简介

升级你的硬盘来扩容储存空间。

    • 在开始之前,将您的iMac如图所示放倒在柔软的表面上。

    • 在玻璃面板顶部的两个角上放置吸盘。

    • 要使用我们的吸盘时,首先将吸盘的活动手柄扳动到与玻璃面板平行位置。 在吸盘轻轻地吸在玻璃面板上时,扳动活动手柄使其与另外一个手柄平行。

    • 如果您的吸盘无法吸住,尝试使用温和溶剂清洁玻璃面板和吸盘。

    imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering

    please tell me the directions

    thanks witting for answering .

    tahir - 回复

    Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.

    Robert Wacker -

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - 回复

    Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)

    See part 2 below...

    Matthew Elvey - 回复

    (Part 2:)

    I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!

    Matthew Elvey -

    I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.

    Matthew Elvey -

    What the ???

    Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/history/ste...

    I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.

    Matthew Elvey -

    I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.

    cdansmith1 - 回复

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - 回复

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - 回复

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance

    michelemiller0 - 回复

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - 回复

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - 回复

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - 回复

    I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul

    Paul Kwiat - 回复

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - 回复

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - 回复

  1. 轻轻地竖直提起玻璃面板到足够高的高度来接触玻璃面板顶部下的卡扣。
    • 轻轻地竖直提起玻璃面板到足够高的高度来接触玻璃面板顶部下的卡扣。

    • 将玻璃面板拉离iMac的下部,并将面板放在一边。

    • 在重新组装时,请确保已经清理了玻璃面板内部,和LCD表面。当打开电脑时,没人希望看到屏幕里面满是 灰尘和指纹,这样你会抓狂的。

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - 回复

    • 移除8颗将显示屏与外壳固定的8mm T10 梅花螺丝。

    • 最后两张照片是显示屏每一侧的细节照片。

    The metal near the screws is VERY magnetic. Honestly, the hardest and by far most frustrating step was trying to put these screws back in.

    seancourtney - 回复

    I ran into the same problem - easily the most frustrating part of this process. To help deal with it, I took a drinking straw, cut it to be about 2 inches long, and used it as a chute to guide the screw to the hole. Dropping the screw down the straw, it'd still stick to the side due to the magnets, but using my screwdriver, it was easy to push the screw down to where it needed to go, and the straw kept the screw from being pulled out of place by the magnets.

    josh -

    +1 for the straw tip. Worked a treat!

    osienna - 回复

    Hmm… yes, the magnets sucks - literally. But if you use a normal screwdriver or a bit, the screwdriver tip or the bit can be “loaded” by the magnets too. Just move the screwdriver (or bit) over one of the magnets and then “plug” the screw onto the screwdriver’s tip (or bit). It will be held by magnetic force. Just enough to move the screw vertically and very slowly into the whole.

    There are some special screwdriver on the market with “claws” to hold screws, but they are hard to find/to buy and expensive. I sometimes use superglue (a LITTLE) to temporary fasten the screw at the screwdrivers tip. This technique can be used with destroyed screw heads too to optimize adhesion.

    Udo - 回复

    Les vis sont inévitablement aimantées

    Gui - 回复

    • 小心地从顶部将显示屏从外壳中提起。

    • 切勿抬起太多。 仍然有许多线缆将显示屏与逻辑板相连。

    You can use one hand to hold the edge up while reaching with the other hand to disconnect cables. You may want to have a prop handy (like a small book) or an extra person to hold the edge up while you disconnect cables.

    kctipton - 回复

    Use the teardown guide for your iMac to familiarise yourself with the layout of everything before you dive in. I was able to get an idea of how much clearance there was once the display is unfixed from the frame, where the optical drive was relative to the base etc

    osienna - 回复

    The harddisk can be removed WITHOUT the next steps. The opening angle of the partially lifted LCD display gives enough room to untighten the two Torx T9 screws of the hard disk bracket, to unplug the two SATA connectors and to carefully lift out the harddisk. There is absolutely no need to dismantle the whole thing.

    All you need is a screwdriver which fits into the room. I’ve used the “Pro Tech Toolkit” from iFixit. The screwdriver with Torx T9 bit fits perfectly.

