Joseph Hughes

Hello all, More of a technical question... I have an iPhone 6 with no touch. Before lifting cumulus I was poking around for v...

Hello all, So I received an iP 6plus the other day. Client brought it in for screen issues to another shop. It was powering o...

Hello all, I got an iphone 5s in that had non working touch. The guy said after flexing it / twissting it once it started to ...

I got a client's phone today that is not vibrating. It was previously jailbroken, and had the issue a few months after that. ...

So, I got an iPhone 6 today, running very oddly. I soft reset it and now it will not boot all the way. Stays on the apple log...

It is quite common if a phone is getting hot, that there is a short circuit causing the heat. This is also quite common after a device is dropped. Larger Capacitors are generally the culprit and i would suggest if you have taken your phone apart, take it apart again and try to locate if a certain area of the board is getting burning hot vs other parts of the board that are not. There are some great videos put together on youtube on how to detect a short on an iphone motherboard. Since you mention the heat, it is the first thing that pops to my mind. Do disconnect the camera flex and back camera like @thegsmsoluion suggested though, as a fault in those components will stop an iphone 8 from booting. FYI it will be common for the A11 chip (the cpu) to get hot while trying to boot as it is making all of its calculations and gets hot.

Have you changed out (or had someone else change out) C7771, the faulty tantalum capacitor that will cause kernel panics? This is a pretty common problem on this motherboard. I would check YouTube or some other resources explaining the process to change this component out and also to test it to see if it is bad. Basically, it will over time fail and cause a short circuit to ground causing an important power rail to not be present - thus your computer won't work. Best of luck and if you need more follow up help, shoot us a comment here! Happy repairing!

Hello Carlos! I just noticed this post. So, seems you are on the right track. There is some motherboard repair needed. In my honest opinion thought, I would focus on the charging circuit. This is a somewhat common problem that can be caused by many different reasons! Water damage, non-original chargers, bad batteries, power spikes, and a few other things. Firstly, I would check the ISL charging chip area for liquid damage/burnt out traces/ bad feed back resistors. This is very common and what would normally happen is this. There are 2 sets of feed back resistors that tell the ISL charging chip how much energy the Battery or DCIN side is using. The ISL chip talks to the SMC and says whats going on with the charging/usage power. If, for example, your battery side feed back resistors are having an issue (burnt up) the ISL charging chip will see some CRAZY number like your computer is using 238902 AMPs from the battery or something crazy like that. The SMC sees this, and tells the computer to EMERGENCY SHUT DOWN ...

Hey Christopher! I wanted to give you my first impression of what has happened. The most likely cause of this issue (seeing as you have replaced the dc in board) and that it runs off of the wall -with full fans with no battery - is that your Charging circuit is bad. Most likely it is one of the 4 feed back resistors near the ISL charging chip on the motherboard, or the ISL chip itself has failed. This is somewhat a common problem as a failure point. It is an intricate repair, but if you want to play with your macbook, its good stuff! TL/DR seems your motherboard has an issue in the charging circuit and needs to be repaired - micro soldering is required and it should be fixable for a decent price if you don’t want to do it. There are a few good videos out there on youtube explaining the technical aspects of it and showing how to actually preform the repairs. Best of luck and hope this helps! Happy repairing!

This problem is cause by a misalignment of the frontal microphone. On the front earphone grill, inside of the screen, there should be a sticker where the microphone sticks to. There is a hole off to one side (left in this case when the screen is open and in front of you) On the microphone, there are 2 holes on the ribbon cable. One hole is to align with a plastic pin, and the other hole is on the opposite side and center of the little metal box (microphone) That hole in the center needs to align with the hole in the sticker to let the sound through. Let me know if that helps! You can notice on my screen that there is a clear plastic over the sticker for the microphone that needs to be removed first for the microphone to stick. Also, do check if your microphone hole is blocked on the ribbon cable form the old sticker or dirt! Best of luck :) You got this!

I would like to see the screen shot after also! I haven't run into this issue yet, but would love to see if this is the solution incase I do see this problem.

This is becoming a common problem now. It is most likely the GPU Buck converter U8900 on the motherboard and is an issues with the tin solder used by the manufacturer separating from the chip due to heat stress over time. This is most likely a logic board issues and can be resolved if you have a very nice soldering iron and microscope. Take a look at this video for how to solve it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYLuJBNL... Hope this helps! Best of luck

I have had a screen come with a bad flex cable extension - but that is for iphone 6s and up. The iphone 6 has the separate panel on the light box that you generally transfer to the new screen. Is the old screen still operational at all? If so, put it back on with your home button and try it out. If your HB works, then its the replacement screen/Extension cable panel bit. Unfortunately, damaging the HB flex cable is a very common mistake made when swapping screens and can generally be avoided using some heat, alcohol, and non-sharp tools when working with it. If you have a microscope or magnifine glass, check out the flex cable too and see if you see any hard kinks, holes, tears or anything that makes it not look brand spankin new. If your not sure, upload some pictures for us to see and we will give you our 2 cents. Good luck!

Hello Uas! Just the other day I was fighting with this same problem... I installed Sierra fine on 2 computers before, but then it just stopped working with this error. It ended up being the installer was corrupt some how after downloading and installing a few times... I plugged my MBP into a lan for good internet, deleted my existing Sierra installer and downloaded a new copy. Remade my installer thumbdrive and it worked perfectly after that! Give that a try (again) and let us know if that worked for you! Good luck!

Sorry to say, but looks like you've been had... So, what going on here is- some reason, your LCD Backlight driver (little square chip above the bottom of the wire) was not receiving its correct signal from the GMUX (larger chip a little below with the silicone stuff around it) If I'm correct, that GMUX would send the signal strength to where the bottom component (resistor) your cable is attached to. That works in tune with your f1/f2 keys and tells the LCD Backlight driver how much to let through. What they did was connect it to a component that should have 3.3V when the screen is open (basically slamming down the gas pedal for backlight brightness) BUT that signal is also dependent on the GMUX... so it seems like your GMUX is having issues an they made a bandaid fix. Sorry about the trickery someone pulled on you and how you had to find out about it... That upsets me because it causes doubt for reputable repair shops alike... Best of luck! If you want it fixed, there are some local repair shops out there tha...