I have owned my bread machine for almost 30 years and didn’t use it at all for over five years. I have used it at least twice a week every week for the last 4 years. The only way to find out is to try to use it.
Thank you for your clear and concise instructions. To my surprise when I accessed the belt it hadn’t broken nor was particularly loose. The bushing on the large wheel had seized up and was preventing the beater from turning. After removing the large wheel and the compression washer I put a drop of canola oil (edible) on the axle. Then I replaced the nut onto the axle and pushed the axle out of the bushing. A little bit of cleaning and a bit more canola oil and I replaced it back into the bushing. It turns easily now.
It wasn’t the many wire connections that were the most difficult to handle when reassembling the machine, but rather reseating (step 6) the top part which did not want to allow the black plastic to re-enter the hole. Eventually I used a screw that was a quarter inch longer (#7) to pull the baking pan up into position (and the cover down into position).
Over time the canola oil will congeal and present the same problem but canola oil is safe. And the bread maker works again! Thank you Mike.
After most of two weeks I reopened my MacBook Pro and reconnected the original battery. It ran for two days and then crashed, following which it vehemently refused to restart. After asking myself what had changed I disconnected the battery again and it started with the first attempt.
My MacBook Pro seems to need to be warm to restart properly. I will just keep it on all the time and if it crashes and is then reluctant to start up again I will just keep zapping the PRAM until it warms up. I am waiting to see if OS X v10.13 will run on my MacBook Pro before deciding what to do with it.
Please note that you might want to know the cycle count for your battery BEFORE you disconnect it. Go to About This Mac, select System Report, click on Hardware to expand it, click on Power, and near the top check what it says beside Cycle Count.
Thank you for the clear and concise instructions on how to remove the battery. I found that on my early 2011 - 17" MacBook Pro that the battery connector lifted upwards. I also noted that there was space for me to place the connector such that I could replace the lower cover and experiment with the MacBook Pro without actually removing the battery. I covered the connector with tape to avoid a short-circuit, closed the case and much to my delight the computer started again after zapping the PRAM several times. I did this because the touchpad shows no sign of weird behaviour, but if it had I would have removed the battery immediately. Now I can run the Apple Hardware Test and see what that says.
Thank you so very much for these instructions. On my 733 G4 the blue front panel had to be removed to allow the DVD drive to exit from the front of the machine. I also had to remove the fan to allow the wires to exit with the power supply.