Alright, final stretch! Here's what to do now: (1) Remove the 010101 backup file from /gm9/out/ . Store it somewhere safe. (2) Download GodMode9 from here. (3) Copy GodMode9.firm to the root of your SD card and rename it to boot.firm (4) Copy the /gm9/ folder to the root of your SD card. Overwrite files if it asks. (5) Eject the SD card and reinsert it into your 3DS (6) Insert the flashcart and boot from it (START + SELECT + X + magnet) (7) If done correctly, you will have booted into GodMode9 (8) Press HOME, then select Scripts... > GM9Megascript > Restore Options > SysNAND Restore (full) (9) Select your NAND backup (10) Press A to unlock SysNAND (lvl3) writing, then input the keycombo given (11) When the script finishes, press A to continue (12) Press B to return to the main menu, then select Exit. Relock write permissions if it asks (13) Hold R and press START to poweroff (14) Insert your SD card back into your computer (15) Download Luma3DS from here. (16) Copy boot.firm and boot.3dsx to the root of...

Unfortunately, there's not much to be done in terms of performance. Luma does have some options to help it, but those are exclusive to the New models. Did you happen to upgrade the SD card recently? Bigger cards come with longer boot times. As for the game card issues, try this: Grab a card, load the pins up with a bunch of isopropyl alcohol, and push it in and out of the slot several times to clean any dirty card slot pins. Now, further reading: 3ds.hacks.guide has modding instructions and basic info, but I assume you've been there already wiki.hacks.guide probably has everything most users would ever want to know, from random homebrews to SOAP transfers 3dbrew covers a more technical side of things, and starts getting into homebrew development (One more thing since koppie mentioned factory resetting. That might work, but it will of course shuffle the encryption key and render your SD contents unusable. That part can be worked around though)

Welp, I just found out the wiki already has a guide on this: https://wiki.hacks.guide/wiki/3DS:Movabl... Two questions for you: 1: Is there anything on the new console that you care about? 2: Are you set on having a stock console after this is done? If the answer to both of those is no, you can simply follow that guide and keep the CFW. Otherwise, we'll need to use ninfs to merge your data to the new console, then rebuild title.db. I should be able to get the specific steps for that option in a few hours, but assuming you still want to uninstall later, step 1 would be as follows: (1) Back up any files you may care about, particularly the Nintendo 3DS folder (2) Delete all titles you did not install from the eShop, including FBI, Anemone, FTPD, etc. (Keep gm9, we still need that) (3) Format the console through System Settings (4) Do not install any CIAs/illegitimate titles from this point forward. Everything we need will be done through gm9 and possibly HBL The purpose of doing this now is to clear any...

RTCBug it is! The fix is pretty simple: (1) Power off the console (2) Take out any game cartridge, but leave the SD card in (2.1) The cartridge is unrelated to this issue, but could also cause issues with booting if it's not being read correctly (3) Power on the console (4) Leave the console open and powered on for 10-15 minutes. Do not touch the console during this time If it boots by then, you're all set and shouldn't have to worry about this again. (P.S. If you're a nerd like me who wants to know why and how this happens, you can find more info here: https://wiki.hacks.guide/wiki/3DS:RTC_bl...)

Here ya go: https://www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Button-Nintendo-Controller-Buttons/dp/B07BGX533Y/ref=ci_mcx_mr_mp_m...-2889802-1985755?pd_rd_w=oA2g4&content-id=amzn1.sym.3f0e3e21-f41b-47ae-9a2b-6ccda06d59fd:amzn1.symc.27c848cf-47ab-487b-bd07-91bc659e0119&pf_rd_p=3f0e3e21-f41b-47ae-9a2b-6ccda06d59fd&pf_rd_r=2C8K37WQA7399KA2GP4...-780f-488c-80a8-d479273bf518&pd_rd_i=B07BGX533Y&psc=1 There are plenty of other sellers in the 'related' section, so pick your favorite :)

This is easily the biggest design flaw with this console, the shoulder buttons love to break off and tear the copper pads out. Hold it up to your ear and give it a shake. Hear something rattling around inside? That's your L button. First step is to assess the damage. Take the motherboard out and look for the button mounting point. If all the pads are there, great! (also, you're very lucky). Just solder in a new button and you should be good. If you're not so lucky and some (or all) pads are gone, it gets trickier, and you'll have to scratch some of the solder mask off to make new contact points. You can do this right next to the pins, and solder directly to them, or pick a point further along the trace and connect it with some trace wire. The two side (ground) mounting points, though, provide most of the structural integrity and should be connected directly. The button is the same one used in other 3ds models + joycons, and can be found with a search like "3ds replacement shoulder buttons". As for tools,...

Well, that sucks. I'd try restoring a NAND backup first, otherwise a CTRTransfer should fix it.

You said you were using a forwarder, were you trying to connect to wifi in 3DS mode or DS mode? DS mode wifi slots are separate from 3ds slots, and have to be set up under Internet Settings -> Nintendo DS Connections. If that's not it, the problem's probably with the network itself. To check, we'll need another access point to connect to. If you have an android phone, you can host a hotspot over mobile data and connect to that. Windows also supports hosting access points, though you'll need ethernet for that to be helpful If things work normally using your hosted AP, there's some sort of problem with your regular wifi network.

So the switch works normally otherwise? Your best bet is probably calibrating the battery. You can find Nintendo's instructions for that right here. In case you're curious what battery calibration is, it essentially gives the device a better guess as to the battery percentage, since it doesn't have a way to directly measure the energy in it. Ifixit has a wiki on it here: Battery Calibration

Ifixit has a guide on removing stripped screws, so start there. As for the charging port, I'm not entirely sure what you mean by 'metal sleeve', but it sounds like you'll need to replace the port Replacing the port is pretty easy, but does require soldering. Take the motherboard out with this guide, desolder and remove the old port, and solder the new one into place