced. Find your washing machine lid switch. If the lid switch is functioning properly, go to the next step.
The second most common item to go bad in your washer is the “Water Level Control / Pressure Switch”. This is usually always the defective part when your washing machine pumps the water out but will not spin and also when the water overflows on your washer. You can check this yourself by removing the 4 screws that hold the control panel in place. Once removed you will see the Water Level Control Valve. To identify it look for the part with the small plastic tube attached to it. Once identified, pull the plastic hose off the water level switch and blow air into it. If the tube is clogged with soapy residue, then you can try forcing vinegar down the tube and in the switch itself by using a turkey baster as this will dissolve the soapy residue. If the switch is visibly cracked or burned you will need to replace it. To replace this switch, the proper procedure for removing the switch will vary by different washing machine models so look in the users manual guide that came with your washer for the proper removal procedure.
On ours wash cycle , no problem , was draining slowly, spin cycle that was not happening. I unplugged it and removed the knob on back of washer near drain hose and found a stash of coins and bobby pins!!??
After that the drain cycle improved and the spin cycle started like it should. Lesson well learned we'll check all pants for coins and other items before washing.
If you have tried all other recommended solutions, (the hose is clear, and you hear the pump powering on, and the coin trap is clear), check that the pump impeller has not broken free. Pull the impeller out from the pump, and check that the magnetic shaft and impeller do not spin separately. If they are not solid, the motor will spin without delivering torque to the impeller. Testing on a workbench may show the impeller spinning, until the impeller undergoes a load, where it will stall. If you can get a replacement impeller and shaft, that is all you need, else replace the whole drain pump.
I have a LG front loader that won't drain. Wife said she heard it buzzing like the drain motor was trying to drain, then it stopped buzzing. She thought she smelled something hot. I took the sump drain pump out and it turns freely and the impeller is solid on the shaft. I measured the coil and it measures 14.8 ohms, seems reasonable to me, the coil windings look like a relatively larger gauge wire, so the pump coil is not burned open... I spun the impeller and it doesn't feel like it is binding at all, the only resistance I feel is magnetic... I blew air through the drain hose and felt some resistance, but then it became easier as if the water shot out into the drain... I was hoping that the pump was shot, it is a cheap part, not I am not certain as to what the problem is.. Any ideas as to what to check?
I tried resetting it this way what mine does is it spins for a few seconds moans stops display LE and it's empty?