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An all-new Passat, based on the Volkswagen Group B5 platform, was launched in 1998 in North America.

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No crank on v6 (atq) passat wagon 4motion

I have a 2003 passat v6 wagon 4motion (atq). I believe it is B5.5. It started intermittently not cranking. It also has a weird quirk. If it does crank it starts up fine cold and hot but if it is warm (like it sat 20-45 minutes after running) it cranks and takes a while but then starts. This has been consistent. Recently it switched to intermittently not cranking at all. All the other electric functions on the car seem to work, lights, radio etc. At first it would do this and intermittently I could start it. It ran and drove well when it started. Jump starting doesn’t seem to change anything. The battery is about 2 years old. Vag codes 17831 and 17819 are the only codes. Had vacuum line service this spring. Also new coilpacks, neutral safety switch replacement at the same time as a transmission maintenance. Ran well for several weeks after service then this started. Battery and CEL stay on after the dash light test. My battery tester in my charger said bad battery then tested good on second charge. Battery? Starter? Someone mentioned the engine ground?…. If I have a step by step guide I can do multimeter and other testing but I have no manual for this car. Love the car when it’s running.

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Virtually every starter have three terminals on the starter solenoid; S, B and unmarked. The unmarked terminal may be a bare braided wire. Ignore it. The B terminal may have two wires; large red battery cable and a smaller wire that runs to the alternator for power. This small wire is a fusible link; its small gauge wire is sized to burn out if overloaded to protect the battery. The small single wire on the starter solenoid is the S or start signal from the ignition switch to powerup the solenoid. The solenoid has internal contacts that connect battery power to the starter motor thru the braided wire. A simple test for the starter is to short the B terminal to the S terminal to power up the starter without using the starting circuit. A short length of 10 gauge wire will suffice. There will be some sparks as the solenoid draws around 5-10 amps. Be sure you feel comfortable under the engine with parking brake engaged and transmission in Park (neutral in manuals). Leave ignition OFF as all you're doing is testing for starter operation. If the starter doesn't power up, be sure battery cables are clean and free of corrosion, including battery negative; battery to chassis and chassis to engine block. Its presumed this is the original starter with 20 years of normal use as starter brushes eventually wear out. My guess is a worn out starter. Sometimes, whacking the starter body with a piece of 2x4 may allow another start as worn out brushes make contact to the commutator on the armature (shaft assembly). Some are rebuildable with ordinary skills but a source for parts is needed; bearing, brushes, etc.

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Thanks so much for this. The starter is not the original. It was replaced about 7 years ago. I’ll see if I can identify the starter and the connections you mention to do the testing. Have done basics on cars including brake repair and swapping alternator (in a different car) some suspension and changing out sensors and coilpacks etc. for 25+ years and done electrical/electronic testing for non-automotive but still consider myself a novice. Never have done a starter. I diagnosed it last time (7 years ago) by the process of elimination of other issues and had it swapped out.

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