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A 10 speed mixer made by KitchenAid in 2006.

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Stop working after being plugged to 220V instead of 110V

Our Kitchenaid have been plugged to 220V instead of 110V by mistake. After a big sound, the power transformer and the Kitchenaid stop working. I tested kitchenaid on an other power transformer but it does not turn on at all. I opened it but there is no burn smell or melted cable. Do you have any idea of what I can do to try to fix it?

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Hi,

Does the transformer still work with other devices (appliances)?

IF the mixer has a circuit board post some close up images back here.

Here's how to do this.

在已经存在的问题里加入图片

Usually there is a MOV -example only in circuit which acts as a surge supressor which would blow as its voltage rating would have been exceeded. (they don't have to be red in colour, it is only to show you what they may look like.) They will be near the "start" of the power path on the circuit board where the power first connects.

There may also be a micro fuse -example only which will have to be tested. This should also be near the MOV on the pcb.

If you have a DMM, use its' Ohmmeter function and start tracing the power path from the plug into the machine and onto the pcb until you come to an open circuit.

Do this with the mixer totally disconnected from the power.

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Hi

The resistor R15 has a burnt out lead and has been burnt out and it will need to be replaced. (shown in red circle)

I think that the colour bands on the resistor are Yellow - Purple - Orange - Gold.

If this is correct the resistor value is 47K Ohms and it has a tolerance value of 5%. It is a bit hard to tell from the image but it is either a 0.5W power rated or a 1W power rated resistor.

Replace it with a 1W rated just to be safe.

The MOV (shown as MOV2 on the board - and in green box) next to the resistor may also be damaged or it may be OK and has just caught the “blast” from the resistor burning out.

There should be some markings on the MOV which can be deciphered to indicate its’ value etc.

Be sure not to touch the marking with your fingers as sometimes they rub straight off.

It should also be replaced just to be sure.

The two cable (black wire and white wire) connectors (blue arrows) will have to be disconnected from the board and inspected in case they have been damaged as well

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(click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

There may be other less obvious problems that may have to be found by testing with an Ohmmeter and then on a live circuit with a Voltmeter.

If you don’t know how to use a DMM and since lethal voltages are involved when testing for voltages, contact an electronics repair service and ask for a quote.

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Hi,

thank you so much for your answer. I just removed the circuit board and I think I found the broken component. The resistance R15 is burnt and its connection broken. If it's the only broken component, I can probably just try to replace it with a similar resistance.

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Thanks a lot for your time and precious help.

With a better zoom for the resistance, I think it’s Yellow - Purple - Black - Gold for a 47 Ohms 5%. Do you validate? (Picture added on question).

The MOV is also burnt but I am not sure about the value indicated on it. I read MDC - 11AC - 150V - A8 - ???. Do you know which replacement I should buy? (Picture added on question).

Finally, looking at the circuit board, I have the impression that it has been damaged too. I see two burned areas (red and blue square). Is it a risk? (Picture added on question).

Thank you for the advice, I will do some tests with an ohmmeter on the unplugged card but I will not test on a live circuit with a voltmetre to avoid accidents.

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Hi

With a better picture I agree that it is 47 Ohms 5%

I believe that the MOV is MDC 11HC 150V A8

Here's a link to the manufacturer's HC series datsheet. In there you will find component D71ZOV151HC which is the Maida (company name) style number for the component which has a minimum marking of 11HC150V

Searching online using the "style number" I found this supplier. Unfortunately they have none in stock and delivery was only expected in March 2020, so obviously no good to you. This was the only supplier that I found by using the style number in the search term. You may have better luck ;-)

I found another supplier that whilst it is not an identical component, it is near enough to be regarded as an equivalent to what you have now as it has nearly all the same characteristics as your part, especially the main ones (AC volts, DC volts, max current) and the ones that are different should not pose a problem as they are very close in value to what the original has.. Worth a try anyway.

You may be able to find another supplier that suits you better. You'll have to search for varisters initially having the characteristic of 150VAC and 200VDC and then narrow it down to match the other characteristics as shown in the MDC datasheet for the component.

With the two burn marks on the board, clean them up using Isopropyl Alcohol 90%+ and a Q-Tip to get a better view of what has occurred. Even a Q-Tip slightly moistened with clean fresh water will suffice to clean off the burn marks. Just don't make it too wet.

It may be with the red box that the component on the other side (is it R15?), drew excessive current and burnt the board.

The same with the blue box. Whatever the component is that is attached to where the burn mark is (big black component marked SW1- is it a switch perhaps?) may also be burnt out.

Using an Ohmmeter will allow you to prove whether the board tracks and the components attached to where the burn marks are OK or faulty.

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Hi,

thank you very much! I'll do it as you suggest. You gave me amazing advice!!!

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Any update on this? Got the same problem. Thanks!

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