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简介

在开始工作之前 拔掉电脑电源,按住电源键10秒来为电源电容放电。

小心 请勿触摸电源处的任何电容和引线以及暴露的焊点

只可抓板的边缘位置

    • 如果铰链可以自由移动,iMac就会失去平衡,难以开展工作。修理时可以让iMac躺下,但使用iMac维修楔子会更快更容易。

    • 如果你使用的是 iFixit纸板服务楔子,请按照 装配说明将其组装起来。

    This instruction page is not clear and is ambiguous if you have to do all the steps to just change the power supply please clarify another words do I have to remove the speaker and the hard drive to replace the power supply?

    crawfordjohn - 回复

    This is a display removal guide not the power supply guide!Here’s the guide you need to follow for that iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换

    Dan -

    Didn’t need the cardboard wedge to remove the display. Waste of money. Lay your Mac on its back.

    James Clive - 回复

  1. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 2 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 2 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 2 中的图像 3,3
    • 从显示器的左侧开始,靠近电源按钮,将iMac打开工具插入玻璃面板和后壳之间的缝隙中。

    • iMac打开工具上的轮毂可以防止你把轮子推得太远。如果使用不同的工具,插入显示器的距离不要超过3/8英寸(9.5毫米)。否则有可能切断天线电缆并造成严重损坏。

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - 回复

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - 回复

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - 回复

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 回复

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

    Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

    Melissa Ortiz -

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - 回复

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - 回复

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - 回复

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - 回复

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - 回复

    Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

    As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

    *I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

    Brad Bauknecht - 回复

    Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

    merinian -

    Merinian: I replaced the power supply and it’s still working fine at this late date. No more intermittent shut-downs. Fingers still crossed!

    Brad Bauknecht -

    Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

    John Fisk - 回复

    Thank you very much for the instructive tutorial. I just successfully replaced the hard drive on my 2012 iMac 27. I used a disposable surgical scalpel 15 blade, and locked the blade extending 9 mm from the scalpel shaft using office tape. I used regular double sided tape to reattach the screen. I cut the strips using the scalpel. I have no previous computer experience and this is the first time I replaced a computer part. This was easy and fun.

    Filip Dolatowski - Friday 11th Dec 2020

    Filip Dolatowski - 回复

    You are very lucky! I’ve had three systems come in which someone did the exact same thing! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Please don’t use surgical knifes or any other knife! Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

    .

    You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up.

    Dan -

    Thank you very much for the tutorial. You are the best!

    After reading all the post here I almost gave up doing this on my own. But I did it anyway and was succesful. I would recommend everyone to use the rollcutter. There is no risk of harming the screen if you use it. And in my case it was enough to open the imac. If you do not harm the screen connector or the screen the biggest part is done. It gets easier once you`ve stacked your screen somewhere safe. The parts inside are mostely not as delicate as the heavy and expensive screen!

    Take your time and work carefully. It is definitely doable!

    CONSULTINEL - 回复

    I found the cutter tool that came with my kit to work just fine. The wheel is extremely thin and I had no problem inserting the wheel to begin cutting. I follow the guide for the most part but took my time and use the cutting wheel slowly and then repeated the process a few times. Once I was able to pry the screen back about an inch I used the other end of the tool to cut additional adhesive that was still clinging to the body of the iMac and the screen. Having just replaced the power supply, and having my iMac running again, I do not think I will use the adhesive strips to reattach the screen. The screen fit back in place no problem which I did to test my Mac. Because the iMac screen sits at an angle I am quite comfortable that the screen is not gonna fall off. Also while having a screen off I was able to clean the inside of the Mac of dust buildup. I think I will only use the adhesive strips down the road if I’m gonna sell the Mac, which means I can give it a good clean before securing the screen.

    James Orwin - 回复

    If the screen falls off (which it will do!) it will damage the parts which would be a lot more expensive! PLEASE get the correct tapes and properly mount the screen back on.

    Think of it this way how many people have shot them selves with a gun not realizing it was loaded or set to go off!

    Dan -

    I think Dan is right as I decided it best to complete the process with the adhesive tapes to secure the screen. I just took some time to do a complete clean of the interior before sealing the display.

