I Echo Jompos strategy about not having to remove the LB. I would add that in order to loosen the “Fixation” of the LB, I removed all the screws attaching the board to the lower case. I also disconnected L & R speaker cables from LB. Used spudgers wedged on either side of LB to carefully raise LB enough to carefully slide battery flat cable out from under LB. Insertion of new battery flat cable under edge of LB was done with care and good lighting. Battery extracted with a silicon, rubber cake icing spreader. No liquids or floss used here.
Un reassembly, DONT OVERLOOK the placement of the “Board Flex Cable” from step 19. Make sure you don’t leave it imprisoned under this assembly. It needs to be lying over all this assembly.
I Concurr with Bonachera. I almost damaged the pins in the connector trying to twist it into position. The cable retainer holds it in tight and prevents the delicate maneuvering while reinserting the LCD cable. The pins are easily bent and broken. There is a delicate, grey, plastic thin frame holding all the pins neatly in place. After you have carefully reinserted and locked down the cable. then attach the cable retainer.
Used Metal spudger with thin edge- alternating wedge action in between male & female pulling male to the left carefully. alternate pulling top them bottom.
What happened to the very concise step by step produced by iFixit for the 2016, 15” MBP touch Bar.? Why was it taken down?? This new video. while informative doesn’t compare to the multi step picture guide that was removed. Can someone answer this?
I took a short piece of scotch tape and “bundled” the 3 cables together. I kept The screw loop out of the taped bundle. I was able to push the bundle thru the hole including the loop. Using tweezers helped grab the bunch and pull them thru.
This smaller connector cable of the touch ID sensor that sits underneath the power sensor connector is easy to overlook when replacing the logic board. It is small & short and can easily hide. Make sure you account for it when placing the LB in and before screwing it down.
Anybody know the screen part# or where to find it?
I Echo Jompos strategy about not having to remove the LB. I would add that in order to loosen the “Fixation” of the LB, I removed all the screws attaching the board to the lower case. I also disconnected L & R speaker cables from LB. Used spudgers wedged on either side of LB to carefully raise LB enough to carefully slide battery flat cable out from under LB. Insertion of new battery flat cable under edge of LB was done with care and good lighting. Battery extracted with a silicon, rubber cake icing spreader. No liquids or floss used here.
Un reassembly, DONT OVERLOOK the placement of the “Board Flex Cable” from step 19. Make sure you don’t leave it imprisoned under this assembly. It needs to be lying over all this assembly.
I Concurr with Bonachera. I almost damaged the pins in the connector trying to twist it into position. The cable retainer holds it in tight and prevents the delicate maneuvering while reinserting the LCD cable. The pins are easily bent and broken. There is a delicate, grey, plastic thin frame holding all the pins neatly in place. After you have carefully reinserted and locked down the cable. then attach the cable retainer.
A head lamp has become an indispensable tool in my laptop repair business.
Used Metal spudger with thin edge- alternating wedge action in between male & female pulling male to the left carefully. alternate pulling top them bottom.
What happened to the very concise step by step produced by iFixit for the 2016, 15” MBP touch Bar.? Why was it taken down?? This new video. while informative doesn’t compare to the multi step picture guide that was removed. Can someone answer this?
I took a short piece of scotch tape and “bundled” the 3 cables together. I kept The screw loop out of the taped bundle. I was able to push the bundle thru the hole including the loop. Using tweezers helped grab the bunch and pull them thru.
Do not pull from the cables end. you will risk separating thin cables from connector head. Use spudger tip to push it out.
This smaller connector cable of the touch ID sensor that sits underneath the power sensor connector is easy to overlook when replacing the logic board. It is small & short and can easily hide. Make sure you account for it when placing the LB in and before screwing it down.
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