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简介

交换I/O板,它包括SD卡插槽,HDMI端口和右侧USB端口。

这条指导要求拆除散热铁。在你重新安装散热铁之前不要忘了依照我们的涂散热膏指南来涂散热膏。

    • 拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝

    • 两个 2.3毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 八个 3.0毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 在本次维修中,要对每个螺丝做好记录以便准确装回,避免对设备造成伤害。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 回复

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 回复

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 回复

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 回复

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 回复

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 回复

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 回复

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 回复

  1. 把你的手指放在上下壳体中间
    • 把你的手指放在上下壳体中间

    • 轻轻地把上下壳体拉开

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 回复

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 回复

  2. 上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。
    • 上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连

    • 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 回复

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

  3. 如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。
    • 如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 回复

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 回复

  4. 用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。
    • 用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。

    • 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 回复

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 回复

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 回复

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 回复

  5. 在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。
    • 在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 回复

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 回复

  6. 小心地从散热铁边缘取下风扇缓冲橡胶垫。 风扇缓冲垫跨过散热铁,并且有一个凸起部分卡在风扇管道里。在重新组装的时候,确保将其插进风扇管道的槽里。 风扇缓冲垫跨过散热铁,并且有一个凸起部分卡在风扇管道里。在重新组装的时候,确保将其插进风扇管道的槽里。
    • 小心地从散热铁边缘取下风扇缓冲橡胶垫。

    • 风扇缓冲垫跨过散热铁,并且有一个凸起部分卡在风扇管道里。在重新组装的时候,确保将其插进风扇管道的槽里。

    have lost the rubber fann bumper, what part do you have to buy to get this rubber? thank you

    Walid Shraim - 回复

    I changed out the noisy fan around 4-5 months ago. And lately it was back and I was super irritated about the poor quality of the replacement fan. Opening up the case and blowing on the ventilator some compressed air there was no noise whatsoever. I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover/bumper which could vibrate in the air flow channel. So verify that you insert rubber cover clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - 回复

    Use a flashlight and magnifying glass to see how the bottom of the bumper that wraps around the heatsink sits into the fan duct before you remove it. If it is not seated properly it can make noise. You’re welcome.

    Ron LaPedis - 回复

  7. 用撬棒的平头挑开散热铁螺丝上的4块泡沫粘合剂。 用撬棒的平头挑开散热铁螺丝上的4块泡沫粘合剂。
    • 用撬棒的平头挑开散热铁螺丝上的4块泡沫粘合剂。

    Ok, might be a dumb question, but where can I get the foam stickers, and are they absolutely necessary after reassembling the heat sink?

    akdarstudios - 回复

    I re-used the ones that I pulled off, and my guess is that they aren’t really necessary since they seem to just fit between the Torx screws and the bottom cover. I really doubt they are part of the heat removal system but are there to prevent vibration.

    Ron LaPedis - 回复

  8. 拆掉下列将散热铁固定在主板上的螺丝:
    • 拆掉下列将散热铁固定在主板上的螺丝:

    • 1颗2.7mm T5 螺丝(银色)

    • 4颗(原文没写)mm T5 螺丝(黑色)

    Please be very very careful when reassembling. The four black screws seem to be poor quality and the top snapped off two of them when trying to tighten them. Does anyone know the size of these or compatibility from other models as finding a replacement for them is proving to be almost impossible without shipping them in for a ridiculous price…

    Sophia Grace - 回复

    The single screw on the left hand side on the image above, what type of screw is it? The one on my Macbook is a phillips head one. And for some reason, I couldn’t put it back. Any advise?

    Mahmood Chowdhury - 回复

    These should all be T5 Torx screws. There could be variations in the construction of the laptop compared to this guide, but I’d check out our ID Your MacBook tool to be sure you’re following the correct guide! If you are following the correct guide, be sure all the elements under the screw are properly seated, if they’re not well aligned the screw may not get a good anchor. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I can confirm that on my 2015 13” Macbook Pro, the single screw on the left hand side is a #000 phillips screw.

    Stephen Martin - 回复

    Mine is also a philips head

    Justin Parry - 回复

    They are Torx T5 on my MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Ron LaPedis - 回复

    I’m doing 2 early 2015 13” macbook pro’s right now simultaneously and both have same size torx for all 5 screws. Upgrading logic board in one and putting its old logic board in dead mac.

    BTW, I’m a double EE, been doing this a long time and wanted to mention that i use only high quality German made tools for my torx and other drivers. I have found repeatedly, that the cheap tools that are given away in kits, wear out fast, sometimes after one use and lead to issues with fasteners. My drivers are made by WIHA. They are expensive but well worth it if you plan on doing this more than once or even once!

    Ross Elkins - 回复

    yes, Phillips head screw on 13-inch early 2015 retina for my unit 2.7 ghz, 8gb ram

    robert - 回复

    For those of you that do have the Phillips head for the single screw on the left-hand side, do you have a driver suggestion that worked well for you, without stripping the head? I have tried the 000 bit and one of the 000 drivers from ifixit but those are beginning to strip the head. I need a driver that has deep drive but I’m unsure as to which brand I should buy. I’ll spend the money for the right driver. Thanks!

    Ray Grogan - 回复

    Dumb question - if my replacement logic board comes with a new heat sink attached, can I ignore these steps (other than removing the red-circled screw)? Hoping so since this part seems like a PITA.

    Steve Kroodsma - 回复

    I too have a Phillips head for that one screw (early 2015 13” retina MBP, technically an Apple refurb). The bit I used is labelled J000 from my precision toolkit. Be careful since it so small, but i had no issues with tearing up the screw head.

