在此拆机指南中的精选工具

简介

The Nintendo GameCube launching 2001 was the second most powerful gaming console of its time, though it didn't feature any other multimedia capabilities.

It was my first stationary gaming device and I still appreciate it, because a lot of good games like Zelda: The WindWaker and the best version of Resident Evil 4 have their homes on this platform.

The unit disassembled in this teardown is a PAL one.

That's it. Enjoy the teardown!

这个拆解是不是维修指南。 要维修你的的Nintendo GameCube,请使用我们的服务手册

Before you can even think of disassembling any Nintendo device you have to face the same problem with every console except NES and Wii: the screws of the enclosure. And the most tricky fact of these screws is their type because this is not a reasonable standard screw.
  • Before you can even think of disassembling any Nintendo device you have to face the same problem with every console except NES and Wii: the screws of the enclosure. And the most tricky fact of these screws is their type because this is not a reasonable standard screw.

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The four screws I'm talking about are a compound of a flat plate with a thicker convex layer with six notches in the brass. This bit is a Nintendo Reduced E Series bit size 8. Found at http://eazypower.com/shop/nintendor-tee-...
  • The four screws I'm talking about are a compound of a flat plate with a thicker convex layer with six notches in the brass.

  • This bit is a Nintendo Reduced E Series bit size 8. Found at http://eazypower.com/shop/nintendor-tee-...

It is called a "gamebit" driver, they are pretty hard to find, if you don't know what they are called.

Chris Green - 回复

Otherwise known as a "Nintendo Opening Tool", it's a bit that goes into any screwdriver. VERY handy to have... I got mine on eBay.

Cyrus - 回复

I couldn't find anything suitable in the internet, so I built one on my own in this way:
  • I couldn't find anything suitable in the internet, so I built one on my own in this way:

  • Using a steel rod of about 8 mm diameter.

  • I tried to mill three teeth with equivalent distance around the boundary of one end of the rod with an angle grinder. After that I drilled a hole perpendicularly in the center of the rod. Taddaah... a working screwdriver!

  • Now let's begin the Teardown.

I read (and have successfully used) this tip:

Take a clear bic pen, and disassemble it. Then melt the end of the barrel with a lighter. Let it cool for about two seconds then press it firmly against the screw. Instant custom-molded gamecube screwdriver. Only problem is the "screwdriver" will strip after one or two screws, but it's enough for at least one. If the screwdriver strips, remelt and go again.

TuxRug - 回复

Clever idea !!! never would

have thought of that

Traiva - 回复

A caveat: make sure you do wait the two seconds before jamming the pen against the screw, or else the plastic will melt together with the plastic of the case.

TuxRug -

Make sure to have a game disc inserted to avoid damaging the lens. Flip the unit upside down and remove the screws sitting in the four holes with your possibly self-made screwdriver. Don't remove the enclosure yet! Turn the device on its stands again, now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily. Turn the device on its stands again, now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily.
  • Make sure to have a game disc inserted to avoid damaging the lens. Flip the unit upside down and remove the screws sitting in the four holes with your possibly self-made screwdriver. Don't remove the enclosure yet!

  • Turn the device on its stands again, now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily.

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Mac RAM 套件
加速你的Mac。充分利用它的内存。
Mac RAM 套件
从Mac中清理出更多内存。
Unsnap the controller port cover and the rearmost I/O-cover by unsnapping the two snaps on the sides of each cover. Don't remove the controller panel yet. Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step). Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step).
  • Unsnap the controller port cover and the rearmost I/O-cover by unsnapping the two snaps on the sides of each cover. Don't remove the controller panel yet.

  • Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step).

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Now start removing the 'normal' Phillips #0 screws. Start by removing the fan assembly. then unscrew the 12 visible screws on the edging of the now not so cube-shaped GameCube.
  • Now start removing the 'normal' Phillips #0 screws.

  • Start by removing the fan assembly.

  • then unscrew the 12 visible screws on the edging of the now not so cube-shaped GameCube.

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Now you can lift the drive assembly up. You maybe have to loosen it a bit with a screwdriver or a heavy duty spudger.
  • Now you can lift the drive assembly up. You maybe have to loosen it a bit with a screwdriver or a heavy duty spudger.

  • The mainboard is now visible.

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Now remove the heatsink. Unscrew the six screws holding it. Now use anything flat and durable to carefully lift up the heatsink by putting it under the aluminium and using it gently as a lever.
  • Now remove the heatsink. Unscrew the six screws holding it.

  • Now use anything flat and durable to carefully lift up the heatsink by putting it under the aluminium and using it gently as a lever.

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If there are thermal pads remainig on the processors and/or ram chips, remove them with a plastic spudger. Now disconnect the controller port panel connector by lifting and jiggling it carefully. It should come off easily.
  • If there are thermal pads remainig on the processors and/or ram chips, remove them with a plastic spudger.

  • Now disconnect the controller port panel connector by lifting and jiggling it carefully. It should come off easily.

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24 MB MoSys 1T-SRAM ATI 'Flipper' GPU, 162 MHz with 3 MB 1T-SRAM embedded within the die
  • 24 MB MoSys 1T-SRAM

  • ATI 'Flipper' GPU, 162 MHz with 3 MB 1T-SRAM embedded within the die

  • IBM 'Gekko' CPU, 486 MHz (PowerPC 750CXe-based core)

  • Connectors (2nd pic):

  • 'Hi Speed Port'

  • 'Serial Port 1'

  • 'Serial Port 2'

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If you lift the mainboard up, you'll see a metal plate, probably for EMI-protection. Remove the two screws holding it and you have access to the internal power supply. If you lift the mainboard up, you'll see a metal plate, probably for EMI-protection. Remove the two screws holding it and you have access to the internal power supply. If you lift the mainboard up, you'll see a metal plate, probably for EMI-protection. Remove the two screws holding it and you have access to the internal power supply.
  • If you lift the mainboard up, you'll see a metal plate, probably for EMI-protection. Remove the two screws holding it and you have access to the internal power supply.

Interestingly enough, the newer version (DOL-101) doesn't have an internal power supply! Just an empty slot.

Tom D - 回复

Thomas J

于2010年01月24日注册

295 信誉积分

撰写一个指南

Great teardown Thomas!

Miroslav Djuric - 回复

Quote from Miroslav Djuric:

Great teardown Thomas!

Thanks!

Thomas J - 回复

WOW! Great work, Nintendo stuff is hard to open!

Mc128k - 回复

Quote from Mc128k:

WOW! Great work, Nintendo stuff is hard to open!

Thank you! Everything beyond Triwing requires creativity.

Thomas J - 回复

Will I need to reapply the thermal paste?

http://i.imgur.com/Q6antAn.jpg

Calvin Hall - 回复

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