简介
Seit vor vier Jahren Oculus ein VR-Headset ankündigte, hat iFixit die beiden Entwicklerversionen erfolgreich auseinander und wieder zusammen gebaut.
Nun haben wir endlich die Consumerversion zum Teardown bekommen und können euch verraten was gleich blieb und was sich geändert hat.
Schnappt euch euer Werkzeug und kommt mit uns an die Werkbank: Wir bauen das Oculus Rift auseinander
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视频概述
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Wir haben bereits das DK1 und das DK2 auseinandergebaut und sind nun gespannt was das CV1 kann. Die Spezifikationen soweit:
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Zwei OLED Displays mit einer Auflösung von ingesamt 2160 x 1200
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Bildwiederholrate von 90 Hz
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Beschleunigungssensor, Gyroscope und Magnetometer
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360° Headset-Tracking mit der Constellation Infrarot Kamera
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Horizontales Blickfeld von mehr als 100º
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Um die VR-Erfahrung zu verbessern, wurde das Tracking der Kopfbewegung verbessert.
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Dies geschieht anhand von Infrarot(IR) LEDs die am Headset angebracht sind. Mit bloßem Auge nicht zu sehen, fängt die Infrarotkamera "Constellation" die Bewegungen des Nutzers ein.
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Selbst wenn du den Kopf drehst, können die Bewegungen verfolgt werden, denn auch auf der Rückseite befinden sich IR LEDs. Theoretisch kann man sich also beliebig oft drehen, ohne dass es Probleme gibt - sofern man nicht über das Kabel stolpert.
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Das CV1 ist definitiv die bisher schickste Ausführung. Sie ist leicht, beeindruckend komfortabel und hat die Kopfhörer direkt eingebaut.
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Ein dicker Rahmen aus Schaumstoff soll den Effekt des Oculus Face minimieren. Praktischerweise wird der Rahmen einfach angesteckt.
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Dank weniger Schrauben ist das Headset leichter!
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Wenn der Schaumstoffrahmen abgebaut ist, kann das einzelne Kabel vom Display ausgesteckt werden.
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Die Kabelführung hat sich mit jeder Generation der Rift (DK1 und DK2) deutlich verbessert.
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Die verstellbaren Kopfhörer sind einfach abzubauen.
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Der Kopfhörerbügel ist mit einer eingefassten Flachkopfmutter befestigt und Federkontakte stellen die Verbindung zum Stirnband her.
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Wir haben schon eine Menge unreparierbare und nahezu nicht auseinandernehmbare Kopfhörer gesehen, sodass uns diese hier positiv überrascht haben.
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Insbesondere vor dem Hintergrund, dass diese kleinen Jungs beliebte Zielscheiben für Schäden sind. Können sie bei heftigen PvP Kämpfen doch allzu leicht zu Boden "fallen".
I agree that more detailed teardown of the headphones themselves would be nice. I still wonder if they are made by KOSS or someone else.
Hey, thanks! Totally missed that screw in the inside of the headphone connection
This one picture just saved me from replacing my headset due to a failed earpiece. Turns out, after a year of passing the headset around for Beat Saber, we managed to unscrew one. That side felt a smidge loose, and then the sound went out. We assumed a bad wire, but we just needed to line the pegs up and tighten the flathead cover on the inside of the band. Thanks guys!
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Außerdem hat der Rahmen einen Befestigungspunkt für das Kopfband.
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Und wie bekommt man das jetzt auf? Wir stutzen einen Moment bis unser Teardown Profi die versteckten Clips auf der Innenseite entdeckt und sie mit ein paar wenigen Klicks löst.
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Damit können wir die Maske abnehmen und den ersten Blick ins Innenleben werfen.
Guys this is the hardest part and you just forgot to explain it. Here is a link to the mask: http://imgur.com/lDhwvfV Note the 3 interior clips. Here is another image where it clips in: http://imgur.com/VJaI52O I recommend starting with the ones on the bottom.
Zsolt - how did you get the clips off from around the lenses? Did you have to do it from over the cloth?
Please be specific how you removed the bottom 4 screws. The T3 bit and driver are not enough. It keeps occurring like the heads will strip. Hope you can take time to provide support for this!
