In this teardown, we open a Wii to the logic board. I couldn't have done this without the help of my girlfriend, Elizabeth.

这个拆解是不是维修指南。 要维修你的的Nintendo Wii,请使用我们的服务手册

  1. Disconnect all external cords from the Wii console.
    • Disconnect all external cords from the Wii console.

    • Gather all tools.


  2. One small screw holds the BIOS memory battery.
    • One small screw holds the BIOS memory battery.

    • Once that screw is removed, you can slide out the plastic slot.


    • Remove these three black case screws. The one on the right is a few mm longer. These screws hold on the black plastic cover for the GameCube ports.


    • Lift off the black plastic plate.

    • There are four screws: two Phillips #00 and two Tri-Wing.


    • Remove all screws from the case.

      • Some screws are under rubber feet, or small, square paper screw covers (red square). I used a sharp metal tool to get under the screw covers. You could use an X-acto knife.

      • Several case screws require a Tri-Wing screwdriver.

    • The next step has more pictures of removing rubber feet and the screws underneath. The feet and screwcovers are self-adhesive, but not every foot or screwcover has a screw.


    • Remove rubber feet and screws underneath.


    • Careful! If you don't remove the feet and the screws underneath before you try to pull off the front panel, the tab can split!

    • Once all screws are removed, you should be able to pull off the front drive panel.

    • The wire connecting the front panel (green squares in the third image) can be pulled out gently by hand or with the help of a spudger.

    If you actually take the time to do this step It would not have a broken holder

    Walker Young - 回复

    • Now the case can be pulled apart.


  3. 传播 Fixmas 欢乐
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    传播 Fixmas 欢乐
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    • We lifted up the cover of the optical drive by removing the six Phillips #00 screws. These are all labeled on the previous image.

    • Because of a secured wire leading to the drive, we reattached the cover to facilitate the remove of the entire drive assembly without harming any of the electronics.

    • There are a ton of parts in the optical drive, but there is nothing very fancy about this drive compared to other slot-loading drives, so I didn't take it apart completely. There are also a ton of gears and levers that I did not want to deal with.


    • The screws holding in the drive were deep within the casing.

    • Once those screws were removed, the entire case could be lifted off.

    • Don't pull too hard! There are two cables attaching the drive to the logic board underneath.

    • This wire slid out from its horizontal slot. Once it was detached, the ribbon cable came out as well.


    • With those wires detached, the optical drive came off completely.


    • We begin trying to get to the logic board by removing this small black plastic rim.

    • Once within the case, all screws are Phillips #00. There are marked on the logic board with arrows, triangles, boxes, and crosses. From what I can tell, an arrow means that it just goes through the logic board cover. A triangle means that it is a longer logic board cover screw. A cross means that it holds on a plastic piece, and a box means that it holds on another EM shield / or heat sink.

    There is a small nut fitted snuggly on right side of the black plastic rim. Careful you don’t drop it and lose it.

    ghgomez1 - 回复

    • Remove all screws from the logic board cover. Two are recessed in the middle; others are along the edge. More will become visible as other parts are removed. It's like a game! You can start with the screws holding in the black plastic pieces, but I started with the most visible and went from there.

    • There are two wires (shown in the third picture) coming from the logic board and connected to the Wi-Fi antennas. These are delicate. Do not break them.


    • Take out these screws in the black plastic casing.


    • Detach the case fan. There are two screws holding it in.

    • You must detach the power connector for the fan if you want to remove it completely.


    • If your screwdriver is not magnetized, you will need a magnet to get out some of the embedded screws. You can hold a magnet against your screwdriver shaft to temporarily magnetize it.

    • Once all the screws out, you can begin to remove the black casing.


    • With the black plastic covers off, we can see all the screw holes. Most of the screws are out by now, but once the rest of them are out, you can lift off the logic board cover.

    • Note that at least one part is thermal padded to the logic board cover. You might have to replace this thermal pad, but I didn't. I just pushed them back together. Oh well!

    • Remove any remaining screws in the logic board cover.


    • Once all screws are removed, lift off the logic board cover.


    • Look around.

    • This is the thermal padding.

    • We opted not to remove the heat sink from the logic board, but it certainly could be removed.


    • Take some more awesome photos.


    • And take a couple more photos.


    • We stopped there.

