简介
参考本指南以更换三星盖乐世S6的子板。该子板集成了听筒插座,LED软按键以及USB充电端口。如果你的手机遇到充电问题,或者是出现Aux端口不工作的情况,可以先尝试更换子板来解决问题。
本指南涉及到拆卸后部玻璃面板。拆卸后部玻璃面板需要去除将其固定的粘合剂。参考 本指南以重新安装后部玻璃面板。
你所需要的
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将iOpener放在微波炉中央 。
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).
ian cheong - 回复
Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener
The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.
The iOpener did not work at all for me.
I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.
The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.
I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.
My experience pt2
Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.
Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.
I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).
If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.
Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?
Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …
I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.
The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.
No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.
nin10doh -
#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######
Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…
I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.
I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.
I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?
WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK
The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.
Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.
I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)
iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.
To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.
A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.
Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.
Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.
For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.
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加热iOpener三十秒
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在整个维修过程中,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I agree with this.
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.
Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you
Collins -
Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.
I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!
iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.
Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit
Bonjour,
Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.
I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.
Get a heat gun.
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.
I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…
It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.
You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.
Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming
Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.
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把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个以避免碰到中心热的部分。
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.
I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.
If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.Jarl Friis - 回复
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在锅或平底锅里装满足够的水来完全淹没iOpener。
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把水加热到沸腾。关火。
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将iOpener放入热水中2-3分钟。确保iOpener完全浸入水中。
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用钳子从热水中提取加热的iOpener。
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用毛巾彻底擦干iOpener。
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你的iOpener已准备好使用!如果你需要重新加热iOpener,请将水加热到沸点,关火,并将iOpener放入水中2-3分钟。
What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?
Use a hair dryer
2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.
When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.
Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.
2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.
I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.
Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?
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Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.
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将iOpener放置在手机后盖上2分钟左右,以软化后盖的上的胶水。
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你可能需要使用 iOpener 多次以达到足够的温度。 请按照 iOpener 的说明操作以避免过度加热。
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移动iOpener以加热后壳的剩余部分,同样大约需要两分钟
the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure
After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.
haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)
Michael -
I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.
I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!
I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .
To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!
I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.
Sam Turner - 回复
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一旦后玻璃摸起来很热,在玻璃底部边缘附近放置一个吸盘。
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拉起吸盘玻璃将会出现小缝,将撬片插入缝隙中。
If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.
I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.
dougpender - 回复
Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!
I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.
In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.
Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.
Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.
Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.
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使用撬片划开手机底部的胶。
Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.
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重复加热并划开胶直到剩下三个边也分离
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请不要拔出撬片,以免后盖再次粘合
At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel
I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.
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使用撬片将剩下的胶划开
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卸下后盖
The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.
Greg Scott - 回复
This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray
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使用鑷子將所有剩餘於機身的膠撕掉
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使用濃度90%以上之異丙醇配合無絨布擦拭清潔粘合區域。僅需向一個方向輕掃,不用來回擦。此步驟可以幫助新背蓋與手機更好的粘合。
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把新的背蓋後面的塑膠片分離(不要太快,以免新膠隨塑膠片分離)。將背蓋的一個邊緣與手機機身對齊,並將背蓋牢牢地按在手機上。
When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.
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卸下13个3.5毫米用来将中框固定在手机上的Phillips #00螺丝。
Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.
Some of the female threads are soft plastic and will strip out easily (especially those near the bottom). I was pressing down too hard when removing these screws, and several of them stripped out. The frame still screwed together, but I couldn’t get them very tight.
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紧紧地抓住中框组件的边缘。
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向下推电池的同时抬起中框组件,以将其与手机的剩余部分分开。
FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick
%#*@ coulda told me sooner
i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port
When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.
Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port
On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ
Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.
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抬起中框将其与手机的剩余部分分离。
Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!
TheECanyon - 回复
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在外壳和电池之间插入塑料撬片。
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将塑料撬片进一步推入以将电池与手机分开。
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如果电池被太牢固地粘住,无法将塑料片插入,请将加热的iOpener放在电池上来松开粘合剂。
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另外,在电池的每一个角落都涂上一些异丙醇,让它们作用几分钟,以溶解粘合剂。
I used a trick from a different phone tear down, but it really helps, slip a length of dental floss under the top edge of the battery, then with a back and forth action of the floss, you can slice through the adhesive and easily remove the battery, worked great on this phone.
Dude that's awesome, wish someone would have mentioned this a long time ago. Battery removal can be a pain. Defiantly going to try that sometime soon!
Best tip ever!
vbgagnon -
Awesome. Thanks!!!
For me, the battery removal was probably as difficult. maybe more so than removing the back or mid-frame. The adhesive on the left side woudn’t let go and the plastic pick couldn’t reach the left-side adhesive to release it. I finally got it through perseverance though.
I heated the battery area for two minutes. Pried slowly with a plastic pic on the outside edge and around the top. Got the center top corner up slightly and used the dental floss trick. Worked well!
