视频概述
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我们可以在FCC标志和Lighting接口之间找到新的型号代码:A1657
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看到苹果第一款可以充电的鼠标我们着实很激动-但是我们还是要说,把充电口放在这真的很搞笑。
Apple’s opt-criticized decision to put the lightning port on the bottom makes a lot of sense to me— the clear message here is that when you see “mouse battery low” warnings, plug your mouse in to charge the next time you walk away from your computer— over lunch, or at the end of the day. Since it’s a 2-month-lasting battery and Apple’s low battery predictions are often accurate and give you plenty of time, you really have 2-3 days before it’s dead, so even the most forgetful of users will have multiple chances to plug the thing in overnight.
But this really seems like an intentional design choice to prevent users from using the mouse with a cable plugged-in permanently. Corded mice almost always have the cable built-in rather than having a female plug for good reason— moving a mouse around can and will put a lot of strain on a plug. So Apple made the decision that rather than warning users not to use the mouse while plugged in for extended periods of time, to make it impossible to use while charging.
A few (too many) have griped about the horrible seething pain of not having the freedom to ignore low battery warnings repeatedly and then once it’s dead, use it as a corded mouse for a while. Apple decided that if you choose to ignore all the warnings, you can later let your mouse charge for 2 1/2 hours without using it… but in reality, if you just need a charge to last until the end of the day, a 15-30 minute charge will do the job, and you can charge it the rest of the way over night.
There have been so many gripes about this from the Apple community, it feels like the Apple-hating 1990s all over again. Here’s the deal— the product works well and gives plenty of leeway. It doesn’t work like your favorite rock-bottom-priced PC accessory, but it also doesn’t instant-die without warning, nor does the internal connector break after a year like that PC accessory. Both build quality and design (in terms of user experience) are responsible for a mouse that’ll last a decade or more.
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苹果已经提到他们的鼠标具有“优化的垫脚设计”。 我们认为我们应该剥下这些垫脚就有机会来找到那些藏在下面的新型号螺丝。
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经过大量的加热和用上了半打撬动工具,我们将鼠标下半部分从下面的胶状混乱中部分拆解了出来。
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过了大概一个世纪,我们终于将底壳从鼠标主体上分离了下来,然后看见了(仍然很黏的)中框的结构。
is the lower casing material now real aluminium or just aluminium looking plastic as it was before?
It was NEVER silver painted plastic. Maybe you should have a closer look - VERY thin, hardened aluminium can appear _like_ plastic, but be assured - it's REAL aluminium. This isn't HP here.
well, having a closer look at my magic mouse 1, all i see is where the shinier silver-colored outer metallic coating has worn away in a splotchy and spotty manner from where my fingers gripped it on both sides; gross. what's underneath looks and feels very much like gray plastic.
so, is the new 2 a single piece of solid aluminum? really want to know, especially for that price. $80 for a mouse that will need a new battery in 2-3 years AND has it's outer coating disintegrate to human touch is not a good deal.
PS -
tuck it guy if u dnt
do it why, heavens open all day. not headed there why ask
pull your finger out of your whatever - it's aluminium and always been aluminium. Repaired a dozen of these, so yeah - aluminium.
Unless you have a cheap chinese knockoff not genuine magic mouse :D
DigiHead -
I’m a little perplexed by this as I have both iterations in front of me. While I only needed my thumbnails to separate the case on both, my Magic Mouse 1 is, without doubt, Aluminum. The Magic Mouse 2 base is just regular silver coloured plastic.
Mit dem Wissen, wie und wo die vier Haken sitzen, ist das Öffnen der Maus auch ohne das mühsame Entfernen des Klebers ganz einfach: In den Ecken nacheinander mit einem Spatel unter die Kante des Oberteils fassen, mit dem Spatel das Oberteil seitlich verschieben, so dass der Haken herausspringt. Damit ist das Öffnen eine Sekundensache.
There is an easier way to taking this apart, if you didnt already know and you are looking to repair one of these this will help. All that needs to be done is to pry the top half along the sides with a flat head screw driver, you should hear a click. Repeat this u till all is off. https://youtu.be/thNxWVfLrr4 here is the video i found for reference, this way is a lot better as you can repair it in a shorter amount of time and it is less damaging
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终于我们看明白了! 螺丝! 不幸的是,他们在排线上按装了一个支架,这暂时阻止了我拆解鼠标头-但是,排线的“安全带”会使鼠标更好地承受跌落所带来的冲击。
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最终将鼠标底部分离开来,现在就可以看清楚外壳上的电容式触摸感应阵列。
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单击鼠标时,一个小的弹簧会提供一定的阻力并将力分散开来,从而使右侧的小按钮看起来占据了鼠标的整个宽度。 酷!
https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/...
You broke the lock, top-right side !!Right-click result when left-clicking... it was that "little spring" all along!
"A little spring provides some resistance and distributes force when the mouse is clicked, making it seem like the small button on the right occupies the whole width of the mouse. Cooool!
