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简介

按照本指南中的步骤拆卸,转移和/或更换 iPhone XR 中的耳机扬声器和前传感器组件。该组件包括耳机扬声器、麦克风、环境光传感器、泛光照明器和接近传感器。

这个组件在工厂与你的个人 iPhone 配对,因此你必须在更换显示器时将其从旧显示器转移到新的。

泛光照明器是组成生物识别Face ID安全功能的一部分,如果原始组件损坏或安装不正确,Face ID功能将失败。用新零件替换它也会导致Face ID失效,因此在此过程中要特别注意不要损坏任何这些组件。如果损坏,只有苹果可以恢复Face ID功能。

  1. 在开始之前,请将iPhone电池的电量降至25%以下。充电的锂离子电池如果意外被刺破可能会着火和/或爆炸。 在开始拆卸之前关闭iPhone电源。
    • 在开始之前,请将iPhone电池的电量降至25%以下。充电的锂离子电池如果意外被刺破可能会着火和/或爆炸。

    • 在开始拆卸之前关闭iPhone电源。

    • 取下 iPhone 底部边缘的两颗6.7 mm 长的五角螺丝。

    • 打开 iPhone 会损害其防水密封。在完成此步骤之前,请准备好更换密封件,或者在不更换密封件的情况下重新组装 iPhone 时,请注意避免液体暴露。

    • 每个五角形螺丝的头部下方有一个黑色橡胶垫圈。为了最大程度地防止灰尘和液体进入,请在重新组装时检查垫圈的状况或更换螺丝。

    One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.

    In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!

    Erica - 回复

  2. 通过加热iPhone下角从而让胶水变软, 并且更加的简单打开。
    • 通过加热iPhone下角从而让胶水变软, 并且更加的简单打开。

    • 使用风筒或者热风枪, 或者使用iOpener并放置在iPhone下部约一分钟使得密封胶变软。

    An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.

    Colin Wylie - 回复

  3. 以下两步示范了iSclack的使用方法,我们推荐经常需要进行维修的用户使用它。如果你没有iSclack,跳过以下两步以了解其他方法。 如果iSclack中间装有塑料制的深度计,请将它拆除——像iPhone XR这样较大的iPhone不需要用到它。
    • 以下两步示范了iSclack的使用方法,我们推荐经常需要进行维修的用户使用它。如果你没有iSclack,跳过以下两步以了解其他方法。

    • 如果iSclack中间装有塑料制的深度计,请将它拆除——像iPhone XR这样较大的iPhone不需要用到它。

    • 将吸盘吸附在接近iPhone下部边缘的位置——一个在正面,一个在背面。

    • 用力按压两个吸盘以完全吸附在表面。

    • 如果您的屏幕或背盖玻璃已破裂,请在屏幕上方贴上一层透明封箱胶以帮助吸盘正常吸附在表面上。iSclack已含有了两片胶带以对应此情况。

  4. 紧握您的iPhone,并按压iSclauk的手柄,将屏幕与手机下部略微分开。 不要尝试完全分离屏幕,目前您仅需要将屏幕与手机下部略微分离。 在刚刚开启缝隙中插入一片塑料片。
    • 紧握您的iPhone,并按压iSclauk的手柄,将屏幕与手机下部略微分开。

    • 不要尝试完全分离屏幕,目前您仅需要将屏幕与手机下部略微分离。

    • 在刚刚开启缝隙中插入一片塑料片。

    • 跳过接下来的步骤至步骤8。

  5. 如果你使用单个吸柄的话,把它贴在手机的底边,注意避开玻璃边缘的弯曲部分。 如果您的屏幕已经破损严重,在屏幕上贴上一两层透明胶带可以让吸盘更好地吸附;或者可以使用非常结实的胶带代替吸盘拉开屏幕。可是所有其他方法都失败了怎么办?试试看把吸盘用强力胶粘在破损的屏幕上。
    • 如果你使用单个吸柄的话,把它贴在手机的底边,注意避开玻璃边缘的弯曲部分。

