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简介
Replacing the display data cable also replaces the microphone.
你所需要的
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Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
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Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.
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Push the wire clasp away from the AirPort card and toward the display, then rotate up to free it from the RAM shield.
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Hold the AirPort card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.
Very well explained. Thank you. I had some donated memory cards and had to try twice before success. I found that I did not have to remove the antenna from the airport express and I did not have to remove the keyboard plug from the processor. Enough room to remove and replace memory card with it in.
Jay Speaks - 回复
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Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.
very gently magnetizing my small philips screwdriver was a HUGE help when putting all the tiny screws back into place... all said and done, there will be a lot of teeny screws to be taken out and put back. To magnetize the screwdriver, I just rubbed it several times in one direction (similar to sharpening a knife) across a strong refrigerator magnet... you only want it just strong enough to hold a screw, but not so magnetized that it corrupts your new hard drive!
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Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
I agree with tangawk: with a flathead screwdriver it was a lot easier. One have just to go deeper enough under the tab to be effective. Just be careful: the tab could jump far.
chmilblick - 回复
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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.
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Remove the three Torx screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
These 3 screws actually use 2mm Allen (hex) heads, so try to find one of those first (they come in many metric Allen sets) before resorting to the T8 Torx.
If you save your IKEA wrenches from their steel cable "curtain rods," you will have a 2mm hex wrench or two to spare; the 2mm wrenches are used to tighten the pair of set-screws holding each end of the cable into the wall-mounting.
The three sets of metric allen wrenches I'd accumulated over the years did NOT contain that itty-bitty 2mm wrench, and I didn't want to try forcing a torx-fit.
However, when I finally thought to check, I DID have a 2mm hex "screwdriver tip" in a large "universal set" of odd magnetic screwdriver tips--one with things like hollow-pointed torx, hollow-pointed hex, pin tips (imagine a flat-bladed tip with the middle 1/3 removed)--those so-called "tamper-resistant" screw heads (no triangle points, though, for all the kids' toys made in China).
And why hadn't I thought to look in the screw driver set first thing? Because the hex 2mm was a WRENCH, not a screw with a hexagonal driver tip. Talk about limits imposed by "context" or "framing"--and age.
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Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
I need patience and I need it NOW!!!!
chrisbulle - 回复
I killed my spudger on this step, trying to twist it in the seam to lift the cover up. I got better progress using it to pry out the gey band, surrounding the laptop. That action will release the catch grooves. Still a test of patience...good luck.
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Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
I used a flathead screwdriver and an old credit card instead of a spudger. If using the screwdriver, be advised it may damage the case.
Wish I'd read the tip about the credit card! Made a few dents during this procedure as I didn't have a spudger. N.B. Plastic modeling tools are not suitable for this job!
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There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
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Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and away from you until the back tabs pop free.
Step 20.5: Have coffee and give yourself a pat on the back...
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Remove the 4 Phillips screws from the bottom shield.
on mine, there are six small extra screws to remove.
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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the DC-In board.
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Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.
I found that I could leave the cable attached if I was just careful with where I placed it when I turned the computer over.
horntaxnow - 回复
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Remove the two Phillips screws from the battery compartment.
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Turn over the computer and open it.
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Pry up the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.
Probably a good idea to follow the advice about protecting the logic board with foam. I used bubble wrap on this step, but it probably didn't provide enough padding. When I reassembled everything and booted up (successfully!) the screen had a strong bluish tint. Can't seem to get rid of it now. Oops.
Otherwise, many thanks to ifixit and all y'alls for the helpful comments.
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Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.
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Three 2 mm Phillips along the right edge.
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One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.
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One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner.
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Two 6 mm Phillips with large heads, one in the upper left corner and one in the middle
I am happy to announce that my iBook gets its 2nd life with the newly implanted hard drive. The screw marked with the yellow circle was worn out. I ordered a set of "Screw Extracting Pliers" (small) from iFixit in the hope of remedying the problem. Initially, the pliers do not have enough space to work on it because the screw sits in a narrow plastic basin. I file some of the surrounding plastic away to make room. Finally, the pliers "bites" the screw out. Yes!
The screw is put back when the iBook is assembled.
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Lift the upper case from the right side and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different from the one pictured.
