Hum, j'arrive un peu tard ? J'ai eu l'occasion de démonter des macs assez anciens, mais pas celui-là. Mécaniquement, c'est plutôt bien conçu. Si des vis sont visibles de l'extérieur (dessous ou arrière, les enlever ... Sur l'image "2 of 3" de cette page : http://picclick.ca/Vintage-Apple-Macintosh-LC-II-M1700-Desktop-Computer-142156562892.html on voit que la face supérieure , à l'arrière a deux parties déformables. Je crois qu'en forçant pour les déformer, on arrive à libérer l'arrière et à sortir le "couvercle" vers l'avant.
Flying Dutchman is right, and maybe I'd be more optimistic... It's not easy to see from the pictures, but these "irreplaceable" led bulbs look a bit like standard GX53 bulbs, that can be bought from Aliexpress or ebay for less than 5$ each (I use such lamps for 2 years now, and at 5w, they're very efficient) . Of course, I wont try to teardown these lamps to verify *before* they fail ;-)
I suppose your system is a flavour of windows, and I'm afraid it's risky to try to overcome this problem using windows. You don't say if your computer asks for a password *before* booting (BIOS password) or after booting, just before starting a windows session. If the password is asked by windows, this could work : If you can use an other computer , and if your blocked PC has a usable DVD reader/burner, you should try to - download and burn a bootable rescue CD (the easiest to use are linux rescue CDs/DVDs) - backup your data to an external hard disk (you must find one, with enough room for your data). - depending of the version of windows you use, there could be a file to erase or to reset to initial value so as to delete the password If the password asked is a boot password, i.e asked by the BIOS, it can be erased by resetting the setup of the BIOS. For this purpose, depending of the make/model of your PC, you have 2 solutions. - you just can take the battery out for a couple of days and wait till the...
If your PC shuts down "due to heat", I suppose it means it starts when cold and shuts down a short time after. You say you cleaned the heatsink of the processor. Maybe you moved slightly the heatsink and the thermal contact between processor and heatsink is not good enough any more. Recent processors are protected against overheating, and shut down when they "feel" hot. Maybe you just have to put new thermal paste or thermal sheet between processor and heatsink. The thermal link generally works well only at first application.
Probably not Pentax (I'm a long-time pentaxist and I looked at my lenses). You should look at the text on the lens. Generally, the reference of the lens indicates its type. One of my lenses in not from Pentax, but it's marked "-Pk" at the end of its marking, which means "Pentax K mount ".
Hi, I don't think it's a pb of decaying sensitivity of the module laser+LED/sensor, because the contrast is usually better on pressed DVDs than on burned ones. I suspect your problem could (?) be a mechanical pb : maybe the TOC (the "catalog" zone of the DVD, near the center) of pressed DVD is closer to the center than the TOC of burned ones, and your head cannot go so for any more, if grease has gathered on its rails, at the 2 extremities of its course. I would try a good "washing" of the rils, or at least a good exercising, with power off, to force (not violently) the head to go to the true maximum limit of its course. my 10 cents ;-)
Hi Is this a brand new multifunction printer ? If so, did it work since you bought it ? If it never worked, it is probably packed with the moving part of the scanner locked. In this case, the user manual should say what to do before using the scanner, i.e how to unlock the carriage of the scanner. Hope this helps.
Hello Have a look at the connector, one or more pin(s) might be folded, so they don't contact where they should, or contact where they should not... Not sure it can be fixed if the pins are too much damaged.