跳转到主内容

修复你的物品

维修的权力

商店

简介

使用这份指南更换触控板。

  1. 拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝
    • 拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝

    • 两个 2.3毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 八个 3.0毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 回复

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - 回复

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 回复

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - 回复

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - 回复

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 回复

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - 回复

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - 回复

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - 回复

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - 回复

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 回复

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 回复

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 回复

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 回复

  2. 把你的手指放在上下壳体中间
    • 把你的手指放在上下壳体中间

    • 轻轻地把上下壳体拉开

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 回复

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 回复

    Easy snapped off for me

    Jackie Malling - 回复

  3. 上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。
    • 上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连

    • 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - 回复

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - 回复

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 回复

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - 回复

  4. 如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。
    • 如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - 回复

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

    Wajde Fadool - 回复

  5. 用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。
    • 用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。

    • 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 回复

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - 回复

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 回复

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - 回复

    This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad

    Jeffrey Liu -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 回复

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.

    Leo Toupin -

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - 回复

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - 回复

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - 回复

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 回复

  6. 在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。
    • 在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 回复

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 回复

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - 回复

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - 回复

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

  7. 移除将I/O板线缆末端与逻辑板相固定的 两颗2.1 mm T5 Torx 螺丝。
    • 移除将I/O板线缆末端与逻辑板相固定的 两颗2.1 mm T5 Torx 螺丝。

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - 回复

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - 回复

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - 回复

  8. 使用镊子抓住I/O线缆托架将其从Mac Book中移除。
    • 使用镊子抓住I/O线缆托架将其从Mac Book中移除。

  9. 使用撬棒扁平的一段来将I/O板的连接器与逻辑板上的插座分离。 小心,只能在I/O板线缆上撬起,而不是从逻辑板上的插座撬起,这样做可能会损坏逻辑板。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一段来将I/O板的连接器与逻辑板上的插座分离。

    • 小心,只能在I/O板线缆上撬起,而不是从逻辑板上的插座撬起,这样做可能会损坏逻辑板。

  10. 将I/O板线缆提起,将其弯折到一边。 为了避免损伤线缆,只能在I/O板线缆弯曲处弯折
    • 将I/O板线缆提起,将其弯折到一边。

    • 为了避免损伤线缆,只能在I/O板线缆弯曲处弯折

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - 回复

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - 回复

  11. 小心在右侧扬声器连接线缆下放置撬棒的尖端,来将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。 小心在右侧扬声器连接线缆下放置撬棒的尖端,来将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。
    • 小心在右侧扬声器连接线缆下放置撬棒的尖端,来将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - 回复

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - 回复

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - 回复

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - 回复

  12. 小心地将右侧扬声器线缆从外壳上剥离。 小心地将右侧扬声器线缆从外壳上剥离。 小心地将右侧扬声器线缆从外壳上剥离。
    • 小心地将右侧扬声器线缆从外壳上剥离。

  13. 移除将右扬声器与顶壳固定的螺丝。
    • 移除将右扬声器与顶壳固定的螺丝。

    • 一颗 5.7 mm T5 Torx 螺丝

    • 一颗6.5 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一颗3.8 mm T5 Torx 螺丝

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

  14. 从线缆的末端提起右侧扬声器,使之与机壳分离。 从线缆的末端提起右侧扬声器,使之与机壳分离。 从线缆的末端提起右侧扬声器,使之与机壳分离。
    • 从线缆的末端提起右侧扬声器,使之与机壳分离。

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - 回复

  15. 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。 将iOpener放在微波炉中央 。
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 将iOpener放在微波炉中央 。

    • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果转盘卡住了,iOpener可能会过热并燃烧

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - 回复

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - 回复

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 回复

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 回复

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - 回复

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 回复

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 回复

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 回复

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 回复

    I’ve tried for 2 days and cannot get this to work. I should have just taken it to my local iphone fixit shop. This is a frustrating purchase to say the least.

