ozarkana

Can I use an iphone 5 battery in a 5c?

I recently acquired a 3GS with a smashed case, but after seeing the cases are both the same, I swapped the logic board and...

My PowerBook AL 17" high res also has colored lines. Is it the inverter or the video cable which is bad? It works okay...

I'm having the same problem with my PowerBook Aluminum 17". I tried tapping on the top pf the LCD screen and it seems to...

Are vertical lines (dead pixels) in my LCD display caused by a bad CCFT tube or something within the LCD glass panes?

I noticed in the "keynote" that Jobs came across the same problem I have with my Touch .. using the browser (Safari) Flash...

My Mac has been acting weird. It shows multiple lines on the display. Sometimes moving it or jiggling the screen makes it...

My HTC was working fine, but I stopped using it for a month then tried turning it on, now it's stuck in a reboot loop. I have tried holding the volume button down and the power button to get into Android system options, but even when I select "restore all settings", it still won't reset and continues to be stuck in a loop. I noticed when doing this that the system screen says the phone is locked. Is this the reason I can't do a reset? How can I fix this?

I still haven't replaced the screen / Display on my Moto X 2nd gen. I'm now seeing entire phones (used on eBay) for as much as the cost of replacing it! Why even bother? I think the problem is that the displays are "OLED" not LCD. You have to replace the whole assembly. Older phones, like Apple 3g and gs, have two separate components .. the glass/digitizer, and the LCD. You can replace one or either for a much lower price. From now on, I will not buy OLED screen phones! Almost any phone with Dow Corning "Gorilla glass" will crack and break. The Apple 4 models were the worst because of cost but also the repair process. You have to completely disassemble the phone! I turn those repair jobs down... it can take hours of stressful micro surgery. Those screws are small!

I recently bought a Moto X 2nd gen with broken glass and ordered just the replacement glass thinking I could repair it myself. As it turns out, the phone comes apart easily, but trying to replace the glass on my AT&T model was impossible. The glass is glued directly to the touch screen. So I returned it and ordered the whole assembly. It costs around $110. I think I will still have to use the old plastic "bezel" and hope I canget the glue strips to work as they hold it all together. If you get a whole assembly, I'd recommend spending a little more to get the whole assembly including the bezel and metal screen for the back. Realistically, paying $150 for someone else to do the job is not a bad idea. My total cost, including buying a walnut back, comes out to over $250. You can buy a complete phone for less than that on eBay with a plain back. Make sure you order the right assembly for your specific model or phone carrier. There is a difference!

I just attempted to replace the screen glass only, but I discovered that on the AT&T model XT1097, the glass is attached to the LCD, digitizer assembly and is almost impossible to remove. Looks like I will have to buy the whole assembly. YouTube videos showing the process don't mention that the assemblies differ.. Be sure to get the correct model number's part.

I tried to have a #3 connector assembly (which you CAN buy) replaced but it was an impossible job even for a good technician. You might try sliding a small non-conductive shim under the #3 cable to add upward pressure to the cable .. it might work. Worst case scenario .. just use the speakerphone.. somehow the sound carries through the phone and up to the earpiece. Hey.. it works!

Attaching the #3 cable on either the 3g or 3gs is a tricky thing.. many times leading to no ear piece sound. One solution I heard (but still haven't had luck with ) is to readjust the cable several times in slightly different positions before clamping down the retainer clip. As you can see, the contact points on the #3 ribbon cable are very small and they need to line up just right with the connector pins to work. Replacing the whole proximity sensor cable is an option but it doesn't always solve this problem. I have two 3g's that I have to use in "speaker phone" mode to work, but the strange thing is, I can hear through the earpiece at the same time! If you can't get it to work (ear piece speaker) just do the speaker phone trick.

Mikall.. you are right. It should be 616-0435, but iFixit shows 0431! Better correct that. My question is why does it matter? Some forums show that it also depends on the iOS version! What is the right battery for 3G and 3GS?

I have had this problem with a CD with a stick-on label. Answer:stick your finger nail into the CD slot and pry the case up gently at the same time you hit the "eject" button or command- E. Works for me!

By the way, I build bicycles too!

I used a guitar pick and my thumbnail to detach the plastic. Then I used a hair dryer gun at low temp carefully to loosen the glue (which is actually only at the top and bottom of the phone. Just be cautious removing the back since you need to detach the ribbon cable from the flash. Once it was removed, I used the case opener tool to gently lift the flash assembly loose, leaving the grey adhesive on the case back. After the flash was removed,I used an Xacto blade to start to remove the adhesive which peeled off relatively easily, and was then stuck back on to the flash. There is a clear silicon type of "gasket" on the case back that will also peel off easily, so I transferred that to my new case back and stuck the flash in its place. The lens cover was the same.. just a little adhesive on the outer ring. I just put some pressure with my finger on the front side, and it popped out, adhesive still intact. Everything checked out, so I snapped it all together again! Easy Peasy!

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

The original iPhone model had an aluminum case. The 3 and 3gs were plastic. The 4's went to a glass and aluminum frame. The 5 appears to me to be more steel than aluminum. The problem I saw with the 5 is a lack of seals like the 3's which meant oxidation will form around the edges (corrosion).

A friend spilled some Sangria on his iPhone 5c, and now the earpiece speaker doesn't work. I recommended swabbing it with a Q Tip and a sparse amount of Windex, but if that doesn't work I'm looking at replacing the earpiece. I do have a question on this though... could the spill have messed up the proximity sensor or the controlling chip for it? He is under warranty but I don't think Apple will replace it because it was a spill.

There is a much easier way to fix a "dead" power switch without taking the iPhone apart ... much! See the video, and my comments here:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDNRic3Ht...

Okay, I replaced the Lightning dock, and it wasn't easy, but if you go slow and start with the headphone jack and the microphone first, then work your way to the Lightning dock, making SURE it's properly seated! then on to the speaker and power cables, it's not too bad. I did have a problem with the case closing properly. I think it was the Lightning dock or headphone jack that wasn't completely seated down. I readjusted it and tightened the screws but the LCD assembly was still not quite seated properly.

When I powered it up I got a message saying the USB device was drawing too much power and to disconnect it! I think the logic board is fried. Anybody have ideas on this? I plan to return it under my 30 day warranty if I can't get it working.

The removal of the rubber boot IS mentioned in step 31!

That's true... no need to remove the MLB. The cable slides out easily.