简介
使用本指南对Home键排线进行更换也包括Home键。更换Home键本身，点击这里 [指南|23102|Home键更换指南]。
你所需要的
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在拆解之前将手机关机。
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拧掉 2 颗在 Lightning 接口两侧的 3.8mm P2防撬螺丝
I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.
Jim Thomas - 回复
My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.
@codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.
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合拢iSclack的手柄，打开吸盘口。
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把手机底部放入吸盘口，并抵在塑料深度计上。
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上方的吸盘口不要覆盖在Home键上。
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打开iSclack的手柄合拢吸盘口。按压手柄使得吸盘口贴合在手机表面和底部中线上。
I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.
Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!
@mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.
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握好机器合拢iSclack手柄分离吸盘口，把屏幕从后盖上拉开。
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iSclack致力于安全的打开iPhone，仅仅是完全分离部件而不会损坏排线。
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可以跳过接下来的3步从第8步开始。
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把吸盘贴合在屏幕上，Home键的正前方。
cool i diden't now
very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.
bromanmoon - 回复
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一只手用撬棒下压机器，另一只手轻轻的拉起吸盘使前置面板从后盖上分离出来。
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当你拉起吸盘时，使用塑料撬棒轻轻的下压后盖使屏幕与机身分离。
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打开屏幕竖起大约90°角，把屏幕竖起依靠在某些物品上。
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需要的话，可以使用未打开的罐装饮料支持住屏幕。
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用橡皮筋固定住屏幕，这样可以避免过度紧绷屏幕排线。
I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!
What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?
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拧掉主板上用于固定电池排线的金属屏蔽罩上的2颗1.6mm PH000号螺丝。
These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!
I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?
Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.
It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.
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用撬棒或干净的手指甲挑开主板上的电池排线。
Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.
Jona Wolff - 回复
Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.
Peter Hill - 回复
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拧掉主板上固定前置面板排线金属屏蔽罩上十字PH000螺丝：
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2颗1.3mm的螺丝
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1颗1.7mm的螺丝
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1颗3.25mm的螺丝
I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.
I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.
I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly
good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).
When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?
no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.
did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.
Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.
*warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.
Hi Ali,
You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.
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用撬棒或干净的手指甲挑开前置摄像头排线和感应器排线。
You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.
In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.
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用撬棒或干净的手指甲来断开LCD线缆链接头。
I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!
This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.
vince -
Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.
There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.
Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:
Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.
Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.
Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.
Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.
Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?
Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...
duston -
When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.
The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.
If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.
iBroke -
I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?
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拧掉屏幕上用于固定Home键金属屏蔽罩上的2颗1.3mm飞利浦000号螺丝。
Ok the screw are just the 2 highlighted in red. Note that if you fix them too tight the button will lose some space. I suggest to fix them tight and then to unscrew them of 180° just to remove some pressure. Then try the home button movement: if it’s ok go ahead otherwise if it has no freedom to move unscrew again a little bit
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用塑料撬棒从边缘挑开屏幕上Home键排线。
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从右向左挑开接触点。
If you have an iOpener, I STRONGLY suggest placing it on top to loosen the glue. Once I heated the surface, it came off with little difficulty.
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从屏幕上取下Home键排线。
Wenn der Home Button nach dem Austausch immer noch nicht funktioniert, sollte man sich die beiden kleinen Kontakte anschauen, die auf der Platine an einem Flachbandkabel sind und auf die in dieser Anleitung zu sehenden messingfarbenen Kontakte drücken. Ist einer dieser beiden Kontakte defekt, muss man den Lightning Anschluss ersetzen. Kostet zwar unter 5€, ist aber ziemlich aufwändig, da der Akku ausgebaut werden muss.
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请倒序重组你的设备。
请倒序重组你的设备。
48等其他人完成本指南。
7条评论
Good instructions; I did managed to disconnect the lcd connector, but easy enough to pop back in again. No luck on getting my home button to work though - maybe the button was the thing that needed replacing.
bairandrea - 回复
This guide should be named "How To Remove The Home Button Ribbon Cable". Saying that this guide is "How To Replace..." is misleading because there are no steps that show how to install a new home button which should include how to reinstall the cable while reapplying soft adhesive. Also, steps 9-16 are not relevant to this guide. Looks like the repair tech and the web developer need to talk to each other. The web developer should have required the tech to perform a dry run of the steps posted which is a standard web development process.
As stated in the guide conclusion, installation/replacement is the reverse of removal. The replacement ribbon cable will already have the adhesive applied; there's no need to overcomplicate things with additional steps. Steps 9-11 are for disconnecting the battery, which is standard procedure for working on consumer electronics. Steps 12-16 can be skipped if you are comfortable working on the home button while the display is still attached, but you risk damaging your display ribbon cables if you're not careful, turning a $15 repair into a $75 repair.
The ribbon I received has a small white piece of paper on it. Do I have to remove that to get to the adhesive ?
Yes, you have to remove the piece of paper or plastic to install the new cable.
Skyynet -
in step 18 there is a screw attached to the metal back plate in the picture to the right top of the home button ribbon cable. In picture 19 it is not shown. does this need to be removed also?
@cfgjm1 It’s not related to replacing the home button components, so if that’s all you’re doing you can leave it alone. The screw didn’t go anywhere BTW—it’s just blocked from view by the home button cable in Step 19.
