It could be a thermal fuse but I have never had that issue. what I have had happen many times is it will go dead like you describe, but its actually not dead. I think it has something to do with moisture getting in the connectors on the main circuit board and causing problems that way. I remove the module and spray down each connector with contact cleaner and reconnect everything and it works for a while after that.

I also remove the board for the touch sensors and make sure its completely dry.

The last time I did this I used a contact cleaner with protectant in it. its really just a very light oil that coats and displaces water on the contacts. after doing that the washer has been working flawlessly since. thats how a came up with the theory of moisture causing the issues.

There are high voltage caps in there but those are not the ones that fail normally. You’re looking for low voltage high capacitance caps that are the electrolytic type and they will be larger and looks like a barrel.

Hi Lindsey, I actually had that very thing happen about 6 months later so I made a new video for that issue as it involved the main motor. you can hit that hear.

https://youtu.be/oRSRw3qnxjo

If that receiver uses the same sound processing chip that mine did then you will most likely continue to see unstable performance from it. It's just a bad design. You can try and bake the board BUT since it sounds like you receiver works ok after its turned on you might just leave it on. Iddle current is not high on these so it's not like your waisting much electricity to just leave it on. You'd use more electricity trying to fix it with a board bake than just leaving it on. With that said if you are having other issues then it might be worth a try. Just remember that at the end of the day I was not able to actually fix the problem.

I considered buying some of the replacement chips just to see if I could repair it but I made such a mess of getting the old chip off that I decided against it. With the 5 piece min. I didn't want to spend the money on it rather than a new unit with updated processing. If somebody tries it please update this thread.

Hey Kaleb,. I missed you question but to get that cap out you'll just want to desolder it with a desoldering tool of some sort and pull it out. You could just heat the lead up and pull each side out individually but that's going to put more stress on the cap and is kinda messy.

That sounds about right, it seems that these chips are very unstable and you can get all sorts of strange problems from them. Mine would work for about a day or two after heating it and then it would start clicking in and out and then fail completely and would not come back. I assume Yamaha got a bad batch of chips and I have heard similar complaints about other brands as well. It's too bad TI didn't step up and pay for the repairs but that's how things go these days.

That's great news! And thanks for the detailed response. This is a method I have used for several computer systems that developed problems with their GPUs. I believe what is happening is that over time with the heating and cooling cycles the solder joints under the chips themselves develop faults and eventually stop conducting properly. Basically this baking process remelts the solder in the connections and allows proper contact to the GPU or CPU or whatever chip it is. So far this fix is working well for me so I hope you experience the same.