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简介

Follow this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly, which includes the lower microphones, antenna converter cable, and Lightning connector.

  1. Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.

  2. Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone. The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.
    • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

    • The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    • A thin rubber gasket around the SIM card tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM card tray to protect your iPhone's internal components.

  3. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

  4. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

  5. Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - 回复

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - 回复

  7. Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Stop near the top left corner of the display. Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

  8. Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

  9. Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display. Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  10. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  11. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  12. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - 回复

    • Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • Two 2.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair - 回复

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 - 回复

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz - 回复

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham - 回复

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board. Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth - 回复

  14. Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket. To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

  15. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.

  16. Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt - 回复

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley - 回复

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley - 回复

  17. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the  front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the  front panel sensor assembly connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  18. Remove the display assembly.

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John - 回复

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

  19. Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:
    • Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:

    • One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

    My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.

    Daryl Maunder - 回复

    I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.

    William Mitchell - 回复

    Hey William!

    We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.

    Arthur Shi -

  20. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  21. Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.
    • Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker.

    • This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.

  22. 未插入研究

    Mac电池维修套装

    购买维修套装

    未插入研究

    Mac电池维修套装

    购买维修套装
  23. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board.

  24. Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.
    • Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down.

    • Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.

    Daryl Maunder - 回复

    Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.

    jgrsf - 回复

  25. Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.
    • Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

  26. Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
    • Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Tiene que ser una broma que en el kit no te venga el destornillador plano para abrir el tornillo separador. Me habeis dejado a mitad

    Charlie - 回复

    Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?

    It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.

    Daryl Maunder - 回复

    When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!

    Daniel Timothy Case - 回复

    Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).

    Owen Edwards - 回复

  27. Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it. Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.
    • Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.

    Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.

    Nic Giannandrea - 回复

    Yep, I did find it too. Thanks

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Hola,

    Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?

    Gracias

    Eduardo Moral - 回复

    I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).

    John Weise - 回复

    I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.

    John Weise -

  28. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.
    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

    I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).

    Daryl Maunder - 回复

  29. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  30. Remove the two screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:
    • Remove the two screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:

    • One 2 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

  31. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
    • Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

  32. Remove the barometric vent.
    • Remove the barometric vent.

  33. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the camera cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the camera cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the camera cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

  34. Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:

    • One 3.0 mm standoff screw

    • One 3.1 mm Phillips screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    The screw and standoff are the other way round in this step. The photo shows the small screw removed and the standoff securing the logicboard is circled incorrectly. Also you may find that the standoff screw is not magnetic, making it a little tricky to replace!

    Michael Millington - 回复

    Hi Michael,

    You are correct; thanks for catching that! The original image was correct, and for some reason the image was updated, and no longer correct. I have reverted it back to the original image.

    Arthur Shi -

    wrong Screws in Picture

    mmiller - 回复

  35. Remove the rear-facing camera bracket.
    • Remove the rear-facing camera bracket.

  36. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the flash connector from its socket by prying it straight up. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the flash connector from its socket by prying it straight up.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the flash connector from its socket by prying it straight up.

    The small connector is not actually for the flash, the flash and mic module are just below that and connect to the same cable as the power button.

    Bonrad C - 回复

  37. Remove the two screws securing the upper cable bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the upper cable bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

  38. Remove the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  39. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the upper cable connector up from its socket. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the upper cable connector up from its socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the upper cable connector up from its socket.

  40. Remove the three Phillips 1.3 mm screws securing the top left antenna component.
    • Remove the three Phillips 1.3 mm screws securing the top left antenna component.

    1,2mm ! not 1,3mm ! thx

    Boni Zei - 回复

  41. Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top of edge of the case.
    • Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top of edge of the case.

  42. Remove the antenna component.
    • Remove the antenna component.

  43. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board:
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

  44. Remove the grounding clip.
    • Remove the grounding clip.

    what happen if don't put this part?

    albert saens - 回复

    Hi Albert,

    It’s hard to tell. Most phone functions will probably work, but you may start getting quirky problems.

    Arthur Shi -

    If it comes out it must go back in *no spare parts *

    Josh Brito - 回复

  45. Remove the three screws securing the motherboard:
    • Remove the three screws securing the motherboard:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.5 mm standoff screw

    • One 2.2 mm standoff screw

    The One 1.8 mm Phillips screw was buried under some gasket material. It took some twezzer work to get that material off.

    A.J. Roest - 回复

  46. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

  47. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  48. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector cable from the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector cable from the logic board.

  49. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.

  50. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up. Be careful not to pull against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Be careful not to pull against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

  51. Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
    • Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

  52. Remove the two screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
    • Remove the two screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

  53. Remove the speaker.
    • Remove the speaker.

  54. Remove the three screws securing the Lightning connector cable in place:
    • Remove the three screws securing the Lightning connector cable in place:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 2.2 mm Phillips screws

  55. Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the phone.
    • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the phone.