IFixit makes a tool about 5 inches long with a black plastic handle and a flat metal blade that is great for this. It’s a perfect prying tool. It’s about 4 inches of thicker plastic handle and 1 inch of steel blade. I would think if it was a sharp blade, it would be ideal for slicing through this type of adhesive. Like the dental floss idea also. Will try that on the next one.
Rex Burrus - 回复
The steel blade tool is also great for removing the battery adhesive and back adhesive. Use like a dull chisel scraping up small chunks until done.
Rex Burrus - 回复
Hi Rex,
I think the tool you are thinking of is the Jimmy! It is indeed a versatile tool for many opening purposes. However, we do not recommend it for battery removal, as the dull metal blade can still slice through the battery pouch.
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把电池从手机中取出
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从手机中去掉任何残留的粘合剂,并使用异丙醇和无绒布擦拭粘合区域。
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用预切割粘合剂或双面胶带固定新电池。为了正确地定位,将新的粘合剂安放在电话中,而不是粘到电池上。粘合剂应该围绕电池隔层的旁边,而不是在中心的矩形切口(实际上是显示屏的背面)。
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将电池牢牢地按住5-10秒。
Yes the UK version is very well glued in. I recommend using a flat metal spudger and pushing it in from the bottom right side and then continue doing the same working up. This method seems to be the safest and only takes a minute or two
There is a significant chance that you may have damaged the battery during the removal process, which can result in an internal short and fire hazard in the future. We strongly advise not to re-use the battery once you have removed it.
It is ok if you flatten the battery if it is bent
Yanny 57 -
Note that the power button won’t work until the screws are tightened back into the midframe. I tried to turn it on before inserting the screws to the midframe and was worried that I broke something when it wouldn’t turn on. Tightening the screws fixed the issue.
Also, attaching the battery cable before placing the battery on the new adhesive makes sure that it is in the correct position.
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使用撬棒的尖端从主板的插座上断开蓝牙和Wi-Fi天线的线缆连接器。
This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.
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将撬片以向上的角度插入手机电池侧边缘,框架和显示屏之间。
in my own opinion, a better/easier method is to actually remove the battery after disconnecting all of the connections from the daughter/logic board, and if you slide a pick inbetween the plastic to where its visible where the battery originally was, you’re doing it correctly. if you can see it through the glass screen as if you were looking at your phone, you’re going between the LCD/Digitizer Assembly, and the Protective Glass Screen Overlay. If you’re removing the LCD/Digitizer/Glass Screen as a Whole, being able to see the pick through the battery compartment is a great, and easy way to know youre okay. This is a Great repair guide, but Repairs Universe on YT did an extremely thorough job on walking me through the replacement procedure and LCD&Digitzer removal.
Hi Josh,
I agree that having that visual cue is a very handy option. If you are also replacing the battery, this is a great option!
We opted not to suggest battery removal because of safety reasons. We recommend against re-installing used batteries. Any prying action or bend could have compromised the battery even if you can’t see it, and cause problems in the long term.
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使用撬片轻轻撬开框架的电池侧边,远离AMOLED屏幕。
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如果显示器和框架不容易分离,使用撬片切割所有剩余胶粘剂。如果切割困难,重新加热并重新应用iOpener。
This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.
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从框架上除去所有痕量的胶水和玻璃后,用90%(或更高)异丙醇和无绒布或咖啡过滤器清洁粘合区域。只于一个方向上滑动,不要来回移动。
C'etait extrêmement difficile pour ma part.
It was extremely difficult for me.
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插入撬棒的尖端至靠近右侧软按键LED线缆一侧的沟槽内。
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轻轻地从显示框架上撬起LED线缆。
I was transferring the daughterboard to a different frame. Flipped up the led cables and realized that the LEDs remained in the recessed area on the old frame. I thought these LEDs would peel off as a unit with the cables. It did not. Is this normal?
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请按逆序重装你的设备。若要重新组装后部玻璃面板,参考重新安装后部玻璃面板粘合剂指南。
请按逆序重装你的设备。若要重新组装后部玻璃面板,参考重新安装后部玻璃面板粘合剂指南。
93等其他人完成本指南。
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31条评论
Step 41
I could not find any led cables... after the repair the led soft keys work and vibrate but do not light up... anyway to fix this problem? Fixing g925a
It seems like you've damaged the Flex oder the Button itself. If youve allready checked the connection to Motherboard, then you need to replace the Daughterboard to solve the issue
Patrick -
For step 41
I could not find and led cables to remove... and after there repair the led light forsaken the soft keys do not light up but they do work and vibrate... what should I do?
Hello, I replaced the "daughter board" thinking it would fix my microphone issue but it did not. I tried restoring the phone and still nothing. I have no water damage. Does anyone have any suggestions? Please help.
Often times you can fix mic. issues by turning off noise cancellation in the settings. Especially if you sound like you are in a tunnel or there is a lot of echo.
It could be incompatible. There are about 10 different charging ports made for this Galaxy s6 and its variations. If the wrong one from the wrong network is put in sometimes cables don't reach and additional problems due to a mismatch may occur.