    • 如果您的屏幕已经破损严重,在屏幕上贴上一两层透明胶带可以让吸盘更好地吸附;或者可以使用非常结实的胶带代替吸盘拉开屏幕。可是所有其他方法都失败了怎么办?试试看把吸盘用强力胶粘在破损的屏幕上。

  6. 缓缓用力向上拉吸盘,在玻璃前面板和金属外壳之间拉开一个小缝隙。 将塑料拨片插入缝隙中。 固定屏幕用的的防水粘合剂非常牢固;要打开这个间隙可能需要非常用力。如果您发现很难分离屏幕与后盖,请继续加热,并轻轻地拉动屏幕以弄松粘合剂,直到拉开一个可以插入塑料拨片的缝隙即可。
    • 缓缓用力向上拉吸盘,在玻璃前面板和金属外壳之间拉开一个小缝隙。

    • 将塑料拨片插入缝隙中。

    • 固定屏幕用的的防水粘合剂非常牢固;要打开这个间隙可能需要非常用力。如果您发现很难分离屏幕与后盖,请继续加热,并轻轻地拉动屏幕以弄松粘合剂,直到拉开一个可以插入塑料拨片的缝隙即可。

  7. 将塑料拨片由左下角滑动至左上角以划开屏幕固定胶。 不要将塑料拨片插入iPhone过多,否则可能会损坏内部部件。 不要将塑料拨片插入iPhone过多,否则可能会损坏内部部件。
    • 将塑料拨片由左下角滑动至左上角以划开屏幕固定胶。

    • 不要将塑料拨片插入iPhone过多,否则可能会损坏内部部件。

  8. 将塑料拨片重新插入底边,并由右下角划至右上角以划开屏幕固定胶。 不要将塑料拨片插入iPhone过深,这样可能会损坏您iPhone的显示屏排线。插入距显示面板边缘几毫米的深度即可。 不要将塑料拨片插入iPhone过深,这样可能会损坏您iPhone的显示屏排线。插入距显示面板边缘几毫米的深度即可。
    • 将塑料拨片重新插入底边,并由右下角划至右上角以划开屏幕固定胶。

    • 不要将塑料拨片插入iPhone过深,这样可能会损坏您iPhone的显示屏排线。插入距显示面板边缘几毫米的深度即可。

  9. 显示屏的上边缘由胶水与卡扣一同固定。 在显示屏的上角划动塑料拨片,并轻轻地向下朝闪电接口方向拉动或者滑动显示屏。 若用力过猛可能会损坏卡扣,请小心操作。
    • 显示屏的上边缘由胶水与卡扣一同固定。

    • 在显示屏的上角划动塑料拨片,并轻轻地向朝闪电接口方向拉动或者滑动显示屏。

    • 若用力过猛可能会损坏卡扣,请小心操作。

    • 再次重申,不要将塑料拨片插入过深——仅需要插入距离显示面板边缘几毫米即可——否则您可能会损坏前面板传感器阵列。

    • 划动塑料拨片至另一边角以划开剩下的固定胶。

  10. 拉动吸盘上的小突起,将其从前面板上拆下。
    • 拉动吸盘上的小突起,将其从前面板上拆下。

    • 如果您使用iSclack且仍然贴在iPhone上,请将它取下来。

  11. 将屏幕自左边边缘翻开以打开您的iPhone,就像翻开书的封底一样。 请不要在此步骤完全分离显示面板,因为现在仍有几条连接至主板的排线没有取下。 在进行接下来的操作时,请把显示面板靠在某个东西上以保持支撑。
    • 将屏幕自左边边缘翻开以打开您的iPhone,就像翻开书的封底一样。