For anyone that gets stuck here, there are six T3 Torx screws (4 bottom, 2 top), clips around the outside of the mask that are pretty easy with a spudger, and then three clips per eyepiece/lens as pictured in Zsolts’s post above. I couldn’t get the eyepiece clips started by prying around the lenses so I ended up prying the mask open as much as possible at the top and getting the top ones nearest to the nose open with the small pointy end of the spudger. After that I was able to get the rest from the gap made around the lenses from releasing that first clip for each.
I wish you all the best of luck with your projects, but as stated in the banner at the top of this page: this is not a guide. iFixit teardowns are meant to be a first look at the hardware and overall repairability, and should not be used as instructions.
I spent over an hour trying to remove the %#*@ cowl. Turns out, I had to apply a LOT more pressure than I thought would be necessary. No, I have not broken anything but make sure to use plastic tools (spudgers) I had to pry my thumb between the cowl and the main housing in the lower right hand side up first as it turned out to be the easier side, to reveal the cowl’s clip that’s over and around the lens. After popping that one off, I did the same to the left. Now, at that point, run your thumb/finger over the cloth and along the ring where the other two clips are latches around the lens. Now, after running your finger across it, part of the ring should separate thus allowing you to use that as leverage to wiggle the other two clips free.
Couple comments based on previous posts: 1) “The T3 bit and driver are not enough. It keeps occurring like the heads will strip” - I ran into the same things where it felt like I was stripping the screw, ended up using a T4 bit instead and it fit perfectly, 2) The clips around the lens as pictured in the 2nd post from Zsolt were super helpful, once I knew where the clips were used a 0.46mm guitar pick to wedge in-between the lens and cover to unfasten and the cover came of easily.
Comments on Paul Not Bunyan's post. Confirmed T4 bit. I originally thought I needed a longer T4 bit, but the iFixit bit worked fine. The T4 screws near the nose were difficult, but let the plastic housing of the kato mask guide your bit to the head of the T4. On the subject of the kato mask clips: start on the left lens without the IPD slider. Once you have bottom lens clip unfastened, run your plastic spudger on the inside of the clip on either side of the lens to free the other two clips. Indeed, the cover came off easily once you figure out the puzzle. Thanks Paul Not Bunyan!
I had an easier time with the clips by adjusting the IPD to the maximum and then going in for the center nose bridge clips because of the extra room, as then I could simply wiggle the other two clips off each lens with the extra slack. This might be harder if your tool is rounder or larger. Definitely not much force needed.
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Der DK2 Prototyp nutzte ein einzelnes 1080p Display des Samsung Galaxy Note 3. Dieses mal jedoch gibt es was anderes...
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Anstatt eines Smartphone Displays, hat Oculus gleich zwei eingebaut, die direkt auf die Linse montiert wurden. Scharfgestellt werden diese über den Schieberegler unten rechts am Gerät.
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Bis zur Veröffentlichung des eyePhone werden wir uns damit begnügen müssen.
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Was ist das? Es scheint ein Sensor für Umgebungshelligkeit zu sein. Vermutlich um zu prüfen ob das Rift getragen wird oder um die Display Helligkeit anzupassen.
This little Sensor is a proximity Sensor. It is used to detect if the User wears the Glasses. If the Oculus Software isn't opened yet, it will open automatically after some seconds. Its like the Sensor on your Smartphone which turns of the Display while calling sombody.
Timo Meyer - 回复
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Nach dem Entfernen des Gehäuses findet man noch einige Flachbandkabel. Der Durchhang der Kabel ermöglicht es, dass die Linsen genug Spiel haben, um eingestellt zu werden.
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Drei weitere Flachbandkabel sind auf der Innenseite des Gehäuses und verbinden die Steuereinheit mit den IR LEDs
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Hier sehen wir nun die Innereien des Rift
Is there a gap between the top housing and the ribbon cable? (i.e. would you be able to accidentally press down on the ribbon cable if you squeezed the housing? )
not to sound like a jerk but this is the least descriptive teardown of anything ever……..
The cowl took me over an hour to remove cause I was being very careful trying not to break any clips but a lot of force was required to get that SOB off. Now, I’m stuck trying to figure out how to remove this part! I wish someone would update this with a lot more pictures and a step by step video.
