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2nd-generation magnetic AC power adapter for MacBook products, first released in 2012. Not compatible with previous generation systems. Available in 45W, 60W, and 85W versions.

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Cannot unsolder MagSafe2 cable

Our rabbit chewed the cable from the MagSafe2, and as I have previously replaced one I thought "oh, well".

Not so fast. When I put my soldering iron to the points to remove the old cable, the solder does not melt even when the temperature is turned up to max and the board gets discoloured.

Any clue what to do? I could splice the cables of course, bit of a cludge.

Edit: this is a replacement charger, smaller than the original one.

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Make sure the wattage is the same as the original charger and is designed for your system.

As to soldering these wires are hard to do as they are what we call tinsel wire, basically a non-conducive core which is wrapped with either conductive wire or foil. The solder is not special but you have a very small window as you don’t wNt the core to melt before the conductive surface wets and is conductive thru the joint.

Frankly, I don’t recommend trying to repair the older MagSafe chargers as you do risk shock and fire!

Be careful as the knockoff chargers can harm your system and one charger cost a company I was supporting over three million! Due to a fire it caused.

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It certainly looks like solder, a greyish metallic blob where the conductor goes through the PCB. I have a replacement with prepared ends, so as long as I get the old cable out in an orderly fashion I should be fine - I've done it before with success.

The charger is original Apple and has worked fine until the rabbit incident.

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@algarveaway - Different solders have different melt temps. As an example Tin is the lowest, Lead next, and Silver needing the highest temp.

Independent of that you need a properly tinned iron and the proper flux to clean and protect oxidation while soldering.

Apple used a Tin-Lead blend in there older chargers. I do think some knock-off’s might have used other solder types.

The irons wattage might also hold you back, the PCB and solder on the given Copper trace can wick away the needed heat.

Try using a more powerful iron (higher Wattage) as well as a larger tip (mass) so it’s higher temp and can deliver more heat quickly.

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