    James Orwin - 回复

  2. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 3 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 3 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 3 中的图像 3,3
    • 就像切披萨一样—在缝隙里划过屏幕,这会切除掉粘在中间的泡沫粘合剂。

    • 一定要推着转盘的后面让转盘旋转,如果你是拉的,转盘可能会掉出托盘。

    • 在左方划开显示屏。

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - 回复

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - 回复

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 回复

    I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….as a result unknowingly I elongated a small crack to a much longer crack and somehow, the LCD now has a wide grey strip from top to bottom….The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. a replacement LCD is the same has replacing the entire computer….I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place….since the screen tilts back, this should not be a problem…Good luck…

    S. Baxter - 回复

  3. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 4 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 4 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 4 中的图像 3,3
    • 继续用工具划过左上角。

  4. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 5 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 5 中的图像 2,2
    • 从左上方开始,沿边切除粘合剂。

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

  5. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 6 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 6 中的图像 2,2
    • 划过上方的屏幕。

    • 你也许要多划几次,大约3-4次,确保大多数粘合剂已经分离了。

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris - 回复

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in - 回复

    I measured a depth several positions.

    - About 6 centimeters near iSight Camera center, you must no use iMac opening tool, because iSight element exists.

    - iMac opening tool has a 9mm radius, so it may break iSight camera element.

    - Making a plastic card stacking 2 or 3 to 3mm, under the iMac opening tool, that makes inserting a gap 5~6mm like below.

    @. iMac opening tool

    ====== plastic card3 (credit card 1mm)

    ====== plastic card2 (1mm)

    ====== platic card1. (1mm)

    ———————————————— isight camera element (total 5~6cm) ————

    In my case, i got a display problem where lcd display yellow connector was torn without care.

    Be helpful.

    KWANGBOK, LEE - 回复

  6. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 7 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 7 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 7 中的图像 3,3
    • 沿着缝隙划到显示屏右上角。

  7. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 8 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 8 中的图像 2,2
    • 转一下,让轮子沿着向下方向。

  8. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 9 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 9 中的图像 2,2
    • 把打开显示屏的工具推到显示器右边的底部。

    • 此时,您会希望在整个显示器周围使用该工具,以确保尽可能减少粘结。

    I didn’t have the fancy cutter or cards. So I used my actual pizza cutter. Followed directions just the same, and it easily cut through the adhesive w/o issues or marring the surfaces. Actually used it to rock back and forth to lift the screen. It’s all about taking your time. I rolled it back and further until cut thru. The 3/8 to 1/4 inch is right, but the screen framing actually prevents further depth unless you force it further. The adhesive actually protected the glass while cutting thru, so no damage. Great instructions, but where to get the replacement adhesive to reinstall?? Should be four independent strips.

    Keith Thomas - 回复

    You are very lucky you didn't cut to deep! The plastic cutter that's in the kit is the only thing I would use. Spending a few bucks on a tool is a lot cheaper than $500 for a new display!

    Please don't use a real pizza cutter!

    Dan -

  9. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 10 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 10 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 10 中的图像 3,3
    • 当打开显示屏的工具做了大部分工作之后,显示器仍然会轻微地粘附在外壳上。用一张塑料卡就可以把这种胶粘剂移除。

    • 将iMac屏幕朝上放在桌面上。

    • 从iMac的右上角开始,在显示屏和外壳之间插入一张塑料卡。

    • 注意不要插入超过3/8英寸(9.5毫米),否则可能损坏内部元件。

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - 回复

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - 回复

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - 回复

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - 回复

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - 回复

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - 回复

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - 回复

    This is a good tip!

    Lennart Saaf -

    Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. My less then optimal solution was to draw lines 3/8” around the cards, not as safe as your fix, but fast.

    Michael Piplani -

    Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

    John Fisk - 回复

    surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

    S Hussain - 回复

    The cards don’t have any means to control the depth, its your skills which control it. Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

    Dan -

    The pizza roller tool is enough to cut through the adhesive. You dont need to cut in a lot further. So the cards are really not necessary.

    sebastian.wittl - 回复

    might be a stupid question but would credit cards or state ids work too?

    John Ta - 回复

    You need the pizza cutter! The cards are used to hold the display off of the case frame.