I’ve disassembled mine today, so I’ll add a few words to ease this step :)
NOTE: this can be done without force, there are no clips once you undo all screws.
Photos + instructions: https://imgur.com/a/9UAM737
1. 3 more torx T3/T4 screws marked in red (two holding front plate to the bottom wall, plus one holding the lens slider assembly)
2. 4 big X-screws holding the front plate in the corners, marked in green (only the biggest ones need to be unscrewed)
3. Tricky hidden top-center screw: DEEP directly on the front plate. Push the lenses to the sides first, or it won’t be accessible from the inside! Use a thin, long and well magnetized small cross screwdriver. The 2nd photo shows exactly where the screw was. With good lighting it should be visible from the inside with the lenses moved away.
4. Unclip the lens slider slider (3rd photo): insert a prying tool from the inside and it will pop out — do not lose the tiny springs!
5. Now the front plate should come off easily with some wiggling.
Thank you so much for this update! That made my life 1000x easier. I never would’ve found that hidden phillips deep between the lenses!
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Schauen wir uns zuerst die Verteilung der LEDs an.
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Diese fummeligen Kabel verbinden drei LED arrays: Oben, unten und hinten.
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Jede LED ist nummeriert und bei D8 bis D10 gibt es noch ein verstecktes Mikrofon.
Where is the "hidden" microphone?
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Oberhalb der Linsen befindet sich Motherboard mit den Chips.
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Toshiba TC358870XBG 4K HDMI to MIPI Dual-DSI Konverter
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Cypress Semiconductor CYUSB3304 USB 3.0 Hub Controller
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STMicroelectronics STM32F072VBARM Cortex-M0 32-bit RISC Core Microcontroller
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Winbond W25Q64FVZPIG 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory
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Nordic Semiconductor nRF51822 Bluetooth Smart and 2.4GHz proprietary SoC
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CMedia CM119BN USB Audio Controller
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Bosch Sensortec BMI055 6-axis Inertial Sensor
Hi, it's actually "MIPI", as in http://mipi.org/ , not "MIP". There's a typo in the headline of the linked press-release.
Yes it is a typo, MIPI instead of MIP. And here is the link to the Toshiba device:
"Nordic Semiconductor nRF51822", interesting... I assume that is a the RF link to the Clicker and (probably) Touch. If so, this is somewhat disappointing as it will mean that the touch controllers are only compatible with Oculus headset and can not be used separately or with another headset configuration.
Simon Wood - 回复
True - it seems like a proprietary 2.4GHz ref. FCC filing.
The left display on my headset stopped working and went completely dark. I am normally brave enough to open devices and fix them myself, but the hidden clips and fragile housing makes me worried I might make things worse. I'm not even sure if I can even fix the issue or if the display itself went bad.
Parts are not available for the Rift main assembly at all after the warranty period. Oculus does not offer a repair service or a replacement program. You will have to rely on someone selling a broken unit that has a working component you need, or buy an entire new kit. Post warranty support for the main unit is non-existent.
do you know what TE connector is used on this board?
I did 2 tear down on 2 different units bought a year apart.
The newer board does not have Winbond W25Q64FVIG 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory on it.
Newer board is 330-00030-03 REV A 2016. Where the chip was in now 4 square flat shapes of solder.
They remove it? Why?
Great info thx for the knowledge. I had an interesting discovery on one of my head sets.
I have 2 different headsets I bought a year apart. I tore both apart and discovered something missing on newer board.
The newer board does not have Winbond 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory on it. Newer board is marked with 330-00030-03 REV A 2016. Where the chip was is now in its place 4 square flat shapes of solder.
I am curious to why they removed the Flash Memory.
I did 2 tear down on 2 different units bought a year apart. The newer board does not have Winbond W25Q64FVIG 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory on it. Newer board is 330-00030-03 REV A 2016. Where the chip was in now 4 square flat shapes of solder.
