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简介

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the display assembly in an iPad Pro 12.9", or to access other internal components for servicing.

Note that the Home Button installed in your original display assembly is paired to the iPad's logic board, and will need to be removed and transferred to the new display to retain Touch ID functionality.

Before beginning, check to see if your replacement part has a daughterboard adhered to its back. If so, this guide will work for you. Otherwise, you will need to transfer the board from the old display to the new one. Transferring the daughterboard from the original to replacement unit will require specialty microsoldering equipment and we recommend DIY users source a new part rather than attempt the procedure.

Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.

Warning: the battery isolation method in this guide is outdated, and may result in irreversible damage to the battery pins of the logic board, effectively destroying it. If you choose to isolate the battery this way, heed all warnings and work extremely carefully. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 回复

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 回复

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 回复

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 回复

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 回复

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 回复

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 回复

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 回复

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 回复

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - 回复

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - 回复

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - 回复

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 回复

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 回复

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 回复

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 回复

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 回复

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 回复

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - 回复

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 回复

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 回复

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 回复

  4. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

  5. Removing the display assembly involves using a halberd spudger or opening pick to separate the adhesive securing the display to the rear case. Use the photos in this step to know the locations of the adhesive and where it is the thickest. Refer to these images while following the guide to see where the adhesive is thickest and where to cut the deepest with your opening tool.
    • Removing the display assembly involves using a halberd spudger or opening pick to separate the adhesive securing the display to the rear case.

    • Use the photos in this step to know the locations of the adhesive and where it is the thickest.

    • Refer to these images while following the guide to see where the adhesive is thickest and where to cut the deepest with your opening tool.

  6. Lay the hot iOpener over the left edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive holding it in place.
    • Lay the hot iOpener over the left edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive holding it in place.

    • Alternatively, use a heat gun, hair dryer, or heat pad to heat the perimeter of your iPad.

    • Wait about two minutes for the adhesive to soften before proceeding to the next step.

  7. Attach a suction handle to the left edge of the iPad's display, equidistant from the top and bottom corners.
    • Attach a suction handle to the left edge of the iPad's display, equidistant from the top and bottom corners.

  8. While holding down the corners of the device, repeatedly pull up on the display then ease it back down to weaken the adhesive. Once you've opened a small gap between the front panel and the rear case, insert the blade of a halberd spudger or an opening pick in the gap you've created. Do not insert the pick more than 2 millimeters. Going any farther will permanently damage the display assembly. If using a halberd spudger, slice with the shortest part of the blade.
    • While holding down the corners of the device, repeatedly pull up on the display then ease it back down to weaken the adhesive.

    • Once you've opened a small gap between the front panel and the rear case, insert the blade of a halberd spudger or an opening pick in the gap you've created.

    • Do not insert the pick more than 2 millimeters. Going any farther will permanently damage the display assembly. If using a halberd spudger, slice with the shortest part of the blade.

  9. Lay a hot iOpener along the bottom left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the home button. After letting the adhesive soften, insert a halberd spudger into the iPad next to the opening pick. An opening pick can be used in place of the halberd spudger.  Use caution if using an opening pick, as inserting the pick too far can damage the display assembly.
    • Lay a hot iOpener along the bottom left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the home button.

    • After letting the adhesive soften, insert a halberd spudger into the iPad next to the opening pick.

    • An opening pick can be used in place of the halberd spudger. Use caution if using an opening pick, as inserting the pick too far can damage the display assembly.

    • Cut the adhesive along the bottom left side of the iPad using the halberd spudger. This may require reheating the edge of the iPad.

    • Continue to slide the halberd spudger back and forth to ensure most of the adhesive is separated.

  10. Insert a pick in the bottom left corner of the iPad to ensure that the adhesive doesn't completely reset. Remove the halberd spudger.
    • Insert a pick in the bottom left corner of the iPad to ensure that the adhesive doesn't completely reset.

    • Remove the halberd spudger.

  11. Lay a hot iOpener along the upper left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the front-facing camera. After letting the adhesive soften, insert the blade of your halberd spudger into the iPad above the opening pick. Cut the adhesive along the upper left side of the iPad towards the front-facing camera using the halberd spudger. This may require reheating the edge of the iPad.
    • Lay a hot iOpener along the upper left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the front-facing camera.

    • After letting the adhesive soften, insert the blade of your halberd spudger into the iPad above the opening pick.

    • Cut the adhesive along the upper left side of the iPad towards the front-facing camera using the halberd spudger. This may require reheating the edge of the iPad.

  12. Insert a pick in the upper left corner of the iPad. Remove the halberd spudger. Remove the halberd spudger.
    • Insert a pick in the upper left corner of the iPad.

    • Remove the halberd spudger.