    As for as using old credit cards and useless ID cards sure they will work. I wouldn’t use anything important ;-}

    Dan -

    No problems. I used two old credit cards and marked out a line using permanent marker so it was at the same depth as stipulated on this page. I even pushed it in a little deeper and no issues.

    James Clive - 回复

  10. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 11 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 11 中的图像 2,2
    • 轻轻扭动塑料卡,打开显示屏和框架之间的空间,并剪掉靠近角落的任何剩余粘合剂。

    • 用力过大会使玻璃破裂。小心工作,不要试图制造一个大于约1/4英寸(6毫米)的间隙。

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

  11. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 12 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 12 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 12 中的图像 3,3
    • 在碰到iSight摄像头前一定要停止切割,否则你可能会损坏它。

    • 将卡片向显示屏的中心滑动,以减少剩余的黏合剂。

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - 回复

  12. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 13 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 13 中的图像 2,2
    • 把这张卡放在显示屏的边角处,让它留在那里,以防止粘结剂重新粘合。

  13. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 14 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 14 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 14 中的图像 3,3
    • 将第二张卡插入显示屏另一个边角处和外壳之间的空隙。

  14. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 15 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 15 中的图像 2,2
    • 轻轻抬起卡片,稍微增加显示屏与外壳之间的间隙。

    • 与另一边一样,慢慢地移动,让胶粘剂破裂,注意不要过度按压玻璃。

  15. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 16 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 16 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 16 中的图像 3,3
    • 把塑料卡滑到中心,再一次停在iSight相机前。

  16. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 17 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 17 中的图像 2,2
    • 将卡片插入显示屏的另一个边角处。

  17. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 18 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 18 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 18 中的图像 3,3
    • 只把显示屏抬起几英寸——它仍然是通过数据和电力电缆连接到iMac上的。

    • 将卡片插入到边角附近,轻轻地扭转卡片,以增加显示屏与外壳之间的距离。

    • 如果有任何部分看起来粘在一起,并且不会分开,那就停止扭转卡片,用其中一张卡片在问题区域中切下胶粘剂。

    • 开始从外壳中抬起显示屏的顶部。

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - 回复

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci - 回复

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick - 回复

    I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

    tanner85 - 回复

    Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

    Gerry - 回复

    The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

    Lennart Saaf - 回复

    This is the step where I cracked the screen.

    HABEEB102 - 回复

    Did you use the pizza cutter tool first?

    Dan -

    WARNING!!! This is where you can crack you screen. TAKE YOUR TIME! Everything work fine for me because I took my time. I was very shocked at how fragile the screen is. It does have a small amount of flex but don’t push your luck. There were two things that made this easy for me #1 Once you have used the cutting wheel to your best judgement to cut the adhesive, start using the iFixIt plastic cards as spacers and space them evenly around the screen. I used 10 individual cards of and gently moved them up and down at each section two at a time. Once I started having less resistance, I combined 2(i.e. 5 sets total) cards evenly space to allow for move rigid and stronger movement to separate the screen. This really helped me to free up more adhesive. #2 before lifting the screen up fully, use tweezers to pull the adhesive like a string from around the entire monitor. This will make lifting the screen much easier since all adhesive will be removed. Finally when lifting the screen use the cards with your hands under them.

    Andrew Phillips - 回复

    Would any of you consider the possibility of heating the glass with a hot-air fan before starting the process? In that way, the adhesive would let the screen go easier, I think.

    ManuG - 回复

    The type of tape has a lot to do with it. If the original tapes are still present then the pizza tool slices through the thin foam core of the tape so heating is not needed. If on the other hand someone replaced the tapes with just regular double sided tapes then there is no foam core to split and there is a sizable risk the display will get damaged in the process of taking it off. So sure in this case a bit of heat might help, just be aware the LCD panel area is quite close to the edge along the top three sides so you also have the risk of dating it from over heating!

