简介

使用本指南对iPhone 5c听筒进行更换,可以从小的iPad拆下来然后装到适用的iPhone上。

  1. 如果屏幕的盖板碎裂并且有玻璃的碎屑,为了保护自己用胶带把玻璃碎屑贴住。
    • 如果屏幕的盖板碎裂并且有玻璃的碎屑,为了保护自己用胶带把玻璃碎屑贴住。

    • 用胶布贴住整块屏幕固定住玻璃碎屑。

    • 这样玻璃面板和屏幕支架会被保存当你撬起和取下屏幕时。

    • 戴好防护眼镜保护眼睛当你进行维修时,避免玻璃碎屑飞溅。

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  2. 在开始之前,将手机电池电量放电至25%以下。充满电的锂电池会起火或者爆炸如果不小心捅破的话。
    • 在开始之前,将手机电池电量放电至25%以下。充满电的锂电池会起火或者爆炸如果不小心捅破的话。

    • 在拆解之前关闭手机电源。

    • 拧掉 2 颗在 Lightning 接口两侧 3.8mm P2防撬螺丝

    to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

    V. Jones - 回复

    • 接下来两步目的是展示如何使用iSclack起屏器,一种很安全的工具打开iPhone 5c的屏幕,也推荐用于其他任何手机不仅仅是iPhone 5、iPhone 5s、iPhone 5c。如果你没使用iSclack起屏器,跳到步骤5。

    • 合拢iSclack的手柄,打开吸盘口。

    • 把手机底部放入吸盘口,并抵在塑料深度计上。

    • 上方的吸盘口不要覆盖在Home键上。

    • 打开iSclack的手柄合拢吸盘口。按压手柄使得吸盘口贴合在手机表面和底部中线上。

    I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

    V. Jones - 回复

    Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

    Michael W Mason - 回复

    @mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 握好机器合拢iSclack手柄分离吸盘口,把屏幕从后盖上拉开。

    • iSclack致力于安全的打开iPhone,仅仅是完全分离部件而不会损坏排线。

    • 取下iPhone上的两个吸盘。

    • 可以跳过接下来的3步从第8步开始。

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    • 把吸盘贴合在屏幕上,Home键的正前方。

    • 确保吸盘口紧密的贴合在屏幕上。

    very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

    bromanmoon - 回复

    • 确定吸盘牢固的贴合在前置面板上。

    • 一只手用撬棒下压机器,另一只手轻柔的拉起吸盘使前置面板从后盖上分离出来。

    • 慢慢的使匀力稳当的拉起吸盘。屏幕是装配得最紧的比起大多数部件来说。

    • 当你拉起吸盘时,使用塑料撬棒轻轻的下压后盖是屏幕分离出来。

    • 有好几个卡扣在前置面板和后盖之间,所以需要组合使用吸盘和塑料撬棒使前置面板分离出来。

    Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

    Dan - 回复

    Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

    duston -

    The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

    V. Jones - 回复

    • 拉起小点释放吸盘的真空密闭空间。

    • 从屏幕上取下吸盘。

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    • 挑开在前置面板底部、机身顶部附近的的Home键排线。

    • 打开屏幕竖起大约90°角,把屏幕竖起依靠在什么东西上当拆解机器时。

    • 在必要时,可以使用未打开的罐装饮料支持住屏幕。

    • 用橡皮筋固定住屏幕当你拆解机器时。这样可以避免过度紧绷屏幕排线。

    Using a can works really well!

    Amy Dachs - 回复

    • 拧掉主板上用于固定电池排线的金属屏蔽罩上的2颗1.6mm飞利浦000号螺丝。

    These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

    Joe Shirghio - 回复

    I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

    Michael Allen - 回复

    Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 取下电池排线的金属屏蔽罩。

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    • 用撬棒或干净的手指甲挑开主板上的电池排线。

    • 请小心仅将排线插头挑起即可,不要挑起插座。如果您挑起了主板上的插座,可能会导致插座和周围元件的损坏

    Why do we need to disconnect the battery?

    Maria Raesch - 回复

    Sorry, I missed the comments on step 9 that detail the procedure.

