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A washer series by Maytag with a low rate of customer satisfaction and a high rate of failure.

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The washer has ol on it at the end

the washer comes to the end an it has ol on it but you have to put it on spend to get all the water out

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Does anyone have any recommendationsas to getting the tub out when it's seized to the shaft? Thank you kindly.

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First, OL stands for “Overload”, so in other words, the washer thinks the tub is too hard to move because it’s overloaded and the motor is struggling or the unit is way out of balance causing the washer to struggle. The most common problem is a nut below the inner tub that needs to “float”. Floating is when the tub fills up with water to a certain level the inner basket will rise about 1 inch from the center agitator. What this does is disengage the basket from the motor so that the agitator can rotate independently from the basket. If the basket does not float then when it tries to agitate the whole basket will turn back and forth at the same speed as the agitator and this will cause the OL error code. That is why the unit is spinning after it fills (because the tub is not raising from the water level due to corrosion).

To fix the problem if the basket is not floating you will have to take the washer apart. Below are the steps to follow if you are mechanically able to tackle it:

Expert: Tyler Z. replied 3 years ago.

Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

First, OL stands for “Overload”, so in other words, the washer thinks the tub is too hard to move because it’s overloaded and the motor is struggling or the unit is way out of balance causing the washer to struggle. The most common problem is a nut below the inner tub that needs to “float”. Floating is when the tub fills up with water to a certain level the inner basket will rise about 1 inch from the center agitator. What this does is disengage the basket from the motor so that the agitator can rotate independently from the basket. If the basket does not float then when it tries to agitate the whole basket will turn back and forth at the same speed as the agitator and this will cause the OL error code. That is why the unit is spinning after it fills (because the tub is not raising from the water level due to corrosion).

To fix the problem if the basket is not floating you will have to take the washer apart. Below are the steps to follow if you are mechanically able to tackle it:

1. Unplug the power cord


2. Lift the top of the washer up, to do this there are 2 latches in the seams between the top and

the bottom sections. These latches are about 6 1/2 inches from the right side and left side of the washer. You need to insert a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the paint) and push the latch while lifting the top section.


3. The top will actually fold back leaving the inner tube fully exposed. Support the glass lid so it doesn’t get damaged because it is very heavy and will fall open when you flip the top back.


4. Remove the plastic top of the tub. There is one hose connected at the back and there are several snaps around the outer edge that hold it on. Remove the hose and unsnap the snaps and set it aside.


5. Remove the cap covering the very center of the agitator. It is just snapped in place and can be pried off with a small screwdriver.


6. Remove the center screw under the cap.


7. Remove the agitator, you need to lift it evenly and might have to work your way around by pulling on one of the three fins and then the next and so on. I also had luck using a small pair of needle nose pliers and grabbing a small lip inside the area where the screw was and pulling from there.


8. Remove the 6 Phillips screws in the middle holding the plastic top gear in place. Be very careful you don’t drop one of the screws because it can fall through the slots in the basket and be lost below.


9. Remove the plastic top gear.


10. Pull the plastic lower gear off of the splined shaft. It should pull right off.


11. Now you need to pull the basket up and off of the shaft. This is where you might have problems because the basket might be corroded to the shaft. If you can grab the basket on both sides under the outer lip and pull upward it might pull up. If not, then you will have to figure out a way to get it off.


12. Once the basket is off you will notice there is liquid inside of it. That is factory sealed in there so do not worry about that, it is normal.


13. With the basket is off you will be able to see that the shaft is probably corroded and the inside bearing on the basket is corroded. Clean these both off very good and check to see if the basket can easily go back on the shaft and slide up and down without getting stuck. You may need to sand and file the shaft a little bit to get it totally cleaned up. The inner bearing of the basket is plastic so it is pretty easy to clean with light sanding.


14. Reassemble in the reverse order and your done. Check to make sure the basket can easily float now by pulling up on it from the top inside lips.

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This worked for me! Thank you so much for your answer!

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Thanks for posting this. Just finished the repair and back to washing. Thank You!

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Glad I could help solve your problem ;-)

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The directions were very helpful and easy to understand. Yes, getting the drum out is challenging but it came after a little effort. Not sure I would have figured it out without your directions. Thanks so much. Washer is working great again. Saved myself almost $200, which is what this repair cost me when a tech came out 18 months ago.