The void spaces in the device's frame allow the correct board and board components to fit. Correctly matched parts allow the mother/daughter board to fit flat (as designed) and go back together once you are done replacing parts. If a mic does not match up to it's hole through the frame, you might block sound. Look at the frame to the right of the charging port while the screen is face up. If that hole is clogged it should be cleaned. If the sound quality improves, than I would probably consider opening it up to clean the inside of the frame and the mic.
One more thing. A microphone actually. With your phone's back side down, viewing from the top, there is a microphone hole just to the left of the infrared blaster. I do believe this one is attached to the motherboard.
Doing it this way is terrible, and for the most part worthless, unless the screen is already damaged.
The only safe way to replace the charging port is to desolder it and resolder a new one on. Otherwise...
What? I bought a board for £6 on eBay and fitted no issue. Have you soldered a plug on? Good luck!
derek -
I have carried out the repair and the phone is now chargeing shown by the led's at the top of the screen however the LCD is not powering on and the phone does not vibrate when I hold down the button any help would be appreciated
Same problem, my screen wont come on! :(
I have a problem where when i connect the charger to my phone (Samsung galaxy s6) and it does not charge my phone, I don't think my charger or my cable have problem because I had try to connect to other gadget and its charging, my question is ,is it my phone has a problem at charging daughter board or the problem is at the other place like maybe I should change the charger or somethg.
If charging port not working then you can get an induction charger and charge it wirelessly. This has worked for my son's phone with no problems.
I just started having this problem as well. A newly purchased induction charger is also not charging the battery. The Qi pad seems to detect that the phone is placed on top, but the phone does not register any charge. Also, the USB charge cable sometimes is detected for a few seconds and charge is briefly indicated, then the phone no longer recognizes the cable or the charger.
Well, when removing the display assembly, it turned out I first removed only the glass, and after attempting to remove the LCD, I broke it. Word of caution - the LCD is very fragile - it breaks even with a very light bend.
but what if it breaks it
what if it breaks the phone?
Unless your very lucky, you will break your screen if you do this that way. Do this only if you replace your screen too!
My phone is not charging but overheating is this the problem with the daugther board??
Marko Shen - 回复
CAUTION: Don’t do this repair unless you really can’t use the phone. Removing the display to replace the charger port is tantamount to madness . The display very likely to get damaged. I did this all very carefully and came out with half a dead digitizer (touch screen) . You can easily destroy the display, and the LED sensor backlights are delicate to place. You’ll need to buy a new front glue film stencil because you aren’t replacing with a new screen. I would much rather have lived with the charging problem than with a dead screen. A huge problem with the above method is guaranteeing you are separating the right layer - When I inserted the pick at the first point, it came through underneath the black insulation film stuck to the screen. https://youtu.be/Ghh_CQnh_yk tells you how to avoid this. Many other videos such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnQFtcTj... show you can try re-soldering the USB port without messing with the screen.
Also, since every s6 repair starts with “remove the back glass” it should be much more widely stated: Removing the back glass will damage it! At the very least, your entry point is likely to chip some paint off near the edge. Sliding even a thin plastic wedge will do this. The paint separates easily from the glass - either due to aging or the heat you just applied! Unless you have the right heating equipment with temp control and know exactly what you are doing - and even then I doubt it will be perfect. The videos don’t show up the small chips. You could live with the damage, if its minor, but your phone won’t be perfect . In my case the pain came off in great sheets, so I scraped it all off and had a transparent back! Just take the hit and get a new back glass and glue stencil along with your replacement parts. Same applies to the paint on the edges of the front (LCD) panel - and there the solution of getting a new one is not an option (unless its broken).
I carried out the repair successfully partially following this guide. I am an experienced technician and have carried out several similar repairs. I have damaged the screen only on one occasion. I usually do not remove the lcd completely but only de-glue/separate the bottom part of the screen from the frame to make enough room to remove the daughterboard flexes (soft buttons). A safer way to separate the screen is use a thin laminated playing card and insert it gently, after applying heat, in between the frame and LCD assembly from the back of the LCD instead of using a pick.
Does this guide also work with Galaxy s6+ edge?
Since replacing a daughter board on a s6 I no longer pick up signal on the phone. Any ideas how I can resolve this ?
thanks
Blue dot of death, after following instructions. Am I screwed?
Thanks
So I followed this procedure, tore the foil on the back of the screen as I was removing it. Not sure if that’s an issue, but after reassembly, the phone will not turn on. The screen is black occasionally flickering like it’s trying to come on, and the blue LED is on constant. None of the buttons work, even to try to force it to shut down. The only way to get the LED to turn off and the screen to stop flickering is to unplug the battery. I replaced the battery and the daughterboard. Haven’t applied any new adhesive yet, so I can still easily disassemble the phone. Any advice?
Samsung are evil for creating the phone like this. Having to remove the screen to replace the charging port is just a bad design choice. Luckily they sorted it out later on and now the charging port on later Samsung phones comes out on its own. The screen will almost certainly be damaged or even destroyed during this repair.
It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.
David White - 回复
Done. Thanks for the tip!
Minor editor -