简介
SL/SR排线扭损，会导致SYNC失效，LED灯和SL/SR排线无应答。在没有第二个Joy-Con的情况下，无法自行连接主机
在阅读本指南之前，请先在主机的设置—手柄与感应器—检查输入设备里测试一下SL/SR按键是否有响应
你所需要的
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用三角撬片从底部小心分开上下壳
My joycon would not open as cleanly as what is pictured here. The white box at the bottom of the controller in the last picture stuck to the top compartment and became detached from the part with the battery. It's possible it could have detached the other way, but I didn't risk it. I was still able to do the repair, but it gave a much tighter window as I needed to be very careful to not be to forceful on the battery wires.
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使用 00 号十字螺丝刀卸下电池盒上的三颗 3 毫米螺丝。
En la imagen se realiza sobre el Joy con derecho, si es el izquierdo, solo será un tornillo en la parte baja, se despega la batería y se sacan los dos tornillos de la chapa
I must have had a different model because there weren't any screw near the trigger on top of the battery for me. Those screws were located under the battery, which you can lift up (it is a little sticky). To do this on mine, I had to detach the rail from the lid in order to give myself enough clearance to lift the battery out.
Originally, I tried to do the next steps without lifting the battery compartment, but it was too difficult to mess with the locking mechanism on the ribbon. -
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将新的SL/SR排线插入插座
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用塑料撬棒协助插入之后，重新锁上卡扣
I can’t this to lock in to place any ideas on who to get it to work
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需要重新组装设备，请从第4步开始，按照相反的说明顺序进行操作
需要重新组装设备，请从第4步开始，按照相反的说明顺序进行操作
68等其他人完成本指南。
团队
University of Puerto Rico Mayagüez, Team 2-4, Cools Stephens Spring 2022 University of Puerto Rico Mayagüez, Team 2-4, Cools Stephens Spring 2022 的会员
UPRM-COOLS STEPHENS-S22S2G4
1 名成员
创作了7篇指南
18条评论
Nice guide. To loosen the battery compartment on my controller I had to remove te battery first. I couldn't see te top 2 screws in step 4. The battery was sticked to the bracket with some tape but removes easily. Underneath the battery were two screws.
Edit: maybe its different because I had to change the button board on the left JoyCon.
Yes! This Guide above shows the right Joycon. As for the left one there are two screws below the battery as you said!
Very helpful step-by-step guide. Thank you.
Had to change the Button Board on the left Joy-con. The screws were also located under the battery in my case. Attention: there 4 screws under the battery, two of which diagonal to each other that hold the battery compartment in place. No need to unscrew all 4.
Will this replacement also fix the LED lights that are now not working on my controllers? And if not, will this be a problem for playing with one Joy-con?
Depends on why your LED´s are not working. For my it was because the SR SL input was not registered, which will be a problem (only) for single joycon use. If its only the LED which is not working, then you should be fine.
Thanks for spreading this knowledge to us.
Thank you! My right button on the side turned unresponsive. I replaced the button board with this guide and fixed it!
Great guide - thank you. i need new eyes though... can barely see the screw heads!
Mega, nach dieser Anleitung funktioniert der Joy wieder einwandfrei 💪🏼👍🏼.
Excellent guide, thanks!
I also had a left joycon, so thanks to everyone who commented about the difference with the battery screws.
After I closed everything, i could feel the battery moving inside, I think it'd be better to stick it in place woth some tape.
Also, the hardest part for me was stel 6, inserting the new cable into the tab. I couldn't make it stay inplace. Then I broke the black tab lock. But finally I managed to put the cable into the tab, fold it like described and close the battery compartment, and the cable stayed in place.
The joycon works! I hope that shaking the joycon won't free the cable as nothing is locking it in place except for the cable tension due to it being folded.
Just used this tutorial today to fix my left joycon, thanks for the tips! One thing I’d also recommend is reinforcing the part so the SL and SR buttons are more clicky. To do this, I took the old, faulty part and ripped off the ribbon cable, then used a knife to remove the electronic parts from it so it was just a flat board of the exact same shape. I then screwed both in together one on top of the other, so that the part didn’t flex as much when the buttons were pressed. It’s now more clicky than the original board, which is nice! The piece flexes less too so less prone to breaking.
Thank you for the guide Javier! Thought my luck had run out when my OG joycons stopped working individually, but this guide and parts saved them! 7 years strong and going.
Definitely recommend folding the cable under the battery. It can feel tight because the new boards' cables come super straight, but just fold it over as much as you can and press the battery down on top. No matter how hard you press the battery the space stays quite big for them so just keep it in place while you screw it back in
The guide is incomplete. It should include a 'how-to' section for the left Joy-Con as well, since the steps are different enough to cause confusion.