    Dan -

  18. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 19 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 19 中的图像 2,2
    • 用一只手握住显示器的同时,用另一只手拔下显示电源线

    • 把显示器提升到足够方便的高度,但不要太高,电缆还是连接在逻辑板上的(电缆约长8英寸)

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - 回复

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 回复

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - 回复

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - 回复

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - 回复

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci - 回复

    Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

    John Fisk - 回复

    I’d agree to John - not overly difficult. My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing.

    stefan - 回复

    I would not recommend doing this step as pictured. The cable you are removing has little tabs on the wide side that can be depressed inwards towards the center of the connector, releasing the cable. If you just grab the cable as pictured and yank it out, without depressing the side tabs, you are likely to damage something. Don’t pull on the wires, use your fingernails at the connector to squeeze the very small little tabs inward to release the cable from the connector.

    maccentric - 回复

    The removal of the LCD power cable does require the left and right sides to be squeezed inwards towards each other first before removing, why this isn’t mentioned in the take apart can lead to damaging the iMac.

    robert - 回复

    I agree with maccentric. DO NOT just pull the power cable. Use your fingernail or spudger and gently press the tiny notch inward and towards you gently and one side will disengage. Do the same for the other side and it will slide right out. The notches just have enough edge to catch your nail or spudger. Using your nail is better as you can better feel when you have caught the edge and can feel the cable move.

    Andrew Phillips - 回复

    I lifted the display a few inches up and propped it open in the middle using my iPhone in portrait mode with its torch on. Did the job nicely:

    James Clive - 回复

  19. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 20 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 20 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 20 中的图像 3,3
    • 打开覆盖在显示数据电缆上的金属盖片

    • 断开显示数据电缆

    • 这是一种很容易被打破的微妙关系。确保将显示数据电缆连接器直接从其插座中拉出,并拉向iMac的顶部

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - 回复

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - 回复

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - 回复

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - 回复

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 回复

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - 回复

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - 回复

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - 回复

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 回复

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker - 回复

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel - 回复

    Did you get to the bottom.of this?

    paul.lynch1 -

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible - 回复

    I’ve completed the upgrade to SSD, but while restarting my screen remains black. As if no connected.

    I assume I broke the sensitive connector.

    —> how to order a spare?

    Durain - 回复

    Did you get to the bottom of this?.

    paul.lynch1 -

    is the display assembly of 2015’s the same as 2017’s?

    zenu - 回复

    No! Apple loves to mess us up!

    Dan -

    That display cable connector is common to many Macs of the 2012 era. I’ve destroyed 2 in 38 years of servicing all types of computer equipment.

    As stated, there is a latch on this connector. If you put any incorrect force on the cable or connector during disassembly or reassembly, you will break the cable and possibly the connector. The cables can be purchased online and the video connector on the display is exactly the same.

    I repeat, if you pull out on the video cable after it has been unlatched instead of parallel to the logic board, YOU WILL BREAK IT.

    James Hendrickson - 回复

  20. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 21 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 21 中的图像 2,2
    • 将显示器提升到接近垂直的位置

    • 此时,显示屏底部仍有一块胶粘剂,可以像铰链一样将显示器固定在外壳上。你可以通过几次开合来将这种粘合剂弄松

    • 通过抓住外部边缘多次开合尽可能多地去除粘合剂,然后将其拉到需要的位置

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - 回复

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - 回复

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - 回复

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - 回复

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - 回复

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti - 回复

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans - 回复

    If you are just replacing the hard drive, I have found that it is quite possible to do while leaving the screen connected, making the process much easier. The amount you need to tilt the screen to access the little pull tabs at the bottom to release the screen is also sufficient to access the drive. I remove the drive while the iMac is upright. I also heat up the bottom of the screen to soften the glue and to help with the possibility of the glass cracking while doing this step.

    maccentric - 回复

    Very dangerous! You’ll stress the cables and the logic board connectors.

