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Defrost timer not advancing

I have a defrost timer brand new but it won't  go in defrost mode I have to   do that manually and it will come out of  defrost, but what I notice when the timer is   in cool mode. only pin 1 and 2 which is defrost mode getting power and when I check  1 and 4 getting nothing  which is  cooling mode, and also the coil which is 1 and 3 nothing also, the thing  is when I   turn off the thermostat  that where 1 and 3 getting power and I can hear the motor moving  and the  timer would advance normally  but that when the thermostat  off I don't  know if  the thermostat  is bad but I am  getting conunity on the thermostat

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Can you post the wiring diagram?

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It's does not have one, tired of manually defrosting this fridge, just running continuously

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Virtually every refrigerator has a wiring diagram, either pasted to the back or folded several times and inserted into a crevice at the base behind an access cover for cleaning maintenance. I discovered wiring diagrams of my two year old fridge after removing the bottom grille to vacuum dust buildup on the condenser coils. The diagrams are folded into a small package and was inserted into a space. Some repair people need these diagrams or have to resort to online manufacturer's databases for technical info on repairs.

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Hi,

What is the model number of the refrigerator?

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Whirlpool WRT111SFAW00

It working for 13 year age now, defrosting problem it have rite now, brand new timer and Heater

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Hi,

The wiring diagram in the tech sheet doesn’t give the pin numbers for the defrost timer but it appears that in cooling mode, the defrost timer gets it power through the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat (supplier example only to show location and possible cost).

See the Steps to enter electronic defrost control test mode (if applicable) (in the middle of the tech sheet) to check if the defrost thermostat opens and closes.

Here’s a video that may help with testing the defrost thermostat. If the defrost thermostat is faulty search for WPW10225581 to get results for suppliers that suit you.

Hopefully this is of some help.

Update (02/21/2022)

@Ikaros Uranus

In defrost mode, is the heater actually getting warm?

Is the evaporator fan working in cooling mode?

In cooling mode check for voltage on timer terminal 2 (pink). If no good check on the defrost thermostat. If still no good check on the heater.

Here’s an image how I think that it works.

In cooling mode the red arrows show the path of the current to operate the timer. I think that the heater won’t get warm because there is not enough current for it but is enough for the timer.

When the timer operates after 8 hours to start the defrost, the heater is turned on because the timer contacts have operated bypassing the timer motor (green arrow through heater). However there is also still a voltage coming from the evap fan circuit (see green arrow through the evap fan which goes through the timer motor) which should keep the timer working but maybe not the evap fan.

After 21 minutes the timer contacts release and turn off the heater

Block Image

(click on image to enlarge)

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The defrost thermostat working and every thing but is it normal for the pin 1 and 2 to get 110v in cooling mode and 1 and 4 getting nothing

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@Ikaros Uranus

What is the colour of the wires on 1, 2, 3 & 4?

The wiring diagram only shows colours not numbers .

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1 Black, 2 Pink , 3 red , 4 orange, i want to send some image but there too big,

what i am worry about is why only is defrost mode the coil getting volt and the timer start to rotate but not in cooling mode, when i test across the terminal nothing

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When I come home from work I will send you some picture with everything with heater working and the voltage across the terminal or send me your email address or something, the phone taking out the image too big for this forum to upload it

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@Ikaros Uranus

In cooling mode check if there is voltage on 3 (red wire).

I would check the red wire for continuity from the timer, to the evap fan to the compressor and the temp thermostat, because that's where one side of the defrost timer motor connects to.

The other side connects to the defrost thermostat and the heater (also to the Neutral when the timer is in defrost mode so the power for it must come from the evap fan circuit when in defrost)

Is the evap fan working?

Just wondering why you replaced the defrost timer, what was wrong with the old one? Same problem or different, if different as it could just be a faulty replacement timer? Did you get a WP2162045? Yours may look the same and have the same connections but the internal connections or specifications may not be the same. That's why the part number is important or that the seller guarantees that it is compatible with your model refrigerator. Just checking ;-)

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Hi: I just went through the same thing that you describe and spent a lot of time trying to find out why my evaporator would freeze every week. Changed the defrost time and it would advance occasionally and was very erratic. Checked the heating element it was fine. Advanced the defrost timer and it would kick into defrost. Finally I decided to change the defrost thermostat. Did a continuity test at room temperature and it did not register. I heard that sometimes even when there was not visual defects it could still be bad. I decided to change it and when I cut the leads off to put the new one in I noticed one of the copper wire was black and corroded when striped. I changed the defrost thermostat and now it seems to be working fine. I hope this helps you and I know how frustrating it can be. When you have ice build up in the evaporator and it does not defrost it look at the following or change all items listed. Defrost timer,Defrost thermostat, defrost heater. In some units also the control board if the defrost timer is built in. My freezer refrigerator was a KitchenAid KSSC48FJB00.

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Thanks very much i will order a defrost timer online and probably change the defrost thermostat since it working great, the heater is brand new

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