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LG WM2487HWM won't drain, OE error appears. Drain pump was replaced.

Hi,

My LG front loader washer would not go into the drain stage of the washing cycle.

First there were noises coming from a drain pump, then it sat for a while and displayed OE error. No drain or spin happened.

As many posts suggested, I checked the drain filter (it was clean), hoses and replaced the drain pump with a brand new one.

I then tried Rinse+Spin and Speed Wash cycles with no clothes, to confirm that it got fixed, but to no avail.

It again stopped on the Drain/Spin stage and displayed the OE error after sitting for a while, no loud noises were coming from the new pump though.

I then went through a diagnostic run, by pressing Soil Level and Spin + Power, albeit with the same result - no drain occurred.

What else could I do, please?

Thank you!

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Hi,

When you say "hoses' did you check the tub to drain hose?

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I checked the drain hose and also tried blowing into it from the other end, to see that the water in the tub bubbled. It did

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My washer wouldn't drain... I turned it off and drained the hose and cleaned the filter. After several minutes after doing that I turned back on with no clothes in to see if it worked, it started with 18 min and then got stuck on 16 min. What do I do next?

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@ostlers4 pull the drain filter out, and with a torch (flashlight) look into the pump. You should see the plastic impeller at the back shaped like a cross.. Use a screwdriver or similar to try to rotate the impeller. If it's stiff or won't turn at all you may need to remove pump from machine.

But first look carefully for anything like string that may be preventing the impeller from turning. If you spot such just fish it out with a pliers or tweezers and see if the impeller turns freely.

If not, you'll have to open the pump up and clean it, as others have said. Removing and reinstalling the pump requires some skills to deal with the spring type hose clamps in a tight space.

When the impeller turns freely there are still "pulses" of more difficult motion due to magnets and the way the motor is made.

I sure wish I had done this visual check before I removed the pump today because all that was stopping my pump was a rubber band. It would have been a 10 minute job instead of an hour!

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I need help. I keep getting the OE error code checked everything changed pump did the tablets ran 6 wash tub cycles nothing is working. Did LG diagnostics and now it says it is a dE error code. Which has to door with the door failed. The door locks and makes a clicking sound and shows a the red lock signal. What else could the issues be something with the switches or electrical component. Do I need to call a tech?

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REF: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/676595...

The above link is to the service manual for your washer. On page 26, it provides the troubleshooting flow diagram for drain malfunction. I would focus on

1.) checking the drain pump impeller for clog (perhaps a prior clog that didn't get fully cleared when you replaced the drain pump),

2.) Though you replaced the drain pump, a resistance check on the pump coil would be beneficial to double check your new pump, and

3.) the main board assembly checks for 120 VAC with a DMM. WARNING: This is with live power, be ABSOLUTELY sure you know what you are during. Here is a bigger image to help you identify the connectors to check:

Block Image

Another useful check is to make sure the drain pump is recirculating water during the wash/rinse cycle. This will clue you in to whether the new pump you bought is working/hooked up correctly (See page 15 to turn on circulation pump).

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Thank you very much for the document and your suggestions! I am not sure I will be going into the power board, as I am not that versed with electronic components and have no multimeter, but I will make sure to go through the tests. I only replaced a drain pump though, not the re-circulation one. Could the malfunctioning re-circulation pump also be the reason why it's not draining?

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The drain pump is also the recirculation pump. Depending on the signal from the main PCB, it will either pump through the circulation hose or through the drain hose (see pages 27 and 35).

UPDATE: Looking closer, your model does have two pumps. A drain pump (K340 on page 41), and a washer pump motor (K345). Both motors are connected to a washer pump (K344). I would inspect this washer pump (K344), since both the recirculate and drain pumps go through it to make sure there are no clogs or problems that prevent the drain pump from pumping water out of the drain hose. You can by the washer pump (K344) from here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-nu...

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Thank you, Tim. When I was replacing the drain pump (K340), I did also remove washer pump (K344) and saw no foreign objects inside the washer pump (K344) housing

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I just went through a diagnostic cycle again. Step 11 for Circulation pump succeeded, but not for the drain pump. I then started the washer in spin only cycle with minimal water in it, it wasn't spinning until I drained water through the small drain hose, manually. I'll go back in to check the drain hose for any blockages.

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The new pump measured 5 ohm, same as the old one. However, the old one spins too easily, as if it were off the drive, whereas the new one has some resistance before each turn

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So I got the drain problem message (OE) and I ended up replacing the drain pump (even though ad someone else mentioned there are no moving parts, therefore this part is not likely to go bad). My washer seemed fine after a couple weeks but then I got the message again. I checked all the hoses and they were all clear. What I did notice was the pump was turning on and water seemed to be expelled so the pump seemed to be operating as it should. After thinking about it for a bit it seemed to me that the washer thought there was still water in the tub. I found that there is a pressure sensor that is used to determine water level. I unplugged it and blew it out then the washer worked fine after. I'll keep an eye out to see if the same problem pops up again. I may end up getting a new pressure sensor if it does. I hope my experiences can help others fix theirs.

