Steve Godun

The watch wasn’t dropped or submerged or anything radical like that. One day the watch was working fine, the next day it wasn...

I’ve replaced dozens and dozens of Samsung screens and have ONLY have a problem with the S5. I have one here with a broken sc...

Starting with a dead (battery discharged) LG Aristo 2: Plug it into a charger and no LED appears on the phone and the phone d...

Vintage monitor in need of a replacement power button (the actual switch, not the cosmetic button). Every Google result I loo...

Got a ZTE ZFive 2 in very good condition. The phone has never been opened up (security stickers over the screws still in plac...

Got the digitizer off and the back off. I need to remove the mobo for cleaning. I found and removed four screws and the camer...

Found a T40 that seems to work perfectly except for one tiny detail that I’m having a !&&* of a time figuring out: When you “...

Laptop is currently running BIOS F.03 and Windows 8.1. I downloaded the most current BIOS (F.42rA) available here: https://su...

Replaced the OEM 250GB hard drive with a 1TB Samsung 860 EVO SSD. Booted from a Win10 DVD and it saw the drive, formatted it,...

Got an iPhone 8 Plus that was run over by a car. Yeah, really. Screen is shattered but surprisingly still functional. Back gl...

The one marked just “Screen” comes as a “Part Only” or a “Fix Kit”. The “Part Only” includes (in addition to the screen) a pre-installed earpiece, bracket, front camera/flex cable assembly, and LCD backplate, which means the only thing you need to move over from your current screen is the home button. The “Fix Kit” includes all of that plus the tools you’d need to do the repair. The one marked “LCD and Digitizer” is just the screen. You will need to move the earpiece, bracket, front camera/flex cable assembly and LCD backplate over from your current screen, in addition to your home button. It does not include any tools. The easiest way is the “Screen” option but that might mean buying things you don’t need, and really it only removes about 5-10 minutes from the repair process if you’ve never done it before. If you already have the tools then you’re just paying for tools you don’t need. If your existing earpiece, flex cable, etc are good then you’re paying for parts that you don’t need.

Rice and similar home remedies don't work, and in fact often cause more harm. Right now you have Schrodinger's Phone; it's both broken and not-broken. Its destiny depends a bit on luck and a lot on what you do next. The PROPER thing to do is a COMPLETE disassembly, inspection, and cleaning of the motherboard. Reassemble using new ancillary parts (new charging port, new home flex cable, new rear camera, etc), install a new screen and battery, and hope for the best. The good news is if the phone turns on and functions properly after doing this, the odds are very high that there are no secret/unknown problems with the phone and it will likely have a normal lifespan. If you cut corners (e.g., just replace the screen) then you run the risk of allowing corrosion, contamination, or electrical issues to affect your phone in possibly strange and/or phone-damaging ways. A tiny bit of contamination or oxidation under the wrong part of a chip can be a phone-destroying issue.

Nope. This is like the home button on the iPhones; Apple puts in a hardware lock as a “security measure” (which, conveniently, only Apple can circumvent). If you want the screen replaced AND retain NFC functionality, you must pray at the Altar of Fruit.

Take it back to the person who replaced your screen and have them un-root it. Neither dropping the phone in water nor replacing the screen would root the phone. Rooting the phone is a conscious, purposeful act. Saying “the screen was replaced and now it’s rooted” is like saying “I painted my house and now the front door is locked”.

I think you will need to discover and correct whatever issue caused the components to blow in the first place, as well as trace out the whole path to verify that other components haven't also been damaged in a less-visible manner. Schematics: http://schemalaptop.blogspot.com/2016/11...-imac-a1419-27-inch-d8-mlb-free.html

There are no tricks to it. The adhesive that Apple uses for the back glass is INCREDIBLY aggressive. Without specialized tools and equipment, the “easiest” (note the quote-unquote) method is to freeze the housing with liquid nitrogen. This will turn the adhesive very brittle and allow you to scrape it off with comparatively less effort.

Since the cable for the front camera runs behind the battery, you can’t. See steps 8-9 in the teardown guide. iPhone X 拆解

You have one or more bad fonts installed and/or you have a font cache corruption issue. The latter is more likely. Download and run FontNuke; it’s the fastest way to clear out your font cache. https://www.jamapi.com/products/fontnuke...

Short answer, probably not. The drive would have to be formatted as GPT; if the donor Windows machine was a UFEI system then you MIGHT be able to boot from the drive. You can try connecting the drive to a USB adapter and seeing if the Mac will boot from it. If it shows up as a boot device then it's GPT. However, even if you can boot into it you'll need a Windows license key and Apple's Boot Camp drivers for the hardware. If your Mac is running OS X now that second part shouldn't be a problem; just run Boot Camp Assistant and make a USB drive with the drivers on it. Personally, I'd just swap the hard drives, reformat, install OS X, then use Boot Camp Assistant to make the smallest possible/practical OS X partition, then clean-install Windows onto the other partition. Least amount of question marks there.

Sounds like either the water pump (more likely) and/or the pressure fan (less likely) is shot. Here's a good video that explains how these work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfU6iV-REzE I would go with a dying pump motor. Take it apart, find the part number, locate it online, and replace.

I believe a revision needs to be made to this guide.

I have a Beats Studio headphone with a “v1.8” revision motherboard, and there is an additional wire in play. Look at the picture of the motherboard in step 14 of this guide. In the upper-right “corner” is one of the screw holes that holds the motherboard to the housing, and directly above it is a large round solder pad. On the v1.6 motherboard this pad is empty, but on the v1.8 motherboard there’s a single-conductor wire that goes from that pad to the very tip of the metal “spring band” that goes over your head while wearing the headphones. Yes, it’s soldered directly to that “spring band”. I suspect this is some kind of grounding wire.