  13. Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften. Once the front panel is adequately heated, insert the blade of a halberd spudger next to the opening pick from the previous step. Slide the blade along the top edge of the iPad, stopping before reaching the front-facing camera.
    • Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften.

    • Once the front panel is adequately heated, insert the blade of a halberd spudger next to the opening pick from the previous step.

    • Slide the blade along the top edge of the iPad, stopping before reaching the front-facing camera.

  14. Insert an opening pick just before the front-facing camera. Insert an opening pick just before the front-facing camera.
    • Insert an opening pick just before the front-facing camera.

  15. If necessary, reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften before reinserting the blade of the halberd spudger. Insert the blade of the halberd spudger just past the front-facing camera, on the opposite side of the opening pick. Continue to slide the blade of the halberd spudger to the upper right corner of the iPad.
    • If necessary, reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften before reinserting the blade of the halberd spudger.

    • Insert the blade of the halberd spudger just past the front-facing camera, on the opposite side of the opening pick.

    • Continue to slide the blade of the halberd spudger to the upper right corner of the iPad.

  16. Bring the halberd spudger around the corner of the iPad and insert an opening pick in the upper right corner to prevent the adhesive from resettling. Bring the halberd spudger around the corner of the iPad and insert an opening pick in the upper right corner to prevent the adhesive from resettling.
    • Bring the halberd spudger around the corner of the iPad and insert an opening pick in the upper right corner to prevent the adhesive from resettling.

  17. Soften the adhesive by heating the right edge of the iPad using an iOpener. Continue using the halberd spudger to cut away the adhesive holding the display assembly in place, stopping at the middle of the right edge.
    • Soften the adhesive by heating the right edge of the iPad using an iOpener.

    • Continue using the halberd spudger to cut away the adhesive holding the display assembly in place, stopping at the middle of the right edge.

  18. Remove the pick that was placed in the middle of the top edge of the iPad, next to the front-facing camera. If you have extra opening picks or similar tools you do not need to remove this one. Insert that pick in the middle of the right edge of the iPad.
    • Remove the pick that was placed in the middle of the top edge of the iPad, next to the front-facing camera.

    • If you have extra opening picks or similar tools you do not need to remove this one.

    • Insert that pick in the middle of the right edge of the iPad.

  19. Insert the halberd spudger between the display and rear case, along the right edge of the device. Slide the halberd spudger down the side of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
    • Insert the halberd spudger between the display and rear case, along the right edge of the device.

    • Slide the halberd spudger down the side of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  20. Bring the blade of your opening tool around the lower right corner of the device. Insert a pick in the lower right corner of the iPad where you slid the blade through.
    • Bring the blade of your opening tool around the lower right corner of the device.

    • Insert a pick in the lower right corner of the iPad where you slid the blade through.

    • Remove the halberd spudger.

  21. Use an iOpener to heat the bottom of the iPad. Insert the blade of a halberd spudger to the left of the opening pick  on the bottom right corner of the iPad. Slide the halberd spudger along the lower edge of the iPad stopping  short about 1 centimeter before reaching the home button.
    • Use an iOpener to heat the bottom of the iPad.

    • Insert the blade of a halberd spudger to the left of the opening pick on the bottom right corner of the iPad.

    • Slide the halberd spudger along the lower edge of the iPad stopping short about 1 centimeter before reaching the home button.

  22. Remove the pick in the middle of the left side of the iPad. If you have extra opening picks or similar tools you do not need to remove this one. Insert the pick to the right of home button.
    • Remove the pick in the middle of the left side of the iPad.

    • If you have extra opening picks or similar tools you do not need to remove this one.

    • Insert the pick to the right of home button.

  23. Pivot the halberd spudger so that you are slicing with the shortest portion of the blade. Slide the halberd spudger to cut the adhesive below the home button.
    • Pivot the halberd spudger so that you are slicing with the shortest portion of the blade.

    • Slide the halberd spudger to cut the adhesive below the home button.

  24. Reinsert the blade of the halberd spudger as deep as it will go. Continue sliding the blade along the edge until you reach the first opening pick you inserted.
    • Reinsert the blade of the halberd spudger as deep as it will go.

    • Continue sliding the blade along the edge until you reach the first opening pick you inserted.

  25. Return to step 5 of this guide and ensure the thick portions of adhesive are adequately separated from the display assembly. If they are, continue with this step. Otherwise, slice the adhesive to break it up until the display assembly is freed. The display cables in this iPad are shorter than some users may be comfortable with. Read the following warnings before proceeding:
    • Return to step 5 of this guide and ensure the thick portions of adhesive are adequately separated from the display assembly. If they are, continue with this step. Otherwise, slice the adhesive to break it up until the display assembly is freed.

    • The display cables in this iPad are shorter than some users may be comfortable with. Read the following warnings before proceeding:

    • Do not pivot the display about the lower edge. The display cables do not have enough slack to allow for this and will tear if you do not slide the display towards the front-facing camera as you lift.