    The other “tool” you need is either someone who holds the LCD plate or the inner leftover of a kitchenroll, a scrunched paper, a small towel or similar which has to be stuffed between the logic boards and the LCD plate to keep the LCD at its lifted place (careful! don’t unplug any of the cables).

    I’ve opened and changed the harddisks of those 21,5 iMacs a dozen times with the help of the “Pro Tech Toolkit” and a kitchen roll.

    Udo - 回复

    If i want to replace the HD with a SSD, can i still skip the next steps? I think i can’t because i need to change the termal censor, but i would like an other opinion please.

    Danois -

    “Kitchen Roll” - paper towel core.

    kyoder11 -

    • 将垂直同步电缆连接器从iMac左上角附近的LED驱动板上的插座中拔出。

    添加评论

  2. 传播 Fixmas 欢乐
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    传播 Fixmas 欢乐
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    • 将显示器从外壳旋转到足以将LED背光电源电缆从LED驱动板上断开。

    • 将连接器从插槽(朝向iMac的底部边缘)拉出,同时按下锁定机构,断开LED背光电源电缆的连接。

    添加评论

    • 抓住固定在显示数据电缆锁上的塑料拉片,并向上旋转。

    • 将显示数据线直接从逻辑板上的插座中拔出。

    • 请勿抬起显示器的数据线,因为其插口非常脆弱。 将电缆平行于逻辑板的表面拉动。

    I am having a difficult time reattaching the LCD cable. A better description or any tips would be useful here.

    Ben Bauermeister - 回复

    Me too — ditto that.

    Roger Buttermore -

    https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI... —> abt. 5:30 into the vid. Handle up to slide in, then flip it down to lock the connector in place.

    Roger Buttermore -

    The connector needs to be carefully pushed in parallel to the board with a surprising amount of pressure and the pull tab must be folded back. Not super fragile, but not strong either.

    Isaac Vande Zande - 回复

    I really wish that the fagility of this connector was mentioned in Step 10 or 11.. When i rotated the screen on step 11.. It pulled this connector out and now I can't get it back in.. I hate computers.. HA!

    Philip Nelson - 回复

    • 断开LCD热传感器电缆连接器与逻辑板上的插座的连接。

    When putting the display down on the table, be careful not to kink the flat ribbon cable.

    frank - 回复

    The replacement hard drive I used doesn't even appear to spin up and the Time Capsule restore process doesn't show it as available. It just stays at Searching for disks and never finds it.

    JRBv3 - 回复

    I had to use Disk Utility to partition the drive and then it showed fine. Rookie mistake.

    JRBv3 -

    • 小心地将显示器拉向iMac的顶部边缘,然后将其从外壳中取出,注意可能被卡住的任何电缆。

    添加评论

    • 移除两颗将顶部硬盘支架与外壳固定的9mm T10 梅花螺丝。

    添加评论

    • 轻轻地将硬盘驱动器从外壳中取出,然后将其从安装引脚上抬起,朝向iMac的顶部边缘。

    • 将硬盘驱动器从凹槽中取出时,请小心不要接触AirPort卡。

    添加评论

    • 通过将每个连接器拉离硬盘驱动器,将SATA数据电缆和SATA电源连接器从各自的插座上断开。

    J’ai un 3ème câble de branché sur le disque dur ?

    Delon - 回复

    My iMac HDD have 3 ports in the back, SATA data, SATA power and a small one that looks like jumpers pins. When i removed the HDD there was a cable in it. Does anyone know what it is? I bought a new HDD and this port is slightly different. Thanks in advance.

    Rodrigo - 回复

    Pour le remontage, pensez à ajouter l’iMac Intel 21.5" and 27" Mid 2011 SSD Temperature Sensor’

    Une fois cette installation entre le disque et la nappe d’origine, vous pouvez remonter votre iMac.

