I was born in New Jersey, grew up fixing cars and computers in North Carolina, graduated from NC State with a BS in Physics, and served as an IT Specialist in the US Army. Now i work at iFixit in SLO as DevOps Engineer.
Papa Hajek, I'm by no means the spray master, but i found some resources for you that seem to be consistent with the (little bit of) spraying i've done: http://www.fujispray.com/orange-peel-help/ http://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/finishing/502818-orange-peel-can-leave-you-feeling-bitter Also this forum post seems to cover thinning down poly pretty thoroughly: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Th... Best of luck
David, There is a software setting in the phone to force it into "Charge Only" mode. Maybe it is stuck in that mode? My old droid phone would ask when it was plugged in. Does yours prompt you at all when you plug it in to a computer? If not, then it's probably the port on the phone is bent out of shape and not getting a good connection. I personally think the micro-usb jacks aren't very well designed. Probably would need to replace the daughterboard or resolder on a new female connector. Instructions for that here. Best of luck
Anders, It sounds like the temperature control is the problem. Try disassembling and looking for bad, burned, or leaking components by visual inspection. If there are any bad capacitor you might be able to find them by looking for leaks. Otherwise, i would suspect the entire temperature control circuit. It's possible the sensor itself failed. These are usually a simple thermistor and easy to replace. Not sure about your model, but if you post some pictures maybe we can help better. Best of luck
Maurice, Based on some quick googling, it seems like the Mazda 6s have several known transmission issues. The quick and easy ones are the park switch, transmission mounts, and burning up transmission fluid. Unfortunately, it doesn't sound like any of those explain your problems. Probably the most efficient fix would be to find a used transmission for a swap out. Best of luck
mrchief, Just because it works again after a capacitor replacement does not mean the magnetron isn't failing. It could possibly be that the magnetron is burned out bad enough that you are over-driving the capacitor to blow out. There should be more than one cap in the power circuit for the magnetron driver circuit. It's a turned circuit, so check out an iductor loops in there as well for visible damage to their insulations. Even with a schematic and some thorough circuit testing, finding an impedance/reactance mismatch would be pretty difficult. Your hint might be that the cap is either getting overvolted, or draw much too much current. Hope that helps, best of luck
Michele, Fuel, air, and spark. Fuel: sounds good, and you've replaced most of the fuel system, but the carb (pretty simple plastic carbs on these) might have something gunking it up. Try soaking the carb (submerge the little plastic jet) and let it sit for a half hour or so. Soak up what is left with a rag and try a restart. Air: try starting with the air filter off. Don't run it for too long, but if it starts right up with it off, then you know there is some kind of restriction there. New filters are pretty cheap. Spark: Pull the plug out and reconnect to the plug cable. Hold it with channel locks or the likes and try and start it. You should be able to see a visible spark. If not, it could be the coil or stator, both of which are prone to failure. A few other tricks if none of the above helped: Starting fluid. A short (half second) shot down straight into the carb. If it turns over but dies again, try 2-3 more times. If nothing then, you're probably still having some fuel problems. If that's the case...
@alfa01, I think if you pop one open you might be surprised at how easy to repair that generation of circuit boards are. Especially vehicle pcbs as they have to be "rugged". The power caps and ICs are the likely culprits. Check the solder points underneath the pcb too (most pcbs of that era are through-hole). Look for the solder to be cracked away from the via. A crack will look like a clean ring around the entire joint. Heres an example off the wiki: soldering The other thing to look for is blown capacitors. The electrolytic will ooze out the bottom (the top if they're really bad) and you will see gunk around the base of the cap. The bigger they are, the more likely a suspect. Also, take some pictures and maybe we can help to trace out the obvious circuits to help narrow things down. Cheers
Kaye, As @jayeff said, it sounds like your router is not set in a way compatible with your laptop. Since you said your router was "new" then it might be an "AC" router and not set up to allow fallbacks to older types of wifi. Try going back into the router configuration and under wireless you should find a setting or dropbox that has "ac" in it. Try setting it to something like "b/g" or "n" or "b/g/n". The exact menu will be specific to your router. Also see if you can force the router to only use 2.4GHz frequency. This will force compatibility with your laptop if the laptop is an older model and cannot handle the newer wifi modes. Best of luck