    • The display cables will tear if you raise the display more than 80º.

    • Lift up the upper edge of the display and slide it towards the front-facing camera to access the iPads internal components.

  26. It's important to disconnect the battery before you proceed further. Detaching or connecting the display cables with the battery plugged in can cause a short that will destroy touchscreen functionality.
    • It's important to disconnect the battery before you proceed further. Detaching or connecting the display cables with the battery plugged in can cause a short that will destroy touchscreen functionality.

    • To disconnect the battery:

    • First, securely prop up the display so that it won't fall or strain the display cables while you work.

    • Then, remove the nine Phillips screws securing the logic board EMI shield:

    • Eight 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    Middle left, look at the 2 connecting ribbon wires as what I’m looking at in my hand is that ones L shaped with the 2 ports male and the cracked screen has different pins and in not seating properly?

    Matthew Newton - 回复

    So my brother and I were connecting the ribbon cables and we totally forgot to put the plastic tool back in which separates the battery. There was a spark and when we got everything back together the touch screen wasn’t fuctioning. So we definitely messed that up. Is there a component that we can replace to fix that? Or did we totally destroy this iPad?

    derickgoebel - 回复

    You have to have it microsoldered to fix it. You can take it somewhere locally or send it off to get it done.

    ericandjenallen -

    I forgot to disconnect the battery. I have not put my new screen back. Is it too late ( is my touchscreen function for sure damaged now)? If so, what can I do? I have disconnected and insulated the battery now…but is it too late?

    thomas yanowsky - 回复

    Yes is the answer. Keep an insulator under the battery connector. Don’t skip step 26-29 before removing or installing display connectors.

    thomas yanowsky - 回复

  27. Lift the logic board EMI shield from the edge nearest the top of the iPad. Peel the EMI shield up from the logic board. This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That's okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when reinstalled and screwed down.
    • Lift the logic board EMI shield from the edge nearest the top of the iPad.

    • Peel the EMI shield up from the logic board.

    • This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That's okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when reinstalled and screwed down.

    • Remove the logic board EMI shield.

  28. Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector.
    • Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector.

  29. Insert a Battery Blocker or other insulator underneath the logic board to separate it from the battery connector. The battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board. If you use this method, take extreme care to insert it gently and straight in the direction of the logic board. Don't significantly deform the the logic board as you do this. Don't twist or swing the pick side to side. Leave it there to prevent the battery connector leads from making contact until you have completed your repairs.
    • Insert a Battery Blocker or other insulator underneath the logic board to separate it from the battery connector.

    • The battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board. If you use this method, take extreme care to insert it gently and straight in the direction of the logic board. Don't significantly deform the the logic board as you do this. Don't twist or swing the pick side to side.

    • Leave it there to prevent the battery connector leads from making contact until you have completed your repairs.

    • The rest of the images in this guide show the logic board EMI shield reinstalled, which is incorrect. Follow the instructions, but keep the battery disconnected and do not reinstall the EMI shield until your repairs are complete.

    What is a safe alternative to using a battery blocker?

    Jeremy Spencer - 回复

    Hi Jeremy, I use a guitar plectrum.

    Go for the thinnest possible. These are easier to wedge in between battery and motherboard (+ less risk on damaging something).

    Dreetn - 回复

  30. While supporting the display assembly, remove the following three Phillips screws over the display cable bracket. 2.4 mm Phillips screw 1.2 mm Phillips screw
    • While supporting the display assembly, remove the following three Phillips screws over the display cable bracket.

    • 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • 1.2 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  31. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display data and digitizer cables from their respective sockets on the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display data and digitizer cables from their respective sockets on the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display data and digitizer cables from their respective sockets on the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display data and digitizer cables from their respective sockets on the motherboard.

    which of the two connectors is the digitizer cable?

    elsa - 回复

  32. Remove the display assembly.

    Would be really nice if the adhesive strip kit for the screen included the adhesive bits needed to secure the existing home button to the new screen (or a new home button to an existing screen).

    Marc Nelson - 回复

    Great, I followed the tutorial and succeeded to repair my iPad Pro 1st gen.

    I bought the pieces from https://www.unionrepair.com a little bit less expensive, making the rewear worth the spending.

    http://hebus.ovh/cimages/iPadOpened.jpeg

    http://hebus.ovh/cimages/displayRemoved....

    http://hebus.ovh/cimages/repeared.jpeg

    I took a black one with my original white home button … make it unique now ;)

    Cheers

    Serpieri - 回复

    Great guide! I will add that on my iPad Pro 1st gen, I had to peel back the EMI cover material to Expose the last few screws. This is not listed as a separate step and I almost damaged my EMI board. Just a heads up to improve the guide!

