Introduction

Use this guide to replace the bottom speaker on your HTC One M8.

Please note that your device may have a large amount of copper shielding and tape covering the back of the display assembly, as shown here. If this is the case, you'll need to gently remove it to get at the motherboard.

  1. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the upper left hand side of the phone.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the upper left hand side of the phone.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    I just successfully completed the battery replacement on m8 using this guide…thought I would add a comment at each step to follow my story. This step of course should be easy if you’ve put the phone back together.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

  2. Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.
    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    My phone have a problem from sim card rejected ,

    shola - Reply

    Another easy step if you have the right tool

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the microSD card tray, located on the upper right hand side of the phone.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    another easy step if you have the right tool

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    • Remove the microSD card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.

    • When reinserting the microSD card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    another easy step if you have the right tool

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    • Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the upper and lower speaker grilles.

    I used a heat gun settings 200 at 75, but I also found using a hair dryer works just as well. Heated up the bezels came right off and for putting back on I heated it back up and they have stayed put.

    Jason Cobb - Reply

    I used a hair dryer for this which worked fine but I didn't need to heat it for as long as I did. 10-20 seconds is enough to start. I didn't realise how hot it would get so after heating for 90 seconds on high heat the phone was absolutely roasting and I've got two spots of heat damage on my screen. Still all works though luckily.

    Ian - Reply

    Disassembly: I did NOT use any heating elements. I have a straight edge razor (like you use to scrape off window decals). Gently push in 1 point of the straight edge and work in the rest of it. Then use a spudger slowly to remove the grills.

    Assembly: Enough adhesive should be left to reinstall the grill with no problem. Be careful align it perfectly then don’t be afraid to give a good push into place.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

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    • Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the lower speaker grille.

    • The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone.

    Disassembly: I did NOT use any heating elements. I have a straight edge razor (like you use to scrape off window decals). Gently push in 1 point of the straight edge and work in the rest of it. Then use a spudger slowly to remove the grills.

    Assembly: Enough adhesive should be left to reinstall the grill with no problem. Be careful align it perfectly then don’t be afraid to give a good push into place.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    You need to get between the thin black rim and the grey speaker cover, not between the metal and the black rim.

    Nebuar - Reply

    • Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the upper speaker grille.

    Be careful on these steps to not bend the grill while removing.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    What is the strip of tape for under the grill? Mine has snapped off completely

    crabonarock - Reply

    • Remove the two silver 3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the top.

    • Remove the four black 4 mm T5 Torx screws from the bottom.

    The markers on step 8 were wrong. The 4 black TX screws are actually all in the bottom, while the silver screws are on top.

    WP7User - Reply

    Nice good good

    tamerseleman68 - Reply

    Do yourself a favor and get a proper set of small screwdrivers including smaller Torx bits T5-T10 (especially with magnetism)…you’ll thank me later. Getting the cheap kits from Amazon or included in the order will likely not work or strip easy.

    Disassembly: be easy with the screws and don’t strip them. organize your workspace. i put the top screws next to my top speaker grill on the left of my workspace (and worked left to right…so that assembly was right to left) and bottom torx next to my bottom speaker grill.

    Assembly: be easy with the screws and don’t strip them. you will definitely feel the stopping point and don’t add extra torque.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    • Work your way around the perimeter of the phone with a spudger and plastic opening picks to free the clips that secure the rear case to the display assembly.

      • A metal spudger is pictured, but it is best to use a nylon spudger to prevent marring the device.

      • Be careful not to lose the power button: it sits loosely in the top of the lower chassis.

    • Significant force may be required to pry the casing apart.

    Note: the pictures make it look like it's the glass the comes loose from the body. In fact, it's the metal shell the comes off, while all of the electronics are attached to the face. To get it started, you have to dig your spudger in between the metal shell and the little plastic rim that goes around the glass. I found it easiest to start in the middle, below the volume buttons.

    Kael Shipman - Reply

    I wish this was more clear in the picture. I ended up cracking my screen/digitiser trying to pry the glass open... the more you know!

    NzUddin -

    I tried starting by the volume buttons but was having no luck. I found starting just under the sim card worked best. Raising the whole side and the top up allowed the rest to come out. Be mindful of the charging port at the bottom and don't force the bottom out first but rather lift the top end out then the charger will clear. Same goes for putting back together. Charger port in first them push down on the sides and top.

    Jason Cobb - Reply

    I used guitar picks to wedge inside the case as I prised it open

    Ian - Reply

    Why do they design it to make it so difficult to replace the battery?

    Rich Hanes - Reply

    Disassembly: did not use any heating elements. used my straight edge razor near the top left side opposite the volume rocker (it should go in pretty far and worked until i heard the first clip pop. worked around the top and down the right side. as others mentioned, you’re getting the top loose then rocking out the unit to not screw up the charge port. DO NOT LOSE THE POWER BUTTON.

    Assembly: hold the shell with charge port up and place the power button (this keeps it from falling out while assembling). put charge port in first then slowly work your way around the side little by little. I started hearing the clips pop into place maybe as I working around the perimeter on the 3rd try. after that, give it some good force as the unit should almost be flush with the shell.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    After destroying the tip of three nylon spudgers, I would like to advocate using a METAL spudger, as shown in the picture. Just be careful to minimize scarring of the metal cover. But, the nylon spudger definitely is not strong enough to release the chassis, especially since these phones tend to be pretty old and set in their ways at this point in time. With a metal spudger, I was able to separate the back from the chassis in just a few minutes, after spending over 30 minutes failing with the nylon spudgers.

    christopher e m - Reply

    • Remove the two silver 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the battery connector to the motherboard.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery connector.