    jeffrey hill - 回复

    Step 1 should be: now that you have looked over the tools of this repair kit, take your ipad to the nearest repair store and let them handle it. Sure you will waste about $65 by purchasing this kit and the cost of the repair but you will not tear your ipad up and you will have at least 2 days of your life that you can spend time with your family.

    jeffrey hill - 回复

    Just replaced the battery in my iPad mini LTE. Followed the Ifix step by step instructions and they worked very well. The only thing i would change is step 42. You do not have to lift the LCD connector from the logic board. So don’t. It’s an unnecessary step. Other then that all was good. It took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish but I took my time and I recommend you take your time also. Very exciting too finish doing it and see it come to life afterwards. Tested everything and everything still works

    Anybody want to buy my iFix battery replacement tool kit only used once cheap?

    kaplang - 回复

    i opener sucks! it’s incapable of heating factory glue enough to take a sealed phone apart and caused my backglass to shatter. i removed it the rest of the way with a soldering iron!

    Elijah Marvin - 回复

    You should, at least, mention which wattage is used for the 30 seconds heating - 750 isn’t enough, obviously. Display shatterered . Thanks.

    dr_baeschtlr - 回复

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

    At what power (how many watts) does the 30 seconds apply?

    Jarl Friis - 回复

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 回复

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 回复

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 回复

  16. 加热iOpener三十秒
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 在整个维修过程中,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果iOpener过热膨胀,千万不要触碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再使用,加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 回复

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 回复

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 回复

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 回复

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 回复

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 回复

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 回复

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 回复

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 回复

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 回复

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 回复

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 回复

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

    The iOpener is, well, sort of silly. I used it for a while by immersing it in a pot of water regulated at 180 F, which worked, but I ultimately found it far faster to use a hair dryer. I do have an inexpensive IR thermometer which seemed to indicate that the adhesive softened sufficiently when the outer surface of the ipad display edge registered about 140 F. That said, the reflectivity of the outer surface is probably not suitable for reliable temperature indications with an IR thermometer. Just be patient. If you don’t have an IR thermometer, just heat the surface until it is almost too hot to the touch.

    Also note the instructions are VERY different for the WI-FI vs. the Cellular version when attempting to release the adhesive along the bottom (home-button) edge. In one case (on left side) you are to cut towards the center, in the other case you are to cut away from the center. I ended up cutting the right-side cellular antenna cable because I didn’t pay close enough attention here.

    Leon - 回复

    Delete the second paragraph above. I had confused the top and bottom of the ipad. Do pay attention to the direction in which you slide the pick. It MUST be toward edge from camera, not home button. Sorry.

    Leon - 回复

    Great. So apparently i !#^&@@ away $20 on the stupid opener. I might just have to make it explode in slow motion to get my money’s worth

    Val - 回复

  17. 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个以避免碰到中心热的部分。
    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个以避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 回复

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 回复

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    microwave on WHAT WATTAGE ??? 100 W OR 1600 W ??? NOT THE SAME

    Ivor Pocrnja - 回复

    This was not easy. I finally got a pick under the glass of my moto x4 phone after placing my phone on my kitchen hot plate and letting the hot plate go up to about 160F—measuring with a candy thermometer. I was scared of it(either the phone or the iopener) getting too hot—I checked in with another online video and saw they used a 100C heat gun for 2 min on the left side: When I figured that was 212F I got braver with heating the phone.—My screen and display were already broken. I can’t say exactly how long the phone was on the hot plate at 150-160 because the hotplate annoyingly goes on and off not sustaining a stable temperatureprobably a few

    Nahariyah Mosenkis - 回复

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 回复

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 回复

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 回复

  18. 拆下用于固定电池的上部五个3.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝。
    • 拆下用于固定电池的上部五个3.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝。

    • 有些型号的macbook pro并没有螺丝,是一种塑料的圆球,不过没关系,在下面基本我们会把黑色框架一起拿下来与电池一起扔掉,拧下来一个螺丝就好了

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - 回复

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - 回复

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - 回复

    What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

    dfreeman110 -

    I wish to ask the same question.

    vbivanov -

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - 回复

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - 回复

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - 回复

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - 回复

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - 回复

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - 回复

    My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary

    hamiltont -

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - 回复

    3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?

    Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.

    Chris Shine - 回复

    My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    I echo the others who found that there was only one screw (on the upper right). The remainder were rubber-like “feet”. I removed them, but they don’t seem to fasten anything, so this wasn’t necessary. As Ralph pointed out, the ifixit replacement battery comes with new “feet” installed.

    ellamama - 回复

    Mine only had the far right screw. Since the new battery came with another batch of ridiculous adhesive I didn’t bother fretting about not having the rest of the screws

    Tony Le - 回复

  19. 在 iFixit 电池更换套装中的液体除胶剂会影响MacBook Pro 屏幕的放反射涂层。
    • 在 iFixit 电池更换套装中的液体除胶剂会影响MacBook Pro 屏幕的放反射涂层。

    • 为了保护你的屏幕,请操作时在屏幕和键盘间放置一张铝箔。

    This would be a good 1st step before you even start? easier then?

    martha - 回复

    I didn’t use adhesive remover or heat to remove my battery. An old credit card wiggled around under the battery with a little force, but nothing more than anyone can do, was enough to cut thru the adhesive of each section in about 1 or 2 minutes of wiggling under each section. It’s easier to start at the corner of each battery section where the adhesive comes to a point since it follows the edge of the original battery.

    Jim Turney - 回复

  20. 如果您有一个带有液体去胶剂的iFixit电池组合,那么是时候准备好了 或者,如果您使用热iOpener方法,可以跳过以下三个步骤。
    • 如果您有一个带有液体去胶剂的iFixit电池组合,那么是时候准备好了

    • 或者,如果您使用热iOpener方法,可以跳过以下三个步骤。

    • iFixit脱胶剂含有丙酮,可以刺激皮肤和眼睛。

    • 处理和涂抹去除剂时,请戴上防护眼镜。 (您的套件中包含防护眼镜)

    • 不要戴隐形眼镜保护眼睛。

  21. 拔出粘合剂清除剂的黑色橡胶塞。 在剪开口之前,扭一扭或者旋出瓶盖。 这样打开瓶身,使瓶内外气压一致。如果你跳过这一步,在剪开口的时候,粘合剂清除剂可能会意外迸出
    • 拔出粘合剂清除剂的黑色橡胶塞。

    • 在剪开口之前,扭一扭或者旋出瓶盖。

    • 这样打开瓶身,使瓶内外气压一致。如果你跳过这一步,在剪开口的时候,粘合剂清除剂可能会意外迸出

    • 用剪刀剪出一个开口

    • 剪在靠近末尾尖端处来让流量变小,从而更好控制清除剂的施用。

    • 在下一步之前,请扭一扭或者拧紧瓶盖。

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - 回复

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.

    JVerdonck - 回复

    Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

  22. 在最右边的电池单元的边缘均匀涂抹数滴去除剂。
    • 在最右边的电池单元的边缘均匀涂抹数滴去除剂。

    • 你不必用太多去除剂。瓶内的去除剂含量是移除所有电池所需用量的2倍以上。

    • 等2-3分钟过后,胶水去除剂渗入到电池单元下方,再进行下一步骤。

    • 按需要增加去除剂用量,但一次不要涂抹多于几滴的去除剂。使用过多的去除剂可能会使其渗透到键盘背面,可能会损害键盘。

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - 回复

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:

    - one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this

    - string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery

    - I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically

    I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place

    hamiltont -

    Thanks for the awesome suggestion!

    Tony Le -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - 回复

    I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.

    Gerd - 回复

    +1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.