My Magic Mouse 2, annoyingly and frequently delivered right-clicks when left-clicking. Many posts on line mention this, and suggest settings, resets and other software/electronic remedies: none of these worked for me. Plus my other Magic Mouse (Type 1) did not do this.
Emboldened by this article to open it, I inspected the little spring, its attitude, and where it landed on the underside of the top.
Cut to the chase: I aligned it crossways to better center it on the dark plastic rib which the end touches, and for good measure, bent it up slightly to increase the upward force on the mouse top.
And... fixed! No more annoying right-click outcomes of left-clicking.
P.S: The little spring appears to provide ALL the resistance...
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这个小小的主板看起来很成熟!
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Broadcom BCM20733增强数据速率型蓝牙3.0单芯片解决方案
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未知的303S0499-可能是专有的Apple触摸控制器
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恩智浦1608A1充电IC
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德州仪器56AYZ21
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意法半导体STM32F103VB 72 MHz 32位RISC ARM Cortex-M3
Good morning, I'm speaking from Brazil.
Could you indicate me a supplier of the integral card (photo 8), because my Mac is not recognizing the bluetooth of the magic mouse 2 . Thank you very much, I look forward to it.
Bom dia, estou falando do Brasil.
Você poderia me indicar um fornecedor da placa integral (photo 8), pois meu Mac não está reconhecendo o bluetooth do magic mouse 2 . Muito obrigado, aguardo.
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Magic Mouse 2可修复性得分:2(最容易修复为10)
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Lighting接口和电池可以被更换(均为独立组件),独立的主板-这些都建立在您能拆开设备的前提下。
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更换故障的微动开关需要撬开强力粘合剂和进行焊接。
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过度使用强力粘合剂会使拆卸后面板非常困难,从而阻碍了对每个内部组件的维修。
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如果没有服务手册,很难在不损坏内部组件(例如光学传感器和电源开关)的情况下拆开鼠标。
I don't quite agree. I mean, I can just remove the glued-on lower case with a screwdriver in a few minutes. I would give it a 7/10 score instead.
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51条评论
hmmm... what was wrong with just replacing batteries?
Now we have a device that has a limited life span of about 2-5 years due to the battery (which can develop faults)....
I dont like Apple purposely creating limit life span products, and using tones of glue to make them difficult to repair - this is not good and quite distrusting of Apple... Steve Jobs would hate all this glue -- what ever happened to good well-built great designed products???
On keyboards, little. On mice, I get through a lot of batteries.
alex -
And there was plenty of glue around in Apple products where SJ was running the show.
98% of these mice will never need repairing outside warranty. That glue makes for a product that is less likely to go wrong.
Of course iFixit doesn't care [in a positive sense] about reliability. They want products that they can sell you a fix for.
alex -
On the contrary, it was after Steve Jobs return to Apple that they moved away from maintanable hardware to gluey messes. And honestly, there's nothing wrong with that. Apple banks on the fact that the vast majority of its customers will accept nigh non-existent repairability in exchange for sleek form factors, and they're absolutely right. That means that the few percent of computer users who value repairability and upgradeability can take their business elsewhere, and honestly, that sort of person wasn't in the market for an overpriced product that's more fashion accessory than it is a tool in the first place.
dbgrogg -
There was a flaw with their battery holder, I always had issues where the batteries wouldn’t make proper contact with the positive end of the AA cell, and disconnect, I fixed the problem with a blob of solder on the contact, but this was a temporary solution to a problem with the design.
Has anyone tried this?
DetroitBORG did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qn6fz_6_... (at 4:14)
seems some guy is also selling a charging dock for these now to combat the terrible charging deisgn http://www.ebay.com/itm/252379999994
alexjankuv - 回复
In step 8, photo 2 of the board top there's an unpopulated usb port footprint on the right edge of the board. Looks like they ran a revision with the usb port coming out the front.
You know what? As a repair and service engineer of 25 years, I wouldn't let iFixit ANYWHERE NEAR my Magic Mouse if they think that spinning it around on its back is a good idea - that'll scratch the plastic top shell - WHY WOULD YOU DO THAT, YOU CRAZY PEOPLE? Talk about stupid - that video is just a staff member showing off, trying to make the video "interesting" - well don't - we are not fools.
Matt you're impractically critical and it sounds like you're insecurely threatened by a company that teaches people how to fix their own stuff versus spending money on you, the bitchy "repair tradesman".
Your trumped up title does a good job at introducing the rest of you.
Guess I'll hold on to my first gen Magic keyboard and mouse rather than the inconvenience of recharging, waiting, and throwing out a less-than-friendly keyboard/mouse set. But i guess if it lasts 3-5 years that's all we can expect. I still prefer consumer-friendly devices though so I'll hold onto my first gen devices as long as I can.
where can i find those spare black feet
The battery stopped holding a charge 13 1/2 months after we bought it…out of warranty for 1 1/2 months. Apple initially said tough luck! Took some more complaining to get it a replacement. How can Apple claim to be green when you can’t replace the battery?
Thank you for your information;
typically I thought that I could open the Magic Mouse without reading any instructions…boy was I wrong! Oh well, I actually prefer Logitech or other cheaper mouses than Apple’s offering anyhow. I’ve been a loyal Apple fan since Apple began. They may be the biggest brand but they got there by royally screwing those who got them there
Bob W.
