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Information and repair instructions for GE Profile Refrigerator

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Fridge reads colder temp than actual.

This is a 2 yr old PWE23KYNGFS TwinChill refrigerator. The temp will show a colder temp than the actual temp for the fridge section. Temp is set to 34F, and the "actual" often reads 32F, but the real temp is 41F. Unplug for 30 sec and replug, the actual temp will now read correctly at 41F. Over the next hour or so, the "actual" temp reading works its way back down to 32 to 34F. No matter how often this is done, the coldest real temp I can attain is 38F. These numbers can vary a bit, but there's usually a 9 degree difference between "actual" and real temp.

The upper evap fan runs fine. The evap is not iced up (blocking air flow). So I suspect a thermistor possibly? Not sure where that would be located... And why does it read the correct temp when plugged back in to power, then slowly loses that grip on reality, and reads lower after a while? I suspect that this lower reading is preventing the fridge from cooling down to the proper temp.

Anyone have an idea what to try, and where it needs to be tried, I'd be most grateful. I rather dislike the shorter shelf-life on the easily perishable foods. Thank you much...

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Hi @scratchinghead

I can't find the mini manual (GE p/n 31-1000570) for the refrigerator but looking at the parts list there are 3 temperature sensors in the refrigerator.

part #841 (fresh food shelves diagram), part #719 (fresh food section diagram) and part #955 (case parts diagram).

Considering that they all have the same part number WR55X10025, their resistance value should be very close in value at any given temperature allowing for a small temperature difference between the bottom and the top, inside the compartment.

Perhaps if you remove all 3 and then check their resistance at room temperature you may notice if one is noticeably different to the others.

If a sensor is faulty, search online for the part number only to find suppliers that suit you best.

Another thing to check perhaps is if the door seals are OK and are providing a good seal and also that the door is aligned correctly i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet, preventing cold air from escaping (or warmer air entering if you like).

Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of an effort, but not easily and it shouldn't just fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.

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Thank you @jayeff, I do appreciate taking the time to research the part number and responding. Since this part is so cheap, I plan to order some and let them arrive before I get into checking resistance. Two of the 3 I may have already seen when researching the evap fan, the case unit is the only one I'm not sure where to look exactly.

The paper test I'll perform right away... I'll be sure to respond with the findings to both suggestions you gave. Thank you again!

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