When replacing the upper case, after you've installed your new hard drive, make sure you remember to RECONNECT the trackpad connector. I forgot to connect it when I put the computer back together, and had to take it apart a 2nd time in order to fix my mistake. Other than that I had no problems with this upgrade thanks to the detailed instructions offered here . Thanks iFixit.com!
You can see photos of my upgrade process here if you are interested: http://www.flickr.com/photos/judahs/sets...
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Carefully lift the upper case about half of an inch and move it so that you can access the power and speaker cables.
Neither of these pesky & fragile connectors need to be removed…leave then connected! All you need to do, is to unscrew both speakers, carefully peel their wires off the housing, and—finally—make one cut with scissors or a sharp craft-knife through the upper left aluminum shield, closest to the plug…the board will slip around the second plug without any modification…Voila! No chance of harming the plugs, and the cut is very short & may be covered with tape. I have done this on two( 2 ) of these G4’s, a 12” and a 14”, and it works like a Charm…just be careful with the speaker wires, and you’ll never have to worry about ruining a G4 again…True Story!
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Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.
just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&
来自 chickenbrothel 的话:
just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&
It helps to use two small tools here: A dental pick (or similar) to hold down the socket (keeps it from separating from the logic board) and a small flathead screwdriver. With your off hand, use the pick to make sure the socket stays put; with your good hand, use the screwdriver. DON'T pry; instead, TWIST the head of the screwdriver to gently coax the connector out of the socket.
First I released the plastic top. Then I removed the touch pad connector. With that, I was able to shift the top case down a inch so the power connector was exposed. I pressed a small screw driver along the middle on the long side of the power connector and twisted back and forth so it would wedge the connector from the socket. I left the speaker(long wires) wires connected and just flipped the case off to the left.
You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.
Wished I had read the comment BEFORE trying to pull that stupid connector out. Here is my take away: If you have an iBook 1.33 - DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE CONNECTOR! It's impossible not to break the socket off the logic board. The connector is so firmly in the socket that you can't pull it out.
If you broke it, there is the possibility to solder it, but it's very tricky. But maybe the only chance of saving your machine. Do some google search, there are people who've done it.
来自 jackshim 的话:
Tweezers were also helpful here.
I used forceps. Quick and easy.
Desert Fox - 回复
来自 QEII Student IT 的话:
You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.
Thank you very much!! Great tip, worked great,it cuts down the risk of logic board repair. I agree with the suggestion of tweezers, long thin tips help to maneuver in tight areas and are great for removing the tape holding the wires to the plastic upper case.
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Remove the following 15 screws:
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Fourteen 3 mm Phillips.
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One 5.5 mm Phillips in the upper left corner.
This is very confusing. Next time I'm going to mark the spots where the little screws go with red sharpie.
chrisbulle - 回复
screws to my left in front of pc
It says mind the magnet position so how do I put the magnet do I just put it like the image has it??!??!?
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Turn the computer over.
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Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board and deroute it from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.
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Turn the computer back over.
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Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.
How much does it affect the computer if you accidentally pull out the whole thing?
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Support the display with one hand and remove the single Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).
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When remounting, mind that cables pass under the hinge, not over
Note the wifi cable, it goes under the optical drive then comes back up next to it. You have to unscrew the back left for the wifi plug to fit through the crack.
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Use a 1.5mm hex screwdriver to remove the two hex screws on either side of the display (four screws total).
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Lift the rear bezel off the display.
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Lift the thin steel LCD cover off the LCD.
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Remove the second of the two Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.
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Pull the clutch cover away from the front of the display.
To reinstall the two covers, hold one with tweezers, push clutch cover up. Tilt it and do the other side.
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Remove the two pieces of tape over the display data/microphone cables near the lower edge of the display.
Check the microphone cable where it enters the display. The outer layer is often cracked and this causes the microphone to short out. Wrap a single layer of the yellow tape around the area where it touches the screen metal frame.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
3等其他人完成本指南。
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一条评论
I got all the way to step 45, before the guide mentions a 1.5mm hex wrench is needed. I wish it mentioned that on the list of tools required before I did all that work. To help others, I tried to add the tool to the list, but it was denied for some reason.