    JX Low -

    Just finished a fix using floss to remove the battery. It works really well.

    pedroparracho -

    Because I preferred to avoid using the flammable adhesive remover, I tried using the dental floss method. I assumed I could always revert to adhesive remover if the floss didn’t work. The dental floss method worked beautifully. I used a slow, methodical “sawing” motion with the floss, rather than brute force. Although it took some strength, it worked well, and I didn’t need to use the remover.

    Rather than using the plastic cards (though I think they would have worked fine), I used a plastic putty knife (standard, available in any hardware or paint store); this gave me a sturdy handle with which to grip and maneuver the blade. This, too, worked well.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    I used the threading technique as well. I had a spool of pretty tough sewing thread. But it kept breaking, so I tripled it up. Still kept breaking but eventually got through it.

    For the 2 middle cells I had to thread the thread behind the plastic frame thing and both cells, but passed the thread in between the side of the frame and the cell. This was really tough and I broke the thread a few times.

    After I was finished I just cleaned everything up with acetone (aka. the adhesive remove/nail polish).

    Tony Le - 回复

  23. 如果没有胶水去除剂,用热的iOpener来加热和软化将电池固定到上壳上的一部分粘合剂,然后再仔细撬动。 使用热的iOpener来覆盖最右边两个电池的一半。
    • 如果没有胶水去除剂,用热的iOpener来加热和软化将电池固定到上壳上的一部分粘合剂,然后再仔细撬动。

    • 使用热的iOpener来覆盖最右边两个电池的一半。

    • 大约一分钟后,重新加热iOpener并使其覆盖最右侧电池的另一半。

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - 回复

    I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

    Jennifer Myer - 回复

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - 回复

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - 回复

  24. 在最右侧的电池和上盖之间插进一张塑料卡,将两者之间的粘合剂一分为二。 在此过程中,请注意不要用工具损坏任何电池。 损坏的锂离子电池可能会泄漏危险化学物质和/或着火。 只能使用塑料撬工具
    • 在最右侧的电池和上盖之间插进一张塑料卡,将两者之间的粘合剂一分为二。

    • 在此过程中,请注意不要用工具损坏任何电池。 损坏的锂离子电池可能会泄漏危险化学物质和/或着火。 只能使用塑料撬工具

    • 当使用热的iOpener时,如果阻碍感明显,请停止并使用iOpener重新加热有障碍感的部分。

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - 回复

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - 回复

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - 回复

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - 回复

    Is there a substitute for the plastic cards? have all the other supplies I need. Would like to avoid ordering the whole kit for those cards?

    martha - 回复

    A couple old credit cards should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

  25. 使用塑料卡从后面撬起最右侧的电池。 使用塑料卡从后面撬起最右侧的电池。
    • 使用塑料卡从后面撬起最右侧的电池。

  26. 与相邻的电池重复此过程: 将少量液体粘合剂去除剂置于电池底下,并等待2-3分钟以使其渗入并软化粘合剂 或者,如果需要,可以使用iOpener重新加热此部分。
    • 与相邻的电池重复此过程:

    • 将少量液体粘合剂去除剂置于电池底下,并等待2-3分钟以使其渗入并软化粘合剂

    • 或者,如果需要,可以使用iOpener重新加热此部分。

    • 在电池和上机壳之间插入一个塑料卡片,慢慢地撬动电池,来分离黏胶。

  27. 暂时将您的塑料卡放在两个最右侧的电池单元的下面,以防止它们重新粘到上壳上。 如果使用iOpener,请重新加热并重新使用,这次是最左边的电池。 再次,将iOpener放在每个位置大约一分钟,再加热,以加热最左边的电池的每一半。
    • 暂时将您的塑料卡放在两个最右侧的电池单元的下面,以防止它们重新粘到上壳上。

