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提起吸盘的同时，将一个撬片插入屏幕和机身中间的缝隙。
“Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”
Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.
The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.
Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.
Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.
ian cheong - 回复
This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...
can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?
This guide needs amending urgently.
You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.
This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.
I now need a new screen.
This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:
”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”
The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!
thanks. will take this into account for my repair
Adab Abu -
I too damaged my display because of this absolute nonsense (The German version, which I used, still had this INCORRECT portion in it). I can't believe how long it took iFixit to update this, even though people have been reporting this for years on end. Sadly iFixit still haven't updated a variety of other things that are still at the very least high risk instructions. I just messaged them the other day, but they don't seem to care about or understand the remaining issues that this guide has. At least they updated one of the most severe things, but they just plainly told me 'I'm wrong' about the rest. I liked iFixit it so far, and I've worked on a variety of (difficult) repairs - but this experience was a very huge let down.
A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.
1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.
2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side
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重新加热并放置 iOpener。
If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.
Heat is essential. I used a 3d printer’s heated set at 65 degrees. Chris Storer’s stip above saved me as you really need to let it sit for quite a while to soften the adhesive. Since I was doing a battery change, I heated both sides as the aluminum back is a huge heatsink that really sucks up the heat. Don’t try forcing it; if the suction cup isn’t pulling a gap in the screen, leave it on the heater for additional time.
Love the 3d printer idea, I hadn’t thought of that! I have used a heat gun as well but you have to be very careful to not use too much heat. Also watch for inserting the pick too far, it is really easy to delaminate glass from the display!
russ -
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稍稍扭一下屏幕上侧的两个撬片以分离剩余的胶水。
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从屏幕上侧抬起， 分离屏幕。
"Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "
When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.
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从电池连接器和屏幕排线保护盖上， 拆下4颗 PH 1.2 mm 十字螺丝 。
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拆下排线保护盖
Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?
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用一个平头撬棒将电池连接器移除。
When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.
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拆除屏幕组件。
Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!
Because the 3-piece adhesive strips shown in the Display Adhesive Application Guide link were different from iPad Mini 4 Adhesive Strips (item code IF316-013-1), it wasn't easy to figure out the exact location of the bottom adhesive. It would be helpful to include a separate application guide or an additional picture showing the exact location of each strip) on the guide.
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这个步骤还没有翻译 帮忙翻译一下
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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the display assembly.
The tip about the high-bond tape is great, but high-bond tape is something that should be mentioned at the beginning in the list of supplies we need. Because I have the whole thing taken apart, and now I’m told I need something that I don’t have on hand. So what am I supposed to do, just let everything sit around open, until I get to the store to see if they have some high-bond tape?
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这个步骤还没有翻译 帮忙翻译一下
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Examine your replacement part, and your original display carefully to be sure they match.
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Your replacement screen may be missing the sleep/wake sensor that is necessary for Smart Cover use. If you want to maintain functionality you will need to transfer the component.
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Desolder the six solder pads from the lower left of the display to remove the sensor assembly cable.
This is an important step that’s missed by a lot of people resulting in negative reviews on replacement screens. Screen suppliers never mention this step or people would not buy from them. Save yourself a headache and time and buy a screen-digitizer with the sleep/wake sensor already soldered.
Is there any reason to replace this if you won’t use it? If I don’t move over the old sensor, will it still work? I’ve never soldered something this small and expensive before.
hab es ohne gemacht, da es auch keine lötstellen gibt - seither gibt es gar keine Standyby funktion mehr!
LÖSUNG: in den Systemeinstellungen “anzeige und Helligkeit” Sperren/entsperren deaktivieren.
junk -
Was meinst du damit “weil es keine Lötstellen gibt”? Sind auf deinem neuen Display keine Lötstellen gewesen wo du den Sensor hättest dran löten können?
Funktioniert dein Lösungsweg für dich noch: “anzeige und Helligkeit” Sperren/entsperren deaktivieren“ ?
Ich stehe vor der gleichen Herausforderung und will ungern löten und würde mich über eine Antwort freuen :/
I replace my iPad mini 4 screen-digitizer and did not have to replace this sensor because it did not have one, but the new screen-digitizer came with the sleep/wake sensor in place. Small electronics needs careful and tedious work. Thanks iFixit for the instructions to fix my iPad. I have to mention that I am a technician from the old school.
wogriffith - 回复
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28等其他人完成本指南。
4条评论
Not only is that part in step 39 crucial to Smart-Cover function, but the regular sleep/wake function will not work if this isn’t transferred. Wish the replacements were shipped with this part attached, because soldering those tiny points is near impossible to do! Buyer/repairer beware.
Its better to have reassemble instruction, like where i am going to put the new adhesive?
The iFixIt replacement part did not come with adhesive, so I had to reuse the old adhesive that got pulled and torn during removal of the bad screen.
Also, the iFixIt replacement part does not come with the sleep/wake sensor (Step 39). Following my repair, the iPad is no longer capable of going to sleep (neither by the button on top nor through AssistiveTouch), so we have to resort to waiting for the lock screen timer to turn the screen off whenever we’re done using it. I feel the soldering that is required to maintain this functionality (I would imagine it would need a millimeter-diameter drop of solder on six contacts that are then pressed together with the transplanted part to form the bond without solder spilling onto a neighboring contact) is not within the capability of most casual repairers.
If I were to do this repair again, I would find a part that has fresh adhesive and the sleep/wake sensor already attached.
My kit did come with the adhesive, but it's a little tricky to figure out (and there is an embedded link to the adhesive). Needs some more pictures/pointers about re-installing the home button, ended up with a gap in the adhesive near the home button. Also, tips on how to remove shattered glass? Otherwise, thanks for the tutorial, looks new.
