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Whirlpool Washing Machine Gearcase Hub Replacement

视频指南
本指南转录自 YouTube 视频。

你所需要的

    • Unplug the washing machine before starting.

    • Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges and grime inside the tub.

    • Gather a hammer or mallet, a 1/4-inch hex driver, a Phillips screwdriver, a flat tool for prying, a 7/16-inch socket wrench, needle-nose pliers, and a spanner nut wrench.

    • Keep towels or washcloths nearby to block the tub holes so screws can’t fall into the machine.

    • Spin the wash plate by hand to check for looseness.

    • If the wash plate turns without the drum spinning with it, and it feels loose and floppy, the hub under the plate is likely stripped.

    • Confirm the shift actuator can shift between agitate and spin modes before replacing parts.

    • Some washers may fail out during spin with codes like F7E1 or F0E2 when the drive system can’t move properly, so rule out shifting problems before focusing only on the hub.

    • Use a putty knife or a flathead screwdriver to pry off the pulsator cap from the center of the wash plate.

    • Use a 7/16-inch socket wrench to remove the wash plate bolt by turning it counterclockwise.

    • Hold the wash plate with your free hand if the wash plate or gearcase tries to turn while you loosen the bolt.

    • Lift the wash plate straight up and off the shaft.

    • If the wash plate is stuck, add a washer cleaning mix to the tub, fill with hot water using a manual mode, and let it soak for 30 minutes.

    • Run a manual agitation test with the wash plate bolt removed and the tub mostly filled with water to help work the wash plate loose.

    • Keep hands, hair, and loose clothing away from moving parts during any test mode.

    • Inspect the plastic hub under the wash plate.

    • Use needle-nose pliers to pull out the U-pin that locks the hub in place.

    • Stuff towels or washcloths into the tub holes around the hub to catch dropped screws.

    • Use a 1/4-inch hex driver to remove the six long screws securing the hub to the tub.

    • Look carefully for the screw hidden under the area where the U-pin was installed.

    • Pull the hub straight up and out after all screws are removed.

    • Use channel-lock pliers for extra grip, or pry carefully from underneath with a screwdriver if the hub is stuck.

    • Remove the towels from the tub once the hub is out.

    • Inspect the gearcase splines for damage where the hub rides.

    • Clean the splines using a rotary tool, a wire brush, or a drill with a wire pad to remove buildup and improve the fit.

    • Don’t gouge the splines, and keep debris out of the tub and drain openings as much as possible.

    • Line up the metal drive block with the gearcase splines and press it down onto the shaft.

    • Verify the top teeth of the drive block sit flush against the gearcase block.

    • Use a large socket and a plastic hammer or mallet to gently tap the drive block down if it won’t fully seat by hand.

    • Set the metal hub onto the tub and align it with the screw holes in the tub.

    • Lift up on the tub while positioning the hub so the screws thread in cleanly without stripping the tub.

    • Don’t use the screws to pull the tub upward, and only use them to secure the hub to the tub.

    • Cover the tub holes with towels again before starting the screws.

    • Start the first screw with a Phillips screwdriver and leave it loose so you can reposition the hub if needed.

    • Start a second screw directly opposite the first, then start the remaining four screws.

    • Tighten all six screws until secure, but don’t overtighten them or strip the tub.

    • Apply a medium-strength threadlocker to the tub nut threads before installation.

    • Allow about 24 hours for threadlocker to cure at normal temperature, or speed curing with higher temperature using a heat gun.

    • Thread the tub nut on, then use the spanner nut wrench to tighten it as hard as you can by hand.

    • Strike the spanner nut wrench with a mallet to tighten the nut about three quarters of a full turn more.

    • Don’t go much farther than that or you can overtighten and strip the nut.

    • Drop the wash plate back into place once its splines are lined up with the gearcase splines.

    • Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the wash plate bolt.

    • Drip the threadlocker vertically onto the bolt to avoid making a mess.

    • Use the socket wrench to tighten the wash plate bolt, then press the pulsator cap back into place.

    • Let the threadlocker cure before putting the washer back into normal service.

    • Unplug the washer for 30 seconds, then plug it back in.

    • Rotate the dial 360 degrees to the 12 o’clock position.

    • Turn the dial right three clicks, left one click, and right one click, using about half a second between clicks.

    • Turn the dial to the right four clicks to select recalibration, then press the Start button.

结论

Run a quick cycle to confirm the washer agitates and spins normally, and recheck for looseness between the wash plate and drum. If the washer still won’t shift between agitation and spin, or keeps failing out with the same symptoms, troubleshoot the shift actuator and the condition of the gearcase splines before replacing additional parts.

Ben Schlichter

于01/21/25注册

2,940 声望

创作了194篇指南

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