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Jerry, thanks for the response and congratulation on your successful repair. Feels good, right? Always nice to hear back ;-)

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Worked perfect for me! Ran smoothly for me till the part when you need to remove the drum. Went to YouTube and found a video on how to do this. You'll need a car tire jack and a piece of 2x4 short enough to fit inside but long enough to catch the inner lip. With the jack underneath the wood resting directly on the center you'll be able free the drum. Here is the video https://youtu.be/m7rfpFhIcX0

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I am an aircraft mechanic so I took my Bravos Quiet 300 down after it started doing the oL thing. Sure enough, after I used a jackscrew to lift the SS basket off the shaft, I found the shaft caked with rust. Now after deciding to use abrasives to remove the rust , what do I do to prevent the rust from returning? I paid about $900 for this washer and want it to last a few more years because it is relatively young. I can see now that it probably is a bad idea to leave clothing in the machine for longer than 10 minutes after a completed wash. Cleaned clothing should be immediately removed and the door left up for the machine to evaporate moisture in the area of the steel shaft. Any advice from the pros like the very helpful gentleman who wrote the detailed answer would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. jimmyw836@gmail.com

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Yes, good advice and one more thing, don't let your washer set for a long period of time between uses. Just gives it time to rust together.

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Thank you Austin Ellerman for the tip and You Tube link about the jack and 2x4.

This shaft is so pitted by corrosion it may never work right again. But I’ve got it this far, might as well clean it up best I can, reassemble, and take it for a spin. Literally.

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My maytag bravos is 9 years old. I get the ol code at end of cycle. I noticed it was not agitating during wash cycle. I had a contractor come out to do your steps but could not get the basket out. I don't know what else to do except buy a new one. Any suggestions?

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taking the drum out and sanding the shaft is the fix..... the car jack and 2x4 to get the drum out is also the best way.... worked amazing....

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3 jaw gear puller under 6 screw plastic piece. With ratchet and cranks right off.

Harbor Freight set of 3 gear pullers 19.00.

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The agitator will not come off, I already removed the bolt and tried many different ways but it seems to be stuck. I have disassembled other components in the past and even have a friend helping me out but we just can’t remove the agitator. Any tips?

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I had the same problem, what you need to do is put a car jack inside the drum, with a 2x4 cut so it fits inside the lip... then it will press down and up and presto!

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Just wanted to say it is STILL working perfectly! This is an easy fix, don't be afraid to do it, use a car jack ... also I used a log not a 2x4, since I did not have one!

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Gera i used hot water and a cable to pull it of

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3 jaw gear puller under 6 screw plastic piece. With ratchet and cranks right off.

Harbor Freight set of 3 gear pullers 19.00.

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I did the procedure today and it seems to have done the trick. I still get the OL code when the washer is in diagnostics mode, but it seems to wash fine now and the agitator works. Before it did not. Wire brush to get the shaft back to being as smooth as possible..Many, many thanks for the tip to get the wash plate to float..best regards

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Yes, I did the same thing. After a month or two, it stuck again and I had to do it all over again. This time I used a belt sander and a file on it along with anything that would remove the rust and corrosion. I also reamed out the hole of the tub from both sides. Here’s what to do. Always leave the door open on the washer after use. If you are not going to use it for a week or so, you can go and lift the basket free and turn it every few days. I also found you can lift it and turn just enough where it will not drop down. It’s not the best situation but at least it will continue working until something else breaks. Best of luck.

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I’ve gotten all the way to where you have to pull the basket up and out. I’m a petite woman and have put my foot on the post sticking up and used all my strength the pull up on the basket. I finally dislodged it. I can lift it about 1/2 an inch and then there is a definite stopping point. What am I missing here? I can’t get the basket to lift all the way up and out.

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See this video. https://youtu.be/m7rfpFhIcX0 He says the 2 by 4 should be 20 inches long.

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If you are still having problems, you can email me at dionerl@hotmail.com and I will talk with you to help solve this problem.

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I hadn’t seen that video and I think I can do that! I need to find my jack and cut a board. I’m on it!

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I did it!!! It never gave way I had to jack it all the way off the spindle but I did it all by myself and am on the second load of laundry. Thank you so much!!!

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Most of the time they are rusted solid to the spindle where you have to get the small jack and 2 by 4 to force it loose. Have you read how to do this? I needed to use a jack and a 23 inch long 2 by 4. It is pretty easy.

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I have to do this every six months. Why did Maytag use such a highly corrosive metal on such a main component?

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tonie sutton 将永远感激不已
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