Use first version of magic mouse. Use rechargeable batteries. Saves a lot of time. No gimmicks.
Ben Tupper - 回复
My father let it sit in a drawer for a year and I fear the Li battery has lost it’s ability to charge. Seems to be a common issue with electronics today. If you leave them discharged for long enough, they won’t charge again. And with these tightly integrated batteries, fixing it becomes a hard sell.
Thanks for your great JOB, i’ve repaired my Magic Mouse 2
You have got to be kidding me with a battery that lasted (3) months.
The proprietary flat cable is soldered to the battery in a manner that no one should try to un-solder it. It’s fun to take apart, but unlikely that mortals could safely un-solder the cable from the battery. A wonderful example of an “unrepairable-by-design” item.
I was able to open the MM2 with a spudger - the plastic clips pictured in step 6 were the only thing holding the top on mine. From there I had access to the rest of the internal parts, making it easy to swap the clicker with a silent one. Worked well and was way easier than I thought… No mess with adhesive, not too much fuss with reseating the ribbon. Maybe I just got lucky?
This. Actually the whole process of tearing apart the metal cover with heat is totally not needed. Both halves are kept together with just 4 clips.
Do you have any photos/videos showing how this can be done?
Chris -
no need to remove wear strips on bottom, just twist the top shell off with plastic spudger tool - you can use screw driver but take care not to damage the plastic edges and aluminium bottom half
I have a Magic Mouse 2 and the onscreen pointer jumps all around the place.
I have looked and got all the cat hair and dust i could - yet it still jumps around.
Please advise:
There is no need to remove the glued bottom, the mouse pops open relatively easily…..four spots 1.5 inches from the front and back on both sides
Hello! I have this problem. I click on magic mouse but the key don’t come back and so I can’t click again. Can I or someone repair it? Or do I have to buy another?
Hey Paolo, if you pry off the white top using a thick guitar pick or spudger (just use force about 3 cm from the top and end of the device, inside the seams) you can bend up the spring a little bit. This may help. Alternatively, shake and tap the ouse on a table to see if anything falls out.
Laurens -
You don’t actually have to contend with any glue when disassembling this mouse. Nor do you need to solder anything. Replacing the battery/port combo could realistically take around 10 minutes for a semi skilled tech.
Hi iFixit,
Thanks for all your hard work! I have used this to tackle replacing a battery. As you say, it’s NOT easy! I thought I’d let you know I have managed to do it. I found a battery for £21.50. I didn’t bother taking the feet off, I did heat the case with a hair dryer and was attempting to remove the base from the the internal structure, using a few ‘plectrum’ prying leavers … !! but somehow I managed to release a couple of the four clips, I went on to undo the others and it opened! The motherboard does need to come off to get the battery ribbon under it. Out of curiosity I wondered if I could do it again, and I did! There is a knack to it, but it does save the un-gluing! Why so much glue under the battery! it ain’t going anywhere with the tight fitting enclosure around it. I removed all the double sided tape off the new battery before installing it, in case I replace it again in the future. Thanks!! For the cost of the battery I now have a piece of Apple E waste that’s now worth £40-£50!
Best, Gavin
ain’t this a kick in the cargo pants. my (purchased in 2017) MM2 has sprung to life…dunno what was going on. i pried off the skids and tried lifting the bottom shell with my spongers…but set it side…put the skids back on and pushed it to the side. i had left the bluetooth system pane open, and i saw it listed, it was turned off, so i pushed the switch to on and it now recognised….huzzah for monkey prying!
Apple updated the Magic Mouse 2 in August 2021 and dropped the “2” from the name. I’m not sure what has changed internally, but Apple said it has a longer battery life, so possibly other things have changed internally as well. That could justify a new teardown! (hint: please do)
5 Years battery's died. 2/10 to replace. Reverted to ordinary USB mouse which was actually older than the MM2. Apple should be landfill/climate change taxed to death for this kind of product.
Lucky for you to get 5 years out of it. Mine died after only 3 years with very light usage. Now it's a fancy 80 USD paperweight. Anything Apple says about the environment is pure marketing BS when they're still selling this piece of e-waste garbage to this very day.
Oh my gosh I hate ADHESIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! my dad's mouse stoped holding a charge (not like it was easy to tell because there's not even an indication that the thing is charged without connecting it to a Mac) had to replace the battery. It worked but I wanted to just throw the thing out and buy a new one for him( which is what apple wants)
There is a much simpler way to get into the mouse by just unclipping four clips. Check out this video: https://youtu.be/MeEmI8B5YkU
I think mine (at work) died. Just wanted to check the battery but couldn't figure out how to open it. After this guide, I think it's not worth it. I've never used an Apple product outside of my work, and I don't think I ever will.
I can confirm that the outer touch surface can be swapped between same-model mice. Even if one is black, one is white. You'll need to plug it in via lightning cable to re-recognize after assembly, and the icon color (black/white) will still reflect the original base, not the newly swapped different-colored top.