    • 请不要在此步骤完全分离显示面板,因为现在仍有几条连接至主板的排线没有取下。

    • 在进行接下来的操作时,请把显示面板靠在某个东西上以保持支撑。

    • 在重新组装过程中,将显示器放置到位,沿顶部边缘对齐夹子,然后小心地将顶部边缘压入到位,然后将显示器的其余部分向下对齐。如果无法正常装回,请检查屏幕周围卡扣的状况并确保它们没有弯曲。

    • 拧下电池排线挡板的三颗1.2mm Y000螺丝。

    • 取下挡板。

    • 整个维修过程,始终都不要忘记螺丝的位置 ,也不要将它搞丢。当你将手机组装回去时,一定要确保所有螺丝都被安装到位,否则手机将极有可能损坏。

    • 在重新组装过程中,打开iPhone并测试所有功能是个好主意,然后再将显示屏密封就位。 在继续工作之前,请确保完全关闭iPhone的电源。

    Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.

    Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.

    Erica - 回复

    +1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.

    Shan Potti - 回复

    Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…

    Shan Potti - 回复

  12. 用撬棒的尖端将电池连接器笔直向上从插座中撬出。 尽量不要损坏这个连接器和其他电路板连接器周围的黑色硅胶密封条。 这些密封件可提供额外的保护,防止水和灰尘侵入。
    • 用撬棒的尖端将电池连接器笔直向上从插座中撬出。

    • 尽量不要损坏这个连接器和其他电路板连接器周围的黑色硅胶密封条。 这些密封件可提供额外的保护,防止水和灰尘侵入。

    • 将连接器弯曲使它略微远离逻辑板,以防止电池在维修过程中意外与插座接触并为手机供电。

  13. 卸下固定屏幕连接器托架的两个1.2 mm Y000 螺丝。 拿下支架
    • 卸下固定屏幕连接器托架的两个1.2 mm Y000 螺丝。

    • 拿下支架

  14. 使用尖头撬棍 翘起触摸排线 要重新连接像这样的线缆连接头,请小心对齐并向下按压一侧,直到其卡入到位,然后在另一侧重复。 不要向下压中间。 如果连接器未对准,则插针会弯曲,从而造成永久性损坏。
    • 使用尖头撬棍 翘起触摸排线

    • 要重新连接像这样的线缆连接头,请小心对齐并向下按压一侧,直到其卡入到位,然后在另一侧重复。 不要向下压中间。 如果连接器未对准,则插针会弯曲,从而造成永久性损坏。

    • 如果维修后屏幕的任何部分对触摸均没有反应,请断开电池连接,然后重新安装此连接器,确保其完全卡入到位,并且插槽中没有灰尘或其他障碍物。

  15. 使用撬棒的尖端断开显示屏电缆连接器的连接。 使用撬棒的尖端断开显示屏电缆连接器的连接。
    • 使用撬棒的尖端断开显示屏电缆连接器的连接。

    The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?

    Andrew Pierson - 回复

    Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged

    Daniel Maldonado - 回复

  16. 拧下将逻辑板连接器支架固定至后壳的五颗螺钉: 一颗 1.3 mm Phillips #000 螺丝
    • 拧下将逻辑板连接器支架固定至后壳的五颗螺钉:

    • 一颗 1.3 mm Phillips #000 螺丝

    • 一颗1.5 mm Phillips #000 螺丝

    • 一颗 1.2 mm Y000 螺丝

    • 拿下盖板

    • 注意不要丢失夹在边缘上的小支架 。 它用小夹子固定,很容易会从较大的支架上意外脱落下来。

    Phillips screw 1.3 mm on last step is not working. The small clipped bracket has been damaged. This screw perhaps should be the first, before 1.2 Y000. - To be confirmed by others.

    Dmitri - 回复

    I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

    I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff

    fabianowens -

    I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.

    Stow -

    Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please

    Squishy Horses - 回复

    I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?

    Phillip Gross -

    My clip broke too! on iphone XR. Any word on necessity?