    Dan -

    I meant that you can leave the bottom strip of adhesive attached; you still need to disconnect the 2 cables.

    maccentric -

    As mentioned before you can pull out the lower adhesive strip. Dont cut it or move the display up and down. This is even more dangerous. On the lower side of mac where the display glass ends is a offset. When moving the display up and down you might crack it over that offset.

    sebastian.wittl - 回复

    When removing the adhesive from the top of the screen, be sure to start at the iSight camera location (= in the middle). If you start at an upper egde of the glass (side doesn’t matter) towards the middle, you risk removing the black background foil from the screen, which will result in ugly stripes behind the glass.

    christopher.winter - 回复

  21. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 22 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 22 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 22 中的图像 3,3
    • 要非常小心,不要触摸电容器引线或电源背面的任何暴露的焊点(红色框内)。

    • 如果有必要,可以用塑料卡来切割底部胶条的任何剩余部分。

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - 回复

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - 回复

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - 回复

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - 回复

    You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).

    maccentric -

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - 回复

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - 回复

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - 回复

    @john - there’s a slot on the back of the motherboard for a storage stick. fancy

    flow in - 回复

    I took my time and pulled both tabs slowly gently. Easily removed and glass came right off.

    Keith Thomas - 回复

  22. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 23 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 23 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 23 中的图像 3,3
    • 抬起显示屏时要非常小心--它又大又重,而且是玻璃做的。显示屏的边缘十分脆弱,请避免从边角来抬起显示屏。

    • 将显示屏从框架上抬起并取下。将显示屏正面朝下放在一个平坦柔软的表面上。

    • 可能有必要从一边慢慢地抬起起,并将剩余的胶粘剂剥离

    • 粘合剂被切断后,不能重复利用。当你维修完成后,请按照 这个指南 更换将显示器固定在后壳上的胶条。

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - 回复

  23. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 24 中的图像 1,1
    • 如果您需要替换显示器面板,您可能需要将额外的组件从旧u面板转移到新面板上。比较新旧面板的背部。注意:所有的线缆,传感器和泡沫缓冲材料不随新面板提供。

    • 如果胶带下方有电线或电缆,务必先将胶带移除。

    • 如果电缆粘在底座上,先使用iOpener或吹风机来软化粘合剂。然后您便可以滑一个开口以松动下方的电缆。切勿直接拉动精密连接器。

    • 在此插入翻译

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - 回复

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - 回复

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - 回复

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - 回复

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - 回复

  24. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换, 拆除左侧的扬声器: 步骤 25 中的图像 1,1
    • 卸下两个10毫米的T10螺丝。

    I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.

    Cool_Breeze - 回复

    While you do not need to fully remove the screws as once you loosen them a few turns the speaker becomes free. I found that after the removal of the speaker, I turned it over and popped the screws out as this made it easier to replace it later as I could see the alignment before putting the screws back in. If not you may be off a little and you do not want to force the screw back in.

    James Orwin - 回复

  25. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 26 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 26 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 26 中的图像 3,3
    • 拔掉左边的扬声器电缆,把它从逻辑板上的插座里直接拔出来。

    • 将电缆从硬盘和逻辑板之间的缝隙中移开。

    • 如果硬盘和逻辑板之间的缝隙对扬声器电缆来说太窄,请断开其连接,将电缆留在原地。

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

    on the 2019 iMac, it is horizontal not vertical so pull it horizontally out.

    tarex7 - 回复

  26. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 27 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 27 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 27 中的图像 3,3
    • 小心 切勿触碰任何电源背板上的金属焊点。 电容内可能还有余电,对您造成伤害。

    • 使用撬棒来切断电源键与逻辑板之间的连接。

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - 回复

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - 回复

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - 回复

    The connector has a plain black side and the other side you can see the 2 silver connectors.. the side you can see the 2 silver connectors faces the front.. the plain side is to the back/against the logic board.

    paul.lynch1 -

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - 回复

    make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

    flow in - 回复

  27. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 28 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 28 中的图像 2,2
    • 将左边的扬声器直接提起,直到电源按钮线露出来(约0.5英寸/1.27厘米)。

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 回复

  28. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 29 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 29 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 29 中的图像 3,3
    • 小心的将电源按钮线缆从左扬声器的槽中取出。

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - 回复

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 回复

  29. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 30 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 30 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 30 中的图像 3,3
    • 将左扬声器向上提起,来与iMac分离。

    • 如果先前硬盘与逻辑板之间的缝隙过于狭窄无法取出电缆,那么现在当您卸下扬声器的时候请轻轻拉动。

    • 拉出扬声器的时候请引导线缆穿过硬盘驱动器支架的右下方。

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - 回复

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

    Eric - 回复

    easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

    flow in - 回复

    Agree. This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    The trick with removing the left speaker is that you have to slide it up toward the top of the iMac (continuing to de-route the power button cable carefully as you go) to get it out from under the chin before you lift it up to remove it.

