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修复你的物品

维修的权力

配件 & 工具

简介

更换iPad 6上损坏或失灵的LCD前面板

  1. 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。 将iOpener放在微波炉中央 。
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 将iOpener放在微波炉中央 。

    • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果转盘卡住了,iOpener可能会过热并燃烧

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - 回复

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - 回复

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 回复

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 回复

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - 回复

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 回复

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 回复

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 回复

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 回复

    I’ve tried for 2 days and cannot get this to work. I should have just taken it to my local iphone fixit shop. This is a frustrating purchase to say the least.

    jeffrey hill - 回复

    Step 1 should be: now that you have looked over the tools of this repair kit, take your ipad to the nearest repair store and let them handle it. Sure you will waste about $65 by purchasing this kit and the cost of the repair but you will not tear your ipad up and you will have at least 2 days of your life that you can spend time with your family.

    jeffrey hill - 回复

    Just replaced the battery in my iPad mini LTE. Followed the Ifix step by step instructions and they worked very well. The only thing i would change is step 42. You do not have to lift the LCD connector from the logic board. So don’t. It’s an unnecessary step. Other then that all was good. It took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish but I took my time and I recommend you take your time also. Very exciting too finish doing it and see it come to life afterwards. Tested everything and everything still works

    Anybody want to buy my iFix battery replacement tool kit only used once cheap?

    kaplang - 回复

    i opener sucks! it’s incapable of heating factory glue enough to take a sealed phone apart and caused my backglass to shatter. i removed it the rest of the way with a soldering iron!

    Elijah Marvin - 回复

    You should, at least, mention which wattage is used for the 30 seconds heating - 750 isn’t enough, obviously. Display shatterered . Thanks.

    dr_baeschtlr - 回复

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

  2. 加热iOpener三十秒
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 在整个维修过程中,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果iOpener过热膨胀,千万不要触碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再使用,加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 回复

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 回复

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 回复

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 回复

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 回复

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 回复

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 回复

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 回复

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 回复

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 回复

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 回复

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 回复

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 回复

  3. 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个以避免碰到中心热的部分。
    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个以避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 回复

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 回复

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

    microwave on WHAT WATTAGE ??? 100 W OR 1600 W ??? NOT THE SAME

    Ivor Pocrnja - 回复

    This was not easy. I finally got a pick under the glass of my moto x4 phone after placing my phone on my kitchen hot plate and letting the hot plate go up to about 160F—measuring with a candy thermometer. I was scared of it(either the phone or the iopener) getting too hot—I checked in with another online video and saw they used a 100C heat gun for 2 min on the left side: When I figured that was 212F I got braver with heating the phone.—My screen and display were already broken. I can’t say exactly how long the phone was on the hot plate at 150-160 because the hotplate annoyingly goes on and off not sustaining a stable temperatureprobably a few

    Nahariyah Mosenkis - 回复

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 回复

  4. 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。
    • 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。

    • 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。

    • 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。

    • 尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但,一旦玻璃破碎,请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃,避免更多的碎裂。

    • 戴上安全眼镜来保护你的眼睛。 小心操作不要损坏了LCD内屏。

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - 回复

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - 回复

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - 回复

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - 回复

  5. 将iOpener放置在iPad左侧。也就是Home键左侧位置。 将iOpener放置至少一分钟来软化玻璃下面的粘合剂。
    • 将iOpener放置在iPad左侧。也就是Home键左侧位置。

    • 将iOpener放置至少一分钟来软化玻璃下面的粘合剂。

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - 回复

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - 回复

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - 回复

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..

    :-)

    carvelera - 回复

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - 回复

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - 回复

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - 回复

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - 回复

  6. 虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。 前置摄像头
    • 虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。

    • 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。

    • 前置摄像头

    • 天线

    • 显示排线

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - 回复

  7. 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧中间的位置。 确保吸盘已经牢牢吸住前玻璃面板。 使用一只手在固定住iPad,另一只手慢慢提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离。
    • 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧中间的位置。

    • 确保吸盘已经牢牢吸住前玻璃面板。

    • 使用一只手在固定住iPad,另一只手慢慢提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离。

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - 回复

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - 回复

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - 回复

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - 回复

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - 回复

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - 回复

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - 回复

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - 回复

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - 回复

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - 回复

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - 回复

  8. 在刚刚打开的缝隙处放置一个撬片。 切勿将撬片插入深度超过黑色边框,这样深入过度可能会使LCD屏幕受损。 然后取下吸盘。
    • 在刚刚打开的缝隙处放置一个撬片。

