@ericreyes59663 let us know if have you taken any voltage measurements on your TV? Now where you have replaced all teh boards, the only thing left is the panel. However, you really should not have gotten the behavior of your USB strips. Post some good pictures of you boards as well as the driver boards. Those are the long skinny boards that connect directly to the LCD panel. Include the ribbon cables in any image. I suspect that this is where the issue originates.
[guide|21499]
=== Update (03/21/24) ===
@ericreyes59663 two things come to mind. The backlights and the LCD panel. For now try this:
* Unplug the power cord at the power board
* Remove one ribbon cord (image 9) from your driver board
* Replace power cord on power board
* Turn TV on
Let us know what is going on with your TV. Next repeat, just this time the other side.
* Unplug TV
* Replace previously removed ribbon cable
* Disconnect the other ribbon cable.
* Reconnect the power cord
* Turn TV on
Let us know what is going on with your TV. If this is a bad panel, separating the Left and Right half sometimes shows results (like that half the panel will light up or blink.
Next, reconnect everything on your TV. Now use a voltmeter and set it to something like 300 VDC or similar. Connect the black probe from your meter to ground and turn your TV on. Now measure the voltage on your LED backlight connector. It's either the Red that is + or the White. Let us know what that voltage is. You may need to have your meter already connected when you turn you TV on. Let us know what you find out.
Looks like your power board only has one line in to the backlight. That means that all of your backlight strips are in series. If a single LED is out, the backlight will not come on. Some TV's have a special circuit that "checks" the backlight. It they do not come on (do not draw any power) the TV will not function. It goes into a protect mode. That would also mean that you would not have any sound. For now, you can't rule out the back lights
Word of caution. While your TV is plugged in and turned on, your power board receives full household power (110V) You need to be mindful where you place your hands and fingers. Do not touch anything with your bare hands and stay away from the "Hot Side". That also goes for when you turn your TV off. The capacitors remain charged and they do "bite" if you get in touch with the contacts :-) Not a pleasant experience.
=== Update (03/23/24) ===
@ericreyes59663 that is the crux of the thing.
[image|3262259]
Those are FPC or Flexible Printed Circuit's They are fastened to the LCD via a special process. Take a look at something like [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7l3m3qQt_SU&t=16s|this video] about how it is done.
-
You do want to avoid those boards (FPC) from coming off. Whenever I work on a LCD panel, I secure those boards to the panel with some painters tapes or similar. I do hope this answers what you were asking :-) No forgiving necessary. We are all in this together. We are all learning and sharing. Can't learn if you don't ask :-) Remember what's important:
+
You do want to avoid those boards (FPC) from coming off. Whenever I work on a LCD panel, I secure those boards to the panel with some painters tapes or similar.
+
+
Also, those driver boards always correspond to the T-con board. Check [https://www.panelook.com/CV500U1-T01_CHOT_50_CELL_overview_33830.html |on here] and that is just based on the number on your driver boards.That is how things get matched up and that is why we can't just pop in another panel. They do have to match. If we could change those driver boards then we could just use any panel and a matching T-con board. Companies would not like that. It'll cut into their profit.
+
+
I do hope this answers what you were asking :-) No forgiving necessary. We are all in this together. We are all learning and sharing. Can't learn if you don't ask :-) Remember what's important:
@ericreyes59663 let us know if have you taken any voltage measurements on your TV? Now where you have replaced all teh boards, the only thing left is the panel. However, you really should not have gotten the behavior of your USB strips. Post some good pictures of you boards as well as the driver boards. Those are the long skinny boards that connect directly to the LCD panel. Include the ribbon cables in any image. I suspect that this is where the issue originates.
[guide|21499]
=== Update (03/21/24) ===
@ericreyes59663 two things come to mind. The backlights and the LCD panel. For now try this:
* Unplug the power cord at the power board
* Remove one ribbon cord (image 9) from your driver board
* Replace power cord on power board
* Turn TV on
Let us know what is going on with your TV. Next repeat, just this time the other side.
* Unplug TV
* Replace previously removed ribbon cable
* Disconnect the other ribbon cable.
* Reconnect the power cord
* Turn TV on
Let us know what is going on with your TV. If this is a bad panel, separating the Left and Right half sometimes shows results (like that half the panel will light up or blink.
Next, reconnect everything on your TV. Now use a voltmeter and set it to something like 300 VDC or similar. Connect the black probe from your meter to ground and turn your TV on. Now measure the voltage on your LED backlight connector. It's either the Red that is + or the White. Let us know what that voltage is. You may need to have your meter already connected when you turn you TV on. Let us know what you find out.
Looks like your power board only has one line in to the backlight. That means that all of your backlight strips are in series. If a single LED is out, the backlight will not come on. Some TV's have a special circuit that "checks" the backlight. It they do not come on (do not draw any power) the TV will not function. It goes into a protect mode. That would also mean that you would not have any sound. For now, you can't rule out the back lights
Word of caution. While your TV is plugged in and turned on, your power board receives full household power (110V) You need to be mindful where you place your hands and fingers. Do not touch anything with your bare hands and stay away from the "Hot Side". That also goes for when you turn your TV off. The capacitors remain charged and they do "bite" if you get in touch with the contacts :-) Not a pleasant experience.
+
+
=== Update (03/23/24) ===
+
@ericreyes59663 that is the crux of the thing.
+
+
[image|3262259]
+
+
Those are FPC or Flexible Printed Circuit's They are fastened to the LCD via a special process. Take a look at something like [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7l3m3qQt_SU&t=16s|this video] about how it is done.