    ace - 回复

  30. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换, 硬盘: 步骤 31 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换, 硬盘: 步骤 31 中的图像 2,2
    • 将SATA 数据/电源线向上拉起来与硬盘断开连接。

    Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

    Carl Schultz - 回复

  31. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 32 中的图像 1,1
    • 卸下2个左硬盘驱动器支架与后壳固定的 7.3 mm T10 螺丝。

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - 回复

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - 回复

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    Macrepair SF - 回复

    Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

    Ben Hannam - 回复

    The bracket screws are T10. The screws on the left side of the SILVER hard drive itself, are T8. If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. Look immediately to the left of the hard drive & you will see the BLACK bracket frame with two screws that use T10.

    jumpoverpuddles - 回复

    Bracket to iMac case screws,T8.

    Which is fine.

    Just as in the next step, T8 or T10.

    Mike Rehbein - 回复

  32. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 33 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 33 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 33 中的图像 3,3
    • 抓住硬盘与左硬盘支架。

    • 稍微向左将其与机箱分离。然后将其滑向左侧。

    • 将硬盘与左硬盘支架与iMac 分离。

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - 回复

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - 回复

    Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

    Declan Casey - 回复

  33. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 34 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 34 中的图像 2,2
    • 取下左硬盘支架。

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

    On Late 2015 27” iMac I found that after removing this speaker, and the Right side one, I could reach under the motherboard and squeeze and disconnect the SATA data connector with a needle-nose and then remove the SATA power connector and slide the cable out from under the logic board without removing the board. The new cable slid in from the hard drive side with little effort.

    chuck solie - 回复

    If switching to an SSD, the posts on the drive can be removed and used on the 2.5” to 3.5” adapter tray.

    Andrew Gough - 回复

  34. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换, 拆除电源: 步骤 35 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换, 拆除电源: 步骤 35 中的图像 2,2
    • 当在电源上工作时,要非常小心,不要触摸电容器引线或电源背面的任何暴露的焊点。只能从主板的边缘处理。

    • 从电源上断开电源控制电缆的连接。

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - 回复

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - 回复

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - 回复

    I simultaneously used the fingernails on my 2 index fingers to dislodge the tabs and continue to pull the cable out. It took a couple seconds.

    Eric - 回复

    ultimately the trick for me was to just pull hard enough, but that part is the scariest part. any tips welcome

    Boris - 回复

    These connectors seem pretty tough to remove until one understands the latch. Each side of the plug are two little sprung tabs (the tab is part of the spring clip which runs down the side of the plug on each side - makes sense once you see the removed plug!). Squeeze them in towards each other and then gently pull the plug from the socket. No great force, or even the spudger, needed once that is done.

    Pete Mackenzie - 回复

    One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out

    Mike Fleming - 回复

    If u are right handed, i can recomend to use your index left nail to press de bottom sprung, and a flat spudger on the right hand, came off so easy

    Davo Montiel - 回复

  35. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 36 中的图像 1,1
    • 卸下以下四个将电源固定在后壳上的螺钉(尺寸为T8或T10,取决于具体型号)。

    • 两个23.7毫米的Torx螺丝

    • 两个7.3毫米的Torx螺丝

  36. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 37 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 37 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 37 中的图像 3,3
    • 切勿尝试将电源与背壳移除,它仍有两条线缆与逻辑板相连。

    • 先将电源向背壳的左边移动,然后再向上使其从逻辑板的插槽中取出。

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 回复

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - 回复

  37. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 38 中的图像 1,2 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 38 中的图像 2,2
    • 压下直流电源线连接器上的标签,然后将其从逻辑板背面的插座中直接拉出。

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - 回复

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - 回复

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - 回复

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 回复

    I'm struggling with this step. I presume that the tab to which you are referring is behind the connector. I can see a plastic protrusion there but it does not move when I push it. Just to get my finger behind it requires the power board to be moved quite a bit btw.

    Dave Sands - 回复

    Pressing on the release on the back with my finger and at the same time using a needle nose pliers to wiggle the connector with my other hand worked for me.

