Allan Barr

I bought a iPhone screen reprogramer, battery reprogramer and home button reprogramer. My question is have you used one of...

If it works fine with the original battery but doesn't work with the aftermarket ones I would have to say the batteries you bought were probably not the best quality. I buy my batteries from fixez.com and I haven't had any problems with them. They even have the original to chip from texas instruments. It's what tells the battery health and percent of charge. It can have issues if you have a cheap battery.

All iPhones from believe the xs will show its not an original battery and battery health won't show either. It doesn't matter if you try to vs1 it won't work. Apple did to discourage aftermarket repair so the customer will want to take it to an apple store. The last phone that will work is the iPhone X I believe or possibly the XR . Any older phones will work fine.

Look on YouTube. There are multiple videos showing how to change the volume switch. I would watch them all and pick the best one and keep the video on when you are repairing your phone. You can pause and make sure you are doing it correctly.

That is the only thing you need to replace but if you put it together and it Still has static sounds you will probably need to replace the earpiece speaker. And make sure that the battery is disconnected before you swap the screens. The battery should have been disconnected before the screens were disconnected, it can damage the phone if you don't.

I would test the tristar ic which a tristar tester. It's the chip that controls charging and data transfer. You could also check the charging port, make sure there is nothing in the port like lint. Check the connection on the battery and clean it with a qtip and alcohol. You could also look to see if you have capacitor or filter blown near the battery connection. You will need a magnifying glass or microscope to check that.

It sounds like you have a bad timing belt or chain. Unless you are a mechanically inclined person I would take it to a shop and have it checked. If it broke while you were driving and it's an interference engine you will have to have the head pulled off and new valves replaced with any bent ones and a new belt or chain and tensioner.

It could be a valve in the coolant hose, it could be a blend door actuator which lets in air from the heater core and the ac evaporator and moves it so certain amount of air comes in from one or the other so it's at the temperature you requested. I believe dodge had problems with the blend door actuator. I would look for technical services bulletins to if there was an issue with your vehicle.

The solenoid has nothing to do with it starting. It only allows the starter to work and you said the engine was cranking. I would check ALL OF YOUR FUSES. There are some inside of the cab and some under the hood. If all of the fuses are good I would hook up a scanner and see if it has any codes in it. It's a possibility that the ecm/pcm was damaged from hooking the battery wrong. It could also have damaged the ignition module. But lets start with the fuses first and the scanner. You can get a cheap on at autozone and you need to get one that will work with your vehicle. It's not an obd II vehicle and it uses the ford specific connector which is located under the hood on the firewall usually.

I would try a new screwdriver from a different company and look for a professional set. If that doesn't work and your screen is bad you can pry it open, it will destroy the screen but you should be able to get the screws out. I have run into screws being rounded out and tried torque head bits. And after it was partially out I had to use vise grips on the head of the screws. But I did have to destroy a couple of screens to get it open. No matter what you need to replace the screws with new ones.

It looks like it has corrosion on it. Disconnect the power and get a qtip and some rubbing alcohol and clean all of the stuff off. Wait for it to dry and test it.