    This caused a bit of grief for me on the reassembly. Be very mindful of the battery connector when installing the new battery. Look closely at the connector there is what appears to be a diode on the underside that needs to mate with proper contact to another diode on the motherboard. This is what actually allows communication between the phone and the motherboard. If this connection isn't mated properly you will get a 0% indicator on the screen and no charging occurring. Also the orange LED will flash 6 times and repeat. I suggest before placing the phone back together completely in the case to screw the motherboard back together and attach all ribbon cables and mate the battery. Then plug it in a charger and make sure you get proper battery communication and charging. DO NOT power on the phone at this point. Unplug the charger and put everything back together and you should be ok.

    Jason Cobb - Reply

    I have 2 of these devices and both had Philips #000 screws holding the battery connector in this picture. If the screw doesn’t catch and turn easy then try #000 or else you risk stripping the head.

    Stewart Diamond - Reply

    Jason Cobb’s tip is key. You saved me a lot of trouble, thank you! I didin’t get the connector mated properly at first, and that quick check let me find out. Got it the second time, the screen showed the battery percent and the normal charging screen.

    Eric P - Reply

    Disassembly - pretty easy, don’t strip the screws and use spudger. The pictures do not show that you might have a small rubber gasket on the screw closest to the charge port…KEEP IT. I also had a white wire that attached just above the charge connector.

    Assembly - as Jason said…the most frustrating part of assembly was getting that dang connector aligned into place. Put the white wire and gasket back in place before attempting. I gently used my fingernail until I felt it on the connector then had to give it a GOOD amount of force to pop in. then add the screws.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    Extra note on assembly - as mentioned above, this is a great spot to stop and connect to charger without powering on. you should get a solid orange light and charging icon / percentage on the screen. make it quick with the connect and disconnect

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the two (four) antenna cables.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the seven ZIF connectors.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the seven ribbon cables free of the connectors.

    All my connectors were covered in fibrous copper tape

    Karl Horton - Reply

    In mine, there were also two cables connecting at the top left of the motherboard to the daughterboard above as well, and where there is only one antenna cable in the bottom left of the default image, there were two.

    William Miceli - Reply

    Tape covered my whole assembly as well and the antenna cables were the same as previous poster.

    Jason Cobb - Reply

    The two cables at the top of the motherboard near the camera, mentioned by commenters above, will have a small rubber pad on top of them. You may wish to keep that pad. Also not pictured here is the LED surround. It can easily come loose from the motherboard. Don't lose that either.

    Alex LeDonne - Reply

    I accidentally broke the ribbon cable in the upper left that dives under the blue daughterboard. I'm not sure how, but it was probably trying to get the tape loose. The only problem it seems to have caused is that the proximity sensor (next to the front-facing camera) doesn't work and neither does the notification LED.

    KC Baltz - Reply

    Hi im trying to locate on internet the ZIF connector for the digitizer but its impossible to know how many PINS does it have can you help ?

    Pawel Pieta - Reply

    Mine was covered in tape as well. I gently pealed it off and managed to leave most of it intact for when I put it back together. Also had the two cables connected at the top left, they can be detached and reattached in the same way as the other two at the bottom. Just lift them off using a spudger when detaching then hold them in place with tweezers whilst pushing down on top with a small screw driver until it clicks in when reattaching.

    Ian - Reply

    Disassembly - I was one of the lucky ones to have pretty much this ENTIRE SPACE covered in tape. I peeled off the middle pieces completely using spudger and tweezers. for the ones over the ZIF’s….i peeled enough off to get them free then I used tweezers to lift the excess tape and my straight edge razor to cut the excess. be careful especially around the volume cables if tape is on them. At this point, disconnect the black cable on the right at the bottom and fold it away, then tackle the disconnects. the top left disconnect will be your worst enemy b/c the cable is folded under the mother board. be gentle.

    Assembly - use tweezers and spudger to get the connectors back in…double check all of them. I did the top left one first as i knew it would frustrate me the most. the rest went quick and easy.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    Reassembly: Before screwing the motherboard back down, connect the top left ribbon cable back into its connector. This will save you a lot of heartache, because the top left ribbon cable is just too short to force into the connector once the motherboard is screwed in.

    Daniel Handojo - Reply

    • Remove three silver 3mm screws using T5 screwdriver.

    Disassembly - Before the screws, mine had 2 wires connected (black and white) connected to motherboard at the top left. remove those first and make note of which ones goes where. then take out the screws. thankfully these are longer than the previous t5 screws, so you won’t mix them up. I also had tape covering part of the LEDs and extending onto the black microchip to the top left.

    Assembly - put the screws then the wires.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    • Use an iOpener or a heat gun to loosen up the adhesive securing the motherboard to the display assembly.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the motherboard free of the display assembly.

    • At this point, the bottom speaker is still attached to the motherboard. If you are only replacing the motherboard, refer to the bottom speaker guide to swap your existing speaker to the new motherboard.

    Disassembly - did NOT use a heating element. GET THE ZIF WIRES OUT OF THE WAY at this point. I started at the top middle with a pick and spudger then worked my around the right of the motherboard. gently lifted it out from right to left using spudger as needed to remove from battery.

    Assembly - placement is critical here between all the wires. I started by putting the motherboard bottom in place then laying it down watching each wire was positioned correctly as I went.

    Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Reply

    • Use an iOpener to loosen up the adhesive securing the bottom speaker to the motherboard.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to gently remove the bottom speaker from the motherboard.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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