    • 切勿将撬片插入深度超过黑色边框,这样深入过度可能会使LCD屏幕受损。

    • 然后取下吸盘。

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - 回复

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - 回复

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - 回复

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - 回复

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - 回复

  9. 再次加热iOpener然后放置在刚才的位置。
    • 再次加热iOpener然后放置在刚才的位置。

    • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - 回复

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  10. 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。
    • 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动,让撬片分离粘合剂。

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - 回复

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - 回复

  11. 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后继续进行分离工作。 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后继续进行分离工作。
    • 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。

    • 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后继续进行分离工作。

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - 回复

  12. 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。
    • 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角

    • 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - 回复

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - 回复

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

  13. 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置且高于前置摄像头。
    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置且高于前置摄像头。

    • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    • 如果您有可以弯折的iOpener,您可以弯折其使其同时加热左上角边缘位置。

  14. 任天堂 Switch 套装

    快速恢复到游戏的状态

    购买 Switch 套装

    任天堂 Switch 套装

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    购买 Switch 套装
  15. 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。
    • 在左顶部插入撬片来分离粘合剂。

  16. 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。
    • 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下

    • 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。

    • 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。

  17. 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。
    • 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。

  18. 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。 拿另一片撬片插入到摄像头的左侧位置然后滑动到转角位置,完成对该边缘部分的粘合剂分离工作。 拿另一片撬片插入到摄像头的左侧位置然后滑动到转角位置,完成对该边缘部分的粘合剂分离工作。
    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。

    • 拿另一片撬片插入到摄像头的左侧位置然后滑动到转角位置,完成对该边缘部分的粘合剂分离工作。

  19. 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。
    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。

  20. 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。
    • 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。

    • 重新加热iOpener将其放在有锁定和音量按钮一侧。

  21. 滑动右上角的撬片,分离那部分的粘合剂。 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。     重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。
    • 滑动右上角的撬片,分离那部分的粘合剂。

    • 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。 重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。

  22. 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离粘合剂,滑动到中部位置时停下。 显示排线大约位于iPad底部到顶部一半的位置。 当您从底部向上滑动撬片大概4.5"(约11.43cm)位置时请停止滑动。 显示排线大约位于iPad底部到顶部一半的位置。 当您从底部向上滑动撬片大概4.5"(约11.43cm)位置时请停止滑动。
    • 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离粘合剂,滑动到中部位置时停下。

    • 显示排线大约位于iPad底部到顶部一半的位置。 当您从底部向上滑动撬片大概4.5"(约11.43cm)位置时请停止滑动。

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - 回复

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - 回复

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - 回复

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - 回复

  23. 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener然后放置在iPad的底部。
    • 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener然后放置在iPad的底部。

  24. 滑动左下边的撬片来分离粘合剂。 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。 第三张图片展示了在iPad 下方的2个天线和Home键
    • 滑动左下边的撬片来分离粘合剂。

    • 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。

    • 第三张图片展示了在iPad 下方的2个天线和Home键

    • 接下来的步骤将会指导您如何避免伤害这些部件。 只加热和撬动指南所指示的部位。

  25. 将原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。
    • 将原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。

    • 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。

    • 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。

    • 如果您需要再次滑动来清理粘合剂,请取出撬片然后从外边缘重新插入再向内滑动。

    • 将撬片放置不动。

  26. 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边继续滑动。 滑过Home键和右侧天线。只使用尖端来去除粘合剂。 滑过Home键和右侧天线。只使用尖端来去除粘合剂。
    • 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边继续滑动。

    • 滑过Home键和右侧天线。只使用尖端来去除粘合剂。

  27. 随着粘合剂的松动,您现在可以将撬片插入右下角了。 就和左侧一样,相反方向的滑动可能会损伤天线。 就和左侧一样,相反方向的滑动可能会损伤天线。
    • 随着粘合剂的松动,您现在可以将撬片插入右下角了。

    • 就和左侧一样,相反方向的滑动可能会损伤天线。

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - 回复

  28. 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在有音量按键的一侧。
    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在有音量按键的一侧。

  29. 请小心操作本步骤。  花点时间来确保粘合剂是热并柔软的,并且您已经使用撬片打开了所有开口。 以及不要害怕停止和重新加热。 在音量控制侧面相反的那一面,你应该确保那一面的每个角都已插入撬片。 旋转撬片然后轻轻提起玻璃面板,沿着显示屏排线边缘清理掉最后的粘合剂。
    • 请小心操作本步骤。 花点时间来确保粘合剂是热并柔软的,并且您已经使用撬片打开了所有开口。 以及不要害怕停止和重新加热。

