That voltage is correct coming out of the filter - no need to change that. It’s honestly pretty uncommon to see any burning on a faulty control. Here’s a basic suggestion anyhow: Do you hear a ‘click’ on the main control when you plug the unit in? There is a relay that basically holds that voltage ready and sends power to the display when you press the ‘power’ button. If that malfunctions - you will get no response when you press any button. If you don’t hear that holding relay ‘click’ - I would change the control. Especially if that board is receiving voltage from the filter. There is a always the possibility that the power button(display board) itself is not functioning - but much, much, less likely.
It sounds like there could be some change that snuck into one of the baffles inside the drum? If it was a mechanical issue with rollers/pulley, it’d be consistent on every turn. They’re not very easy to disassemble in these. But you can tell either way by turning the drum by hand very slowly. Good luck! Update (11/26/2018): On second thought for disassembly - you may be able to get to the screws on these from the outside of the drum with the top off. Some of the screws may be hidden under some of the black mastic pads there. Worth a look though if that’s what it is.
If you changed the dampeners, that should have corrected any support issues for the whole outer tub. Top spring issues are extremely rare. The first thing I would check for a whining sound/balance issue would be the rotor in the back. Looking at the washer from behind the back panel - there is one bolt in the center that holds the rotor in place. This can back out slightly from torque over time, and needs to be wrench and hammer/impact drill tight. If that isn’t it - you’re looking at bearing issues, most likely.
Don't go with the control board on this! It seems like that is what it should be, but in most cases - replacing the wash motor is actually the answer. Especially in the cases where the dishwasher fills, soap dispenser opens, etc... For whatever reason - Whirlpool did not include any type of motor feedback circuit on these models. The motor has a weak/poor internal connection, and is not running when it is under a load(i.e. - full of water). Because there is no feedback circuit - the control board is still sending the voltage down, and 'thinks' that the wash motor is running. It will go through all of the other cycle functions normally, but you will obviously have dirty dishes at the end of the cycle. These cycles go for 3+ hours too - The part that I am recommending in this case is called the 'Sump & Motor Assy'. You will also need a complete model number when you find this part! You are missing the final digit in the model number provided. Open the door and look inside at the edge of the tub on the right...
If you were able to get it into the diagnostic mode, and that 'Start/Resume' still did not light - you have a burned out LED. Depending on the model, this can only be fixed by replacing either the control panel or the control board. Repairclinic.com should be able to help with finding that information as well based on your model number. I see this in a lot of cases where the light is burned out - but the button still works correctly. This is an expensive cosmetic repair if it is still working! Good luck -
- The screech during agitation on this model generally comes from either a load that is too heavy, or the shocks needing to be replaced. GE uses a metal rod to hold the tub in place during shipping. The bracket for this is on the bottom of the tub, and will rub against the metal base of the washer. - Another possibility is that the hub nut(that secures the spin basket to the drive shaft) underneath the agitator & hub cover has come loose. If this has happened - the drum will rotate off center(loosely), and is probably scraping against the old soap buildup that is most likely caked on your outer tub. Old soap always shows up as a brown, oily residue when wet - and brown flakes when dry.
- Before you test the ice maker - make sure you have sufficient water pressure, and that the fill tube to the ice maker is not frozen over like the above response says. - If it is frozen over, I would suggest again checking the water pressure - but changing the water valve either way. This unit is about the age where the valve can start to drip, also causing it to freeze. - If you DO NOT have a frozen fill tube, test cycle the ice maker to see if it will fill. If you aren't handy with a multimeter, you can just hold your hand on the water valve in the back as the ice maker is cycling. You should hear a humming sound and feel a vibration on the valve for 4-7 seconds towards the end of the cycle. If the ice maker completes the cycle without calling for water - change your ice maker.
Here is a good place to start, Paula: Every microwave has its own internal fuse that will blow if there is a short on the microwave side. The best way to tell if the problem is the microwave or not, is to plug it into a different outlet that is on a different circuit. If the microwave powers on and heats - you definitely do not have a microwave problem.