Hi I have a 883 Sportster and I am having problem with if shifting, I can leave in first and try to go to second and itll click to N. If i get it to shift gears normal I have trouble getting it to downshift, it'll sound like its shifting but not going to the next gear. I took the primary cover off to take a look in there and adjust the clutch and as soon as lossened the screws fluid came out which i dont think its suppose to do, I can not figure out what it is.
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You might want to get the factory (or another high quality) service manual, as adjusting the clutch is a bit fidgety. You have to adjust at the release cam, then adjust the slack in the cable, then replace the primary cover and refill the primary case oil.
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There is a shift pawl adjustment procedure that migjt be needed? The are 2 nuts that hold shift pawl adjstment in place. They need to be losedned, then a drill bit of a specific size (found in factory service manual,if you dont have a manual you should not be messing with it tbh.) inserted as a gauge, but then nuts are re tightened. But the entire cover will need to be removed to do so. Yes you will loose the sport trans fl. When you remove cover.
the sporters primary cover also holds the sporttrans fluid. (For both the clutch &transmission, this also lubes the primary chain & sprocket) as this is a wet clutch setup. If you losen cover it will come out, that is normal.
Whenever you do work on clutch pack or stator/ rotor, transmissio. Sertain seals, etc. Cover will have to come off.
You can adjust clutch cable free play & primary chain tensioner though inspection cover without removing primary cover. So no fluid loss in that situation.
The indent on shifter pawl freeplay and postition rotate the mechanism that follows theough to gear selection etc.
Beyond that I would look at transmition forks etc.
As I guess you already have shifter rod and clutch freeplay adj. Properly so they are eliminated from equation already. Hope this is helpful. I imagine you already solved issue as years have passed ans I didnt see replies to you question. But maybe it will help someone else who sees this post. Good luck on your shifting issue. Shop manual cost money up front but saves you tons in diy and or awareness when dealing with mechanics and then its ia about billable shops hours per job. Harley has specific hrs per job. If a mechanic knows their atuff and they uave parts & tools they can beat book times amd still do good work, and some dealerships give employee incentive bonus based on % and book rate. Faster work =more customers & more $$$-$$$$ etc.
As my bros in the dealerships say there is an ass for every seat. GL.
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