    Beth Buer - 回复

    I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.

    Carlos Oulman - 回复

    I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.

    Kyaw-Zin Win - 回复

    I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.

    pgrobin - 回复

    Is this small bracket important if broken??

    Phillip Gross - 回复

    Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??

    Marcos Fernández - 回复

    On the 1.3 mm screw I actually chose not to remove it. I broke it loose then used the tip of the spudger to simply twist the bracket out of the way, with the screw still attached. Then I could remove the larger bracket.

    mpalma - 回复

    Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:

    1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.

    2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.

    3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.

    Daniel Brehm - 回复

  17. 用撬棒的尖端从其插槽向上撬起前传感器组件的连接器。 用撬棒的尖端从其插槽向上撬起前传感器组件的连接器。
    • 用撬棒的尖端从其插槽向上撬起前传感器组件的连接器。

    During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.

    Tristan England - 回复

  18. 移除屏幕组件。
    • 移除屏幕组件。

    • 在重新组装过程中,如果要更换显示屏边缘周围的防水胶粘剂,请停下手头的工作看看这个指南

    unclear if this is where screen removal ends

    Daniel Maldonado - 回复

  19. 拧下将扬声器/传感器组件固定到显示器背面的四颗螺丝:
    • 拧下将扬声器/传感器组件固定到显示器背面的四颗螺丝:

    • 两颗 1.6 mm 菲利普斯十字螺丝

    • 一颗 2.3 mm 菲利普斯十字螺丝

    • 一颗 1.2 mm Y000 螺丝

    Do you really need to do step 21-30, because it says to replace, do it in reverse. Which means you are taking the components off and putting them back on without touching the screen? sorry if this is a dumb question, i’ve never done this before.

    ExplodingRage - 回复

    Good question! It depends on which guide you are completing. If you are replacing the screen, you do need to complete steps 21-30, in order to remove the front assembly and transfer it to your replacement screen. The front assembly contains the Face ID hardware, which is biometrically linked to the logic board.

    Now, if you are completing other guides, you may not need to remove the front assembly. Guides should have the steps slotted in only if they are pertinent to the procedure.

    Arthur Shi -

    Im reassembling and notice there are no threaded screw holes to secure the speaker/sensor assembly on the new display. no way to secure it at all. Do i not need to secure it?

    Ashley Fitzgerald - 回复

    Hi Ashley,

    There should definitely be screw holes to secure the assembly to the new display. If you purchased the part from iFixit, please contact our customer support, and we will sort things out for you!

    Arthur Shi -

    Same. No screw holes. Now what?

    M Schmidt - 回复

    Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

    Arthur Shi -

  20. 使用镊子轻轻翻转扬声器组件,使其远离显示屏的顶部边缘。 扬声器通过非常薄的柔性电缆保持连接。小心不要拉紧或损坏电缆。
    • 使用镊子轻轻翻转扬声器组件,使其远离显示屏的顶部边缘。

    • 扬声器通过非常薄的柔性电缆保持连接。小心不要拉紧或损坏电缆。

    I don’t understand. It clearly appears that one should stop disassembling after this step. Peeling off the tape here should provide access to the solder connections. Why remove a bunch of other adhered parts? ESD concerns?

    Of course, taking care not to transmit heat to the screen assembly below would be prudent. But it’s unlikely much if any heat would conduct even without using any sort of insulating spacer, assuming one’s soldering technique is acceptable. With a thermal mass that small, overheating the connection is the big concern. Especially since it is lead-free solder.

    (It has a high melting point. If you didn’t already know that, this is definitely not the best project to develop your soldering skills! You can still do it, but should def practice on similar connections until you feel proficient. Lifting a pad or overheating a nearby component are both dangers. Yet, the cost of the part is low enough you could buy two (just in case) and still come out ahead of Apple’s fee. Use flux or you’ll struggle!)