    • 如果使用iOpener,请重新加热并重新使用,这次是最左边的电池。

    • 再次,将iOpener放在每个位置大约一分钟,再加热,以加热最左边的电池的每一半。

  28. 重复上述步骤将两个最左侧的电池单元与上壳分开。 请记住将少量的胶水去除剂涂在每个电池底下,然后等待2-3分钟才能渗透并软化粘合剂。 使用第二个塑料卡片来分离电池和上机壳。
    • 重复上述步骤将两个最左侧的电池单元与上壳分开。

    • 请记住将少量的胶水去除剂涂在每个电池底下,然后等待2-3分钟才能渗透并软化粘合剂。

    • 使用第二个塑料卡片来分离电池和上机壳。

  29. 将第二张卡留在两个左侧电池格之间的角落。
    • 将第二张卡留在两个左侧电池格之间的角落。

    • 在以下步骤中,您可以使用第三张卡或右侧的卡片。 右角粘合剂应该是干燥/冷却的,使得在需要时可以容易地再次拉出电池。

  30. 为了分离固定最后两个中间电池的粘合剂,将另外少许液体粘合剂去除剂(或你的iOpener)应用于每个电池。 由于触控板位于电池的这个区域下方,因此请谨慎使用粘合剂去除剂。
    • 为了分离固定最后两个中间电池的粘合剂,将另外少许液体粘合剂去除剂(或你的iOpener)应用于每个电池。

    • 由于触控板位于电池的这个区域下方,因此请谨慎使用粘合剂去除剂。

    • 这可能会将MacBook Pro的一面抬高,以使粘合剂去除剂在电池下面以正确的方向流动。 在工作时,您可以使用书或泡沫块来支起MacBook Pro的一面。

    • 将卡片插入电池和上壳之间约一英寸(2.5厘米),将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - 回复

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - 回复

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - 回复

    To remove the center batteries carefully, you can add some of the liquid on the tip of the remover card. Put the card at the adhesive and simply wait. It works fine and you wont use too much liquid!

    Christopher Girke - 回复

    I bent the silver plate between the trackpad and the middle battery cells while removing the middle cells, resulting in a sunken trackpad when looking from top. Clicking the trackpad also does not work anymore.

    Tamás Kende - 回复

  31. 将卡拉出并将其插入右中心电池和上壳之间约一英寸,将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。 将卡拉出并将其插入右中心电池和上壳之间约一英寸,将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。
    • 将卡拉出并将其插入右中心电池和上壳之间约一英寸,将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。

  32. 在两个中心上撬起以分离最后一点粘合剂并将电池从设备中提起。 在两个中心上撬起以分离最后一点粘合剂并将电池从设备中提起。
    • 在两个中心上撬起以分离最后一点粘合剂并将电池从设备中提起。

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - 回复

    Just like the recommended adhesive remover method, the dental floss method also left some strips of dry adhesive inside the laptop. I used the flat spudger to peel it off. Have patience; it will peel.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

  33. 移除电池 安装新电池之前,请从MacBook Pro中取出所有旧胶。
    • 移除电池

    • 安装新电池之前,请从MacBook Pro中取出所有旧胶。

    • 有点运气的话,你可以用手指慢慢拉出每一块粘合剂。

    • 否则,用一点粘合剂去除剂将每个粘合剂部分浸泡2-3分钟,然后用开口或其他工具将其刮掉。 这可能需要相当多的步骤,所以要耐心。

    • 将任何剩余的粘合剂去除剂拖下来,并将您的MacBook Pro放置几分钟即可风干。

    • iFixit套件中包含的更换电池预先安装了粘合剂。 在剥离覆盖胶粘剂的胶片之前,仔细测试电池的配合和对准,然后将每个电池牢固地按入到位。如果更换电池上有原电池上不存在的胶片、衬垫,请将它们移除。

    • 校正 你新安装的电池: 将电池充电至100%并继续充电至少两小时,然后拔掉电源正常使用你的电脑。当出现低电量警告时,保存你的工作并继续使用电脑直至电量低自动休眠。静置至少5小时后一次性充电至100%。

    • 若更换新电池后出现任何不寻常的问题,您可能需要重置你 MacBook Pro 的 SMC.

