There are several adaptors at Ebay or Amazon for around 10-20 Euros. I'm using a sintech adaptor to use a normal M.2-NVMe SSD (Samsung Evo 970 Plus) in my 2019 iMac. No problems at all. For Samsung SSDs, be sure, you have the very latest firmware on your SSD installed (i'd used a Windows laptop and an external enclosure for updating the firmware) and you will need at least macOS High Sierra to support NVMe-SSDs. For frequent firmware updates, i have a bootstick with Bootcamp/Windows, because absolutely no manufacturer supports firmware upgrades via macOS and only Crucial(Micron) is providing a Linux based upgrade volume.
There is not enough space for a 3.5" hard drive, so it must be a 2.5" model. these drives have not arrived the customer market yet, but are available for manufactors since a few weeks
@Josse It would be great, if you would pay the 60-70$ extra fee for the name "Apple" - that would make a small sense - but you didn't even that. In my Mini was "Hynix" branded RAM installed and i replaced it with RAM from Samsung (harrharr, take this, apple!). In other (older) Minis i've found RAM from Transcend or Crucial. Apple bought what they can get for low prices. An 70$ extra fee for less than 5 mins of work (not mentioned that apple don't have to pay 30$ for 2x4GB of RAM) i would only pay, if i knew that the money is directly given to the workers in Taiwan who build my Mac Mini. ;o) @Nejk Since Apple uses the Intel x86-Plattform for their Macs, you can install every "PC related" RAM modules. You only have to look at the specs. For the model "late 2012" you should only use DDR3-1600 (aka PC 12800), because the processor is able to handle RAM at that speed. With older DDR3-1333 (or less) modules you will get a significant lower performance.
@Mike, i've heard of some people with five thumbs on every hand and they screwed up the memory upgrade on a mac mini - but if you have a healthy hand-eye-coordination and hande your mini with the needed care, your waranty is not in danger There is not even a tool needed. Just open your mini and change the RAM. It doesn't take a single minute. the RAM modules apple is using are the same modules you can buy at amazon or any other dealer - rember, it's all the same intel platform and the memory controller is embedded into the i5/i7 processor - thats why every DDR3 RAM will perfectly work in your mac mini there are no faster (lower latency) DDR3-1600 modules available as you can buy on free market, not even for apple so do you a favor: save up to 230$ and upgrade the RAM yourself use the money to buy your mini with a fusion drive - this can also be done by yourself (a singe 128GB SSD costs not more than 100$ - instead of 250$ if you buy a fusion drive) but the upgrade and hard disk preparation is quite more...
The Intel HD4000 isn't soldered onto the logic board. ;-) It's an embedded part of the sandy bridge chipset. But that changes nothing about the non existing upgradeablity. On the other hand - the HD4000 is a quite potent graphics solution. Some tests shows that even crysis will run on appropriate framerates. I do personally play games like torchlight, diablo 3 and world of warcraft and these will run very smoothly without raising the system fan to the limits. Absolutely no comparison to the older HD3000 in my MBA.
The Fusion-Drive and the SSD only versions might have the necessary connector soldered onto the board. At the photo, you will see the screw hole for mounting a Blade SSD.
I don't understand, why it only achieved a 2/10. In my opinion, the device should be a 5 or 6.
I repaired dozens of iPad Air 1 an i never had the feel that i could damage anything while removing the front glass / digitizer. Of course, it will take some time and lots of patience, but if you are working clean and carefully, there is not much of a chance for damaged parts.
Also i doesn't care about a non destructive battery removal. If i'm in need do remove the battery, then because i'm about to replace it. It doesn't matter, if the old battery will be damaged in this process.
To be honest. The batteries lasts very long. I have an iPad 4 and an iPad Air 1 by myself from almost day one. They will be used on a daily basis and their batteries are still very fine. The same for my "customer's" iPads. Roughly 9 out of 10 iPad repairs i did, are screen or digitizer replacements, sometimes a camera or the Lightning port is broken, but i never had an iPad with a dead battery on my desk.
The Fusion-Drive and the SSD only versions might have the necessary connector soldered onto the board. At the photo, you will see the screw hole for mounting a Blade SSD.
I don't understand, why it only achieved a 2/10. In my opinion, the device should be a 5 or 6.
I repaired dozens of iPad Air 1 an i never had the feel that i could damage anything while removing the front glass / digitizer. Of course, it will take some time and lots of patience, but if you are working clean and carefully, there is not much of a chance for damaged parts.
Also i doesn't care about a non destructive battery removal. If i'm in need do remove the battery, then because i'm about to replace it. It doesn't matter, if the old battery will be damaged in this process.
To be honest. The batteries lasts very long. I have an iPad 4 and an iPad Air 1 by myself from almost day one. They will be used on a daily basis and their batteries are still very fine. The same for my "customer's" iPads. Roughly 9 out of 10 iPad repairs i did, are screen or digitizer replacements, sometimes a camera or the Lightning port is broken, but i never had an iPad with a dead battery on my desk.