    Ryan Lewis - 回复

    Hey Ryan,

    You are right in that after this step, you could de-solder and replace the earpiece individually, if you choose to do some careful de-soldering and soldering. Alas, not everyone has the background and skill to do so! By instructing users to replace the complete assembly, we bypass the need to solder, and allow a wider audience to successfully complete the repair.

    Arthur Shi -

    When reassembling or placing the whole sensor module on a replacement screen, make sure to gently rock the speaker back into place. There is a rubber gasket lip around the speaker that must be seated all of the way against the screen and speaker grill to function properly. You should feel a gentle click when is goes in. If is not seated correctly it still easily can be screwed in making it difficult to tell if the speaker is in correctly.

    Colin Wylie - 回复

  21. 使用吹风机或热风枪或准备 iOpener 并将其放置在显示器的顶部正面约 1-2 分钟,以软化固定传感器的粘合剂。
    • 使用吹风机或热风枪或准备 iOpener 并将其放置在显示器的顶部正面约 1-2 分钟,以软化固定传感器的粘合剂。

    Review steps 24-29 prior to doing this. Step 27 shows removing ambient sensor. It is attached….barely…to the rest of this assembly. I thought I was being overly cautions, and it still broke. Don’t be afraid to use heat. Do not force. Any resistance, do not force it.. Heat it up and then try. Other than that, sound and camera works fine, and it appears that FaceID works. Not my phone, so I can’t test that part without unlocking customer’s phone. No error messages appeared, so Im assuming all is good. With the touch home button on older models, if touch wouldn’t work, you’d receive a message as soon as you booted the phone up. OK.. That’s enough. Just be careful over the next 5 steps..

    Shawn Bailey - 回复

  22. 使用开口撬片小心地在麦克风下方的柔性电缆下边缘滑动。 轻轻扭动以分离麦克风,同时注意不要拉紧或损坏柔性电缆。 如果需要,使用撬棒的点完成麦克风与前面板凹槽的分离。如果麦克风仍然难以分离,请加热。
    • 使用开口撬片小心地在麦克风下方的柔性电缆下边缘滑动。

    • 轻轻扭动以分离麦克风,同时注意不要拉紧或损坏柔性电缆。

    • 如果需要,使用撬棒的点完成麦克风与前面板凹槽的分离。如果麦克风仍然难以分离,请加热。

  23. 从左向右工作,在柔性电缆下方和接近传感器 + 泛光照明器模块下方滑动开口撬片。 轻轻摆动并抬起,将模块与前面板上的凹槽分开。 抬起并握住扬声器以便接入是有帮助的。工作时请注意不要拉薄的柔性电缆。
    • 从左向右工作,在柔性电缆下方和接近传感器 + 泛光照明器模块下方滑动开口撬片。

    • 轻轻摆动并抬起,将模块与前面板上的凹槽分开。

    • 抬起并握住扬声器以便接入是有帮助的。工作时请注意不要拉薄的柔性电缆。

  24. 使用镊子将小支架垂直向上滑动并离开环境光传感器。 使用镊子将小支架垂直向上滑动并离开环境光传感器。
    • 使用镊子将小支架垂直向上滑动并离开环境光传感器。

  25. 使用镊子摆动环境光传感器并将其从显示屏的凹槽中提起。 如果传感器在几秒钟后没有拉出来,请加热并再试一次。
    • 使用镊子摆动环境光传感器并将其从显示屏的凹槽中提起。

    • 如果传感器在几秒钟后没有拉出来,请加热并再试一次。

    • 传感器通过非常薄的柔性电缆保持连接到传感器组件的其余部分。小心不要拉紧或损坏电缆。

    On picture two, the thin transparent thread between the sensor and the display is not the “very thin flex cable” they are talking about but just some glue remains. In my case this thread of glue was sticking onto the sensor in the exact same way which made me suspicious at first.

