Why is my G E refrigerator cool but not cold?
Both the refrigerator and freezer are blowing cool air on the coldest setting. The ice maker is still making ice but some food is starting to thaw out. What could be the problem?
Lots of answers, see if you can further diagnose. Feel the common wall and see if it is hot, also feel the outside walls of the freezer and let us know your results.
Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.
If you have a GE French Door refrigerator with bottom freezer that is not cooling, it is likely the evaporator fan that needs to be replaced.
All these answers but no one got it correctly. The problem is usually a defrost timer switch that usually turns on for about 15 minutes in a 24 hour period to defrost the freezer coils from any built up ice that may have formed when in the off /cold mode. If this switch dies then the freezer will warm up either due to excess ice, or just the heat from the defroster depending on the mode it was in when it died. This switch is located usually on the top side of the refrigerator plastic paneling. The cost is minimal for the part which is about $30. The actual location of this timer depends on the make & model number of your unit. Another thing to check is the vent holes (make sure they are clear of obstructions) that go between the fridge and freezer which can be checked with the back panel of the freezer removed.
Mine was the thermostat. Had to call a local appliance tech, couple hundred buks, & runnin like new again!
I have a GE cafe fridge. Freezer was not cold enough and fridge was cool.
The problem; There are two fans in the freezer compartment behind the rear wall, the black fan on the left runs cold air to the freezer box and the fan that’s white in the centre cools the refrigerator. The white fan in the centre was turning very slowly or would not turn on at all until I touched it with my finger to activate it, this fan was the problem.
The fix; In the freezer drawer compartment I had to remove it’s shelving and remove the rear plastic part at the back, there was a small cover in the middle and then the whole rear wall, just a few screws. You sort of have to bend the rear part to get the right side out first. After you pull the right side out a little you have to reach in and unplug the wiring harness from that centre fan after that you can remove the whole panel put it on your countertop remove the screws that will let the fan come off the metal brackets and then you can also pull the white fan off the little shaft from the fan motor and then look at the motor for the part number and with that part number go on Google or Amazon and search it, I got my fan from Amazon for about $100 and install it myself. Also you are laying/sitting down Between pulled out drawer in the freezer while doing this.
I have GE SELECT side by side. model sss25kfmd. Its got frost on inside back of freezer, freezer is colder than fridge side. Fridge side is allowing mold to form on foods. I do not hear humming. Set to coldest temp. Was given to me. Cant afford $99 for someone to come diagnose it plus pay for parts and labor to fix it. PLEASE HELP.
My G.E. refrigerator is double door, lower freezer, clean, purchased 2015, the upper fan stopped working, the barings fused together.. freezer stayed cold and upper refrigerator stayed at 73 degrees until new fan part was replaced… G.E. has no quality any longer only quantity rules in this throw-away society of ours :(
Start by de-icing the fridge and freezer with a hairdryer.
Unblocking the water outlet at the evaporator (in the fridge)
This may have solved your problem.
It may seem stupid, but I've also experienced it before.
There was nothing wrong with the fridge compartment; but food spoiled and the fridge did not reach its temperature.
I found the cause by chance.
The door contact did not work so the inside light remained on.
I raised the door a bit until contact worked again and it was solved.
refrigerator fan is faulty most common problem.
Which evaporator fan did you replace, the one inside the freezer compartment or the one inside the refrigerator compartment?
Here’s a link to a service bulletin for your model refrigerator (amongst a whole lot of other GE models) that describes how to check the error codes for possible refrigerator evaporator fan problems i.e. evaporator fan inside the refrigerator compartment.
(FYI -The link to the service bulletin is a direct link to the .pdf document and not to a webpage)
If you get error codes 106, 107 or 108 displayed in Service Diagnostics then perhaps there may be a problem with the refrigerator evaporator fan, part #716 Fresh food section Diagram and that you have to get the fan kit part # WR49X25197 (supplier example only found by searching using the part number only, there are others that may suit you better)
Hopefully the tech data sheet of the mini manual is still located in your refrigerator as described in the service bulletin so that you can determine what the error code, if any shown, other than those listed above, means. Here’s what is says: NOTE: A complete list of tests and error codes can be found on Technical Data sheet of the Mini-manual located under the hinge cover of the refrigerator.
Hopefully this is of some help.
I have GE side by side Monogram refrigerator and freezer. I replaced the broken bracket that holds the primary fan (condenser fan) which runs normal. The condenser starts and seems to run as expected, as well the evaporator fan runs in the freezer.
The problem is the main refrigerator at level reaches +33 degrees F, and the freezer can reach 0 degrees F, but with a few bottles of vodka and full ice load the temperature creeps up to 16-20 Degrees F, maybe 30 F if fully loaded.
The refrigerator fresh food side is not loaded much so I am not sure with full load if this will move up past 45 to 50 degrees F. The Freezer side frame at the gasket is very hot, IR measurement up to 100 Degrees F at the top and sides and down to 60 Degrees F on bottom. The Fresh food section gasket frame is normal.
Summary - it seems the freezer and refrigerator both cool down at level 7 on control normal is 5, but neither seems to hold temperature once food or liquidate is stored. The Compressor and both fans functional. I wonder if freon is low and main cause of problem as other components seem to operate?