    • 在音量控制侧面相反的那一面,你应该确保那一面的每个角都已插入撬片。 旋转撬片然后轻轻提起玻璃面板,沿着显示屏排线边缘清理掉最后的粘合剂。

    • 如果在此步骤遇到很大的阻力难以撬起屏幕请重新加热iOpener 然后将其放置在难以撬起的区域。

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - 回复

  30. 慢慢的提起玻璃面板,来进一步分离粘合剂。 慢慢的提起玻璃面板,来进一步分离粘合剂。
    • 慢慢的提起玻璃面板,来进一步分离粘合剂。

  31. 在支起玻璃面板的同时,用撬片分离掉最后的粘合剂。 一定要小心操作,不要切割或损坏任何显示排线。 一定要小心操作,不要切割或损坏任何显示排线。
    • 在支起玻璃面板的同时,用撬片分离掉最后的粘合剂。

    • 一定要小心操作,不要切割或损坏任何显示排线。

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - 回复

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - 回复

  32. 一旦粘合剂全部分离掉,就像打开书一样将玻璃面板放在工作台上。 要重新组装时 使用异丙醇清理掉残留的粘合剂,并使用预切割好的粘合胶带来替代去除掉的粘合剂。
    • 一旦粘合剂全部分离掉,就像打开书一样将玻璃面板放在工作台上。

    • 要重新组装时 使用异丙醇清理掉残留的粘合剂,并使用预切割好的粘合胶带来替代去除掉的粘合剂。

    • 再重新组装时,iPad框架和玻璃面板很容易夹住排线,请小心操作将他们轻轻折叠在框架下方,如果操作过当造成损伤那么就会超出你的维修能力。

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - 回复

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - 回复

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - 回复

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - 回复

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - 回复

  33. 移除覆盖在螺丝钉上的胶带 移除覆盖在螺丝钉上的胶带 移除覆盖在螺丝钉上的胶带
    • 移除覆盖在螺丝钉上的胶带

  34. 移除用来固定LCD面板的4颗飞利浦#00 4.3毫米的螺丝钉
    • 移除用来固定LCD面板的4颗飞利浦#00 4.3毫米的螺丝钉

    Both of the iPad 6th gen models i have seen so for (note they were cellular also) had the LCD secured with a grey silicone kind of adhesive in each corner under the screws. So you can’t just lift the LCD as you normally would after removing screws, it would break. I found you could pick at the corner closest to the rear camera easiest, slightly lift that corner and gently separate the other side next to the headphone jack. Then while supporting the LCD , lever the other end free with a up-and-down motion making slight progress each time.

    Anvil Electronics - 回复

    I found the same thing on my 32GB wifi only ipad. Was unable to lift the screen off once I’d removed the screws so followed the instructions above and gently prized the screen up from the top left-hand screw bracket and it came away. Then moved onto the top right hand one.

    mann134 - 回复

  35. 可不要想着完全移除LCD面板哦!许许多多的线缆以及home键仍把它紧紧地连在iPad上。仅仅抬起前置摄像头的那一侧面板。 用撬棒平的那一面将LCD面板从槽中撬开,知道你能用手指捏住它 像翻书一样翻开LCD面板,抬起靠近摄像头的那一侧并把它盖过home键的那一侧
    • 可不要想着完全移除LCD面板哦!许许多多的线缆以及home键仍把它紧紧地连在iPad上。仅仅抬起前置摄像头的那一侧面板。

    • 用撬棒平的那一面将LCD面板从槽中撬开,知道你能用手指捏住它

    • 像翻书一样翻开LCD面板,抬起靠近摄像头的那一侧并把它盖过home键的那一侧

    • 轻轻地!当你翻开面板时注意那些线缆

    • 将LCD面板反放在桌上从而使你够到那些线缆

    • 一定要把面板放到一个柔软干净平整的表面

  36. 移除那一颗用来固定电池到主板的飞利浦#000 2.3毫米的螺丝钉。 为了防止短路,你可以用一个撬板来断开电池 将电池断开撬板滑入主板电池连接器下方,并将它放到适当的地方。
    • 移除那一颗用来固定电池到主板的飞利浦#000 2.3毫米的螺丝钉。

    • 为了防止短路,你可以用一个撬板来断开电池

    • 将电池断开撬板滑入主板电池连接器下方,并将它放到适当的地方。

    If you insert a regular pick without a gap then you can damage this connector and will need a new motherboard. If in doubt just insert into the left corner enough to raise it a tiny bit. Arguably, if you are not sure, then it is safer just power off and don’t power back on until everything is fully connected. A photo of how this connector looks with its cover off would really help for people that have not seen this type of battery connector before. You just need to get it to lift a tiny bit, Do not try to slide anything under the contacts….

    hugh - 回复

  37. 拧开线缆槽上的3颗飞利浦#000 1.4毫米螺丝。
    • 拧开线缆槽上的3颗飞利浦#000 1.4毫米螺丝。

    I believe these are also Phillips #00, not Phillips #000.

