简介
You will be able to teardown your Logitech Mouse in case of problems
你所需要的
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Unscrew the screws under the label
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Unscrew the single screw below the USB-dongle space
Don’t bother cutting/peeling back the label inside the battery compartment, just poke your driver around until you feel it settle into the head of the screws.
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Under the rubber on the top of the mouse there are other screws
Near the lower left corner of the “skate” is a slot for a thin flat head screwdriver to start lifting the skate. Once, it is partially lifted, rotate the handle of the driver to gently peel it away, don’t scrape off the adhesive by sliding the driver around.
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I had a problem with the right click: I solved with a shim on the little switch
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Here we are!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!! Had the exact problem and this allowed me to fix it. I cut out a piece of semi-hard thin plastic from a retail package (any kind will probably do). I used strips of 2mm cell phone repair tape to stick the shim to the underside of the top shell of the mouse, since I wanted to be able to remove it and put a thicker shim if needed, but this worked. The same type of thin double sided tape worked great to reattach the rubber pad covering the top two screws.
You're welcome ;)
I had no idea they had screws under the label. Optic popped out of the snapcasing; popped it back in, saved $30 replacing my mouse. Nice guide.
I'm happy to be usefull!
Had issues left clicking to highlight…micro switch had intermittent contact. Nice how-to to find all the hidden screws. Used 2 layers of aluminum tape (really good stuff!) to build up the pads that hit the micro switches. works great now.
My issue was that I’d dislodged the photo receptor and laser when I dropped my mouse. I was able to reseat it, and test the mouse, then I added a dab of hot glue to keep it seated the next time I drop it.
Awesome. I just fixed my M705 by following these instructions. I was having a hard time making the buttons click, especially when dragging. A thin piece of plastic (from retail packing as mentioned in a previous comment) secured with thin double-sided tape to the bottom of the mouse buttons (on the top case) worked great. Thanks for this!
Thanks! I was able to repair my mouse without pestering my husband to do it for me. All the comments were very helpful, too. I used two layers of the semi rigid plastic from the packaging of the glue, then glued them to the shell side. I’d love instructions on how to disable the thumb-side arrow buttons since I’m always accidentally pressing them. I would suggest only using one layer of the plastic, I had to go back in and add one layer to the right side because I’d added too much to the left.
Great stuff. The ‘spokes’ of the scroll wheel were full of dust so the optical sensor wasn’t reading it properly.
Thank you! I needed an image of the inside. I dropped mine and the black snap clicker for the wheel fell off. Was able to reattach it and now it free spins or click spins again.
Perfecto, solo hay que quitar los 5 tornillos y si se quiere separar la tapa de la base, desenchufar, estirando, el conector blanco que hay en el unico hilo que une la tapa con la base.
Thank you. I too had problem with intermittent contact on the left button (most used). On my first attempt to repair I missed the screws under the label and the pad. I only found 1 out of the 5. I hope that some dust cleaning and a little shim will keep this mouse clicking for another marathon.
Thank you! My left primary button was double-clicking on a single click and causing chaos!
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
47等其他人完成本指南。
12条评论
1) There is an additional screw that is already removed on the first picture : under the USB stick emplacement.
2) It is not necessary to remove the rubber. Just peel it with something thin, because the screws are very lateral
3) Be careful while disassembling the top, it is plugged to the base by a 3 wires connector (white/red/black on the Step 4 picture).
Nice simple guide. I used it to quickly take apart a M705 where the laser stopped working after it fell. I didn't do more than reseat the connector cable, but it seems to work again now !
Philippe Puech's comments are good. In fact I wished I'd noticed his 2) before removing the rubber, as the lower layer distorts and doesn't fit back well on a complete removal. His comment puzzled me at first, and might be better phrased as "Peel back the rubber from each side to expose the Left and Right retaining screws. "
A screw bit labelled PH1 (Philllips Head 1) seemed to fit the screws well.
great thanks.. just to clarify you screw right through the lable.. no need to remove it. that got me stuck for a while.
now
Additional tear down. When removing the top cover with the pre-mentioned 3 wire connector. There are two screws which hold down the silver/grey skin or cover. I had to remove mine as the alignment of the left and right buttons had changed and allowed them two to touch. This alignment issue also caused issues with the scroll wheel where pages where constantly changing position or “jumping”.
This was great help, when my right mouse button was hard to press down. I found a thin wide cable was sticking straight up, making the right click hard to press down. I just folded it in.
This was great - I had a problem that I thought was software with a “no click left button”, even though the mouse movement worked fine. And then - had the same problem when I took the mouse to a completely different machine. Checking carefully suggested that one of the forward/back thumb buttons had jammed down and intermittently ‘on’, and so might be interfering with other button actions. Used this guide to open it up, and just unplug the forward/back button connector. So far, it is back to working fine, and I am expecting this will have solved a problem with an otherwise great mouse!
Danke für die Anleitung. Einen kleinen Nachtrag habe ich aber. In der aktuellen Version dieser Maus ist eine weitere Schraube unter dem Aufkleber des Batteriefachs!
I found one more Screw under the Battery decal, in the Version of 2020
Thanks a lot
Danke nochmal
My scroll wheel was no longer spinning freely in the unlocked state. Pulled it apart and found quite a bit of lint underneath the wheel and around the pin on the right side of the wheel. Used a pair of iFixit angled tweezers and got it all cleaned up. I’ve used this mouse as my daily driver for the past four years and I’m hopeful I’ll be able to keep it working for at least four more.
I must have a newer version of this model, as the bottom doesn't look the same. Will there be an updated tutorial?
I think the M720 is the updated version, but it's a heavier mouse. M705 one can work with 1 battery, which makes it much lighter. Also, the sensor position on the M720 is more in the middle. If you're used to M705's far right sensor position, M720 may take getting used to.
Sebouh -
Don’t overlook the single screw visible just below where the USB dongle (Universal Receiver) nests under the battery cover.
Duane Blanchard - 回复