    Maria Raesch - 回复

    Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

    Jona Wolff - 回复

    Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

    Peter Hill - 回复

    • 拧掉主板上固定前置面板排线金属屏蔽罩上十字#000螺丝:

      • 2颗1.3mm的螺丝

      • 1颗1.7mm的螺丝

      • 1颗3.25mm的螺丝

      • 记住这些螺丝的位置是很重要的对于重组机器时来说。错误的把3.25mm螺丝或者1.7mm螺丝拧在右下角会对主板造成不可修复的损伤使得iPhone无法开机。

      • 螺丝不要拧太紧。如果拧紧螺丝时很困难可能是使用了错误规格的螺丝刀,请不要使用蛮力。

    In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

    Siegbert Waldner - 回复

    DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

    Alister Malcolm - 回复

    I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

    jacobstevens - 回复

    I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

    Fredrick Apel - 回复

    I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

    K Jansen - 回复

    good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

    travismlive -

    When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

    Chandler Perez - 回复

    no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

    akronymus -

    did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

    matt - 回复

    *warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

    akronymus - 回复

    • 从主板上取下固定前置面板排线的金属屏蔽罩。

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    • 用撬棒或手指甲挑开前置摄像头排线和感应器排线。

    • 注意仅挑开排线即可,不要撬到主板上的插座。

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    • 在您进行本步骤操作需要连接或者断开线缆时请确保电池保持在断开的状态。

    • 使用塑料打开工具或者指甲来断开LCD线缆链接头。

    • 显示排线和触摸排线是联在一起的,所以必须同时挑开2根排线。再次检查2根排线是否都已近挑开在取下屏幕前。

    • 当重装机器时,显示排线可能会跑偏扣在座子上。白屏或者有条纹就是因为排线没扣好。如果出现这样的情况,重新扣排线和重启iPhone即可。最好的办法是,重置电池:挑开电池排线然后再扣上即可。

    I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

    Harold Wallner - 回复

    This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

    vince -

    Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

    terrymccallum -

    There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

    Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

    Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

    Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

    Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

    Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

    Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

    piet - 回复

    Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

    duston -

    When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

    The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

    jimbbo - 回复

    If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

    iBroke -

    • 从后盖上取下下前置面板。

    Very clear and percise.

    Jessica Fader - 回复

    • 拧掉屏幕上用于固定前面板部件屏蔽罩上的2颗飞利浦000号螺丝:

      • 1颗4.2mm的螺丝

      • 1颗2.3mm的螺丝

    When putting the 4.2mm screw back in don't screw until it gets to tight to screw any more otherwise you will strip the screw and put a hole in the screen probably cracking it screw it in just enough so that the microphone is held in

    KAksjsjdjsjsjsjamammwm - 回复

    I purchased the complete screen so I stopped at this point but with my surprise the part from Ifixit was slightly different from the original: just on the left of the square microphone there was an added contact for grounding which does not exist in the original screen. I was afraid this could avoid the screen to bw put in place but at the end I was successfull in any case so… don’t panic: if the screen from Ifixit has this small little finger for grounding it can be mounted with no problem!

    Francesco Garuti - 回复

    • 用平口撬棒的边缘撬起屏幕上的听筒屏蔽罩。

    Be gentle with the speaker bracket, there are 2 small parts at the top of it which bend rather easily.

    Eddie - 回复

    It's hooked at the top so slide the bracket straight to the right before lifting up.

    Mark Brown - 回复

    What’s not mentioned is there is a little arm on that bracket - so as you should slide it to the right to remove it, you also have to slide it left as you put it back in. If you don’t, it doesn’t sit properly, and when you screw in the 4.2mm screw, the bracket will buckle inwards. That’s how you know it’s not inserted properly.

    domarius - 回复

    • 从屏幕上取下听筒。

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结论

请倒序重组你的设备。

61等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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Everything went well; ordered the parts and tools from iFixit. The screws are super tiny and was too lazy to fully clean my counter before starting. One screw was almost lost. Next time I'll fully clean the counter to account for those wayward screws. My wife is happy with her new ear speaker.

StevenC - 回复

Ganz tolle Anleitung zur Reparatur des Lautsprechers. Vielen Dank!

andreasirsigler - 回复

excellent guide, thank you. The earpiece speaker worked for at least one call after the procedure, but is now back to not working, so it may be a software issue afterall...

r3woods - 回复

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