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Clothes dryer repair and support guides.

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Why does my dryer keep blowing thermal fuses.

Dryer heater won't cycle on and off. Vents are clear because I can feel cold air from outside when dryer is off. I've also inspected ducts. Can a damaged blower wheel cause the cycling thermostat to fail or the thermal fuse to blow? Or both?

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If the heating element is not glowing evenly could that cause the high limit thermostat to trip before the temperature control thermostat?

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Okay. Recently on an Amana dryer these were the parts that were changed out or repaired or replaced and, each time the dryer comes on I put it on different Cycles like for instance I put it on timed drying and I started out at the highest timed drying which is Heavy Duty 70 + No Heat (Air Fluff) seem like throughout each cycle there's no heat the coils in the back of the dryer heat shaft is not getting hot; however, it only spins and there's cold air blowing out, and everything seems to be hooked up properly but, I can't get any heat from the element and it will not burn. So, possibly there's a multitude of other problems and other conclusions why it's not allowing power to get to the element.

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Tengo una secadora marca General Electric,que corta el secadomuy frecuente y no calien.me ta lo suficientemente me podran ayudar?

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Okay, same problem here. Replaced the thermostat 2 times, the thermoster, and the heating coil, good airflow. Drum apins, Dryer will dry about 3 loads then stop heating works otherwise, just won't heat. Does throw any codes. Any thoughts? HELP!

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Doesn't throw any codes

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Thank you all for your suggestions. It was the blower wheel that was the problem. I replaced it, and everything is back to normal. Thanks again.

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Just wanted to ask , I noticed the heater is still on after the cycle ends. That is why my fuse are burn all the time. Every time I have to pull the plug off the wall.

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davidbenda ...

Your heating element is grounded out. Repair or replace the heating element. Some part of it is touching the heater housing.

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What was the issue with the blower wheel exactly? We've gone through 3 brand new fuses in as many days.

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If the blower wheel is stripped out it can't blow air. if there is no airflow the heating element will cycle and cycle in cycle until the high limit fuse blows.

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I was going to replace the blower wheel, when I found the real problem. First thing is, if the drum is spinning and the outside vent is blowing out, it's not the blower wheel, I found that out the hard way. But as I removed the old wheel I saw that the thermistor was covered in lint. I checked it with a multimeter and found it had no continunity, it was blown. The thermistor must work in tandem with the thermostat connected to the heating coil. So if the fuse keeps burning out, remove the wire connections and take a multimeter to all fuse and thermostat connections for continunity. To check if the coil is grounding to the housing, just put one test lead on one of the coil's paddle terminals and the other lead to the housing itself. If infinite resistance shows up then it's fine, there's no short. Now if infinite resistance shows on any of the fuses or thermal sensors, that means it's blown and needs to be replaced.

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Hi @alston56 ,

What is the make and model number of the dryer?

Suspect thermostat may be faulty as it should switch off heater when temperature is reached and not allow the temp to continue to rise and therefore cause the thermal safety fuses to blow (these are safeguards against a potential fire hazard)

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I have a defy dryer it's keeps on burning the thermal fuses yesterday I change now I must change what must be the problem

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Thermal fuses burn out to prevent fires. All dryers have a high limit safety thermostat that cuts power to the element at a lower temperature than the thermal fuse burnout temperature. In addition, the dryer may have a thermometer and temperature control or a simple thermostat. So there are three temperature sensors in most dryers, and the thermal fuse is the last.

The leading cause of thermal fuse burnout is obstructed airflow. Check the exhaust path for excessive lint or debris all the way to the exit point of the exhaust pipe. Check the blower wheel to make sure it isn't broken or clogged up. This can be done by using "cool down" or "air fluff" mode. If the unit has a lint trap on the outside of the drum, make sure it seals up when installed.

If there is good airflow and the heater is working correctly, the thermal fuse should not burn out. If the temperature controls are not doing their jobs, replace them.

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Question:kenmore 90 series,I've had problems with thermal fuse for 1 to 1-1/2 years,I kept using same one til i got aggravated doing it everytime i needed a load dry,anywho got a used one,3 dry cycles,stop,take off pop it put back on 3 cycles stop. Went to appliance store got a used one not new,3 cycles stop,I've replaced heating coil and may not have been the problem, maybe but my vent is clean, I guess I'll check all other thermometers,fuse's and other key connections,plus see if htr.coil grounding out on outer cover,I'll get back and tell yall what i find.if y'all know leave message incase i get seen-isle,haha

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in the last few weeks, my heating element burnt out, then two high limit thermistat, and no the thermistor has blown out. we noticed this when the dryer the would turn off after 3 minutes. Is there anything else I should be checking? I would prefer to not have to take the dryer a part again…

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Hi, I had this problem and as everyone else went through many fuses. I found that the plastic wire connected was not properly installed on to the motor. The second connector from the bottom of the motor housing was bent and was not sliding into the connector. The bottom one and the others were... This did not allow Switch to turn off the current when got too warm and the heating element stayed on which kicks off the thermal fuse for safety causing you to have to replace it. This find fixed my Samsung dryer... it might be the cause of yours too..

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I replaced the thermistor on my Samsung dryer, it blew twice before I figured out the problem. There is a thin film that developed on my lint trap that was restricting air flow, it took me a while to clean it off using hot hot water and soap, I was very careful not to tear the screen. Once I replaced the thermistor my problem was solved.

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My Samsung dryer kept blowing the thermal fuse. Venting was fine. Element fine. Thermal Cut-off fine. Thermistor fine. What it finally turned out to be was the Samsung DC96-00882C Dryer Idler Pulley. A groove/opening somehow got worn into it. The dryer appeared to tumble just fine, but apparently this groove/opening caused it to have to work a lot harder to tumble thus heating up the whole inner space of the dryer. Once the Idler Pulley was replaced, no more blown fuse. Inexpensive part. Samsung should not have made this part so cheaply to allow it to be compromised like this as my dryer is only a couple years old.

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up date to the dryer found out by A&E Factory repair that it was the drum seal that was bad and the main board both have been replaced dryer is working amazing once again... Thank you for all the comments

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I am going through this again!! My thermal cutoff keeps opening. I cleaned they exhaust line. I even leveled the dryer thinking that because it was leaning forward all the clothes were clumping by the lint screen area impacting air flow. I just ordered a generic thermistor as when I test the one o have it seems to be reading much higher than 11k. I also ordered a digital multimeter as my analog one ohm scale is not useful. I have been fighting my dryer for years! I may just check the drum wheels next based on the idea about the pulley someone mentioned.

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Ok , so am i just having really bad luck with used dryes? lol , i seriously just bought 3 cheap ones in a row, each worked fne at first, than with in a weekthey all lost heat. could ths possibly besomething from the outside, such as some power surg? !&&* i dont know, i hvnt noticed any surging power, ......lol but it just sems weird 3 dryers in a row, same issue, iv been buying used dryers all my life, in 20 yrs had one dryer with thermal fuse issue , now , Bam! with in a 2 mo period 3with issue, so imjust curious , thanks Shelly

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The Samsung dryer thermostat KSD301T is rated at 10 amps. The dryer coils measure 12 ohms. That means they take 20 amps from 240 volts. Conclusion: That is a designerror. They are using the thermostat beyond its rating. Potentially a class action suit waiting to happen

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Hi,

What is the model number of the dryer?

Thermal fuses only react to excessive temperature and not to excessive current unless the excessive current is sufficient to cause the thermal fuse itself to heat up to the trigger temperature.

If it was the incorrect rating it would have blown the first time the dryer was used and not after a period of time

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