    Gui - 回复

    • 移除两颗将顶部支架和硬盘固定的T8梅花螺丝。

    • 从硬盘上移除顶部支架。

    添加评论

    • 移除硬盘另外一侧的两个T8梅花支柱。

    添加评论

    • 小心地将硬盘正面的EMI泡沫剥掉。

    • 别忘了把这个贴到新的硬盘上。

    添加评论

结论

按照本指南相反步骤来重新组装设备。

204等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

80%

Leon赵国鑫正在帮助我们修复这个世界! 想要作出贡献?
开始翻译 ›

Hi guys, the tools arrived today and I did already chage the default harddisk against the WD Velociraptor 500GB. For now everything is working fine. The iMac is in the middle of restoring the time maschine backup. Everything worked out as described. Excellent! I was just a little surprised by the magnetic forces which one needs to overcome gently...

tholst - 回复

Is there a temp sensor that monitors the HD? I did the upgrade but now my fan is always on. I must've done something wrong.

Funkpolvo - 回复

Did you use the same brand hard drive? Did check the instructions about cable orientation on the hard drive? Did you double check the LCD thermal sensor cable?

Scott Dingle -

Take a glance at this page for full explanations:

http://www.hddfancontrol.com/imac-hard-d...

I had the same issue here (after replacing the original HDD by a 1TB WB Caviar Blue) and it has been fixed by this utility.

HTH,

Jo Campos -

In response to the software, that does work, however, it can be taken care of hardware wise if our recommendations are followed.

Scott Dingle -

Hi, I'm no stranger to upgrading my Macs (been doing it since 1989). I've followed this guide too since the inside of my '11 iMac is a little less upgrade friendly and my fans spin up afterward as well even if the computer is just sitting there idle. I replaced my factory internal 500GB WD drive with a 2TB WD drive. It doesn't take long before my fans start to spin up. I've checked and rechecked all of the cable attachments. What else could I be doing wrong? What are your referenced recommendations that take care of this with a hardware solution? My best find so far is a donation based version of the above mentioned S.M.A.R.T. tool (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).

sash5 -

Another device fixed due to iFixit. One iPhone 4, 1 MacMini, 1 MacBook Pro and now an iMac! You guys are better than awesome!!!

ajayme44 - 回复

Thank you iFixit, another successful repair. Upgraded 1TB hard drive to 2TB, no issues at all.

pdwickizer - 回复

I have been using iFixit for years, so thank you very much for these guides. Invaluable!

But, I have one question.....

It seems that when I replace the HDD, often the microphone goes dead or bad. I never touch the microphone, never touch those cables, so is there any idea why this would happen or what I can do to repair/recover?

I saw one iFixit guide which showed how to replace the microphone, but it gave no source for the part..... help!

David - 回复

This took me about 15 minutes. Watch step 7 the most; that display data cable is fragile, and you're going to need good lighting to see it.

If you're installing an SSD, you'll definitely need an adapter for it so it seats properly in the iMac's shell. I bought a Newer Technology AdaptaDrive 2.5" to 3.5" Drive Converter Bracket for $14, and it's of excellent build quality. Fits like a glove in there.

Finally, your fan is going to spin up like crazy after your first boot. Don't freak out just yet; follow these instructions after you've turned your computer on (from http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964):

1. Shut down the computer.

2. Unplug the computer's power cord.

3. Wait fifteen seconds.

4. Attach the computer's power cord.

5. Wait five seconds, then press the power button to turn on the computer.

Dave Mosher - 回复

Edit: That didn't work, but a free application called ssdfanctrl did. Installed, restarted, set to "SMART" control and... completely silent. http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl

Dave Mosher -

SSDFanControl doesn't work, at least for me on El Capitan. I've seen other complaints about this too.

Glenn -

I replaced the HDD with an SSD. Works great thanks to this guide. Also the DVD drive was broken, I replaced that also.

I really needed HDD fan control to reduce the fan speed. A reset did not help for me, so thanks for that app suggestion in this comment post.

mlter2002 - 回复

Actually pretty easy install of SSD HD. Ordered the Newertech converter bracket and bought the fan control: http://www.hddfancontrol.com/imac-hard-d...

My wife had a couple of great ideas to keep lint and dust down: Use newspaper to set the glass and LCD on (then cover with newspaper) because it is very clean, wear powder free latex gloves to avoid hand oils contaminating computer.

