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Repair and information guide for the GE Refrigerator GDS20SBS, a 2008 bottom freezer model without an ice dispenser, featuring automatic defrosting and an anti-sweat heater switch. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern GDS20SBS**.

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Refrigerator not cooling - Model: GDS20SBSBSS

Hi.

- Lights are on.

- Both freezer and fridge is warm.

- Don't hear the compressor running

Thank you.

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Need more information. Have you tried moving the tstat setting? Is the compressor hot? Condenser fan running but compressor not? Is the compressor getting voltage?

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@brandon_k

Yes, moving tstat setting is ineffective. Condenser fan is not running nor is the compressor. One of my answers below has readings that I am getting on the connector going to the condensor fan.

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Hi @myth9

Can you hear if the evaporator fan inside the freezer compartment (behind a panel at the back) is running?

It will stop if a door (either door) is opened and start again when the door is closed.

If you can't hear the evap fan or the compressor motor running, then it may be a faulty temperature sensor (part # WR55X10025¹) telling the control board that the temp is OK when it actually isn't, therefore the compressor and fan don't need to be running.

If you can hear the evap fan running and if the compressor is not running it could be a faulty compressor start relay (part # WR07X10086), a faulty overload protector (part # WR08X10061) designed to prevent the compressor from over heating, a faulty control board (part #WR55X10942C) or worst case a faulty compressor motor.

Here's is the mini manual for the model, that may help, as it has the wiring diagram if testing is required.

¹ The supplier linked was only because it has a video showing how to replace the sensor. If the sensor is faulty, search online for the part number only to find suppliers that suit you best.

WR07X10086 - GE Refrigerator Start Relay图片

产品

WR07X10086 - GE Refrigerator Start Relay

$75.99

WR55X10025 - GE Refrigerator Temperature Sensor图片

产品

WR55X10025 - GE Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

$23.99

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Hi @jayeff,

No, the evaporator fan doesn't seem to be running at all. Fridge is quiet.

I noticed blown capacitors on the mainboard, I will replace them.

Block Image

The following connector was dangling loose by the condenser fan housing. Do I test for voltage on this connector for the condenser fan. There doesn't seem to be a connector that disconnects from it. Could be wrong, I will check again.

Block Image

Appreciate your response and thanks for the manual.

-Myth

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Hi @myth9,

Looking at the mini manual, there's 12V on control board J2/2 (red wire) which feeds the evap fan. J2/3 is the return path, so if you disconnect the power to the refrigerator and then disconnect the J2 harness plug from the board and connect an Ohmmeter between harness cable plug pins J2/2 and J2/3 you should get a reading for the motor winding.

J2/1 appears to be an rpm lead for the fan. Not quite sure what the other evap fan lead does on J2/4 unless it is a fan temp sensor lead.

Not sure if the 12V is fed via a relay or not as something has to be able to turn it on and off as required.

There's also 5V on J1/5 for the temp sensors. Maybe worth checking that as well.

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Hello @jayeff ,

I replaced all blown capacitors on the main board as well as a burned out resistor pack under the board. Still did not come on.

What voltage should I be getting on the connector going to the condenser motor?

The other thing I noticed, after disconnecting the condensor motor connector, and plugging back in, there's a ticking/tapping sound coming from inside the fridge.

Thank you.

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@myth9

The condenser fan red wire is 12V and white is the common (earth?)

Check if there's 12V on J2/2 and 5V on J1/5 of the control board.

If there are no relays on the control board making the ticking sound, check if the ticking sound is coming from the compressor start relay which is usually mounted near the compressor motor.

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12 volt AC or DC

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@jayeff

I measured at the connector when i was there. When I measured from the Red wire to ground(white), the reading continuously fluctuated between 12VDC - 18VDC. The Pink (PK) wire to ground(white), gave me a fluctuation from 5VDC down to 0.3VDC. I will check J1/5 when I am next there.

I can hear the relays clicking from the board. This sound is actually coming from inside the fridge, can hear it when I put my ear to the back. Maybe the EVAP fan not spinning normally, not sure really?

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The capacitors are DEFINITELY a problem. The dangling connector is likely for an option you don't have - unless someone previously left it unplugged.

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Thanks Bill.

Was hoping that it would do the trick but unfortunately not. Getting some wonky voltage readings(posted above) after replacing those components, including the resistor pack underneath.

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