    • A muffin tin worked really well to organize all the screws.

    • Putting the Wii back together took only about half an hour, and it works perfectly. We improved Nintendo's design by three or four screws and one square nut, but worsened their design by one piece of duct tape (to hold in the bios battery).


I was kinda hoping you would take apart the optical drive assembly, you said there is "nothing fancy" about it, but since Nintendo designed this drive to be able to take the "mini" discs from GameCube, they have to work out a mechanism to center the disc before loading it onto the motor, hence "a ton of gear and levers" and that's the exact thing I actually wanted to see, I really wanted to know how they made it work..


Steven - 回复

Maybe I can make a guide for you with it like that. I plan to replace the Hard Drive in my wii so ill make a guide.

ZeldaAwesome -

@zeldaawesome It is not a hard drive, it is NAND. In fact, that’s about as far away from a hard drive as you can get.

Xu Xian -

Nice guide. I have one suggestion and one comment to add.

Suggestion: a different color circle in the pictures for the Tri tip screws would speed up re-installation.

Comment: the extra square nut holds in the BIOS battery cover which is quite inconvenient to discover as it is the last screw you reinstall.

AD Kocher - 回复

Thank you! Helped a lot to change the casing. The only advice that I can give is to organize the screws properly to mount it up again.


Edgis Stankke - 回复

Thanks for this. My Wii is now 9 and I need to do a good clean out of dust and what not. This will be really helpful.

Wizbang FL - 回复

so i got off the first two triangle screws under the black plastic on the gamecube controller ports, and after, i went to take off the four on the side of the wii. i got the ones that were deep in the console, but as i tried to get the black triangle ones that are a little smaller i messed up the screws to much and i pretty much lost the threading on the two. what can i do to get them off. i can replace them if i can get the darn things off. also i was using a flat head that worked on all the other silver triangle screws.

Gage Bowser - 回复

Hi one question you disassemble that only pcb stays you must unscrew heatsink but then it heatsink wont posture is it enough the i just screw or i need to clean and add new paste?

obregr - 回复

Would you mind answering a question? My Wii was dropped on accident, and I thought I heard something come loose. Sure enough, little black chunks of plastic came out of the fan slot when I examined it. The Wii itself appeared to work, but I can't help but worry that somehow gameplay might be effected. Any ideas where the black pieces of plastic came from? Will this effect the Wii's performance? Please respond as soon as you can!

Megalodon - 回复

Thanks for the 411. It was useful, with a few side notes:

1)I tried following your tool list on the cheap. Thinking that I had a ton of tool kits already, I skipped ordering the Phillips screw drivers. I panicked a little when I started my teardown, only to find all my drivers too big for the job....save one. The Phillips screw driver in the "Radio Shack 61PC Computer and Electrical Tool Set" handles all the Phillips screws on the teardown.

2)The notation about the hidden screws was a little misleading and a bit of an aggravation, as only a small percent of the feet actually covered screws (1, actually, IIRC). For a future edition of this teardown, please add some sketches to show the proper locations.The recommended "Pro Magnetic Project Mat" and my lame excuse for art skills saved me in this area.

gzapiec - 回复

When I took the drive apart there was a small plastic part rattling around which i managed to retrieve. Black, circular with three curved arms. It says push on the top side. Any idea what it is?

gjwilder - 回复

can anyone please post a pic of the loading gears on the opposite side that also show tge positions if the three springs. And the gears position with a disc loaded and not. Thanks

mon - 回复

Thanks for the brilliant and well annotated tear down! A dab of no nails with a cocktail stick will make sure the rubber feet will stay sat when you reattach them.

ghost virus - 回复

@gjwilder - that's the center piece out of the holder inside the game case, it probably broke off and got stuck in the center hole of the disk and loaded into the slot unnoticed.

Andrew Bowers - 回复

I think a torx screwdriver works on tri-wing screws.

Lee - 回复

I can't imagine how that would work; torx and tri-wings are shaped very differently. In any case, it's much better to use the right tool for the job, or you risk stripping screws and never getting them out again. Tri-wing drivers are pretty easy to get ahold of, so best not to take shortcuts ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

في منكم بتكلم عربي

luka abdo - 回复

the hannah mareiMedlock

James newton - 回复



过去的24小时: 63

过去的7天: 439

过去的30天: 2,099

总计 223,504