Thanks again iFixit! My iMac is much faster.

tcoates52 - 回复

Upgraded 500 Mb hard drive to 2TB. Thank you for this good guide !

birdlike - 回复

Yesterday I replaced my internal Seagate 500GB with a Seagate 2TB hybrid hard drive without any issues. Was expecting tør fans to speed up due to failing harddisk hardware temperatur check, but everything runs normal :-) improved El capitan startup time from 56 secs to 32 secs. Very happy for this guide

tilst1 - 回复

I would to do the same replacement. Did you purchase the Seagate SSHD 2TB drive (ST2000DX001)? Did it have an Apple logo? And did you have to buy an additional thermal sensor to keep the fans from spinning? Any reccos would help.

dmindel -

Part the First:

Replaced 2428 internal WD 500GB with a Seagate 1TB hybrid hard drive yesterday. Couple of years ago, put in a SanDisk 128 SSD with IFixit hard drive.

My issues with the earlier installation were: 1. bent / broke display data plug teeth twice reinstalling —ambient light, case slipping, fat hand all contributory factors. (Repair guy had to finish it for me — $150.00 plus 2 extra cables.) 2. 128 SSD kept running out of space, was corrupted regularly. Constantly had to use Disk Utility and then MacPaw CleanMyMac 3 to jolly it along. Two different configurations, first I paid for (guy told me Fusion Drive wasn't really necessary), second I got off line about 6 months ago. Problems decreased but never went away. Reminded me of my 1966 USAF experience with a giant room-sized Univac — it was down about half the time.

Roger Buttermore -

Part the Second:

Anyway, I girded my loins for this latest foray into the guts of my 'puter. Lots of research, but I can never lock in a complete step-by-step list of parts, changes to SUDO, etc. So I'm glad to report that my girlfriend showed up at the end of the day with steady, small hands to hold lights and reconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable (my day was spent straightening the tiny pin on the right without breaking it — although the metal cover on LCD plug bent backwards, then broke) and then she helped with that pesky Display Data Plug — angle of insertion, that pull tab and a sinking lack of perception about whether it's seated properly being my previous downfall.

Roger Buttermore -

Part the Third:

OK, my recent experiences:

1. Note to self: Losing 2 T10 8mm Torx screws for reassembly not real brilliant.

2. Fan speed flat out ("SMART" button didn't show up for me using that first recommended utility, but turning iMac off, unplug, waiting etc, then reboot worked - fan still seems noisy but it's not constant.

3. Make a Fusion Drive of your SSD + HDD with Terminal —

A. diskutil list —> to find the mount points for both drives;

B. diskutil coreStorage create FUSION /dev/disk# /dev/disk# —> where # stands for those two different mount points;

C. diskutil coreStorage createVolume lvgUUID jhfs+ “Fusion HD” 100% —> where lvgUUID = that big long serial number that showed up after the last command; AND FINALLY

D. sudo trimforce enable ... WOW!

UberSanDisk was fast before, but FUSION HD 100% SCREAMS.

Roger Buttermore -

Thank you sooo much for this guide !! It saved my iMac after my hard drive crashed. I was able to skip 5, 6, 7 and 8. Because when you are lifting up the display, your elbow can hold it up, while you unscrew the drive and take the Sata cables off. I replaced my drive with an original Apple drive, just 500 GB for testing, but as mentioned so many times before, fans fans fans. So for a short temp time I used Macs Fan Control ( http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont... ) instead of the HDD control, not only the charge factor, but its temp, not permanent. I will replace it with Seagate SSHD hybrid drive, if still needed then, get OWC for fan control. Awesome page, thank you soo much. I was kinda lost before, now I have the knowledge, what was wrong and more important, fix it myself and not some shop who charges outrages $$$$$$.

Alexandra - 回复

maybe i have a big arm but i pulled out the data cable, the power cable out of their sockets when I held it with my elbow, and not knowing that I screwed everything back in and turned on the imac - bang, black screen.

took me an hour to refix everything and now it's finally back to normal...

Bruce -

Not a hard install to do - I just ran into the same issues already mentioned here:

- The magnets on the side of the casing really do make working with screws a pain. I ended up using a pair of tweezers to aid me but the suggested above idea of using a straw as a guide is genius!

