This is a common issue on the L505D that happens from a capacitor breaking off of the motherboard. The easiest way to fix it is to replace the motherboard. This video shows how to actually repair the motherboard via soldering, but I don’t recommend anyone without much soldering experience to follow this guide. Unfortunately, the motherboards for the L505D, at present time, are rather rare and expensive, so I would simply replace the laptop as a whole.
Short answer: The motherboard is bad. I find that common on the L505D, unfortunately. Long answer: From what I’ve seen with these, the Toshiba L505D is affected by the good old lead-free solder failure issue that Xbox 360s and many computers have. I’ve saved at least one, if not two or more L505Ds following this reflow procedure with great results. But I’d only pursue this if you or someone you know has good experience with soldering. It’s important to note that a preheater, in my experience, helps the results to last much more than otherwise. If you don’t have one, I wouldn’t bother. Regardless, it is an older laptop, so I’d look into replacing it. If you’re looking for something inexpensive, there are many great refurbished laptops out there that can be had for less than a brand new one, and as far as data transfer goes, all you need is a SATA-to-USB adapter to plug your L505D’s HDD into your replacement laptop. It’s easy to get to the HDD on the L505D. Regardless of which method you choose, good luck!
My apologies for missing those! Hopefully one of us iFixit-ers will contribute to this guide later on, perhaps even me if I come across another 8560w, to correct what I missed.
I apologize for my waste of your time. However, if my guide was as terrible as you say, you could have contributed to the guide instead of leaving such a comment. It would have helped more people.
Regardless, I do agree with your point, and I do not know why I had stopped the guide this early. I usually go in-depth, and have even corrected others’ guides.
Most likely it will work, considering they are both of dm4-2000 series, however, I cannot say for sure. I would recommend looking at the pictures in the listing of the item, and comparing them with what you have.
I was able to do this repair on this exact model of laptop without dismantling the bottom half of the laptop. It’s not hard at all, all you’ve got to do is just separate the bezel from the lid of the laptop and pull it out from behind the base. It saves lots of trouble of dismantling. You can’t replace the hinges this way, though, but you can certainly replace the LCD itself without dismantling the bottom half of the laptop.
My apologies for missing those! Hopefully one of us iFixit-ers will contribute to this guide later on, perhaps even me if I come across another 8560w, to correct what I missed.
Thank you for providing your feedback.
I apologize for my waste of your time. However, if my guide was as terrible as you say, you could have contributed to the guide instead of leaving such a comment. It would have helped more people.
Regardless, I do agree with your point, and I do not know why I had stopped the guide this early. I usually go in-depth, and have even corrected others’ guides.
I will do better next time.
Most likely it will work, considering they are both of dm4-2000 series, however, I cannot say for sure. I would recommend looking at the pictures in the listing of the item, and comparing them with what you have.
I love the easy-to-fix design of these older Dell Latitudes!
I’m happy that my guide helped you!
I was able to do this repair on this exact model of laptop without dismantling the bottom half of the laptop. It’s not hard at all, all you’ve got to do is just separate the bezel from the lid of the laptop and pull it out from behind the base. It saves lots of trouble of dismantling. You can’t replace the hinges this way, though, but you can certainly replace the LCD itself without dismantling the bottom half of the laptop.