    Kimbo M - 回复

    i could not get it out by the force of my fingers, so what i did was slightly turn the imac 90 degrees so i could reach the area better, push up (so, vertically) the power control board, push in the tab on the bottom of the connector with my right hand, and slightly wiggle the connector out of its socket with a plier

    Boris - 回复

    removing the chin strap (the front bit of metal running along the bottom of where the screen was) makes this much easier as you can rotate the board and get to the underside

    flow in - 回复

    Left index finger pushing on the tab from behind the connector, using needle pliers in right hand to rock up & down did the trick thanks @starfleet_tone

    Frédérick Charette - 回复

    Just be careful! I’ve seen two systems where the socket was pulled fully off! So the logic board then needs repairs or replacing being just a bit too aggressive!

    Dan -

    Needle nose and wiggling worked for us too. We were stuggling like heck with it when just using hands!

    Mike Manasewitsch - 回复

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first - more space to angle the board upwards. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 回复

    I did as Andrew Gough did, per other videos reviewed. Removed it right away. Just makes things easier, more space for just a few screws :)

    Mike Rehbein - 回复

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - 回复

    The tab is a pain in the a$$$ to get your finger in there. I was so horrified at the size of the capacitors that I put on gloves to reduce any amount of shock :-) . To get it loose I would pull out carefully the power board as far as I could than I wedge my index finger under and press the tab and slowly pull until I saw a slight gap between the end of the socket and the plug. I than place the flat part of the black spudger or blue one into the gap and use as it as a wedge to help move the plug forward as I kept the tab pressed.

    Andrew Phillips - 回复

  38. iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 39 中的图像 1,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 39 中的图像 2,3 iMac 因特尔 27" EMC 2546 电源更换: 步骤 39 中的图像 3,3
    • 小心 切勿触摸电源上的任何电容、导线以及暴露的触点。 只可抓取电源的边缘部分。

    • 将电源板顶部向您,就像打开邮箱一样来找到交流电源电缆连接器。

    • 将交流电线缆与插座断开。

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - 回复

    There is a small release tab on the cable.

    Eric - 回复

    Wear gloves when doing this to reduce any shock. The size of those capacitors are very unnerving and scary. Also those solder joints.

    Andrew Phillips - 回复

结论

要重新组装你的设备,请按照这些说明逆向操作,并使用我们的胶条指南来重新安装显示玻璃。

把你的电子垃圾送到R2或e-Stewards认证的回收商那里。

维修没有按计划进行?尝试一些基本的故障排除,或向我们的问答社区寻求帮助。

54等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

en zh

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9条评论

Hi, great in instructions.. I've had the power supply out for inspection...all looks good. I have NO LED's at all, Is there a way to test the power supply..?

richarddeath - 回复

Hi, great instructions thx, I've had the power supply out for inspection all LOOKS good, I have NO LED's at all, is there a way to test the PSU before I order one ans also how would I test the on / off switch just in case.? thx for ANY help

richarddeath - 回复

Why isn't there a power supply replacement part for this repair? Need a PSU for this exact machine. Is it because they used the same PSU for a few different years?

KramekWhalenSystems - 回复

Hey Kramek did you find your power supply, I'm looking for the exact same part? Any ideas where I can find one?

victor francis -

This just ended my love affair with Apple. This is the second PSU fault on 2 machines over a 5 year period and in both cases, the machines have (or, in this case, will have to) return to Apple for repair. I'm thankful that Linux has finally reached the point where I can use it daily without having to worry too much. I have a fairly heavy investment in Apple software but that's just going to have to wait until the company makes user-serviceable machines again... right now, Hackintosh looks the way to go for that. I can't abide having a machine that I can't reasonably service with commonly available parts.

Marc Draco - 回复

Better not hold your breath on that.

Danielle Berges -

Where to buy the PSU ???

wimmer.andre - 回复

Excellent instructions and comment from Anthony Zimmerman. I replaced the power supply and so far so good. I bought the power supply from iFixit - $129 for a refurbished one.

Jeremy Stuart - 回复

This, for this great instruction. It worked perfectly. BTW the screen is quiet heavy.

Thanks,

Ed Zuidinga - 回复

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