- You really do need 2 people to safely disconnect the 4 cables before you remove the screen. The cables and sockets are very easy to damage, so it's much safer to have someone with 2 hands or one hand and a flashlight rather than you working with one hand while holding up the screen with the other.

- If you are installing an SSD, you will need an adapter bracket. I only realized this once I got inside my iMac. With a bracket, it's no problem at all.

jefft - 回复

I agree — data display cable design is the pits. Straw idea is good idea for seating screws near magnets — or a small screw driver with a flat magnet pickup on the back end — goes right in as well. AND... 2 people make all the difference!

Roger Buttermore -

- I ran into the same fan-running-at-full-speed issue after reassembly. Apparently the iMac uses the stock HD's temperature sensor, so when you switch it out it has no sensor and spins on max all the time. As mentioned above, don't pay for HDD Fan Control - use the free Macs Fan Control (http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...). If you have an SSD, you can leave the HD fan permanently set to the minimum (as they emit so little heat).

I read that on some 2009 & 2010 iMacs, the fan issue occurs when one of the cables is put back mis-orieneted. Apparently, one of the connectors can work right-side-up or upside-down, and if you get it wrong it causes the fan issue. 'Anybody know if this is true for this model iMac? Anybody tried this as a fix?

jefft - 回复

Does anyone have a list of model numbers for supported hard drives that definitely won't cause fan issues? Also, where is the best place to buy them? I have a machine with a failed HD and need to replace it. Thanks!

Geordan Brown - 回复

Hey,

Just replaced the hdd w/ a hybrid drive. Boots without a screen, and external display works fine, but it won't boot with the screen installed. Any thoughts? Thanks.

gabriel molnar - 回复

Thanks for compiling these instructions. I have successfully followed the other ifixit guides for the 2007 iMacs (3 x). For this model, why is the universal drive adaptor a required purchase? I do not see any reference to it in the instructions.

seanemail - 回复

Can i change the hard drive with an SSD ?

Andrea Foderaro - 回复

Takes under an hour, especially if you've done this before and have some practice with the cables. Under 2 hours if you count driving to Best Buy and back to get the replacement HD.

kctipton - 回复

Excellent guide thank you to the author!

Brandon - 回复

Why is the universal drive adapter required?

Daniel Verlaque - 回复

You don't need one if you have other means of attaching your 2.5" SSD to the back wall of the iMac case (like industrial strength Velcro or 3M VHB tape), but the bracket you mount into is a 3.5" space for a full sized desktop drive and SSDs are 2.5". Thus the adapter... just to mount the drive into the bigger bracket area.

brentp -

I was quite fearful about opening my iMac, but I did it anyway, and installed a SSD instead of the dead HDD that was in it, and it works like a new computer, starting up in 20 seconds and apps open almost instantly. My only heart stopping moment was I slipped and dropped the lCD a few inches, but it was fine. Now if I could just find a way to cheaply retrofit it with USB3 or USBc it would be good for another 5 years. BTW I use a free app called Macs Fan Control which lets me use one of the other sensors to control the HD fan. A bonus is the computer is running 35° f cooler so I can't even hear the fan running around 1000rpm.

Michael Crumpton - 回复

Don't touch the PCB with the Lightning Bolt icon. it hurts

CMSuiuc - 回复

He actualizado el HD de 500 Gb de mi iMac con uno de 2 TB!!! Todo perfecto gracias a esta excelente guía. Lo más difícil fue lidiar con el polvo y la grasa de las manos. Ahora tengo una iMac más rápida!! Muchas gracias.

Roberto Herrera - 回复

Anyibe gave an opinion if it's worth replacing the OEM SATA cable with one rated for SATA III? Seems like a logical step since everything is apart, but if someone can definitively tell me that the OEM cable won't degrade my SATA III drive performance I probably won't bother.

(As an aside - geez there's a lot of dust in there. Nice to clean those fans out!)

Patrick Holman - 回复

No this doesn't matter at all so don't bother doing so.