    Konstantin - 回复

    The top part of the ambient light sensor easily breaks off from the bottom part. In that case do not despair. Pry the stuck part from the old display and transfer it to the new display. Put the assembly back together without glue. It should hold together just fine. Usually the auto brightness feature will still work.

    Heiko Quant - 回复

  26. 如果你成功移除了整个环境光线传感器,如第一张照片所示,请继续执行下一步骤。 如果白色漫射条脱落并嵌入显示屏中,如第二张照片所示,则需要使用薄刀片或撬具工具沿顶部边缘小心地将其拉出。首先重新加热可以使这项任务更容易一些。 在重组过程中,首先将漫射器安装到显示器中,确保它朝向正确的方向(前面一侧显示在第一张图片中,后面一面显示在第三张图片中)。
    • 如果你成功移除了整个环境光线传感器,如第一张照片所示,请继续执行下一步骤。

    • 如果白色漫射条脱落并嵌入显示屏中,如第二张照片所示,则需要使用薄刀片或撬具工具沿顶部边缘小心地将其拉出。首先重新加热可以使这项任务更容易一些。

    • 在重组过程中,首先将漫射器安装到显示器中,确保它朝向正确的方向(前面一侧显示在第一张图片中,后面一面显示在第三张图片中)。

    • 然后,将环境光传感器设置在漫射器顶部。在安装固定耳机/传感器组件的螺丝时,你需要将传感器固定到位。拧紧螺丝后,传感器将保持原位并正常工作。

  27. 取下耳机扬声器和前传感器组件。 在重新组装过程中,检查包含这些组件的黑色塑料模块的位置: 接近传感器
    • 取下耳机扬声器和前传感器组件。

    • 在重新组装过程中,检查包含这些组件的黑色塑料模块的位置:

    • 接近传感器

    • 泛光照明器

    • 必须正确定位这些模块,这样才不会被任何粘合剂阻塞。

    To replace just the earspeaker, you will have to re-use the the flex assembly which is soldered to the earspeaker…….

    the 2 solder connection are hidden under a tiny piece of thin black tape, on the underside of the speaker.

    Alan Sears - 回复

    forgot to mention to take the clear plastic mold off from the old screen!!

    BKimc - 回复

    Before attaching the sensor module to your replacement screen, ensure there is nothing blocking the earpiece screen on the new screen part. Mine had a mfg defect or something where there was a black foam like film on the outside of the speaker grill that I couldn’t remove with tape or sticky putty. I had to blow through the back of the grill with a computer duster compressed air can. Otherwise the call volume via the earpiece is extremely low, even when turned to max volume.

    Colin Wylie - 回复

    Hey there, if I have an iPhone bit damage and I remove the top speaker and sensor and put it on my other iPhone XR. Will it work? It is original iPhone XR and please let me know

    Nash G Krish - 回复

    The Face ID hardware is paired to the logic board and will not work if you transfer the front sensor assembly. Everything else should work.

    Arthur Shi -

    Are you suposeted to do it backwards when your done

    hewi fewi - 回复

    super gemacht , danke der olli

    schlüppi punkstrumpf - 回复

结论

把你的更换零件和原装零件做对比——你可能需要转移一些旧的零件,或者在安装之前把新零件后面的胶带去掉。

要重新组装设备,请按相反的顺序按照指南操作。

请把你的电子废料带到 R2 或者 e-Stewards 认证的回收商那里。

维修进展不如意?请查阅我们的问题解答指南 来排除障碍。

24等其他人完成本指南。

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how can I separate the proximity sensor flat from the ear speaker? it is microsoldering?

mario rossi - 回复

yes 2 solder connection are hidden under a tiny piece of thin black tape, on the underside of the speaker.

Alan Sears - 回复

La pièce proposée n’est pas la bonne,

la pièce qui correspond au tuto est celle ci : https://cpix.fr/store/pieces-detachees-i...

cPix - 回复

How do I pair a new flood illuminator to the phone

Richard Eyre - 回复

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