The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.
Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.
Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.
The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.
If the home button ribbon cable sticks to the iPad's rear case, don't try to force it. Gently peel it off the case using a pair of tweezers, and then you can fully remove the front panel assembly.
If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.
The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.
Finish wedging up the upper battery cell using the above procedure by inserting cards along the left edge of the upper battery cell (the edge opposite the logic board).
Don't use any cards to pry under the battery from the top edge of the iPad, or you may damage the upper case components.
Repeat the above procedure to separate the second, lower battery cell from the rear case.
Insert your cards only from the top edge of the battery cell and from the side opposite the logic board. Don't use any cards to pry under the battery from the bottom edge of the iPad, or you may damage ribbon cables for the speakers, antennas, and Lightning connector.
Use an opening pick to slice through the adhesive directly underneath the battery connector terminal.
There's a small standoff in the case that helps seat this connector. The pick may be obstructed by this. Simply work the pick around each side of the standoff to slice through the adhesive.
Stand both battery cells up perpendicular to the iPad.
Clear the standoff by gently rocking the upper cell slightly away from the rear case, and then pulling it to the side (away from the logic board).
You don't need to lift very far (2 or 3 mm). Work carefully and don't put any unnecessary pressure on the logic board. Do not attempt to simply pull the battery straight up, or you may damage the logic board.
Nothing other than what's mentioned in the intro and instructions: this is a soft-shell lithium ion battery, subject to leaking toxic fumes / catching fire / exploding if you accidentally puncture or deform it too aggressively. The same is true of all batteries of this type. Treat it with respect and take appropriate precautions.