If it was the case, it wasn't the cable but the chipset of the board limiting it.

evo -

Does the drive's temperature sensor continue to work when you detach te sata power cable only?

Or does the de original hdd need sata power as well to provide the drive's temperature values to the iMac?

I'm asking because the drive is faulty and makes noise. I'm placing an ssd in the dvd bay area and don't want to use any software to control the fans.

evo - 回复

Just to repeat my comment from step 4: you do not dismantle everything. Once the 8 Torx 10 screws from the LCD plate are untightend, the LCD plate can be lifted a few centimeters (or inches). It’s limited by the cables but the opening angle is wide enough to untighten the two hard disk bracket screws (Torx 9), to unplug the two SATA connectors and to lift out the hard disk. You need either someone holding the LCD, a third arm or anything soft like a towel or the leftover of a kitchenroll which has to be stuffed between the logic boards and the LCD plate to hold it.

Auf Deutsch: Man braucht keine Kabel zu lösen. Einfach das LCD-Display anheben, am Ende die Papprolle aus einer Küchenrolle, ein Handtuch oder Schal reinstopfen, damit das Display so bleibt und man kann die zwei Schrauben für die HD-Halteklammer so lösen, wenn man einen Schraubendreher hat, der nicht zu lang ist. Die Festplatte bekommt man leicht heraus.

Udo - 回复

Hi Guys! The Upper Hard Drive Bracket is out of stock. I would know if this ssd’s support (of metal) is right as well. >> https://www.ollo.it/digitus-frame-hdd-ad...

Mattia Di Cicco - 回复

Changed the original hard drive to a 1TB SSHD about 9 months ago. Bought a HD Thermal sensor (I believe it was from OWC) that properly controls the fan speed without adding any software to the iMac. Would suggest checking out their product along with the software solutions described above.

Rich Crossley - 回复

Do you really need an adapter bracket? Since the SSD is so lightweight couldn’t you just screw in one side?

Jeremy Gerster - 回复

I typically just use duct-tape to hold it in place.

johann beda -

Worth repeating here… if your replacement HD does not have a thermal sensor, the fan will run continually. The free smcFanControl app is the bees knees: http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/23049/s...

G Lee - 回复

Many Many Thanks…Cristiano

Cristiano Dallacasagrande - 回复

As already mentioned I didn’t need to unplug any cables, just propped up the LCD panel with a plastic jar and the gap was large enough to go to Step 10 with a standard iFixit screwdriver (on a slight angle). Putting 8x Torx 10 screws back in was probably the biggest challenge but I used L tweezers to guide the screws.

I didn’t use the thermal sensor for 480GB SSD replacement but did use a $5 3.5” to 2.5” bracket, I don’t think you can get away without using one as the mount points are for 3.5” drive and would be too far apart.. unless you are happy to use just ONE (I wouldn’t).

Running vanilla 10.12.3 Sierra did not seem to make fans run loud but I still used smcFanControl app just in case.

Andrew Trofimov - 回复

I completed the upgrade, and only used Velcro and some bracing to secure a 2.5 ssd! Works great!

Alex Fischer - 回复

Pour le remontage, il manque un élément important l’iMac Intel 21.5" and 27" Mid 2011 SSD Temperature Sensor’

Une fois cette installation entre le disque et la nappe d’origine, vous pouvez remonter votre iMac.

Gui - 回复

So everything seems to have worked out and i have turned it back on. However, I am not restoring from a Time Capsule, I am just trying to reinstall the OS. It looks great until it tells me to select a drive to install it on. Its like the computer doesn’t recognize the new drive. Any suggestions?

joel.ryals - 回复

If the drive was not formatted has HFS+ by Disk Utility.app it may not be recognized by the installer. I usually format and install a system on a drive before intalling it inside the machine, but you can use Target Disk mode or maybe Internet Recovery to format it after installation.

johann beda -

Do I need to format the ssd? I installed the ssd and I have high Sierra on usb as well as my time machine back up. I want to clean install OS X and then restore to my back up.

Richard D'Andrea - 回复

Hi Richard,

You will most likely need to format the SSD, but it can be done as part of the OS installation. Check this guide out for more details.

Good luck!

Arthur Shi -

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