+
+
You do want to avoid those boards (FPC) from coming off. Whenever I work on a LCD panel, I secure those boards to the panel with some painters tapes or similar. I do hope this answers what you were asking :-) No forgiving necessary. We are all in this together. We are all learning and sharing. Can't learn if you don't ask :-) Remember what's important:
@ericreyes59663 let us know if have you taken any voltage measurements on your TV? Now where you have replaced all teh boards, the only thing left is the panel. However, you really should not have gotten the behavior of your USB strips. Post some good pictures of you boards as well as the driver boards. Those are the long skinny boards that connect directly to the LCD panel. Include the ribbon cables in any image. I suspect that this is where the issue originates.
[guide|21499]
=== Update (03/21/24) ===
@ericreyes59663 two things come to mind. The backlights and the LCD panel. For now try this:
* Unplug the power cord at the power board
* Remove one ribbon cord (image 9) from your driver board
* Replace power cord on power board
* Turn TV on
Let us know what is going on with your TV. Next repeat, just this time the other side.
* Unplug TV
* Replace previously removed ribbon cable
* Disconnect the other ribbon cable.
* Reconnect the power cord
* Turn TV on
Let us know what is going on with your TV. If this is a bad panel, separating the Left and Right half sometimes shows results (like that half the panel will light up or blink.
-
Next, reconnect everything on your TV. Now use a voltmeter and set it to something like 300 VDC or similar. Connect the black probe of your meter to ground and turn your TV on. Now measure the voltage on your LED backlight connector. It's either the Red that is + or the White. Let us know what that voltage is. You may need to have your meter already connected when you turn you TV on. Let us know what you find out.
+
Next, reconnect everything on your TV. Now use a voltmeter and set it to something like 300 VDC or similar. Connect the black probe from your meter to ground and turn your TV on. Now measure the voltage on your LED backlight connector. It's either the Red that is + or the White. Let us know what that voltage is. You may need to have your meter already connected when you turn you TV on. Let us know what you find out.
-
Looks like your power board only has one line in to the backlight. That means that all of your strips are in series. If a single LED is out, the backlight will not come on. Some TV's have a special circuit that "checks" teh backlight. It they do not come on (do not draw any power, teh TV will not function. It goes into a proct mode. That would also mean that you would not have any sound. So for now, you can't rule out the back lights/
+
Looks like your power board only has one line in to the backlight. That means that all of your backlight strips are in series. If a single LED is out, the backlight will not come on. Some TV's have a special circuit that "checks" the backlight. It they do not come on (do not draw any power) the TV will not function. It goes into a protect mode. That would also mean that you would not have any sound. For now, you can't rule out the back lights
-
Word of caution. While your TV is plugged in and turned on, your power board receives full household power (110V/240V depends on where you are) You need to be mindful where you place your hands and fingers. Do not touch anything with your bare hands and stay away from the "Hot Side". That also goes for when you turn your TV off. The capacitors remain charged and they do "bite" if you get in touch with the contacts :-) Not a pleasant experience.
+
Word of caution. While your TV is plugged in and turned on, your power board receives full household power (110V) You need to be mindful where you place your hands and fingers. Do not touch anything with your bare hands and stay away from the "Hot Side". That also goes for when you turn your TV off. The capacitors remain charged and they do "bite" if you get in touch with the contacts :-) Not a pleasant experience.
@ericreyes59663 let us know if have you taken any voltage measurements on your TV? Now where you have replaced all teh boards, the only thing left is the panel. However, you really should not have gotten the behavior of your USB strips. Post some good pictures of you boards as well as the driver boards. Those are the long skinny boards that connect directly to the LCD panel. Include the ribbon cables in any image. I suspect that this is where the issue originates.
[guide|21499]
+
+
=== Update (03/21/24) ===
+
@ericreyes59663 two things come to mind. The backlights and the LCD panel. For now try this:
+
+
* Unplug the power cord at the power board
+
* Remove one ribbon cord (image 9) from your driver board
+
* Replace power cord on power board
+
* Turn TV on
+
Let us know what is going on with your TV. Next repeat, just this time the other side.
+
+
* Unplug TV
+
* Replace previously removed ribbon cable
+
* Disconnect the other ribbon cable.
+
* Reconnect the power cord
+
* Turn TV on
+
Let us know what is going on with your TV. If this is a bad panel, separating the Left and Right half sometimes shows results (like that half the panel will light up or blink.
+
+
Next, reconnect everything on your TV. Now use a voltmeter and set it to something like 300 VDC or similar. Connect the black probe of your meter to ground and turn your TV on. Now measure the voltage on your LED backlight connector. It's either the Red that is + or the White. Let us know what that voltage is. You may need to have your meter already connected when you turn you TV on. Let us know what you find out.
+
+
Looks like your power board only has one line in to the backlight. That means that all of your strips are in series. If a single LED is out, the backlight will not come on. Some TV's have a special circuit that "checks" teh backlight. It they do not come on (do not draw any power, teh TV will not function. It goes into a proct mode. That would also mean that you would not have any sound. So for now, you can't rule out the back lights/
+
+
Word of caution. While your TV is plugged in and turned on, your power board receives full household power (110V/240V depends on where you are) You need to be mindful where you place your hands and fingers. Do not touch anything with your bare hands and stay away from the "Hot Side". That also goes for when you turn your TV off. The capacitors remain charged and they do "bite" if you get in touch with the contacts :-) Not a pleasant experience.
@ericreyes59663 let us know if have you taken any voltage measurements on your TV? Now where you have replaced all teh boards, the only thing left is the panel. However, you really should not have gotten the behavior of your USB strips. Post some good pictures of you boards as well as the driver boards. Those are the long skinny boards that connect directly to the LCD panel. Include the ribbon cables in any image. I suspect that this is where the issue originates.
[guide|21499]