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Motherboard IC Identifikation (2):
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STMicroelectronics VL53L1X time-of-flight Sensor (wahrscheinlich)
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STMicroelectronics BALF-NRF01D3 Bluetooth balun
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Texas Instruments Display Strommanagement
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ON Semiconductor CAT93C46B 1 Kb serial EEPROM
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STMicroelectronics M24C64-F 8 Kb serial EEPROM
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Texas Instruments TPS22908 load switch
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Ricoh R1202L721A Gleichstrom Aufwärtswandler
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Beim Auseinanderbauen kommen die Displays zum Vorschein!
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Die OLED Displays sind pro Stück 90 mm breit mit einer Dichte von ~456 ppi. Zum Vergleich haben die Displays des iPhone 6s Plus hat 401 ppi und das Galaxy S7 hatt knapp über 576 ppi.
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Bisher erkennt man die einzelnen Pixel also noch.
What is the sub-pixel structure of the display? Is it pentile as everyone expected, or is it RGB? And who's the manufacturer? Microscope shots of the display in action would have been great too.
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Während frühere Rift Kits noch mit austauschbaren runden Linsen kamen, nutzt das Rift CV1 eine einzelne asymmetrische Linse (rechts).
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Bei näherer Betrachtung der Linse des CV1 zeigen sich die konzentrischen Ringe, es handelt sich also um Fresnel Linse. Diese Linsen haben den selben Effekt wie die dickeren, gebogenen Linsen der früheren Rift Generationen, wiegen jedoch weit weniger.
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Mit den variierenden Größen und Formen hat es Oculus geschafft, die Linsen für diesen Anwendungsfall zu perfektionieren. Das Ergebnis der asymmetrischen Formen sollten also weniger Bildfehler sein.
What is the diameter of the lens? (I know its not round but in the widest part)
It's approximately 49.82mm. I had to measure a rubbing of the lens (pencil over paper) in order to cut lens protectors for them. I measured with a cheap digital caliper.
Nate -
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Warum sind die Linsen gebogen wenn Fresnel Linsen gegenüber gewöhnlichen Linsen das nicht sein müssen?
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Wie sich rausstellt, hat Oculus Hybrid Fresnel Linsen entwickelt.
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Diese Linsen bestehen aus konzentrischen Prismen mit gleicher Stärke. Jedoch sind diese Linsen mit einer leichten Krümmung geschliffen, was den optischen Fokus entlang der gesamten vertikalen Achse ermöglicht.
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Wir unterbrechen an dieser Stelle für eine kurze wissenschaftlich Erklärung.
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Es stellt sich die Frage wie die Linsen in einem VR-Headset tatsächlich funktionieren.
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Damit der Eindruck der virtuellen Realität nicht zu sehr anstrengt, müssen die Linsen zwei Aufgaben erfüllen: das Display so vergrößern, dass man die Ränder nicht mehr sehen kann und das Display am Punkt der optischen Unendlichkeit scharf stellen.
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Die Linsen des Rift führen also dazu, dass man den Einruck hat, auf ein unendlich weit entferntes Display zu schauen.
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Was steckt hinter den Linsen mit den beiden Displays? Ein super schicker, gefederter Zahnstangen-Mechanismus, um den Abstand zwischen den beiden Einheiten (Display + Linse) einzustellen.
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Die Verwendung von zwei Displays war ein erheblicher Fortschritt zwischen der Rift DK2 und dem Crescent Bay-Prototypen. Da sich dadurch jeweils eine Linse samt Display als ganzes bewegen kann, schafft die Rift eine 5-95%ige Abdeckung der Pupillendistanz.
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TL;DR: Jeder der Augen hat, kann die Rift vermutlich nutzen. Schön!
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Als nächstes kommt das LED Driverboard mit allen Beschriftungen, die man sich beim Auseinander- und wieder Zusammenbauen wünscht.
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Hier sehen wir die eben genannte, gut beschriftete Treiberplatine mit über einem Duzend Messstellen und der nötigen Steuerelektronik.
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3x Texas Instruments TLC59401 16-Channel LED Treiber mit "Dot Correction" und Graustufen PWM-Steuerung
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Auf der Rückseite sehen wir zwei recht große Kondensatoren, die benötigt werden, um die Lastspitzen auszugleichen, die durch das Pulsieren der vielen IR LEDs entstehen.