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - 回复

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

    Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”

    ryan - 回复

    The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.

    I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    Pay attention to how the new battery sits in place before removing the adhesive strips. Although I did this, I didn’t notice that the rubber “feet” on the plastic frame around the middle batteries were very slightly out of alignment. The result was that the case could not be closed tight enough for the screws to fasten properly seal the case. It took a lot of poking around and attention to minor detail in order to get the case to fasten back in place.

    ellamama - 回复

    I followed the tutorial and everything went pretty smooth, started the calibration and got to the step of recharging after waiting 5 hours and my mac wont turn on. the magsafe charger is glowing red/orange but the mac itself is showing no signs of power or charging. Any tips? thanks in advance

    Ronald Francis - 回复

    Removing the adhesive strips of the original battery was relatively easy - compared to removing the strips of the iFixit battery… what took me 1.5 hours. All because the first battery delivered was defective so I had to repeat the replacement. Thanks for the free and quick replacement battery - fair attitude, but that did not saved my time…

    Andras - 回复

  34. 把一个加过热的iOpener放在触摸板的盖板上来使固定它的胶软化。
    • 把一个加过热的iOpener放在触摸板的盖板上来使固定它的胶软化。

    • 小心,在维修过程中不要把iOpener加得过热。在重新加热iOpener之前总要等上至少2分钟。

  35. 用塑料开启工具小心地把触摸板的盖板挑离上部机身(C壳)。 慢慢地小心地操作,以免在板上留下任何可见折痕。 慢慢地小心地操作,以免在板上留下任何可见折痕。
    • 用塑料开启工具小心地把触摸板的盖板挑离上部机身(C壳)。

    • 慢慢地小心地操作,以免在板上留下任何可见折痕。

    This adhesive was extremely strong for me and took quite a while to soften up (longer than batteries). I ended up using my wife's blow dryer after the heat pad struggled with it. Just take your time.

    Vince Cipriani - 回复

  36. 用塑料开启工具慢慢地小心地把触摸板盖板从上部机身(C壳)上揭开。 用塑料开启工具慢慢地小心地把触摸板盖板从上部机身(C壳)上揭开。 用塑料开启工具慢慢地小心地把触摸板盖板从上部机身(C壳)上揭开。
    • 用塑料开启工具慢慢地小心地把触摸板盖板从上部机身(C壳)上揭开。

  37. 轻轻地揭开盖板,拿走它。 轻轻地揭开盖板,拿走它。
    • 轻轻地揭开盖板,拿走它。

  38. 如果有必要,把覆盖在触摸板排线接头上的所有胶带都揭掉。
    • 如果有必要,把覆盖在触摸板排线接头上的所有胶带都揭掉。

  39. 用撬棒的尖头翻开ZIF接头的卡扣。 用撬棒的尖头翻开ZIF接头的卡扣。
    • 用撬棒的尖头翻开ZIF接头的卡扣。

    Qualifier: I have not actually been inside my laptop case yet to do this but judging from the photo in the next step (43) where the cable is being pulled out and the “release position” of the lock is flipped up in that photo…..I’d suggest the two photos in this step (42) should be reversed if one reads from left to right and assumes the photo on the left and what it represents is a step preceding the photo after it. It appears the first photo (left photo) shows the unlocked position with the locking mechanism “flipped into the UP position”. The second photo shows the cable holder in the locked position. Trying to remove (pull) the cable with the lock flipped down may result in a bad ending.

    Timothy Hardman - 回复

    Timothy - The pictures are correct and in the correct order.

    Step 41 is lifting the tape covering the latch that’s part of the ribbon cable, Step 42 is lifting the latch from down __ to up | on the logic board connector, Step 43 is now the removal of the ribbon cable from the left from the connector slot (look again the latch is still up).