  56. Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the logic-board-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.
    • Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the logic-board-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.

  57. Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the battery-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.
    • Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the battery-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.

  58. Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the phone,  angling it as shown. This will help loosen the flex cable adhesive.
    • Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the phone, angling it as shown. This will help loosen the flex cable adhesive.

  59. Slide an opening pick underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating the cable from the rear case. Gently slide the pick toward the outside edge of the iPhone (away from the battery). Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating the cable from the rear case.

    • Gently slide the pick toward the outside edge of the iPhone (away from the battery).

    • Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.

    • If needed, use your hair dryer or iOpener repeatedly to re-heat the area behind the Lightning connector assembly flex cable in order to make it easier to separate.

  60. Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way. Keep the battery connector gently folded out of the way to avoid damaging it. Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
    • Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.

    • Keep the battery connector gently folded out of the way to avoid damaging it.

    • Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

    • Stop sliding the pick once it passes the lower edge of the battery.

  61. Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the cable towards the Lightning connector. Stop sliding the pick when it reaches the Lightning connector.
    • Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the cable towards the Lightning connector.

    • Stop sliding the pick when it reaches the Lightning connector.

  62. Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case. Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.
    • Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.

  63. Slide an opening pick below the Lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick until the Lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the bottom of the rear case.
    • Slide an opening pick below the Lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.

    • Continue to slide the pick until the Lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the bottom of the rear case.

  64. Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly. Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly.
    • Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly.

  65. Remove the Lightning connector assembly. Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly: Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case. You can use some high concentration isopropyl alcohol to help clean the surface.
    • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

    • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case. You can use some high concentration isopropyl alcohol to help clean the surface.

    • Before removing the adhesive backing, make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned by aligning the hole in the flex cable with the screw post. If the cable is misaligned, you won't be able to reconnect it to the logic board.

  66. A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly. Check to see if your new part comes with an antenna converter cable. If it doesn't, use the point of your spudger to pry up and transfer the cable from your old Lightning assembly to the new one.
    • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

    • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

    • Check to see if your new part comes with an antenna converter cable. If it doesn't, use the point of your spudger to pry up and transfer the cable from your old Lightning assembly to the new one.

结论

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, and follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

46等其他人完成本指南。

Arthur Shi

于2018年01月03日注册

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I love how you mention the “antenna converter cable” twice but never show what the &&^& that part even looks like??

I only hate Humans. - 回复

Sorry about that! It’s actually shown in the 3rd image in the last step. I cropped the photo so that it’s zoomed in more to show it.

Arthur Shi -

I would HIGHLY recommend not attempting this fix. I have done a variety of repairs on iPhones (screens, batteries, etc.) and decided to try this to address a broken microphone. I could make regular phone calls but couldn’t use speakerphone or FaceTime. After replacing the lightening charger using the instructions and the iFixit parts, I still can’t use the speakerphone or FaceTime function. To make matters worse, my phone won’t charge through the lightening connector, won’t wirelessly charge, and people can’t hear me even when I make a regular phone call anymore. In other words, I started with one fairly minor problem and, due to this repair, have a whole bunch of new (much more significant) issues. Don’t make the same mistake I did.

Aaron Nelson - 回复

Excelente guía..!!

Jorge Lonjedo - 回复

It the port paired to the phone? like Touch ID, or can you just replace it without and issue?

Robinson Shaffer - 回复

Hi Robinson,

The port is not paired to the phone.

Arthur Shi -

Phone doesn’t turn on. Is there any other tips??

carl mercado - 回复

Hi Carl,

You can try some common troubleshooting tips. Hopefully that will resolve the issue. If not, please browse and post on our Answers forum.

Arthur Shi -

Excellent guide. Took just over 1 hour to complete, phone charges and earphones work again. This is my daughters phone so she is very happy.

David Dunsire - 回复

Im having an issue where whenever i attach the lightning cord connector the screen wont turn on but when i detach it the screen will turn on, is there anyway to fix this?

Sara A - 回复

Repair completed using this guide and the iFixit kit. Took me quite a bit longer than 2 hours (I spent almost an hour making sure ALL the old glue was off before fitting a new seal!) but with the help of the magnetic project board the job went perfectly and I can now charge my phone again. Speaking of the project board, I would consider this an absolute essential to complete this job. The phone has to be pretty much taken apart and you end up with a multitude of differing length/type screws which are easy to mix up….and it’s not that easy to tell a 1.2mm screw from a 1.3mm screw!

Lacy Kyle - 回复

Well, that was a pain in the ass… But it works!:)

Trym Thorén - 回复

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