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Nachdem wir uns die Linsen und die Elektronik angeschaut haben, ist es nun an der Zeit das Stirnband auseinanderzubauen.
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Auf der Suche nach LEDs und der Verkabelung der Kopfhörer ziehen wir die FCC Sticker ab.
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Nachdem wir auch noch eine Lage aus Stoff abgezogen haben, finden wir ein schwarzes Flachbandkabel, das entlang der Innenseite zu den LEDs im hinteren Teil verläuft.
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Außerdem finden wir noch etwas Mechanik!
My right strap snapped off the Rift and broke the ribbon cable inside. So no speakers or back tracking LEDs. Any way to replace or solder it back together?
Same Problem , I am trying to repair the ribbon cable : fix both sides with glue on a thin sheet (piece of other ribbon cable) , scratch with a scalpell the black lack to expose the copper layer , and restore the connections soldering thin wires . After , seal evething with got glue .
I hope my skills are good enough …
lughi -
Did it work Lughi?, I have the same problem
Did it work? I have the same problem now.
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Oculus Rift CV1 Repairability Score: 7 von 10
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Die Kabelführung hat sich seit den Development Kits erheblich verbessert und die Stecker sind solide, was die Demontage einfacher gestaltet.
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Die Kopfhörer sind dank der Federverbindungen einfach zu entfernen.
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Der Rahmen ums Gesicht ist mit Plastikclips befestigt und einfach zu lösen.
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Das Rift zu öffnen ist aufgrund der versteckten Clips im Inneren eher schwierig.
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Es ist unmöglich, das Stirnband zu ersetzten ohne dabei durch den Stoff am Headset zu schneiden.
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Kompliziertes Design und zarte Kabel machen es schwer, die Linsen, Displays oder das Motherboard auszubauen.
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90条评论
best
teardown
ever!
Keep checking in to find out ;)
What about the rack and pinion system? The camera? The remote? The cable?
How about a teardown of the headphones!? Palmer Luckey demands it!
Josh Mills - 回复
Why is the video private?
The accelerometer and gyroscope are a single chip (the Bosch BMI055) located on the motherboard. It's highlighted in pink in the above photo. I'm not sure about the magnetometer.
For this application the MEMs are only used to track relative motion, and the camera system tracks absolute motion. Hence magnetometer is un-necessary. There is no magnetometer. BMI055 is the same MEMs used in GearVR CV1 (it gets away with not having a magnetometer by intermittently pulling from the phone's magnetometer to correct for orientation drift).
Robert -
Will you teardown the cable? Wondering if Spectra7 is still the chip. Thanks!!!
the TI 59I C6F3 are OLEDDisplay Power Supply. I dont find any info on these, but the coils and the fact that they are 2, (1 was in dk2) proves my point.
Bosch Sensortec IMU (gyro + accelerometer) BMI055
Thanks marcellinogemel! We've updated the teardown accordingly.
Teardown not complete, Cable and chips in cable still a mystery? Do ur job right or forget about it!!!
macman1519 - 回复
Dear iFixit team, please ignore that guy's rude remark. There are plenty of us here who respect your work who would in fact appreciate it if you did open the cables to see what kind of chips are inside.
Tester -
I need to know if the lenses can be rotated. I suffer from permanent torsional double vision and need to rotate the left lens to match my right eye for the picture to match up. This is the only thing stopping me from seeing in 3d.
Wouldnt it be easier to rotate the Image in software? Or am I just not understanding your condition?
John M -
Weird that Oculus didn't made a headphone jack to use your own headset with microphone.
The step 13 erroneously states that the stereoscopic display permanently focused at infinity relieves eyestrain. In fact fixed focus is a cause of eye strain due to an accommodation-vergence mismatch. In contrast an accommodative/ multifocal/ light field display or a retinal display would alleviate this cause of eye strain.
Jack Hayes - 回复
well… i can stay 8 hours with the vr headset on without feeling eyestrain, but if i spend a few hours looking at the computer screen (and i have a 42” one) my eyes get stuck into a close focus. if i want to drive after spending a few hours at the pc, i have to close one eye because i get double vision because of stuck close focus. doesnt happen with vr tho. and with smaller screens its even worse, thats why i got a 42” tv as a screen…
What about the timing controller? The displays are from samsung i guess?