    Dan -

  40. 将触摸板排线直拉出它在主板上的插槽。
    • 将触摸板排线直拉出它在主板上的插槽。

    Don't use tweezers for this (???) Pull straight, starting gently and a little firmer until it gives. 2014 doesn't have the retaining tabs

    Mmm ttt - 回复

    Point of clarification. The cable stays flat and is pulled towards the trackpad. Don’t pull it upwards toward you.

    quinnlawton - 回复

  41. 把撬棒的平头楔在上部机身开口处、触摸板排线途经处的下面。 轻轻地从把触摸板排线固定在上部机身(C壳)的胶上将其撬起。
    • 把撬棒的平头楔在上部机身开口处、触摸板排线途经处的下面。

    • 轻轻地从把触摸板排线固定在上部机身(C壳)的胶上将其撬起。

  42. 拆掉下列将触摸板挡板固定在触摸板和上部机身(C壳)上的螺丝:
    • 拆掉下列将触摸板挡板固定在触摸板和上部机身(C壳)上的螺丝:

    • 4颗2.2mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 4颗1.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

  43. 用镊子从上部机身(C壳)取走两片触摸板挡板。 用镊子从上部机身(C壳)取走两片触摸板挡板。
    • 用镊子从上部机身(C壳)取走两片触摸板挡板。

  44. 为避免划伤显示器,打开电脑越90度,然后侧放。 小心地让触摸板排线从上部机身(C壳)的空洞处穿过。
    • 为避免划伤显示器,打开电脑越90度,然后侧放。

    • 小心地让触摸板排线从上部机身(C壳)的空洞处穿过。

    • 这会把触摸板往它的前方顶出去。

    • 用你的另一只手扶着触摸板,这样它就不会掉落。

  45. 轻轻把触摸板从上部机身(C壳)拉出来,小心别划伤排线。 轻轻把触摸板从上部机身(C壳)拉出来,小心别划伤排线。 轻轻把触摸板从上部机身(C壳)拉出来,小心别划伤排线。
    • 轻轻把触摸板从上部机身(C壳)拉出来,小心别划伤排线。

    Regarding the re-assembly once the trackpad is back in place, be careful when re-fitting the batteries; the adhesive which takes so long to separate may not hold the batteries to the chassis upon re-fitting. It may be necessary to use thin double-sided foam tape to ensure that the batteries are held firmly in place once again so that vibration does not cause the connections between the batteries to fail.

    MarkB - 回复

    If your new trackpad won't fit into place, loosen the screw at the bottom, center of the case (you can see it in the step 36 pic). Don't forget to tighten it back up. This screw affects the amount of play and click in the mouse, so fine tune it until the pad clicks to your liking.

    Vince Cipriani - 回复

    Make sure you have a good fettle with the trackpad before sticking the battery back in, the brackets in 42 and 43 can move slightly and affect the position and function of the trackpad. Ensure you are happy with it all and fasten it in place before you think about the battery. Took me a while to get it sitting just right and true.

    Phil Taylor - 回复

结论

请按逆序操作重组你的设备。

41等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

80%

这些翻译人员帮助我们修复这个世界! 想要作出贡献?
开始翻译 ›

Sam Goldheart

于2012年10月18日注册

422,566 信誉积分

创作了547篇指南

团队

iFixit iFixit 的会员

Community

130 名成员

创作了13,331篇指南

I have a non clicking trackpad in a mid 2014 chassis, i brought it to the mac store and they say they found liquid damage throughout the computer. weather i believe them is besides the point it is a backup machine and I am not going to spend $700 to clean it out. There doesn't seam to be any trackpads for sale on here. Are they available?

peteuliana - 回复

Just replaced the trackpad on a Macbook Pro A1502. The customer had used the item very little and the trackpad had just failed completely. I found a seller on ebay with a brand new part and went about replacing it. The pentolope screws should have been no problem but one was cross threaded and would not come out. We had to drill it out. Big pain in the butt. Having swapped trackpads in Macbooks before this by comparison was much harder. The battery is glued in but upon further inspection it looks to have been designed to screw in and even has screw holes in the chassis and covered screw holes in the battery. This design seems to go along with the throw away mentality of apple. Apple store said water damage but there was none at all. They wanted 400$. The previous Macbook model they year before had recalled Trackpad issues but not this one???. Really crappy Apple dropped the ball on this one accusing customers of damage and doing nothing to replace a defective part. Thank You for the great fix it!!

