Problems with the door opener?

I’ve had the same era of golf as this and the Passat and they both started doing the same thing after about 100K miles, the only thing the doors should do is pressing the unlock button once on the key fob should open the drivers door and twice in quick succession should open all doors (if programmed for this otherwise just once should open all). If they all open at some point and lock then I would say all the door mech’s will be fine and is probably an issue with the central locking and/or wiring. high mileage VW’s of this era are terrible for seals going and water getting into places and causing havoc with electrics all over the place. I would get the central locking system checked and make sure all the other electrics work fine on the car, any other issues with the electrics may lead you to the issue.

VW door locks have a small motor inside and microswitches which allow the controller to know if the door is open, closed as well as locked or unlocked. On high mileage cars, the locks can give problems. I have issues sometimes with the back doors on my 2013 Amarok. I have posted an answer here to someone else’s question. Maybe it will help you too. How do I get back passenger door to lock?

The other option is to scan the onboard diagnostics for errors. There should be fault codes logged for all the problems on all of the various controller modules. If you use a decent tool, the codes should be able to tell you if it is the locks or the controller at fault. If you don’t have access to a diagnostic tool, it might be worth asking for a dealership to do a scan for you.

Yes, check the motor <https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?thr...>. The OBD (on-board diagnostic) tells you. I had this issue 4 years ago with the pax door in a 2007 VW Rabbit. There are guides in the net how to get to the motor. There is even a description there that explains why the electromechanical buildup suffers from a design flaw: Since the motor can run back and forth, it has to stop at either end. There, it is stuck(!) and draws so-called short-circuit current that burns the brushes and the commutator. (Only in later designs a smart clutch makes the motor idle, thus making it draw only no-load current.) The entire inner surrounding is black of CuO (copper oxide), preventing the motor to run. If you open the motor and clean it inside, you may have peace for a while. Opening the motor is tricky - I've described this elsewhere. As a precaution a bought a stock of these motors Mabuchi FC-280PD-20150. They were made in a Saigon suburb and available from Brazil(!) only. So far I didn't need them.

نفس المشكل حدث لي عندك القفل الاتوماتيكي في الباب تعطل ما عليك الا كسره من الثقب الداخلي للباب لا حل لك الا تبديل القفل