    Kevin Chatterton II - 回复

    I lost a 1.4mm screw where can I buy these small screws and how big are they? 1.4mm x? flared or flat head

    ferdinando.gregis@gmail.com - 回复

    Is this part important? It seems like I lost it.

    Will - 回复

  38. 用撬棒平的那一端轻轻从主板上撬开线缆槽上的罩子。 显示屏连接线被粘在罩子下方,所以不要使劲向里推撬棒,否则你会损坏线缆
    • 用撬棒平的那一端轻轻从主板上撬开线缆槽上的罩子。

    • 显示屏连接线被粘在罩子下方,所以不要使劲向里推撬棒,否则你会损坏线缆

  39. 移除LCD屏!
    • 移除LCD屏!

结论

如果你想重新安装你的设备,只要倒着操作这些步骤。

9等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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No comments…. No one is brave enough to attempt this :)

Tal Glazer - 回复

I tried to replace the LCD with the iPad AIR 1 LCD and is NOT compatible. It fits and the connector is the same but shows just like tv static noise.

nazareno valentini - 回复

I replaced the front screen and now the number 9 on the passcode keypad isn’t working. I don’t get it.

Richard Lombardo - 回复

I’m having the same issue! Different numbers, but same issue. Just certain sections of the screen won’t respond to touch.

Adriane Zaic -

I did this (screen replacement) on my iPad 6 LTE about a month ago. Was wicked difficult because my the screen was completely shattered and removing all of the shards was, well, a major PITA. It wasn’t all that bad otherwise as long as you TAKE YOUR TIME getting it apart in the first place. The only real issue I had otherwise was getting it back together with new adhesive strips because the screen doesn’t set on top straight down. You have to almost put one side down with the screen at an angle then lay it down but because of the adhesive strips, you can’t lay it down then adjust it. So that was not fun. Otherwise it wasn’t all that bad IF you are like me and savvy with electronics repair. *** also, once back together and fired up, I have some dead spots where there is zero registration of any touch on the screen. No clue as to why, and it’s frustrating because of the cost of these things and the replacement parts. Better than no usable screen I guess.

Please excuse any typos should you encounter any.

Bryan Purvis - 回复

Hi Bryan,

If you haven’t yet, I would suggest checking two things. It sounds like either the digitizer cable may be having bad connectivity, or the digitizer may be shorting on something. Check, clean, and re-seat all of your display cable connectors as well as making sure the connectors have no debris. What is this (possibly conductive) gray foam adhesive called and where. Maybe that will remove the dead spots.

Arthur Shi -

This was extremely difficult! But it was a little easier for me as I am an IT professional. Some helpful pro tips: definitely spend time just heating the adhesives over a period of a couple of days. The hardest part of the repair was separating the broken screen from the rest of the ipad. On re-assembly, check to make sure that the home button and touch are functioning properly before putting on new adhesives. This way you can correct any mistakes. Otherwise, you will have to undo the work you just did. Take your time, don’t rush so that you don’t make mistakes or break anything. The guide is very helpful and I was able to repair my ipad 6th generation.

Kevin

Kevin Godfrey - 回复

Ugh. This has been a PITA. I damaged the connector for lcd screen. bought replacement screen and now won’t work. HELP! Do I need to remove the old heat shield and attach it to the new lcd? What was I thinking?

Tera Virgin - 回复

Ive used 3 brand new LCDs and can’t get any of them to show a picture, when i plug in the old broken one it lights up just fine but is shattered beyond use. im starting to wonder if you can’t just replace the LCD without some sort of trick that only apple knows about

Jessica Pickering - 回复

at least you have some dead spots. I just replaced LCD and digitizer. LCD was fine except I threw the LCD cable bracket away because I thought it came with the new one as it was attached to the old one. Needless to say I have no LCD cable bracket. The digitizer does not respond at all though and LCD screen works.

Jacob Fulford - 回复

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