    Brian Crea - 回复

结论

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

72等其他人完成本指南。

Evan Noronha

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Hello there OK so I have 2 screens with 2 different connectors one L shaped (which is on the new screen) and the old cracked screen has a rectangular type? I’m not sure rather it’s a 1gen/2nd gen type of problem? I’m about to grab my hot air gun to completely disassemble the cracked screen, as maybe I’m missing something? Any assistance is welcome… well actually please help me with this before I get a headache since this has totally frustrated me and i’ve had this sitting for nearly 2 1/2 months now but it’s about that time that I readdress this in attempt to fix it.

Matthew Newton - 回复

Hi, does your replacement screen have the home button assembly included? Otherwise there's need of soldering the assembly to it before it can be installed.

Dreetn -

hi

does anyone knows why there is a foam adhesive in thr back of the screen ? do i need to put back when i replaxe screen ?

thanks

screensguy - 回复

I suppose the foam adhesive is similar to the one on the back of the 6s screens. I guess it has more of a heat dissipation function or is meant to absorb any pointy pressure points from inside that may develop (loose screw, sand, dirt...)

Dreetn -

hi

hope someone can help . i tested couple of screens before fitting them in they were working but once tech close it there no touch or black lcd (backlight on but no image )

NB : they disconnect battery before connecting Screen

screensguy - 回复

If you don't have this problem while the assembly is still loose, my best guess is that you have an unwanted contact somewhere, causing a short circuit or malfunction. Perhaps in the bending of the flex?

Dreetn -

Removing the screen takes a great degree of patience. You apply heat, and pull on the suction cup, and for a long time nothing seems to happen. Do not try to replace time with force at this point keep heating and pulling on various areas, you will get separation. It took 5 or 6 heating/pulling cycles to start to see results. Then you can work your way around.

oclark - 回复

MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT INSERT ANY CARDS/PICKS/SPUDGERS MORE THAN 1/4 inch tops!! YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SCREEN. Just replaced the battery in my iPad Pro 12.9 (A1652). Unfortunately I did not read this until completed. I now have several areas on my $1000 iPad where the white screen has orange burn looking marks around the edges. Looks like it was a $200 oops. Live and Learn. I’m now a member and will utilize this website for future endeavors…

Dave Ryberg - 回复

You know any workshop who does a repair for my three iPad Pro 12.9 front glasses with the digitizer,

Sometimes the process is called OCA refurbishment oder LCD refurbishment.

NOT the display-unit as a whole. I have two models from 2015 and one from 2017. The model numbers are a 1584 and  a 1670.

 In Germany there are a few companies who are able to do it, but not affordable. The prices are nearly as high as a complete swap of the display unit.

giuseppe naniscola - 回复

Just wondering, I work in a repair shop, and am replacing the front panel entirely but unfortunately screwed up soldering the daughterboard. Is this a part they MUST be transferred or am I safe to just replace it?

Zane Clark - 回复

Hello.

Is it possible to change only the “Glas” and not the Display? My display works fine but the Protecting Glas is broken.

sim sem - 回复

Hi, that’s possible for very, very experienced technicians. Not only do you need to heat up the screen quite a lot to soften up the LOCA glue, but furthermore you need to cut it with a cutting wire while making sure not to damage the LCD underneath. I also fear the iPad pro will probably require some micro-soldering to be able to (dis)connect the glass from all the rest (but perhaps I’m confusing things with the first screen modules in mind that came out but still needed some micro-soldering to finish them of at that time). In short, if you haven’t separated touchscreens/glass plates several times before … don’t even think about it. The above is only half the trouble to go through as the new touchscreen/glass needs to be attached to the LCD again with new LOCA glue afterwards. Again a job which requires a lot of expertise.

Dreetn -

I used this guide to replace a screen for my iPad Pro. The device powers on but now gets stuck in a boot loop. I took it to a local phone repair shop and they said they don’t do repairs on iPad Pros because they always get stuck in boot loops. I wish there was a warning on this guide telling people this so they don’t go to all the effort and spend money on a new screen just to get their iPad stuck in a boot loop.

Brandon der Blatter - 回复

Brandon, I don’t know of any specific ‘sensitivity’ that iPad Pro’s have towards repairing that would result in bootloops.

I think it is more likely that either

- The repair shop isn’t keen on repairing your device because parts are expensive and/or difficult to find (for instance motherboard parts). They just tell you a believable story to avoid having to say ‘Too risky’ or ‘Not worth our effort/time’.

- Something got damaged during the repair.

Another possibility, which you can easily put aside yourself, is software damage. Try a full restore (without data retention) with tools such as 3uTools. It’s free software. I advise using the iTunes restore method. You can first try a restore with ‘retain user’s data’ but success ratio is minimal there. Best is to go for a clean flash/restore.

Good luck!

Dreetn -

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