Waynoenterprises - 回复

7/7/2016. I took my 15" retina to the Genius Bar at the Grove where I bought it 3 years ago, as the pointer was jumping around. It would settle down sometimes, then would act up again. A readout showed that the extreme rhs of the pad was not functioning. Had to leave it. Could not open and fix it at home. Was told this was a unibody, and the entire top of the case needs to be replaced. Will cost me $310 plus tax, and 4 days. They sure don't want us to fool with it!

john - 回复

I've a question. At first I want to say, my English is not the best but I hope you understand me and anyone can answer my question. I've also a problem with the trackpad and I studied this guide a lot. I will start in a few days to try to fix this by replacing the trackpad. The only question I have is, that when I have replaced the trackpad, does I have to use some new glue to stick the battery back in the macbook. Or will the glue which is already on the battery be enough ? I found some glue on amazon which u can use for iPhone displays or something like this and I'm probably going to use this one. Has anybody replaced his trackpad and could give me an answer ? Thanks in advance.. :)

markus ernst - 回复

Hello!! I have a Macbook Pro retina 13"(mid 2014) (model:A1502). Yesterday I took my mac to the technical service because the mouse is not working well, and I did'nt know if the problem was software or the trackpad.

They say it's the trackpad, but they should change the whole topcase, and it would cost me almost $ 700 to repair. They say that in this model can not be changed only the trackpad!!! From what I'm seeing here they did not tell me the truth.

How or where can I get a trackpad of this model to solve my problem? Amazon? How do I look for it and how much can it cost? Thanks a lot!!

Serena Zitarrosa - 回复

Thank you for this instructions.

It took me 1h and 20mins with a hair dryer method I saw on youtube. Now my MacBook is running smooth again and I got my Trackpad/Touchpad back. I used uhu silicon (for up to temps of 180°C) to glue my akku back in place.. I now have to wait for 24h. I hope this method will work.

Christian Alf - 回复

Did this work for you in the end?

sjuravle -

hi every one my name is marc i juste wanna know if the track pad is not connected does the keyboard still work ??

marc alkhoury - 回复

I just removed mine and the keyboard would not work without the trackpad plugged in.

Nicholas Gianoplus -

Massive thanks to the Author of this guide and iFixit for providing the parts. My trackpad seized up so I went into Apple to be told its £430 for the repair, I’d also been having battery problems for a while and they refused to change that even when I had Apple care….. So I’m glad to be able to stick it to them now, picked up a replacement trackpad off eBay and got the battery and fitting kit from here all for £130 ish. I would recommend getting the fitting kit 100%!! The adhesive removal solution is invaluable, let it soak in and it makes light work of removing the battery. The black metal cover which is on top of the trackpad was harder and I had to heat up to remove but it came away in the end. This job is totally doable, seems daunting but is pretty easy, I guess its marked difficult due to removing the battery. Thanks to all the contributors I now have a working trackpad and 0 cycle battery!

Phil Taylor - 回复

FYI, this trackpad adjustment screw for the 2013 13” will work in the 2013 15” and 2014 15”(A1398) (Macbook 11,3). I did it myself.

craig - 回复

Hey Everyone,

after having issues with the trackpad on my mac I am about to exchange trackpad and battery. Before putting in the new battery i would like to run a test with the newly installed replacement trackpad. Does my mac run only using the power supply without a battery on the inside?

I’d be happy to hear from you!

Simon

Simon Hamperl - 回复

添加评论

浏览统计数据:

过去的24小时: 24

过去的7天: 206

过去的30天: 759

总计 56,129