It would be very interesting to see a teardown of the remote and the touch controllers as well! :)
Any idea of manufacturer and reference of the two display panels? Thanks
Well, you're not wrong but, neither is she :) http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionar...
The dictionary has this habit of changing the meanings or pronunciations of a words once the incorrect way becomes commonplace. The definition of literally has changed to “figuratively” because so many used it incorrectly. Fresnel lenses are named after french physicist Augustin J. Fresnel. Saying it without a silent “s” is mispronouncing the name of the man who invented them and that shouldn't really be up for debate.
TL;DR the dictionary is wrong. ;)
Virtual Reality SUCKS.. Occulus Rift is already outdated.. ( Yup they are just like you guys and missed the Memo). The best new thing is Augmented Reality. Check out the Augmented Reality here, http://www.cnet.com/videos/we-spent-90-m...
This is an extremely ignorant comment. VR and AR are not competitors, they serve different purposes. For gaming - where frequently you are trying to insert the player into an environment that doesn't exist - VR is required. AR can't put me in the cockpit of an F15 or a starship - VR can. Ideal would be an AR/VR hybrid...an AR headset that can become completely opaque and block out the real world if desired...can current AR devices do that?
Can we expect a further teardown at some point? Cable? Headphones? Etc...?
I don't like the lenses at all. Yes Fresnel lenses are cheaper to make than regular lenses, but they cause significant artifacts. The whole idea that you focus the lenses by moving the whole headset up and down on your head doesn't allow for focussing each eye separately either. All in all it seems like a massive compromise in quality for a small cost saving, and probably singlehandedly explains the comments in most reviews about blurriness.
I would like to know if the lenses have an anti reflective coating on the inside?
Eamon Ho -
Dimensions of the Fresnel lens would be amazing to know. Also the distances of the inner and outer surfaces from the display(s) and the eye. I think this is key to getting the eye focus correct. Are these similar to the ones on the Lenovo ANT VR Headset accessory? (Into which you insert your phone)
I'd like to see the cable busted open as well
Confirmed. It actually contains three S7 chips. See below:
Mackie Research performed an in-house teardown of the cables, which confirmed the inclusion of three of Spectra7's chips - two "VR 7050" and one "VR 7100."
Is this it? When do we get an actual teardown?
Step five is wrong. If you managed to just remove the frame "with a few well-placed flicks of the spudger" then you ripped the small hexagon screws out of their respective threads.
My first time using the ifixit site.
Need to get inside this thing for an on the job examination. I removed the cable and 6 T3 screws from the housing assembly, yet with all the prying I would DARE with 2 spudgers, I still cannot get "Kato's mask" to cleanly pull free from the headset housing. Also, the black fabric seems attached securely to the lenses. I'm stumped right here. Tried calling ifixit direct but could only leave a message.
Any ideas or advice? Thanks - Ernie@ECOTNY
Ernie -
Hi Ernie! This document wasn't intended to serve as instructions, but it sounds like you're in a bind—so, I checked with the tech writer who performed the CV1 teardown. According to him: "The first pic of step 5 shows the clips you've gotta declop—If i recall, it's kinda terrible. I think the trick is pulling up enough to see in there. Everything is pretty flexible." Not sure how much help that is, but good luck with your project! Eventually we hope to have a set of actual repair guides with instructions for the Rift CV1, sometime further down the road. Cheers!
@ernieaecot Did you end up getting the clips off the lenses? Trying to get them off without tearing the fabric seems to be very tricky
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
My unit came with the headband detached from the head mounted display. Particularly the left side. It leads mo to believe they sent me a returned product from previous customer, because my preorder came in sooner than August. I wish I could post photo because that would tell it all. I tried putting it back but it just breaks off. My problem is the 2 arms that holds the goggles that houses the chip, oled and etc, the left arm is detach and I am not sure if its designed this way. I know it allows some movement for adjustment. Please help.
Hola, buenas tardes, i spoke little english, since you opened it , ¿ they believe can break easily fall to the ground facing the oculus ? I say this because they fell and did not detect the pc
adrian rom - 回复
So after the tear down how would you get rid of the screen door effect?