    Edward Wilcox - 回复

  9. 从笔记本上拆掉散热铁。 当你重新组装你的电脑的时候,依照我们的涂散热膏指导来重新涂散热膏。
    • 从笔记本上拆掉散热铁。

    • 当你重新组装你的电脑的时候,依照我们的涂散热膏指导来重新涂散热膏。

  10. 用撬棒的尖头推iSight摄像头排线接口的两端,使其退出主板上的插槽。 用撬棒的尖头推iSight摄像头排线接口的两端,使其退出主板上的插槽。
    • 用撬棒的尖头推iSight摄像头排线接口的两端,使其退出主板上的插槽。

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M - 回复

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill - 回复

    I used two tools simultaneously. A spudger and a pic like spudger to walk it out.

    lucas - 回复

    Man muss den Stecker aus der Steckverbindung herausschieben, und nicht darauf drücken . In der englischsprachigen Anleitung steht auch push und nicht etwa press…

    Holger - 回复

    There are 2 black tabs either side - force them towards the back of the back of computer. It seemed to pop out super easily just doing it gently.

    Josh - 回复

    This step is very difficult. With care it could be omitted. After detach the cable from the glue on the back cover of fan, there is enough clearance to take the fan assembly out with a little pivoting, just be careful and don’t put too much stress on the table where it make a 90 downward turn to the connector. Reinstalling is just reverse and doable as well.

    Xiaokun Xu - 回复

    After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.

    Ross Elkins - 回复

  11. 将iSight摄像头排线从风扇外壳上揭开,并弯到一旁。 将iSight摄像头排线从风扇外壳上揭开,并弯到一旁。
    • 将iSight摄像头排线从风扇外壳上揭开,并弯到一旁。

  12. 用撬棒的尖头翻开风扇ZIF插头的卡扣。 小心地将风扇排线直拉出其插槽。 小心地将风扇排线直拉出其插槽。
    • 用撬棒的尖头翻开风扇ZIF插头的卡扣。

    • 小心地将风扇排线直拉出其插槽。

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric - 回复

    I found it a bit difficult to know exactly when the new one is back in position.

    steffen - 回复

  13. 拆掉下列将风扇固定在上部机身上的螺丝。
    • 拆掉下列将风扇固定在上部机身上的螺丝。

    • 1颗5.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 2颗3.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    When reinstalling, do the screw closest to the front of the computer first.

    Steve Wechsler - 回复

  14. 举起风扇最靠近显示器合叶的一边并把风扇从上部机身上取走。 举起风扇最靠近显示器合叶的一边并把风扇从上部机身上取走。 举起风扇最靠近显示器合叶的一边并把风扇从上部机身上取走。
    • 举起风扇最靠近显示器合叶的一边并把风扇从上部机身上取走。

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant - 回复

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Goldheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark - 回复

  15. 把撬棒的尖头插入靠近天线与网卡接口处的下面,挑起每个接头。 三条排线被不同长度的黑套包着。在重新组装的时候: 把长套排线连接到中间的插槽。
    • 把撬棒的尖头插入靠近天线与网卡接口处的下面,挑起每个接头。

    • 三条排线被不同长度的黑套包着。在重新组装的时候:

    • 把长套排线连接到中间的插槽。

    • 把短套的排线连接到靠近螺丝的插槽。

    • 剩下的一条排线上没有套,把它连接到空着的插槽上,靠近风扇那边的那个。

  16. 拆掉2颗固定I/O板排线护盖的2.1mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。 拿掉I/O板排线护盖。
    • 拆掉2颗固定I/O板排线护盖的2.1mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 拿掉I/O板排线护盖。

  17. 用撬棒的平头以竖直方向将I/O板接头向上撬离I/O板。 小心,只需要撬排线接头,不要撬了插槽,不然你可能损伤你的I/O板。 把I/O板排线弯到一边。
    • 用撬棒的平头以竖直方向将I/O板接头向上撬离I/O板。

    • 小心,只需要撬排线接头,不要撬了插槽,不然你可能损伤你的I/O板。

    • 把I/O板排线弯到一边。

  18. 用撬棒的尖头推I/O板接头,使其退出它在主板上的插槽。 用撬棒的尖头推I/O板接头,使其退出它在主板上的插槽。
    • 用撬棒的尖头推I/O板接头,使其退出它在主板上的插槽。

  19. 拆除下列将I/O板固定在上部机身(C壳)上的螺丝:
    • 拆除下列将I/O板固定在上部机身(C壳)上的螺丝:

    • 1颗3.5mm T9 内梅花头扁平头螺丝

    • 1颗3.5mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

  20. 抬起I/O板上的I/O板排线那一端,然后将其拉向主板方向以便使端口脱离上部机身(C壳)。 拿掉I/O板。 拿掉I/O板。
    • 抬起I/O板上的I/O板排线那一端,然后将其拉向主板方向以便使端口脱离上部机身(C壳)。

    • 拿掉I/O板。

  21. 拆除这单独的1颗将网卡固定在I/O板上的2.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。
    • 拆除这单独的1颗将网卡固定在I/O板上的2.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  22. 抬起网卡的活动端,将其笔直地轻轻地抽出它在I/O板上的插槽。 抬起网卡的活动端,将其笔直地轻轻地抽出它在I/O板上的插槽。 抬起网卡的活动端,将其笔直地轻轻地抽出它在I/O板上的插槽。
    • 抬起网卡的活动端,将其笔直地轻轻地抽出它在I/O板上的插槽。

    My second hand replacement board had a triangular RF protection instead of the L-shaped in the guide. Still it seems to work fine, luckily

    Ouwerkerk - 回复

结论

若要重新组装你的设备,以逆序方式执行这些说明。

24等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

en zh

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What do the Pins on the IO board do? the ones that can be pressed down?

Faisal Abdullah - 回复

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