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I am having the same issue. We have done the tub clean spin cycle and everything except, take it apart and mess with the pump motor hosing and things. Aggregation to me, but love my washer and dryer. Thanks

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Hello All, I have the issue that in the last cycle of my load machine gives OE error, for eg if the cycle is of 1.05 mins it runs and stops at 25 mins and shows OE error. I have second-hand LG two in 1 7.5 kg machine. I right now have opened it completely and have reached the drain pump, which looks fine to me. The drain filter is clean as well. What should I do?

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Just to add, the water remains inside the tub in the last cycle and it is the actual pain.

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Please if someone can help immediately as I have the machine kept open

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I blew through the vacuum line and miraculously the washer worked again. Wasted money on a pump and time taking many other things apart to lastditch blow through a hose. Had this been on LG's troubleshooting website to begin with I wouldn't have needed to slowly work my way through every part on the washer.

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If you're getting OE code on your LG wash machine don't replace the pump. Most likely it's fine. Take it out and take the pump off the housing and then try the impeller out of the housing and clean out the housing and the impeller shaft. Mine was full of muck. Sometimes it would work sometimes it wouldn't and I noticed when I took the pump out of the machine the impeller spun with resistance. After I clean it it spun freely like a top. My wash machine works perfect again. $0 invested about an hour and a half at a time.

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we had to OE error and replaced the pump. 8 loads washed fine, then the OE error came on again. any advise?

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Pcb Assembly is the next item I would check if your not getting 120v to the drain motor

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Update, nine months later in my washing machine is still working perfectly. Don't go wasting money on buying parts. take the pump out and clean it. The motor itself doesn't go bad there's no moving Parts. It's a magnetic motor with an impeller. Just take the impeller apart clean it up, relube the shaft clean out the hole that it sits in and you'll be good to go! It's a cakewalk. I probably had about an hour into my repair. The hard part is taking the gasket off and putting it back on but I've done that before to replace it. They make a special tool for that gasket but if you're patient you can use needle nose.

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After running the tub clean mode and drain and spin to no avail, LG’s customer service has told me to buy washer cleaner tablets and run 5 cycles in a row of the tub clean mode. Strange, because those say they’re for dirty or smelly tubs, and mine is neither and only 2 years old. They arrive tomorrow so I suppose I’ll see.

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Did this work I am having the same trouble with my LG washer/dryer

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Yep, it worked! I used the Affresh brand of washer cleaner tablets. Cleared out whatever was causing it not to drain.

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If you're getting OE code on your LG wash machine don't replace the pump. Most likely it's fine. Take it out and take the pump off the housing and then pry the impeller out of the housing and clean out the housing and the impeller shaft. Mine was full of muck. Sometimes it would work sometimes it wouldn't and I noticed when I took the pump out of the machine the impeller spun with resistance. After I clean it it spun freely like a top. My wash machine works perfect again. $0 invested about an hour and a half at a time.

I did this over two years ago am I washing machine is still running just fine. It's just a dirty impeller for the pump. The pump itself has no moving Parts but the impeller. It's a magnetic impeller. It's a very simple job if you just take a little time to figure it out.

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How do u get it apart to clean it

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I agree. Behind the impeller is a cap that you can separate from the motor housing. Mine was gummed up in there as well. However, if the drain pump is making a grinding noise, there is a good chance that the impeller has come loose or broken off its shaft. Then you need a new pump. I did manage to temporarily fix the impeller to the shaft again by drilling a hole through the impeller and the axle and inserting a pin. Fingers crossed it lasts until my new pump arrives.

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I have an LG machine WD13020D or 12020D (on manual). My husband has removed the drain pump but doesn't remember which way the black and brown wires went to reconnect. Can anyone help?

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Brown is to connector close to the middle of the unit, black close to the edge. But it actually doesn't matter since it's Alternating Current AC. I just did this today.

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First look for the simple things.

Try to turn the pump impeller inside the pump after you've removed the drain filter. If it's stiff or jammed then look closely with a torch/flashlight into the pump for anything like string or a rubber band that may be preventing the impeller from turning. If you spot such just fish it out with a pliers or tweezers and see if the impeller turns freely.

If I had done this today I'd have saved all the work of removing and reinstalling my pump.

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Just replaced my pump only for the new pump to fail on the first load.

I'd already somewhat satisfied myself that the hoses were clear. I used a shop vac to pull the water out of the tub, forward and backwards through the drain hose, etc. But one hose, the little rubber drain hose, wasn't flowing. I used compressed air to clear it and a bunch of sand and small debris came out. Very dirty inside.

New motor didn't feel smooth turning so, it being dead anyway I disassembled it and found that the permanent magnet had cracked, leaving ferous splinters which jammed up the works. also the permanent magnets cavity its was full of water.

So, IDK if i got a bad part or the sand would sneak down from the little drain hose when the chamber was flooded and jam up the works. Chamber appeared clean when i took apart the first once but right now that's what I'm suspecting.

New part in a few days, we shall see.

Moral: probably a good idea to periodically drain that little rubber drain hose as preventive maintenance!

I'm now guessing

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