Hi, Your work is great ! but just have a question is there a way to replace only the HDMI socket and would it work?
In my CV1 the pins in HDMI are bent and it results in seeing red dots and some lines mostly on the dark background.
I checked another cable and all is working fine so it is definitely either only the HDMI socket (most likely as I can see 2-3 bent pins) or the whole cable.
Thank You!
Hi, could you explain how the Headphones connect to allow the adjustable Straps? I have lost audio from the Left Speaker and can only get audio back if I loosen the Right side strap move it in or out!
Hey Terence, did you find a solution to your headphone issue? I'm having the same thing happen, now both don't work..
Jeremy -
Will be the flexible cable that runs through the head band. not much you can do about it. I have 7 Rifts here and only 1 is still working correctly. All under 12months old
Andy -
Do you have any info / insight on the components related to the IPD (inter pupillary distance) slider on the underside of the rift? I ask because it is linked with a digital, in-software readout that reports the current distance and that readout stopped working for me... was curious what kind of component linkage is going on with that slider... ? Didn't see any mention of this element of the Rift in the above article.
I was wondering the same as I seem to have the same problem with my Rift.
Its a small linear potentiometer. Left eye piece bracket moves the pot. possibly dropped out of the holder if it's been dropped. should be an easy fix
Andy -
I want to fix my oculus cv1
How could we contact?!
My oculus was dropped. the right lens has a line going through it. how would I fix it?
PK _Gaming - 回复
Is it possible to remove the lenses so I can clean the inside? I have moisture inside the lenses and it ruins the experience!! I need to know if I can just fix it or RMA.
Is it possible to teardown the rift so I can clean the inside of the lenses? I have moisture on the inside of the lenses which creates unbearable “god rays”. I’m not sure if I’m able to fix it or try to RMA?
It's probably not moisture.. Fresnel lenses just suck like that
Anyone been able to identify the flexible cable that seems to be failing on many of these devices under normal operation (stretching of the side straps to put on/off head) and breaking inbuilt Rift audio?
Mine just broke of course 2 months out of warranty and Oculus basically told me to go eat a d!ck and buy a new one.
Should be an option to replace these for those out of warranty
Would airbrushing the front affect the ir tracking
%#*@^@, still no solution for this known fail of the right earphone and the ribbon ?
where to find a replacement ribbon to fix this ?
net shaman - 回复
Hello,
I'm selling Oculus CV1 Parts, you can contact me by e-mail at: "totto99@gmx.de". I'm from Germany so be aware of shipping cost. Currently I offer a lot of parts, because i bought a broken one Just for a working Screen. Some interesting things might be:
- 1 left Lens
- 1 right Display + Lens Combo
- whole outer housing
- HDMI connection cable for PC
Ofcourse you can also buy ALL the remainings parts (everything execpt the left Screen).
I send you a email
Thanks for the info!!! My headset is starting to freeze. I got in touch with Oculus, they checked some logs, and said it is getting hot, and of course, it is out of warranty. Is there enough space on the cowl to drill little holes in it to get some air flow going?..OR if I cut some foam off the mask, would that do the same thing? Any help would be appreciated
a w e s o m e
Hello I have a HDMI to sell in parts as there is no replacement for mine. check ebay. If your looking for parts.
Thx for the tear down, it helped a lot.
Felipe Gar - 回复
Buenas, una consulta, ¿es posible cambiarle un sola pantalla, volviendo a poner al vacio con el lente???
Is it possible to change a single (only) screen? or are the two synchronized??
do you know if an oculus rift or htc vive replacement cable can fit inside hp vr1000-100?
The audio ribbon cable on my head strap broke. Is there anyway I can fix it to make my OEM headphones work? Can’t I just overlap the two ends and tape it down?
The headband can be removed, but you have to cut the fabric shell of the headset to do it. There’s a pair of clips on each side of the headset holding the top and bottom halves together. If you cut the fabric over the seam, you can separate the halves and slide the headband attachment points out of the shell (after removing the 4 screws holding each in place).
I have a rift and I want to know if you can actually take out the strap off from the sides. I noticed you guys didn't. The Headband springs did not let you take it apart?